TRANSMISSION

[BIGBADREDRIG]

Question have a 78 wt cherokee 360 / th400 transfers case?? Going to put up in garage and work on it maybe 6 month project. Would like to swap transfer case to a case that is not depended on the chain to run rear and front. If it can be done what needs to happen? Also if I was to lose say my rear drive line how can I lock the transfer case so I can get home on two wheels? can the vaccum lock help??

[Crazy_Jeepman]

You will have the Borg & Warner 1339 Quadra Trac T-case. You will need to swap out the tailshaft of your transmission to acommadate any other type of t-case. With the axles you have the Dana 20 Gear driven case or the Dana 300 are a couple choices. ;)

[ March 02, 2002: Message edited by: Crazy_Jeepman ]</p>

[River Beast]

Pete's right on the money....as usual ;)

I am in the process of swapping a TH400 chevy 2WD tailshaft to my TH400 (QT 10-spline shaft) so I can mate my dana 20 to it....

The QT has a E-drive switch in the glove box.... what this does is lock the two shaft together for a 100% 4WD.... DO NOT DO THIS ON PAVEMENT&gt;..... unless you remove one of the shafts.

I have my QT in E-drive right now with no front shaft.... over a year now.... no worries.

The E-drive MUST be locked in with one shaft removed... otherwise.. all power will be transferred to the shaftless side of the QT leaving you with no motion and a tore up QT unit...

[BIGBADREDRIG]

WHEN YOU GUYS SAY CHANGE REAR SHAFT OF TRANNY DO YOU MEAN TO TEAR TRANNY COMPLETE APART OR CAN YOU JUST REMOVE THE BACK END OF THE TRANNY IF MEMORY RECALLS IT SEEMS THAT THERE IS A REAR PART TO THE TRANNY JUST BEFORE THE T-CASE??

[Crazy_Jeepman]

It will need to be completely dissassembled, to swap the shaft. ;)

[River Beast]

again... Pete is right :D

[jeepbob]

The rear part you are thinking about is the adapter for the t/case. Pet is correct the tranny must be completely dissambled as the output shaft is one of the first parts put in the case.

[porkchop]

I just have to add that Pete is right :D

I have done this and it is not to hard at all. And while you are in there you can rebuild the tranny.

[gsmikie]

i agree with porkchop its a piece of cake

[BIGBADREDRIG]

OK NEED TO TAKE TRANNY APART NEVER DID ONE BUT FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING.?? REBUILD TRANNY GOOD IDEA!! NEXT QUESTION WHERE DO I FIND TAIL SHAFT AFTER MARKET OR OF SOMETHING ELSE???

[Mikel2]

What's wrong with the QT? If well maintained, they will last a looong time. The QT is a great, but misanderstood TC. I wish I still had one in my jeep :(

[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: Mikel2 ]</p>

[River Beast]

Chevy 2WD short shaft TH400 is what I got for the Dana 20 and its a match!!!!

[Panther]

Would this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1809679117

[porkchop]

Yes that t-case will work. It even has the bonus adapter for it. All you will need is the chevy short shaft.

When I did the swap I just have to say the gsmikie did the majority of the work. I just kinda of sat by and watched in aw :D . But from what I saw it was a snap.

[Hump]

AAAhhhhhh!!! You guys shouldn't have shown that to me!!! Now I want to buy it!!! I thought about selling some of my spare parts that don't match anything that I currently have, but I learned a long time ago that when you sell stuff you will just end up wishing that you didn't. Crap! :(

[BIGBADREDRIG]

Ok good ideas final question? or story one moment ---Had jeep up on big hills outside coalinga (forgot name of place) maybe los gatos??
lost front drive shaft broke u-joint. turned e-switch glove box, figure limp back to road two wheel drive and replace u-joint switch no work. Had to replace u-joint on dust, rocks, dirt, and everything else you can think of.

So as there a way to make that switch machanical so I do not have to rely on vaccum. Does that involve taering t-case apart?? Theres nothing wrong with the t-case just hate to be stuck in front of all your friends. With theres a way to make the switch machanical I won't bother tearing into the tranny or having to buy a t-case.

By the way when I got home and tryed the vaccum switch at home in my drive way it worked perfectly it hopped and pulled? took out of e-drive as soon as i found out it was working. tryed few more times on dirt sometimes work sometimes not. Need more reliable equiptment.

[Bob Barry]

I replaced the rotted original vacuum lines with about $12 worth of hard-line from the auto-parts store, and made sure the rubber vacuum hoses were in good shape. Now that I actually hooked up the e-drive light, I can see when in is positively engaged (which is all the time that I am off-road, except for real-tight turns on rocks). I'd see if you can fix what you've got for cheap, before investing in major mods or upgrades.

[porkchop]

I converted my old QT to mechanical switch. Here is how I did it (this is taking from a earlier post I wrote back in June of last year):

This is my setup: First I took my vacum diaphragm and use the angle grinder to split the round end in two halfs and then you just knock the remainder off the two pieces. I then took a bolt of the same size and cut the head off and then welded it to the inner piece of the old diaphragm to lengthen it. I went to the store and bought a locking clip for $.20 slid the out side piece back in the hole and secured it with the clip. I then reassemblied the e-drive setup. One thing to remember is make sure you put the longer side of the shift fork aft or you won't have enough throw to take it out of e-drive.
After that was together, I took an old piece of metal and bent two 90 degree angles in it sorta like and "S". I bolted this to the extended piece. This is where the cable will hook up.

I bought a locking "T" handle cable at Napa for $26 and took out the old vacum switch from my tranny hump (this is where I located it after the big change over). Since the hole was much larger than the cable, I used the piece of the diaphraam that I cut off. Drilled a hole in the middle of it for the cable and then screwed it to the tranny hump. worked great. once the cable was routed I slipped a piece of rubber fuel line over the cable and then ran it up to the point right before the new setup. this is where I took the tag that was on the t-case, bent it and then secured the cable to it with a hose clamp. the rubber prevents the cable from sliding all over and holds the outside of the cable in place while the inside still moves. This is hard to picture, so you might want to wait for the pics .

I then used two cable stops, like on the carb for the throttle, on both sides of the "S" on the extended piece, adjusted it and it works like a champ!

I have a hard time typing things so people can understand, but I hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions if needed.

I am no longer running this case. So I can not tell you the long term effects of how it worked. But it did work great for the short time I had it. Not bad for a quick ghetto fix :D . I know this can be improved on but this is just what I did. I sold it to dfitz and then he sold it to someone else, don't know who. You can also get ahold of mark (above the law) he did it a different more complexed way that looks great!