Choptop/Crewcab Progress *update 2/3 [Archive] - International Full Size Jeep Association

youngjeeper

11-11-2008, 08:33 PM

Figured I'd start a build-up thread, might help some people along the way.

Plan:
I've got an '88 Waggie, bent up roof from a tip over. I made the decision to do a half truck/half cab style with the body. I will be cutting off part of the roof, and using the back piece of a J-truck Cab to box in my "new" Waggie cab. The plan is to keep the stock bench seat in the rear. Once all of the body work is complete I will be putting in a full rollcage inside the cab; also will be removing the stock tailgate and building my own. The carpet side panels in the rear will become removable metal ones; the speakers will be moved into the rear cab doors.

I'm going to try and take many pictures as I go along, some with measurements, to make this easier on anyone who may have a similar idea in the future.

11/11/08
Today I didn't have much planned, mainly wanted to take measurements, sit back and think. I moved the cab piece by the jeep and measured, marked, measured. Went into the back of the Waggie, did the same. Had to make a note of how far back the rear seat leans; that will determine where the cab piece will be welded in. Didn't know what to do next so I cut some carpet and thought for awhile. I realized after awhile, I would get nowhere if I didn't just go ahead and cut the d*** top off.

Here's the damage
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4852.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4863.jpg

This is a measurement from the window frame to the rear of the stock seat
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4858.jpg

Roof to Floor measurement ~42"
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4859.jpg

Cut Lines (Rear corner)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4869.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4870.jpg

Cut Line Roof (Inside of roof support) ~3" out where the cab will weld in.
I will be cutting the J-truck cab so that I can slide it into place and the seam will be under the Waggie roof; I will then cut off the extra 3" sticking out past the cab. (Will be more understandable later)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4865.jpg

Cut one
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4871.jpg

Cut two
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4886.jpg

Cut three
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4897.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4901.jpg

Pile of junk I had to take off (PM me if you see anything you want)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4867.jpg

I had to go into work and didn't get to finish cutting the roof section today. Only have about 4" left on each side of the roof till the portion comes off! Tomorrow I will finish that up and hopefully begin cutting on the Cab piece.

More pics are in my album: http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/

dajeeps

11-11-2008, 09:54 PM

are you using the gw frame or the truck frame?sound like you have it planed out well.
good luck.:thumbsup:

youngjeeper

11-11-2008, 10:08 PM

are you using the gw frame or the truck frame?sound like you have it planed out well.
good luck.:thumbsup:

The Waggie frame...I didn't cut the whole body in half like you, just the roof line. The sides of the Waggie will be my "bed sides" up to the "new" boxed cab. The tricky part will be cutting the truck cab rear to fit INSIDE of the Waggie. Hard to explain, you'll have to see!

youngjeeper

11-12-2008, 06:15 PM

11/12/08

Well today brought some problems to the table that I should've considered from the beginning. Today I finished cutting the roof, made templates for the wheel well cuts on the J-cab, measured an azzload and cut the J-cab all up...and then realized a big issue. The crushed roof bent up the C-pillar on the driver side pretty bad; clocked inward. Also, the bedsides are kicked outward about an inch (not a huge issue as you get up to where the cab will weld in). After a lot of measuring and cutting I decided to hold up the J-cab piece to see if I measured the height correctly; this was BEFORE cutting the space for the wheel wells. Turns out because of the crooked pillars, the left of the cab (where the two pieces join) is outside of the pillar an inch on the driver side, and inside an inch on the passenger side. :thumbsdow Not cool! Tried to high lift the roof up thinking it MAY bring the pillar out, didn't work. I decided it was time to call it a day, and look at it on Friday. I think I'm going to try and pull the pillar with a come-a-long and see what happens. Anyways, here are the pics from the day!

Go roof!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4906.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4909.jpg

You can see the crookedness a bit here
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4912.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4914.jpg

Some rags and tape to cover the hole for now
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4915.jpg

Random measurements, showing where the J-cab will be at under the roof, and where I cut.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4920.jpg

This is where we start on the J-cab work..Cab as a whole here
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4922.jpg

Initial cut (cut lines and measurements are in my photobucket album) Took off cab walls and floor.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4930.jpg

Good bit higher after the first cut, but still can't tell have "off" it will be
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4932.jpg

2nd cut section. Took off remaining roof and gutters
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4942.jpg

And the problems start showing now...(again this is before the cut that will set it on top of the wheel wells)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4950.jpg

That piece on the side of the J-cab once fit up on the ledge before serious cutting.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4951.jpg

And the Hi-lift attempt..I was thinking that if the roof lifted it may lift the pillar out?
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4954.jpg

So Friday, I'll be trying a come-a-long on the pillar to see what I can do. If anyone has ideas/thoughts, post up!

more pics: http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/

mcjeep80

11-12-2008, 06:50 PM

:rolleyes: maby run the come along from door jam to door jam and pull them together. that should force the c pillar back up. then pry it up like you tried in the last pic with the high lift. pull a bind on it then persuade it with a hammer:D. or pull the bottom together and use the high lift to spread the top of the doors:thumbsup:

hey it worked great in my head!

Casey

11-12-2008, 07:43 PM

Did you get some more ink? :D

Try welding the roof to something to pull it with, the way a body shop would?

dajeeps

11-12-2008, 07:58 PM

lokking good so far.on the truck cab you will notice the 1'' differance.this is what i did,cut the 90 degree corner on the truck cab.this way you can pull the cab of the truck to meet up with the door seal lip. i'll post a pic before the night is through.

youngjeeper

11-12-2008, 08:51 PM

Did you get some more ink? :D

Try welding the roof to something to pull it with, the way a body shop would?
Guy from work (actually has 2 wagoneers) said he has a hydraulic puller --10ton I think? I told him my situation and he seems to think it would do the job. I know nothing about this puller, or what it does, but I might wait till this weekend and check into that.

I had to shorten it down to 41.5" from top of J-cab to bottom to fit "within" the Waggie cab
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4934.jpg

-dajeeps the pic would be nice, I think it will fit right in how I've got it (once I do the cut to fit on the fender wells) when the pillars are straightened out, but I'm not sure yet!

Dmntxn77

11-12-2008, 08:54 PM

Guy from work (actually has 2 wagoneers) said he has a hydraulic puller --10ton I think? I told him my situation and he seems to think it would do the job. I know nothing about this puller, or what it does, but I might wait till this weekend and check into that.

