M715 Springs and Shocks on an 86 G-Wag-Update! Plan B!

[BIG BAD JON]

My friend, HeathM715, has a few parts M715's, and I was wondering if a set of springs and shocks off of one would give me a couple inches of lift? Or atleast fit? They look the same length, but his is thicker, has more leafs, and has more curve.

If it will fit, how much should I offer him for the springs and shocks? :confused:

[ September 28, 2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: BIG BAD JON ]

[Stuka]

I dont see the fronts or the rears fitting without mods...you need to measure eye to eye on the M715 springs then the width. To see if they will even fit.

You gota realize that they are 1.25 ton springs..and your jeep is gona ride like it has no suspension at all for the most part.

[BIG BAD JON]

hmm...maybe I could take a leaf out?

[FSJeeper]

Only the front ones will fit your Wagoneer. The rears will fit the post type rear spring mounts on earlier FSJ's. You will get about 3" to 4" of lift. You will also get the worst ride you can ever imagine. M715 guys take 2 leaves out to soften it and that might help, but forget having any flex.

[RustyJeep]

The springs one the M715's are made for post mounts, so the bushings will be different in the eyes. Also, they may be different lengths...I am not sure, but probably.

[BIG BAD JON]

Also, his truck weighs less than 1000lbs more than mine. Remember, Ive got that S10 to drive every day now...Plus, I think with some heavy bumpers, that will weigh mine down a bit.

[tomd]

haha, maybe try using just the main leaf and 1 or 2 others, wagoneers sag because their springs are sooo soft from the factory and they are only for like probably 1/4 ton, and a m715 is a 1 1/4 ton HD truck, so i would guess it would be stiff no matter how heavy your bumpers are.

[BIG BAD JON]

Hmm...good idea! So, how much do you think I should give him for them? That is, if I can easily figure out how to mount them.

[Stuka]

74 wag not all wags sag..and they also sag because they always have a lot fo weight on the back. my chero is rated at 6800lbs GVWR...i assure you it isnt a 1/4 ton suspension...i can put 800 pounds in the back and it doesnt go down at all...the ride is a tad smoother and thats it.

[FSJeeper]

I think it would be a mistake to run the M715 springs, but if you must $25 each is the going rate around here.

[BIG BAD JON]

Okay, M715 springs idea scratched...What other cheap ways can I make atleast 35" tires fit under it?

Heres plan B: 3" body lift made out of hockey pucks, aluminum blocks, or blocks of some sort of plastic. Then cutting my fenders out a bit, and if that dont do it, Ill cut them all the way out, and put M715 style fender flares on. Oh, and dont worry about my back doors, I might weld them up since its no longer my daily driver. How does this sound? :confused:

[Stuka]

I would go with a 4" suspension, then a 3" body lift, then trim a little bit, rather then a lot.

Or go with a 6" suspension, and a 3" body and no triming should be needed.

But if you want a low center of gravity and still run bigger tires then go with a 4" suspension and lots of trimming. I would go with a suspension long before resulting to a body lift. I dislike the way body lifts make the body act.

So allll up to you smile.gif

[Joe J-Truck]

I'm all for the sawzall approach, or you can always do a SOA, and use RB's rear invert kit...
715 springs are super-stiff. I bought some to use with my m715 axle swap, but now I've decided against it because I want some flex. They're OK for a heavy troop carrier truck but no good for a trail jeep.
However you lift, it's best to keep the weight of the rig as low as possible IMO, less rollover potential. I think 6" lift and 3" body lift on a NT is a recipe for rolling.
I fit 35's by running a RC 3" kit, Modified desert steel CJ front shackles (all purchased from JC whitney) and performing some tasteful fender trimming. NT's will have to cut more than I did on my J10, but I think it will work.
My buddy here in town has a 3" body lift, stock springs and sawzalled fenders to clear 35's on an older NT chero. He swapped in a WT front axle (for better stability and less required hacking) and removed alot of metal from the rear. On the rear, he welded up the metal after he cut because the body got too floppy after he hacked all that material from the rear fenders.
A low voltage MIG with thin wire works OK for body sheetmetal, anything bigger just burns holes.
I'm envious of his rig's tight turning radius with the front WT, rear NT axle setup.

[BIG BAD JON]

Joe J-Truck- Sounds like a great idea!

Stuka- What kind of suspension lifts can I do to my G-Wag without doing SOA in the front? Im all for chopping out my fenders! I plan on running wide 35's so that it will behave like a stock height WT Cherokee. The last thing I want is it to roll, but just in case, Im going to put in a roll cage meant for a 2-door cherokee or a custom one.

[Tad]

Jon,
You have come a long way from when I first talked to you, congratulations. Remember one thing, none of us got to where we are that fast, sometimes years. You don't have to get 35's on there tomorrow, take it one step at a time. Your wag is looking very nice.

[BIG BAD JON]

Thanks Tad! Ya know, you dont post enough pictures for me to tell how YOURE progressin. The 35" tires and chopped out fenders are just a step. I still plan on putting bumpers, nerf bars, a roof rack, swingout tire carrier, and some skid plates, roll cage, light bar, bedliner, and paint on it. Dont worry, Ive got a very friendly welding teacher at my school too, and hes agreed to weld all of that up as long as I provide the metal and hardware. As for the paint and bedliner, Ive got a friend that is pretty skilled at that stuff. Grunt is far from done! :D

[Tad]

Originally posted by BIG BAD JON:
...Ya know, you dont post enough pictures for me to tell how YOURE progressin...LOL Jon, that's cause I spend 10 hrs a day M-F fixing and welding everbody elses projects, heck I don't even have a rack and we build the darn things.

[FSJeeper]

If you open your rear wheel wells all the way, and chop your front fenders like and M715, or better yet get M715 front fenders, I am pretty sure you need very little to no lift with 35's.
Keep in mind many 35's are really closer to 33".
If you do need lift, a 3" body lift would probably take care of it. Very cheap and easy to install.

If you are careful when chopping the rear doors, you can keep them functional including the windows.

I got about 8.5" of lift with the front SOA and 7" RB kit. Way too much for 38.5's. I am bringing mine down 4" with flat chevy front springs and mounting the rear front spring eye back to the stock location and building a springer type rear drop suspension for the rear of the spring. Then using the front RB spring mount for a trac bar.

If you look at my avatar, you will see how much rear fenderwell is left over with 39.5's with the suspension fully compressed. The 39.5's would slightly rub the rear flare so I went to 38.5's which fit perfect.

Here are some pics of the rear fenders chopped all the way out:

http://froadin.com/pascal/

[Stuka]

Jon: Rusty's makes a 4" and a 6" lift kit. Sky Jacker makes a 4" as well and is a nice kit.

As for tire sizes: it depends ont he brand. Cooper STT 35x12.50's measure 34.5" tall according to their site, which is very close to actual 35. But MT Claws are actually like 33" for a 35" rating. I know my 31x10.50 cooper STT's are actually 30.5" which is exactly what they say on their site.

[Sycho15]

Take polyurethane boat rollers and cut them to the desired body-lift height. They've already got the properly-size metal-sleeved hole in the center.

Redneck-rig away!