ARRRRGH

[GaWd]

I am so done with this. I haven't been able to start my wag in over a week due to ignition trouble.

I've changed so far:

Coil
Points
Rotor
Resistor
Spark wires
Wiring


Still no spark! THe cap is in good condition, so I doubt it's the problem.

When the keyswitch is in the ON position, I have 12V to the + side of the coil. I haven't checked the START position, but I think it also has +12v.

The ground wire checks out good as well. I have chntinuity from the - side of the coil to the anchor point on the points. I get NO continuity to any other metal parts near the Dizzy, so I doubt it's grounding out.

Please help because I'm ready to call it quits and have the hook take it to the junkyard.

Sam

[RdHawg]

Just a dumb question - you don't by chance have a security system with a start disabler do you? don't laugh - I drove all the way across town one night to fix a friends car - flipped the kill switch and away he went.

This could also be a good time to convice the wife you need a new Hei set up smile.gif

[ March 28, 2002: Message edited by: RdHawg ]</p>

[GaWd]

LoL Rd, nope, no Security.

If I wasn't so unemployed, I'd spring for the HEI. Of course, I also don't know anything about the conversion, so it's also prevented me from doing the conversion.

Sam

[pdspeh]

this is dumb,,,,,,but,the battery? new?

[GaWd]

Battery is new, still cranks, but is slowly draining away. It's just over 12V right now(piggy-backed to another battery).

[Banks]

Sam,Just checking,what have you got the points set at? A matchpack is about the right gap.Set them first on a high spot on the distributor[where the points are open] then turn the engine[by hand]just till the points close...hook the coil wire to the coil and get the other end close to the engine block[1/2-3/4"]...take a pencil or plastic pen[non conductive], turn on the key, come around and open and close the points with the pencil/pen and watch the coil wire[you should see spark]do not touch the coil wire with the key on. If you don't have spark check shorted points/condenser wire. If you do have spark check the 12+ with the key in the "start" position.Good luck, Marc :cool:

[GaWd]

I set the points to .019 at what would be my best guess as a high point on the cam. A 350 is impossible to turn with a wrench, cause there's no pulley bolt exposed, and belts slip, ETC. I used the key to get it to move.

I'll try your method when I can get some help from friends.

I just checked my battery. It tests at 12.17V and 4.38A!![checked later this evening, piggy-backed with another battery and I'm up to over 17A] I figured that if it would turn over, there were enough amps to start...anyone think there's an amperage problem here?

I'll also have to run a wire from the solenoid to the coil, as there has apparently never been one on it. Maybe that would get it enough 'oomph' to start?

I'm still so frustrated.

Sam

[ March 29, 2002: Message edited by: GaWd ]</p>

[GaWd]

Ok, stupid question.

I did Banks' test, and when opening the points, I get no spark. If the points arm touches the non-moveable part of the points, I get a spark.

What does that mean? bad ground wire?

Stupid question #2 is how do you replace the ground wire?

Sam

[jeepbob]

Did you replace the condensor? If not do so. A shorted condensor will cause this problem. One more thing and I know it is very ovbious but it does get over looked even by pro's, does the dist shaft turn with the motor cranking over? One last thing to check would be side to side slop in the dizzy shaft which could cause the point cap to change. This would be worn dist bushings and require a new dizzy.

[Alaskaman]

What you describe would be either shorted condenser (unlikely), points set too wide, or a bad coil, new or not. If you get spark at the points, your wiring is probably okay...points are the last piece of the circuit. Make sure the points are set to .016-.018. Might help if you understand how the old 1920's thru 1970's system works, I apologise if I'm stating the obvious....for sake of argument assume current flow is from battery + terminal to - or ground. Current flow while coil is charging goes from battery + through ignition switch, through ballast resistor, through coil primary (+ terminal in, - terminal out), through closed points, to ground. (During start, ballast resistor is usually bypassed by a current path from the "extra" or 3rd terminal on the starter solenoid to coil + terminal to give full voltage for starting). Spark at the secondary of the coil happens when the points open, collapsing the field in the coil primary which induces a voltage in the secondary winding. Spark at the coil secondary should jump a quarter inch gap to ground easily. Or hurt like the dickens if you like to test things by sticking your finger in them :D HTH

[GaWd]

Well, my Chilton's guide says gap is .019, so that's where it stands.

I have a new condenser, but from what I've read, if the condenser is shot, you will get one spark, and that's it. I can get continuous sparks to jump.

When I do the spark test, I don't get spark with the points simply open, only if it hits something that's grounded, like the dizzy mech, or the gap adjuster. I will install a new condenser, and make sure all the surfaces are clean. Hoepfully this will fix the problem.

Sam

[GaWd]

P.S.- No lateral Dizzy slop.

[Ernzo]

don't forget the rotor. I did once. Drove me crazy. Still crazy today.

[JBurke]

Once had my rig not start for a week because one of the tranny cooling lines had been touching the starter and grounding it out after i put in a new radiator...simple fix, but drove me crazy doing all the investigation with the topside electrical components, before the realization hit me in the head like a ton of bricks... :eek:

[GaWd]

Ok, something is just not right, I'll post a new topic.

[ March 30, 2002: Message edited by: GaWd ]</p>

[wanablikemike]

Just for giggles ... are you sure you've got your timing down tight. I just swapped my friend's motor out with another complete motor that was running fine when we pulled it. After hours upon frustrated hours of trying to get it to start I found out that the timing was just barely off and thus I got no spark past the rotor. Just thought I would state the obvious because sometimes that's the hardest thing to find. ;)

[Rogue]

don't know if this will help any or not, I replaced a forklift motor ( '39 continental ) ran fine leaked oil like a seive, put new long block in won't start, ended up replacing the whole ignition system for no spark - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, points and condensor ( this was while i was young and dumb - still dumb just older ) n e ways this distributor had a little plastic plate underneath where the rotor and points and everything sat that basically looked like a dust cover for the weights on the advance plate, well...turned out that this was my trouble from the word go! don't know if your dizzy has 1 or not but somehow from what you're describing something inside your dizzy is shorted to ground, good luck

[GaWd]

Oh dear GaWd.

There was this stupid little plastic widget..looks kinda like a plug...it sat right between the points and condenser. When I started replacing parts, it came out.

I can see the little plug in my chilton's guide, but it doesn't say what it's for, nor where it goes or hoe to put it in.

Is this stupid little thing the problem?