My father-in-law has one of them that he got from HF. We were able to re-square an enclosed trailer with it....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44900

youngjeeper

11-16-2008, 07:20 PM

Well I didn't get a chance to use the hydraulic puller yet..but I went to HF and bought a come-a-long to try out. I hooked the come-a-long up to the top of the c-pillar and a telephone pole. Only result I got was some more negative bend in my driver rear leaf spring. I think it pulled my rear body panels out a bit more too.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4961.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN4962.jpg

Tad

11-16-2008, 07:34 PM

youngjeeper

11-16-2008, 08:05 PM

Dan,
No body work expert here but I think you are going to need a turnbuckle on the inside from an oposing angle to push that back.
Looks like you are just pulling the jeep in that pic.
I could be wrong and the pic's look great, keep it up.
I'll cut my J2000 as soon as you teach me more about the fitup (I'm also thinking about grafting the brow onto the front).

Yeah, I'm going to post up on an auto body work forum and see what is recommended. I am no body work expert by far! I've got a few more ideas that I may try this week..Like you said something from the inside pushing at it..

I think that this would be a MUCH easier job if my body pillars and body were not crooked. :banghead:

gotmike

11-16-2008, 09:29 PM

take a 2x4 and put a bottle jack in the opposite corner from the bent pillar and cut the 2x4 to length... then just push them apart... you might want to re-inforce the corner you're pushing from with a plate of some sort... to spread out the pressure...

oz J-2000

11-16-2008, 10:12 PM

Good thread. I want to keep an eye on your progress because I'm planning on mating my J-2000 with a waggy to make a diesel J-truck crew cab. I just have not gotten up the courage to pull out my sawzall and plasma cutter:sawzall:

dajeeps

11-16-2008, 11:50 PM

have you thought about heating the pilers up with a torch so it would be more plyable.i'm thinking about doing that on some body parts i have to refab.

Smith

11-17-2008, 06:07 AM

I rolled my 91 Exploder an' ended up usin' a hydraulic power assist (10 Ton) to push my roof back into alignment after the roll caused the A pillar to shift. It just needs a very solid area to push off from. If you had pipe or somethin' to extend it, you might be able to run it from the opposite side floor to the damaged section. If the resisting side is solid and you have something to spread the load, there shouldn't be any risk of damaging that, and the ram will definately be able to straighten it up

youngjeeper

11-17-2008, 10:37 AM

bigun

11-17-2008, 04:01 PM

Be sure to have some one there to take pictures of the carnage as it happens!!

misfittom138

11-17-2008, 08:32 PM

Nice, I like where you are going with this! Can't wait to see it done.

mcjeep80

11-18-2008, 09:53 AM

youngjeeper

11-18-2008, 10:46 AM

still think you need to pull the bottom of the c-pillars together with the come along. the way the body is pushed out, it is stronger than the roof so it will keep pulling the roof back down. you will probably have to use the jack to push the top up and out while pulling the base of the pillars back together:rolleyes:

I don't quite understand how that would work..I'm only trying to bend the driver side pillar outward, passenger side is straight. By hooking the two together, would it not bend the passenger side? Correct me if I'm thinking wrong, I don't have much sense with this kind of stuff.

tgreening

11-18-2008, 04:07 PM

I don't quite understand how that would work..I'm only trying to bend the driver side pillar outward, passenger side is straight. By hooking the two together, would it not bend the passenger side? Correct me if I'm thinking wrong, I don't have much sense with this kind of stuff.

We used to have a body shop and the one thing you have to remember when you are trying to pull something, whether it's frame or body, is that you have to stop everything from moving except what you want to move.

In your case it appears you want to pull the drivers side c-pillar and nothing else. Even if you do have multiple things to pull it's generally best to yank one thing at a time. Just a quick and dirty opinion but I think you were on the right track back with the phone pole and come-along.

Try this. Cut a 4x4 of sufficient length to jam between the frame and axle. This will stop the suspension from collapsing on that side. Stick a bottle jack under the axle tube as close to the wheel as you can get it. This will stop the tire from compressing. That should pretty much take care of that issue but will probably need some tweaking as to placement and such.

It would be great if you had another pole on the passenger side of the truck. This way you could attach a come along on that c-pillar and just take up the slack. This will stop that side from going along for the ride when you start pulling the driver side.

Another potential issue is you may actually start dragging the whole truck. Again a passenger side pole would come in handy as a place to anchor the frame. Remember, you don't want anything to move except want you want to move, in your case the drivers side c-pillar.

The frame tie down you might even accomplish using some long-azz rebar as stakes and you can chain your frame to those. The c-pillar on that side would be a bit trickier due to its height.

These are just some suggestions on a solution based on making due with what you may have on hand. A good body shop would have a frame table where you could make all these attachments but in your case it's not a viable solution.

Good luck. You have an interesting project going.

mcjeep80

11-18-2008, 04:28 PM

from the pics it looks like where the c-pillar meets the body on the drivers side is pushed out. if the body is pushed out it wont matter if you can pull or push the top where you want it. the body will keep pulling it back down. now that is just the way it works in my head. if nothing else works its just another option to try:D

Dmntxn77

11-18-2008, 08:33 PM

It would be great if you had another pole on the passenger side of the truck. This way you could attach a come along on that c-pillar and just take up the slack. This will stop that side from going along for the ride when you start pulling the driver side.

You could always just hook a strap to the right side and another rig. Then, you could just pull hard enough to put some tension on the strap. That should keep your rig from sliding or trying to tip over once you immobilise the left suspension.

tgreening

11-19-2008, 06:33 AM

You could always just hook a strap to the right side and another rig. Then, you could just pull hard enough to put some tension on the strap. That should keep your rig from sliding or trying to tip over once you immobilise the left suspension.

Absolutely. Whatever the OP has at hand and is willing to hook to. I remember on a trail run we had someone with IFS fold the entire drivers side of that mess up under his motor. We had about 5 rigs attached to his truck via winch line while I used my winch to pull it where it needed to be. An onboard welder, a couple sticks, and he was back in biz.

Whatever works.

BIGYELLOW78J10

11-19-2008, 06:48 AM

Dan,

I think tgreening is heading you in the right direction. You have to have some point secured to make the bent parts rotate and bend the right direction.

What it you attach the strap to the telephone pole (being remarkably attentive to not accidently yanking it with your rig) and to the top of the C pillar. Roll the rig til you get a little tension. Then, secure the come-a-long to the bottom of the C pillar and attach it to an adjacent rig or to the seat belt mount. Be very careful using the seat belt mount on the wheel well as I have had several rust out and fall out.

Your C pillare looks like this
/
\

So once you straighten it out, then working to get the roof shifted as earlier suggested (block the frame, jack the axle) can really do some work.

A second come-a-long would be nice as well.

Good luck!

