Fixing cracked frame

[AMiller320]

So I was working on the Jeep this weekend (like everyone here, I'm sure). I was giving her all new brakes. When I took off the front driver's side wheel, I saw what seems to be a nasty crack in the frame. It's not a complete break, I'd say it's about half-way thorugh.

I can't even put into words how much I'm starting to hate this thing.

So, is that fixable? Could someone just weld a bead on it, or do I need to patch it?

This thing runs really, really well. The driveline is perfect, 4WD works very slick. I'd hate to lose it because of the frame. Unless, of course, somone here wants to buy it!

[McBain]

I guess it would depend on how bad the crack is (long and where exactly located). But the repair procedure in the FSM is to drill holes at the ends of the crack (to stop the crack from propagating). Then V grind the crack, weld (electric to keep heat localized) and grind flush.

[64Trvlr]

Where is the crack and how bad is it? You can drill the ends of the crack and then fishplate it, that should be all you need to do.
:cool:

[AMiller320]

Well, it's just in front of the wheel on the driver's side.


It kind of looks like this...

------------------------------

...... | <--- crack
...... |
-------|----------------------

(ignore the periods... there's just there for spacing)

The crack is all of the way through the frame, but it's not broken all of the way off -- it's still connected on about half.

[ January 07, 2002: Message edited by: AMiller320 ]

[Sgt. Dave]

Is what you are describing just aft of the bumper bracket? If so, I think it's a die mark, or an engineered "crush" in the frame horn. Mine has 'em on both sides, doesn't seem to bother anything. If it worries you, stop drill it, weld it up and weld a fish plate on.

[PAJEEPER]

I think its probably what sgt dave was refering to. That GW would have to be pounded harder than you could ever imagine to crack the frame up there. Now I could see in the rear but the front is boxed thats tough up there. Check it real good or have a welder look at it.

[WagonBurner]

My parts beast was a plow truck at a dealership for about 7 years. Talk about a mangled frame. not to mention they removed the plow with a torch and left a bit of stub. someone had done some welding on it before but it looks about as good of a job as I would have done (haven't welded yet).

Then theres the gastank area crack.

My bud's chev p/u had a crack all the way through the rail on pass. side in front of back tire.You could move it with your hands. It was welded up and has held for the last 6 months. he has 1 ton sping packs back there and it rides like a rock.

[AMiller320]

I'll have to check the other side tonight to see if it's supposed to be there. That would make me very, very happy if it's not really cracked. It does seem like an odd spot for a crack, though.

Can I ask another dumb question? How does the tailgate work in these things... do I have to lower the glass to open the door? The glass won't lower, and I can't get the back open.

[JINGA]

If you do need to weld it (and don't want to pay a repair shop), let me emphasize the need for the stop-crack holes mentioned above.

Also the placement is important on these holes. Cracks can continue past the point of where they are visible. By incorrectly drilling a stop-crack hole you can, in essence, create two cracks where before there was only one.

If it was my rig, I would drill it, weld it, then reinforce it. I'm basing this on my engineering education, my years of work as a non-destructive tester, and my paranoia. smile.gif

Tailgates: They don't work. JK, do some searching, there's plenty of info on here for them.

[Angie D]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I can't even put into words how much I'm starting to hate this thing.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Basically it's a really ugly truck. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like you are getting frustrated with your GW. Just telling you...you're not alone. Probably we have all been there. Wondering what the heck did I buy this thing for?? I don't need this headache and money pit. Then suddenly something will start working and all is forgiven. It's the nature of the it. Just have to understand they need alot of maintenance and attention.

My '90 has a lot of rust too, and different colored fenders, and holes, and two missing caps. I know people look at me and think that is a really awful looking truck. Look how it shakes...But I don't care, I love it. Someday it will look great too. Yours will too.

[AMiller320]

Angie --

I love this truck! But that's the problem... I'm really annoyed that I might have to part it out because of a stupid cracked frame, which I didn't see until -after- I put in several hundred dollars of parts. So for I've paid about $1000 and driven it about 50 miles. Hrm.

Well, I took it to a local body shop today that said they would take a look at it for me today. I'll let y'all know what they say. Hopefully it's good news.

Oh, and to reply to an earlier post -- the crack is about 18 inches back from the bumper mounts. I don't think it's an engineered crush.

[bigwillys]

There is no need to part out your truck over a frame crack, its not really that big of a deal. I broke my frame on my 59 Willys Pickup clean through pulling my friend's F250 out of a riverbed. The welding has held up fine over the last two years, and i still wheel the truck hard. Don't worry about the crack, like everyone says, drill it, weld it, plate it if you want to, then forget about it, its no big deal. smile.gif

[andy d]

the neat thing about frame repair is it doesnt hafta look pretty, it just needs to hold :D.

[Dan G]

Yes, the tailgate glass needs to come down before you can open the tailgate!

[Tad]

Don't Panic-
Clean the area really really good with a wire wheel/brush. Get it down to the bare metal. Brush or spray some muratic acid on it (the pool stuff) and let it rust for a day or two. This will show you a very distinct line where the crack starts and stops. Go about 1/4" past this area and drill 1/8" holes past both ends of the crack. Bevel the crack about half way through the frame with a grinder/cut off tool. Weld it with a decent (I would stay away from 110 volt flux core) amperage MIG or SMAW set up (if you don't weld, get someone who does). Grind the area flush and weld 10 to 12 gauge patch over the area - **POINT** - do not weld a solid seam on the patch - a simple pitch of 1" every 2" is quite stabe and will keep down the distortion factor. Email me, send me pic's if I can help anymore.

[64Trvlr]

i_, ¡?riginally posted by AMiller320:
Angie --

I love this truck! But that's the problem... I'm really annoyed that I might have to part it out because of a stupid cracked frame,[/QUOTE]

Like everyone else has said, quit thinking this to death. If you can't weld the crack then go to a WELDING shop and have them do it. No muss, no fuss. Then go drive your Jeep.