POR15 - Black - Satin Black 0r Other

[badaboom]

So when refinishing a chassis which would you prefer ?

POR15 BLACK (STD very shiny- GLOSS)

POR15 SATIN BLACK (More factory look)

or use some other product?

[Dirt Wag]

The shiny stuff is easy to clean and dirt won't stick to it. If you're building a show car the flat looks nicer IMO.

[1986 Woody]

Was happy with the satin.

[AlsChopShop]

satin. frames shouldn't be shiny.

Al

[tkiller13]

Im about to do the same thing on sunday. I have some por15 satin im hoping is still good. I bought it new about 5 years ago. Never opened it.

[mathman]

So when refinishing a chassis which would you prefer ?

POR15 BLACK (STD very shiny- GLOSS)

POR15 SATIN BLACK (More factory look)

or use some other product?

Some other product. Used POR 15 on my 1950's frame with their Chassis-coat black topcoat. They claim their topcoat is not UV sensitive like the POR-15 is - they forgot to mention the topcoat oxidizes quickly. It was so bad within a year I had to re-coat it with something else before I ever got the body back on the frame. Rattle can semi-gloss engine paint worked quite nicely over it and looks as good now as it did when I applied it 6 years ago. Only reason I still use POR for some applications is that I have a few cans leftover - and then I'll only use it when it's not visible or in a critical spot. Not sure what the next frame will be painted with but I can guarantee it will NOT be a POR product.

[Eugene 1]

I would go with satin

[Elliott]

Some other product. Used POR 15 on my 1950's frame with their Chassis-coat black topcoat. They claim their topcoat is not UV sensitive like the POR-15 is - they forgot to mention the topcoat oxidizes quickly. It was so bad within a year I had to re-coat it with something else before I ever got the body back on the frame. Rattle can semi-gloss engine paint worked quite nicely over it and looks as good now as it did when I applied it 6 years ago. Only reason I still use POR for some applications is that I have a few cans leftover - and then I'll only use it when it's not visible or in a critical spot. Not sure what the next frame will be painted with but I can guarantee it will NOT be a POR product.

I used solely... black POR 15 with nothing on it. I painted a 4 wheeler frame that sat exposed to the sun and elements on a saltwater beach for the five years I had it and it never discolored or deteriorated in any way whatsoever. I didn't mix anything with it and didn't topcoat it with anything either. I was happy with the only time I used it.

[crazydog]

I used Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black on my axles and fuel tank. Tough stuff and cleans real well. Never used the POR stuff, but when I need to do similar projects in the future, I will use the Eastwood stuff.

[mathman]

I used solely... black POR 15 with nothing on it. I painted a 4 wheeler frame that sat exposed to the sun and elements on a saltwater beach for the five years I had it and it never discolored or deteriorated in any way whatsoever. I didn't mix anything with it and didn't topcoat it with anything either. I was happy with the only time I used it.

The stuff I painted like that and the areas that were exposed to the sun turned a purplish black color after a couple of months. That didn't bother me as it was expected since they say it's UV sensitive. The topcoat oxidizing badly in less than a year is what really soured me on them - aside from the cost. The engine enamel in a rattle can I used on top of that has held up very well though.

[sappy76]

I've been using Zero Rust lately since it can be sprayed without worry. I did my J10 chassis 1 1/2 years ago and it's holding up well. I can't vouch for long term but I wasn't happy with POR. I would also consider Eastwood.

[2003 mcs]

I'm not too thrilled with my last couple of uses of POR15. I am going to use this http://www.masterseriesct.com/ CHASSIS COATING it is gloss black.

[Towtruck]

I just went through a few weeks of researching anti-rust products. It really depends on what you're trying to do.

Rust encapsulators: POR15 is one of several products in this category. It simply locks in the exisiting rust. Like anything else, a certain amount of surface prep is necessary or it's got a rep for peeling. But this grouping is attractive for a frame that's still on the truck. Other than price, I don't believe there's a hill of beans difference between products from various vendors (based only on what I've read).

Rust dissolvers: (Phosphoric acid or one of the alkaline equivalents) actually eat every spec of rust if they're left on the surface long enough. Unfortunately, a phosphoric acid/water solution also eats some of the good metal if left on long enough to remove deeply pitted rust. It also causes hydrogen embrittlement of the metal if left on too long. Generally nasty stuff. I'm using one of the non-acid products on the inside (never painted) rocker panels and voids on my Jaguar. The metal has to be immersed in the liquid or continuously wetted...I'm using a sump pump, spray, and catch basin arrangement. Unlike phosphoric acid, it won't take off old paint...only rust, which slowly disappears. It doesn't eat good metal, and it won't eat your garage floor like phosphoric acid. Anyway, if you want your starting point to be clean metal....the options are one of these products, or media blasting.

Rust converters: Ospho, and most of the "converter" sprays sold at autoparts stores are examples. They're a polymerized formulation with phosphric acid mixed in...sort of a plastic primer/acid mixture. They dissolve a thin layer of rust and turn it into a layer of iron oxide (black), which allows the primer element of the mixture to stick. An issue is that it works better on rusted surfaces than on clean metal. There are reports that the "primer" element eventually peels in areas where the metal was originally rust free (likely never a problem on an old Jeep). Anyway, these products are also a form of encapsulators in that they don't actually remove all the rust...just a thin layer....then they leave a "primer" surface...and then they have to be top coated. The attrative feature of converters is that they are less viscous than POR15 type paint, so they seep into nooks and crannies more easily. I experimented with Ospho and the autoparts store sprays and didn't like the outcome because the primer element dries before the acid portion gets very deeply into the rust layer. In any case, I'd use a tough epoxy paint over this stuff.

Rust preventative: Products like WD-40 and Boeshield do the best job of penetrating, but have a limited life on the surface. And ideally, the rust should be removed first. Waxoil or chassis wax is sort of a subset of this grouping...sprays on and leaves a fairly hard wax like residue that is supposedly semi permanent. None of these is a good choice for an open chassis, but they might be the cat's meow for sheet metal voids like on a Jag.

I'm doing a two step process....remove the rust with the non-acid dissolver...then either spraying on epoxy primer or something like Boeshield.

Anyway, if I was painting the frame on my pickup and it was rust free, I'd use epoxy primer and epoxy top coat. There are some very tough products used on boats that come to mind.

Sorry for the long post, but it's fresh on my mind at the moment.