Daniel

BIGYELLOW78J10

11-19-2008, 06:52 AM

Like this.

http://gfsj.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3250&d=1227102895

daddywinz

11-25-2008, 11:34 PM

i'm new to this site.

excellent venture! i love diy crew cabs.

i'd definitely gusset that roof section, with at least some flatbar or plate, temporarily, from the top of both posts...all the way across the roof's profile. just tack it every few inches. if you don't hold the shape of the roof while you jack, you could very well start some rippling and tweaking (more).

if it were me, i'd use 1x1x1/8" angle iron. wrap it inside the roof's profile from post to post along your install line. just use a grinder or chop saw to cut a series of notches (called kerfing) in the vertical section of the 1x1 so it bends to match the roof's profile.

if you get the j's patch piece the right shape and size, you can wrap it with small 1/8"x1" flatbar, or something, to give it some shape rigidity too.

if you have a pile of angle or flatbar, you should X the "bed" right where you're gonna jack (out of the way of the j's patch piece). that way, only the posts are moving and not the whole side. serious chop & section guys use lots of temporary bracing!

another way to get it square is to use the j's section. if you can get it started in place under the roof (while it's still racked to one side a bit) PROBABLY UNDER THE DRIVER'S SIDE CORNER, start tacking it into place. as you jack the roof to square, you'll know it because the j's section will start lining up and dropping in. it may start out half in/half out of position, but if you USE ALIGNMENT MARKS FROM CENTER TO GET IT STARTED, it'll eventually work into place. if you've wrapped the j's section, you can pry on the edges to get it into place (otherwise it'd crumple around where you jam a crowbar).

if you use the j's section to pry the top over, make sure you have like a foot long section with 8-10 tacks before you start putting pressure to the joint. i would even TACK A JACKING PLATE below the window (maybe a 6x6" plate with a piece of angle welded on it). then jack sideways against that til it's square.

hope all that's not "too much information".

YOU'LL LOVE THE EXTRA MATERIAL AROUND THE JOINT FOR WELDING IT UP. that thicker metal makes a great heat-sink and allows for a bigger misfit.

an IH guy would use plywood with a house window! so, you're doin' good!

i need to shut up, kevin

youngjeeper

11-30-2008, 12:34 PM

Good ideas guys..I'll probably do some work on it this week once it dries out here. I'll keep this updated.

Kevin- I like that idea of fitting in the J-cab piece and squaring it just to the point where it will fit in nicely. I'm a little afraid to do that though, I still need to cut more off of it to fit it in, and I'm afraid if I do that with the body how it is now..if it straightens out there could be some gaps/fitment issues.

youngjeeper

12-01-2008, 11:57 AM

Well after looking at everyones ideas, I'm going to try this first..and if I can get solid mounting surfaces, I will strap the bottom of the pillar to my Blazer, and the top to the telephone pole. We'll see what happens! :confused:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/idea.jpg

youngjeeper

12-01-2008, 08:34 PM

12/01/08

Alright I hadn't heard anything about my buddy with the hydraulic puller (porta-power), so I went to just go buy one today..home depot didn't have them as they say online. Time for a new plan..

Took my come-a-long and attached it with a strap around the bottom of the C-pillar, and the other end on one of my floor tie downs. I then took a hi-lift jack and a 3' 2x4 piece and angled it at the top of the pillar, the base rested against the tire well and the floor.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5007.jpg

As you can see, with the push force of the 2x4 and the pull force with the come-a-long, the pillar came right back into place
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5009.jpg

I compared the 2 pillars from the rear, looked even. I wanted to make sure that the c-pillar would not pop back out of place so I welded a piece of scrap metal across to the other side before releasing the tension.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5012.jpg

Pass. side
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5018.jpg

As you can see..it looks a LOT better than before!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5019.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5023.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5024.jpg

And by fixing the pillar, I uncovered the next problem..The door frame is bent inward!!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5021.jpg

Next up will be to remove the window in the door to fix that slight lean, and to pull in the rear body panels that lean out.

Smith

12-02-2008, 09:45 AM

When it rains it pours! Haha. Glad the Hi-jack worked out nicely. Looks like a quick set up too if you ever need to adjust it a bit more.

I rolled the window down on my Exploder an' just ran a 2x4 through the window to use as a lever to pull it back. Might not work very well for this since the metal is alot thinner an' could bend wonky

dajeeps

12-02-2008, 10:01 AM

looks good glad to see that your one step closer:thumbsup:

misfittom138

12-02-2008, 03:47 PM

Nice job!

Stuka

12-02-2008, 09:03 PM

That looks a whole lot better.

fulsizjeep

12-02-2008, 09:14 PM

you are on to something there Dan, looks good :fsj:

krek

12-02-2008, 09:35 PM

Great job!

Keep bending until it is either straight or ruined. :D

daddywinz

12-03-2008, 02:27 PM

danger must be your middle name.

the last high lift i had, i loaned it to a neighbor and said, "watch yourself, these things can bite". two seconds later he lost his grip on the jack handle and took one right in the jaw. i had to seriously bite my tongue, not to laugh out loud.

when he never returned it, i figured he deserved to keep it after that.

reminds me of when my (not so bright) roommate came home from working at the local "quicky lube" with a shiner. he was down in the pit under the car,...and he was PULLING the wrench, which was on the oil drain plug, with all his might. what a dummy (never done that, myself:whistle: ).

who needs teeth anyway?

youngjeeper

12-03-2008, 03:19 PM

Great job!

Keep bending until it is either straight or ruined. :D

Well I spent about 4 hours working on it today..Hoped to get the j-cab piece fit in snug :rolleyes: yeah....right....

Of course at first I made nice measurements and nice cuts so I wouldn't have to do a lot of fill in. Then as I tried to fit it in each time after cutting and something else was in the way I got out of control..Usually I step away, But I really wanted that piece to fit TONIGHT. Made some sloppy and stupid chop offs, had a grinding disc blow up in my face. After that I called it quits. This project I thought would just "fit right up," yeah..it doesn't. Pics later. :banghead:

Merc69

12-03-2008, 03:26 PM

Dude...just chop it all off, come over here for the weekend and lets build a complete cage for that thing. Then have an awning shop build you a ragtop.

:sawzall:

youngjeeper

12-03-2008, 03:54 PM

Dude...just chop it all off, come over here for the weekend and lets build a complete cage for that thing. Then have an awning shop build you a ragtop.

:sawzall:

Too much work into it already..I won't give up until there is no more sheet metal left to cut on that j-cab. Plus, the whole point of wanting an actual closed in cab, is so my dog doesn't fall out if I ever tip 'er again

mcjeep80

12-03-2008, 04:10 PM

hey! i have a "high lift" jack just like that. the way they put those handles on is crap! i welded some strap to the sides of mine when it cracked. you may want to concider that before yours does. just something to think about:rolleyes:

AKAMC

12-03-2008, 05:59 PM

Plus, the whole point of wanting an actual closed in cab, is so my dog doesn't fall out if I ever tip 'er againLove that! My main reason for a crewcab is so teh dogs can stay warm in teh cab with me and still have a bed to tote junk around in. :drivin: :thumbsup:

youngjeeper

12-04-2008, 03:07 PM

Well, I'm going to throw in the towel for a bit. Should've never pulled out the sawzall. Something on that Jeep is off, and it is throwing everything else off. If I keep cutting more and more to make it fit, it's going to look even worse. :banghead:

youngjeeper

12-04-2008, 03:14 PM

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5063.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5066.jpg

Notice the location of the pillars and inner gutters
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5068.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5067.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5065.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5064.jpg

Fits snug on driver side, not so much on passenger. I'm thinking now, maybe I didn't bend that c-pillar outward enough?

dajeeps

12-04-2008, 03:28 PM

don't give up now.looking good so far just patch it in or peice in, and lots of bondo. for me bondo will be my best freind to hide all my mistakes.

krek

12-04-2008, 03:36 PM

youngjeeper

12-04-2008, 04:01 PM

Definitely walk away from it when you feel that frustrated.

In a couple days look at it again. You're going to need to weld in some patch pieces to bridge the gap anyway, I don't think you are as far off as you think. :)

This is going to be a trail rig, correct?
Yeah, It's a trail rig. But I'd like it to look like it was built like that as much as possible (unlikely at this point). I've got my self in quite a mess in the past 2 days with patch work from being angry and not thinking through, just thinking I'm so close to being done and whipping out the grinder.

I really think in order for it to even look remotely "even" I'm going to half to do some serious work on the pillar once again. Somehow the cab piece was completely measured and centered, but an inch off on the pass. side? No amount of patch work "as-is" will make it look good. :rolleyes:

misfittom138

12-04-2008, 04:43 PM

It's looking good! I think you are doing a great job. And hey, I did the same thing to my inner fenders with the expansion foam! LOL. :D

Tad

12-04-2008, 06:59 PM

I've got my self in quite a mess in the past 2 days with patch work from being angry and not thinking through, just thinking I'm so close to being done and whipping out the grinder.
Dan,
I've watched your work since before you could weld.
You do good quality work, you always have.
Don't doubt yourself in anyway.

Step back, have another Keystone Light.
It will workout fine.
I know you will make the best decision for what needs to happen.

daddywinz

12-05-2008, 02:46 AM

spray foam? my dad calls that "carpenter in a can".

anyways, that's why God made caulk!

heck, did you save the cutoffs? butt weld them back on and grind it flat(ish). y'ought to use "raptor" liner and bed-line the back anyway. that'll cover a multitude of sins.

and, i agree, yer doin' good. put some of that metal back (or other flat plate) and go at shaping it again.:thumbsup:

youngjeeper

12-05-2008, 03:47 PM

Thanks for the comments guys. Sometimes it's best to STEP AWAY for awhile. So I've decided to put away the saws, grinders, welders for a bit and just look at it everyday until the solution appears.

I've saved all metal I cut off, so that will help with the patch work. I also had already planned to use bedliner in the rear to make it look better, the raised metal on the floor and raised metal on the cab piece don't quite line up.

I've got a few ideas already, But I'm just writing them down for now. I think I need to work on straightening the roof and pillar more and that may "fix" things a little. I also had a thought of cutting that cab piece in two pieces (top and bottom) and then fitting them separately. Anyways, I'll probably let 'er sit till after the new year.

greasemnky9

12-16-2008, 04:49 AM

Elliott

12-16-2008, 07:44 AM

Looks to me like you got all the makings of a great Alaskan :thumbsup:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5009.jpg

youngjeeper

12-16-2008, 11:02 AM

Dan,
What about using diamond plate to cover up the raised part on the cab and to make the steel sides? Maybe get some diamond plate tailgate lip covers to cover the bed rails and tailgate.What are you planning on doing for the tailgate? I think i would remove the glass and regulator and inside latch and graft in a outside latch. You are doing a great job so far I will be looking in to see the progress and how it turns out.

Not sure what I'm doing about the tailgate yet..I'm hoping by the time I get back to work (after xmas) the bed rails I saw as I was closing the store are still there and on clearance. Steel bed rails and tailgate lips for 3.99!! :banghead:

youngjeeper

12-31-2008, 09:54 AM

Well Well...After leaving it be for awhile and going on vacation..the itch is back! I have been viewing pictures and I think I have it figured out. Looking at the roof on the driver side, it looks pushed in a bit. Also, the only pillar that could be "wrong" is the driver side C-Pillar. So...If I pull out that pillar a bit more, it will correct the roof as well and that cab piece SHOULD fit in evenly to the passenger side. The next issue is fixing all that cutting I did on the cab when I was angry!!

I will get into this later on in the week. And I did mention to pickup a Steel tailgate lip from a 94 Dodge ram, Looks like if I cut it in half it will make PERFECT bed rails for my "truck bed" !

youngjeeper

01-11-2009, 11:47 AM

Well I sealed up one hole yesterday before the rain came (where the rear pillars are cut). I just welded in some sheetmetal and smoothed it with the flap disc. Turned out pretty well, just need a little filler to make it perfect -a few holes after I grinded from the metal being so thin. I'll have pics of that when I finish the other side.

I also met up with some local Jeepers here who were having a mild trail ride in the Nat'l Forest. I decided to attend, maybe it will encourage me a bit more. I learned FL wheeling is WAY different than what I'm used to. It was mainly dirt roads through the forest that would turn into water roads that would sink my tires. A good bit of mud too which I'm not a big fan of, especially since I'm in the middle of body work and now my truck is all muddy. Someone was taking pics and vid so I'll see if I can grab some. As soon as I get caught up on school, I'll be finishing up my truck.

kaizer27

01-11-2009, 03:02 PM

very cool, interested to see how it finished up.

fulsizjeep

01-11-2009, 04:29 PM

(I'm also thinking about grafting the brow onto the front).WOOT! :thumbsup:

Lookin good Andrew. :thumbsup: Once they get tweaked, Sometimes it takes some experimenting to get it squared back up. :cool:

youngjeeper

02-03-2009, 12:06 PM

Well I've been real busy with the start of the new semester..Haven't had time to do a whole lot lately. I've been waiting on my buddy to have some spare time to help me bend that pillar some more --so that part of the project is on hold.

Today I decided to get rid of some of the rust build-up do to having no top. Wire-wheeled some things and sprayed some primer on. Noticed my driver rear 1/4 panel had some cancer bubbles, so I took the wire wheel to it..Wasn't expecting to see what I saw. I'm either going to have to weld in a patch, or cut it off. If I cut it off, it will look a bit awkward with where the bumper is. Also noticed cancer on the rockers, So I guess I'll be cutting them out and building rock rails. Anyway..Here is some pics.

Here is where I filled in the pillar hole. Not quite done..Need some bondo work to completely smooth it out, and the other side I haven't done at all. I just welded some sheet metal I had cut off on there and grinded it smooth with a flap disc
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0001.jpg

1/4 Panel bubbling
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0028.jpg

After wire wheel
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0029.jpg

I could cut straight across and weld in a panel, but it would look awkward with my rear bumper where it is
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0030.jpg

Rocker Damage
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0031.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0033.jpg

I have no idea how this happened.. :confused:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0003G.jpg

Anyways, if you have suggestions for that 1/4 panel..lemme know!

Tad

02-03-2009, 12:28 PM

I cut my lower rear quarters off but they were way worse than yours.

goldhammer

02-03-2009, 01:28 PM

For a trail rig, I'd cut them, then trim the bumper back to a couple of inches outside the rails, and move the recovery points in even with the rails.

rustywagoneers_com

02-03-2009, 02:41 PM

The compromise that I usually pick is:

Cut off the dogleg at the lower body line, Plate the bottom of the hole.
You will have to silicone the gasket and the general area of the filler neck, because you will cut flush with the bottom of the tubes.

And then, bring the bumper along underneath the old dogleg.

Straight, or bent, or however you want to do it.

peace
Dave

youngjeeper

02-12-2009, 03:53 PM

Over the past few days I taught myself some how to do some body repair. First on I wirewheeled all the rust and also sprayed rust converter on for extra protection. I then laid fiberglass and resin over the area. I was inpatient sanding the fiberglass and decided to whip out the grinder with a flap disc :rolleyes: Managed to dimple the fiberglass really badly. Today I decided I'd use some body filler on it. Spread that crap one, sanded it down with some 200 grit, sprayed on a couple coats of sandable primer, then added a few coats of "color match" spray paint. As you can see I'm going to need to spray that entire panel, or maybe a wash and buff of the surrounding area will do. I'm pretty satisfied for my first time using bondo and fiberglass. Hopefully soon my roommate will have time to help me bend that pillar so I can get the cab boxed in! In the mean time, I've got a few more small projects to do.

Final Result

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Rust%20and%20damage/Photo-0017.jpg

jaber

02-12-2009, 06:18 PM

Dont give up, your making great progress. Not to mention the first one you do is ALWAYS trial and error. Usually more error, but thats how we learn. Cant wait to see your final result.:thumbsup:

Bob Barry

02-13-2009, 10:36 AM

Anyways, if you have suggestions for that 1/4 panel..lemme know!

Here's what I did to mine:

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/1978_chero_body.html

You can see what it's doing for me now:

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/climb21.JPG

Even still, I bang up what's left of my quarter-panels, but it makes it less-likely.

orangecherokee

02-13-2009, 10:50 AM

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee46/orangecherokee/Tellico%20December%2008/DSC03245.jpg

cut them off. of course in this pic i already bobbed it but you get the idea.

youngjeeper

02-13-2009, 11:13 AM

Yeah probably would of been easier..but I've already got enough patch work to do for now with the cab piece. Maybe later down the line when the other side rusts out.

I dig that look though

duncanstives

02-19-2009, 08:56 PM

I would have painted it and left the holes... Then carefully drilled them the same way on the other side... They looked cool... LOL

youngjeeper

03-10-2009, 10:37 AM

Update: 03/10/09

It's been awhile since I've managed to get anything done..Built up frustration, work, and lots of studying has held me back. I have learned to throw in the towel for awhile when I get pissed off and start throwing things at my Jeep.

Well it's Spring Break week now and instead of going to the beach and consuming mass amounts of beers, getting crisp red, and eyeing hot girls...I drove my Jeep up to my parents house in GA to get some work done. Shouldv'e seen the looks I got on the normally 4 hour trip that took me 6 and half! CB wire tieing my door shut, rope and zipties holding my tailgate shut..I made it up at a VERY surprising 13.3mpg!

Saturday morning we went to a breakfast with the GFSJ club and I got some "new" stock springs from "tejesol," fronts are already installed, rears hopefully today will be on. No more negative arch or "S" shaped springs..for now.

"trickc" came by Saturday and along with my dad we got all the pillars aligned..the door now shuts! With some more eyes on the project, we came up with some good ideas on how to get everything sealed up and completed. I went out yesterday and bought some more metal and made a template for the bottom half of the j-truck cab..Details on all this later. The bed sides have slowly become more crooked and I will be taking a giant tie down around the whole thing to hopefully bring them back inward. I haven't taken any pictures yet, but I'm hoping to have everything welded in (for the most part) by Friday.

I will go into details when I get further along and have pics so keep a look out!

:drivin:

youngjeeper

03-10-2009, 08:17 PM

Todays work:
I have the cab welded in place enough to keep it in place now. Because I cut too much off in previous times, the bottom of the cab piece does not touch the floor or the fender wells. The J-truck cab metal corrugation does not match the floor of the wagoneer either, which looks odd. I decided the easiest way to fix the areas where I lazily took too much off and the weird non-matching corrugation is to make a template of the bottom half and cut it out of sheet metal. I will be welding the sheet metal to the J-truck cab, and it will also be what is welded to the floor, the bedsides, and the fender wells. (if you look at pics of the cab in you can see the gaps)

Well I've got the cab piece welded in on the sides to hold it in place. 6.5" from back from the C-pillar, just enough for the rear seat to stay
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5129.jpg

I cut too much off the J-cab intially, as you can see in pictures. I needed to make sure the cab was 6.5" back from the C-pillar so I welded some 1x1 tubing on the bedside that was 6.5" long. This allowed me to weld the cab piece enough to stay in place, at the right place, and also a good base for the sheetmetal that will fill in the spot between the door and the cab piece
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5142.jpg

Below the gutter was also cut to 6.5" and I welded the cab piece to the inner gutter a bit to hold the top in place.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5140.jpg

As you can see the rear seat fits!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5139.jpg

Here you can see the tubing I welded to the bedside better, and where it attaches to the cab. That open area will be sheet metal later on.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5133.jpg

And the other side..
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5134.jpg

I bolted in a 2x4 to keep the bottom of the J-cab in place, since as of now, it doesn't reach the floor for me to weld it up. It will be removed when the sheet metal template is welded on.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5136.jpg

Another inside pic..
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5138.jpg

The sheet metal cut out..the top of it will need to be cut about 3 inches. It will come up to the curve below the window, after grinding the weld it will match the curve and look stock. It will be easier to understand when it's welded in.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5132.jpg

Pic from the rear..This shows how the corrugation does not match up, as well as the gaps between the wagoneer and how I cut the cab piece in anger. (the sheet metal goes over the bottom half and fills all the gaps between cab and body..the corrugated pieces are bare metal on the cab piece so when I add the sheet metal piece on I can drill holes and do rosebud welds to connect the two pieces better)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5131.jpg

And from the distance..
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5141.jpg
More tomorrow!

jeepjerry

03-10-2009, 08:33 PM

Sweet..:thumbsup:

I wish i had florida weather by me right now. :rolleyes: I have to wait a few months before i can work in a t-shirt with the garage wide open.

youngjeeper

03-12-2009, 07:41 PM

03/12/09 Progress..

Template cut out for the most part...still needed trimming along the top. With the bent floor/bedsides/wheel wells it was a real b**** to get the template correctly fitted.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5143.jpg

For the roof line..1" flat bar 1/8" thick. Cut many times to fit the curve of the roof. Will smooth out later on. Had to smash the roof on the passenger side with a rubber mallet to make it match the driver side better.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5146.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5147.jpg

Roof line almost filled in..I'll figure out something else for the last few inches where the roof closes in more. The flat bar rests on top of where the chrome trim goes on the J-cab and against the J-cab roof line
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5148.jpg

Started welding in the sheet metal..Drilled holes to weld the sheet to the corrugated areas so there would be no "bubble" in the middle
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5152.jpg

Getting pretty good at sheet metal welding..even the overhead crap
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5153.jpg

Few interior shots early on..
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5173.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5172.jpg

Sheetmetal will fill in the sides..attaches to the tubing on the bed rail from my last post and will attach to the J-cab via angle iron. This was before the roof line was cut again
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5149.jpg

Inside w/sheetmetal side
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5155.jpg

Little bondo work on the roof for later on..
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5157.jpg

And after the roof line is re-cut. Black molding will go over it when the finishing work happens
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5159.jpg

Shot from the rear, metal tacked in well
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5151.jpg

Little welding
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5160.jpg

This top edge will be smoothed down and a little bondo added to blend with the curve below the window
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag Build/DSCN5169.jpg

Still lots to do, but the main part is finally complete!

fulsizjeep

03-13-2009, 07:21 AM

Very Nice Dan! Good to see you making progress! What speeds were you running to get 13.3 with that beasty?

HD_JEEP

03-13-2009, 08:42 AM

That is some great fab work you have done there. Keep us posted please :D. I love the pics.

:eek:

:thumbsup: :dancingbanana:

Casey

03-13-2009, 09:02 AM

:thumbsup:

Lookin' good Dan! Can't wait to see it. :cool:

youngjeeper

03-13-2009, 09:34 AM

Very Nice Dan! Good to see you making progress! What speeds were you running to get 13.3 with that beasty?

Couldn't tell you for sure as my speedometer is off..but i'd guess 60-65mph

Tad

03-13-2009, 03:44 PM

Very nice!
I'm going to have to come up with a different plan for mine since the JCab is heading to CA, maybe something with the rear section of the WT.

chr1s

03-14-2009, 01:31 PM

shazamm! thats looking REAL good YJ:thumbsup:

cant wait to see the finished product

youngjeeper

03-14-2009, 02:47 PM

Thanks for the comments guys! I'm happy to finally have it "somewhat" together. Now just comes the hours and hours of finishing work. My dad was able to squeeze the "bedsides" back straight. Used a rachet tie down looped from the inside of the doors around to the back. The tailgate now closes..but I will probably be getting rid of it anyway and making a solid non-opening "tailgate."

My goal is to have all the finishing work done and the window back in by the ECI in June.

youngjeeper

03-19-2009, 05:04 PM

March 19, 2009

Well back down at my house in FL now. That means using my welder (Lincoln 3200hd) which I haven't had good experiences with to date, no outside electrical sockets, back to school and work, and some hot sun. I managed to do a little work with the other "sheet metal window" getting it on, and somewhat boxed in. Took me awhile and a lot of piss welds from that dang Lincoln, turned all the way up it barely welds 20 gauge. I'm not sure if it's the wiring in the house (old house) or the two 25ft. thin extension cords I've been running. I will find out soon enough...I went out and bought a 10gauge 50ft. cord today.

Few pics..

Before the sheet metal was in place..with my dog enjoying the opening
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/Photo-0023.jpg

The sheet metal on and boxed in with a million tack welds that barely penetrated.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5174.jpg

Gap in the floor where it recedes I need to fill in..any suggestions? About 5/16"
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5175.jpg

And look at the new extension cord in comparison with the one I've BEEN using at my house..If this doesn't fix the issue it's either the welder or the house wiring.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5178.jpg

Tinkerjeep

03-19-2009, 05:20 PM

March 19, 2009
Gap in the floor where it recedes I need to fill in..any suggestions? About 5/16"

Um...bondo? :D no.
uh...silicone? :) no.
hm...foil tape? :( no.
cutting out small pieces of sheet to fit the valleys and bending 90 degree "feet" at the bottom and sides so you have 1/2" tabs which can be lap-welded to the bottom and sides of the floorboard valleys? :thumbsup: YES!
BTW, that is a NICE macro shot of the gap. What camera are you using?

youngjeeper

03-19-2009, 05:38 PM

Um...bondo? :D no.
uh...silicone? :) no.
hm...foil tape? :( no.
cutting out small pieces of sheet to fit the valleys and bending 90 degree "feet" at the bottom and sides so you have 1/2" tabs which can be lap-welded to the bottom and sides of the floorboard valleys? :thumbsup: YES!
BTW, that is a NICE macro shot of the gap. What camera are you using?
I like that idea..I was hoping for an easier solution though..Like some kind of goop. It doesn't need to be structural.. it's already very secure, and I will be painting over everything with bedliner paint which will harden and protect anyhow. I've been scoping some epoxy type things and liquid nails.

Oh, and the camera..nothing special, Nikon Coolpix L4. It has seen better days, duct tape keeps it together.

Tinkerjeep

03-19-2009, 07:19 PM

I like that idea..I was hoping for an easier solution though..Like some kind of goop. It doesn't need to be structural.. it's already very secure, and I will be painting over everything with bedliner paint which will harden and protect anyhow. I've been scoping some epoxy type things and liquid nails.

Oh, and the camera..nothing special, Nikon Coolpix L4. It has seen better days, duct tape keeps it together.

RE: filler panels -you could just subsitute my last option for my second option then.

Re: camera -Ain't duct tape great? Hey -we might have a fifth option!:thumbsup:

Tad

03-19-2009, 07:46 PM

Tack in some filler material and use auto grade sandable seam sealer if you want that pro look.
I'd say 30% of my non structural areas are just caulked, still holding fine after 3 years.
I know it's not the perfect/technical solution but mines never going to be a beauty queen, never was to start with.

jeepdreamer

03-19-2009, 07:58 PM

Well,
try tightening it till it breaks off then back off a turn?:confused: I cut it off twice and its Still too short!?!:eek:
Do N good... keep "hackN" away at it...:thumbsup:

Billygoat

03-20-2009, 07:14 AM

If you are using a urethane bed coating, use a urethane paintable caulk to goo some filler rod in place. I would not use just a culk on that large a gap, but with some kind of backer it should be fine.

BTW - AWSOME build!!, gives me ideas!

youngjeeper

04-23-2009, 11:49 AM

Been busy with Finals coming up but managed to get a little work done recently..

Found some a rust gap under the carpet, and some seam breaks at the tire well and floor. Treated all that junk and fiberglassed it up. I also cut out the patches I'll need to finish filling in the larger gaps. I made some new side panels for the rear out of sheet metal, any suggestions on how to make them easily removable?

I also bought some seam sealer, and some adhesive type sealant too for a few places.

I've got finals next week, so following that I will really start crunching down on this thing.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5241.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5237.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5242.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5236.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5234.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5238.jpg

L98Waggy

04-23-2009, 02:51 PM

Lookin great man! As for the easy panel removal,I made a underfloor battery cover out of sheetmetal for a street rod I built a few years ago and used those plastic two piece panel stud/clips like are used on plastic bumpers/trim etc almost like the plastic pins on the grilles on some SJs. Just put angle iron behind it and drilled hole in both pieces and pushed em in. I would add some foam tape to avoid extra rattles though.

Dmntxn77

04-23-2009, 03:44 PM

I made some new side panels for the rear out of sheet metal, any suggestions on how to make them easily removable?

Dzus fasteners will be the best way to go...

youngjeeper

04-24-2009, 10:38 AM

Dzus fasteners will be the best way to go...

Those things get pretty pricey once you look at having to buy the fastener, spring, and clip/bracket. Exactly the type of thing I was looking for though..Will look into similar lower priced options! Thanks :drivin:

L98Waggy

04-24-2009, 01:18 PM

Just sittin around in the shop havin a beer with a buddy talkin about this site and the panel issue you were having and he blurted out "velcro" Idea!! Maybe? I love Beerstorming!!

Billygoat

04-24-2009, 01:25 PM

Are you looking for removal of fast removal?
If just removal, weld some tabs in with nuts and use a thumb screw.
Not fancy, but easy and cheap.
Or studs with wingnuts.

krek

04-24-2009, 02:24 PM

youngjeeper

04-25-2009, 09:59 AM

The trick to using Dzuz fasteners is using as few as possible to secure the panel. I'd use a channel at the top and a single Dzuz at the bottom if quick and easy access is the plan.

If cheap is the plan I'd use a self tapping screw at each corner and keep a nut driver in the glovebox.

Yeah, cheap is the plan right now. Not enough storage space in those panels to drop $40 on stuff to make them removable. I like your idea of the channel on top and a single Dzuz at the bottom! That doesn't seem too pricey, and will be fast for removal too! Thanks!

youngjeeper

04-25-2009, 10:01 AM

Just sittin around in the shop havin a beer with a buddy talkin about this site and the panel issue you were having and he blurted out "velcro" Idea!! Maybe? I love Beerstorming!!

You know..that's a pretty good idea. I'll have to look into some heavy duty velcro..the only thing I'd be worried about is if it would actually grip well enough. And BTW, I agree beerstorming is good stuff, unless you happen to have a sawzall in hand at the same time. :thumbsup:

lkmarsh

04-25-2009, 10:29 AM

I made some new side panels for the rear out of sheet metal, any suggestions on how to make them easily removable?

One option is Quick Threads, they install like rivets, I used them to attach door panels, door lock motors, etc. Or speed nuts. Or Duct tape!

elbastardo

04-26-2009, 06:44 AM

couldnt you use a standard "lows" hinge at the bottom? And latch it at the top?

Very nice work:thumbsup: Even the dog looks like he approves:D

youngjeeper

04-26-2009, 10:25 AM

couldnt you use a standard "lows" hinge at the bottom? And latch it at the top?

Very nice work:thumbsup: Even the dog looks like he approves:D

Thanks!

I was thinking hinges at first..but I will have my tire and storage box back there, so the panels wouldn't have enough room to open up.

Carleysjeep

04-26-2009, 12:44 PM

And BTW, I agree beerstorming is good stuff, unless you happen to have a sawzall in hand at the same time. :thumbsup:

:eek: Thats funny I don't care who you are!

BigOlWoody

04-28-2009, 12:19 AM

youngjeeper

04-28-2009, 10:47 AM

I am envious of this entire project. My friends claim I can do anything with a car but I dont think I would have the balls to dig into something this intense. Major props to you. Also, my neighbors would have me jailed for parking that project anywhere near my house. They already complain about my cj5 and the mud it tracks in. Maybe one day when I have the time and money I will attempt this until my future wife threatens to leave me. Don't give up on it and keep posting pictures so I can live vicariously through you.

Haha I'd give this project up in a second if I found another decent full body to swap on and the City wouldn't come fine me. Working under 90 degree Florida sun inside a black Jeep at a house that has outdated wiring and no outdoor sockets..Yeah, I run a cord out the living room window. On full power, my MIG will barely weld sheetmetal, because of the outdated wiring, which makes for some NASTY looking welds..and who knows what will happen when I go to smooth them out, prolly just chip right off! Still trying to have it complete by June. Nice thing about being so close to the University is that it's all College people in my neighborhood, don't have to worry about the neighbors not liking it. I guess the downside to that is I can't work on it right now --Finals week. Anyhow, appreciate the comments.

L98Waggy

04-28-2009, 11:01 AM

"Nice thing about being so close to the University is that it's all College people in my neighborhood, don't have to worry about the neighbors not liking it. I guess the downside to that is I can't work on it right now"

I know what you mean! I lived in Tally off of west Tennesse and Dixie Dr. for awhile and neighbors never said a word about my junk sittin around.

youngjeeper

05-24-2009, 09:41 AM

Well this project that I figured would take 2 maybe 3 months is really going slow ;). Spring semester I strayed away a good bit and focused on school so I could raise by GPA in hopes of getting into the Entrepreneurship program. Studyed my butt off every night, never left my desk..but I ended up pulling off a 4.0! So in the end school is more important then the Jeep.

Moving forward very slowly..It's been raining non-stop, and will continue to for at least the next 10 days according to the forecast so progress has come to a slow-down. Everything is patched up except two upper patches and are going to take creativity because of bent of metal. I grinded down most of the welds so I'm just waiting for a 72 hour period of no rain so I can get the seam sealer and body filler laid out and sanded down and then the bedliner paint put in. Although yesterday It was sunny when I got off work, so I started a little bondo work and then of course the clouds roll in humidity rises and I had to do a half-*** job so I could prime it before the rain came. Now I have to go back and re-apply a then layer on top. I would of liked to have time to take off the tailgate and build a little something along with tire carrier, but definetly not enough time if I want to make the ECI which is starting to look like a no go in this Jeep anyhow!

I also went ahead and ordered the hydraulic ram for the hydro assist, ended up with this one.. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009052410381320&item=9-4410-08&catname=hydraulic. My dad had a spare box at his house that he tapped for me and put in all the fittings. Which is great since my current box leaks about 1/2 quart of fluid a week..just sitting still. If all gets done on my part I will be meeting my dad half way on June 6 with a trailer to get the Jeep up to his house for ECI the following weekend. Don't want to risk driving this thing all the way up to ECI, and then hoping not to break anything so I can drive back down and be at class on Monday.

No new pictures..just haven't been able to get enough done. and BTW the rear seat does not lock back anymore..I guess when I welded in the cab piece it moved forward a bit or something. Guess I will be added some heavy washers on the seat mounts to move it forward just an 1/8".

I'll snap a pic in a bit of one area I could use some suggestion on as far as body work.

ROK360

05-30-2009, 07:45 AM

youngjeeper

05-30-2009, 10:17 AM

Mate - great job on the dual cab. I can say reading this thread was a great experience, this is the sort of thing I would like to do. However it took a lot of nerve for me to cut the guards so that I can get 33's on my wagon. Mind you there are a lot of my friends asking why I am persisting with such an old truck.

All the best and I shall certainly come back to see the finished product.

Cheers

Thanks for the compliment! I don't suggest going through the hassle unless you get into a situation where it HAS to be chopped. My back roof was caved in, so I didn't have a choice. However, if you were to chop one with a straight roof/pillars, it would most definitely be easier. Most of my errors and :banghead: are due to the body being off in every which way from when it was put on it's side. I took the next week off work to try and get everything wrapped up (for the most part). Hopefully the rain doesn't come back! Ran out of welding gas yesterday so not much work will get done until Monday when Airgas is open. Have a good one!

cself

05-31-2009, 06:41 AM

Haha I'd give this project up in a second if I found another decent full body to swap on and the City wouldn't come fine me.

Hey Dan...if your in need a a body for a trail rig we should talk. My parts rig has the complete body less a hood. Has some rust in the front fenders and rear quarters but I have a feeling you could fix that. Let me know if you and your dad want to swing by while your in town.

youngjeeper

05-31-2009, 07:15 AM

Hey Dan...if your in need a a body for a trail rig we should talk. My parts rig has the complete body less a hood. Has some rust in the front fenders and rear quarters but I have a feeling you could fix that. Let me know if you and your dad want to swing by while your in town.

Hey I appreciate that, but the problem is I can't have parts laying around my house down here. The city ordinance truck comes around about once a week and they always slow down near my house. If you're in violation, there is no warning..it's just $250/day until the violation is corrected. :eek: I think at this time since I already have about ~$500 into the work I'll keep on going with it. Although, most of that money is from tools and stuff.

cself

05-31-2009, 07:49 AM

Hey I appreciate that, but the problem is I can't have parts laying around my house down here. The city ordinance truck comes around about once a week and they always slow down near my house. If you're in violation, there is no warning..it's just $250/day until the violation is corrected. :eek: I think at this time since I already have about ~$500 into the work I'll keep on going with it. Although, most of that money is from tools and stuff.

Yeah...I get the city ordinance thing. That's why I moved where I am now. Also understand the need to see the project through with that kind of money invested. Still, if you tip it again and need a body, I thought you might be able to keep it at your dad's place and we could all get together to do a body swap at some point down the line. I'll have it for a good while longer while I strip down everything else, but before sending the body to the crusher I'll try to find a home for it.

youngjeeper

05-31-2009, 11:12 AM

Still, if you tip it again and need a body

If it goes over again and ruins what I just did...oh man, It won't be getting a whole body, It will see a Sawzall big time.

Speaking of tools and money invested..So I took off this week of work to work on the Jeep in hopes of making it to the ECI. First, Run out of welding gas Friday evening, Air Gas isn't open till Monday. I did some weld grinding, body filler work, and fiberglass work yesterday and this morning. Now, I go to clean off some paint with my angle grinder and NOTHING. Angle grinder #2 RIP. OK, so I'll do it the slower way, 60 grit sandpaper on the sander. What happens now? Sander RIP. Alright, Hand drill and wire cup brush, Drill chuck is stuck somehow. So since 10am I've been using a block sander to sand all of the bondo, fiberglass, and paint in 90 degree sun. Could this be some sort of sign?? :o

HD_JEEP

05-31-2009, 06:19 PM

I can't wait to see the updated pics on this project...:eek:

youngjeeper

06-01-2009, 07:28 PM

I can't wait to see the updated pics on this project...:eek:

Grey stuff is the seam sealer. All holes are sealed off, just have to grind the welds on one more patch and sand a little fiberglass patch. I put seam sealer inside and outside on every seam and over every weld. Tomorrow I will finish off the patches, seam seal that area, then sand all the seam sealer from today. If I get all that done and the forecast is good, I will roll on the herculiner in the bed and spray on the final paint.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5284.jpg

Inside
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5289.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5290.jpg

The false window
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5292.jpg

Where the rear pillars used to be, smooth now. The first side I did was in the beginning before I learned some body work tricks, like not to fill in large holes with bondo :rolleyes:. I re-did that side.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5286.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5285.jpg

Full Jeep shots
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5293.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5294.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/DSCN5295.jpg

:drivin:

misfittom138

06-01-2009, 08:41 PM

:thumbsup: Nice work. It's really coming along.

Billygoat

06-02-2009, 10:08 AM

:thumbsup: I like it. - a lot.

youngjeeper

06-02-2009, 01:04 PM

Well........:o

I guess I should have done more research on this seam sealer before I applied it everywhere. It said on the tube "sandable when fully cured." I guess I just assumed you could slap it on and then sand it how you like after it dries, sort of like body filler. I tried sanding some today and was wondering why it wasn't working so well. I called bondo/3M...it's not sandable.

Should be fun removing all of this nasty stuff. :banghead:

:thumbsdown:

El_Diablo

06-02-2009, 01:46 PM

best way is with a torch and a mix of screw drivers, chisels and putty knifes (metal)

jeepdreamer

06-02-2009, 04:32 PM

Man, That sux with the seam sealer! UGH! Chalk it up to one more lesson learned the hard (or in the sealers case, never hard!) way!!:D Your doing great though... just keep plugging along and you'll have it!
I saw the recient picts and its cool! Maybe bend some tube up to form a lil custom "headache" rack? Carry it over and around the back and you'll have a place to tie stuff down.?.:thumbsup:

youngjeeper

06-19-2009, 02:12 PM

Well guys, for the most part, it is all done! I still have some more body filler and paint work to do to "even" things out a bit and make it look "pretty", but besides that it's completely sealed, bed liner paint is in, window is in, etc. I do plan on modifying the tailgate and finishing the side panels at a later time. Also, sometime this summer, a full cage will be installed. Here are a few pics:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/reardone.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/rear2.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/fullshot.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/pike87/Wag%20Build/fullshot2.jpg

Thanks for the help and encouragement along the way!

:drivin:

El Jefe

06-20-2009, 07:40 PM

Dan that looks great!

blt2krl

06-20-2009, 09:09 PM

Nice job, turned out great..

HD_JEEP

06-23-2009, 09:52 AM

That is simply :eek: AWESOME :eek: work you have done. Thanks for sharing..

dajeeps

06-23-2009, 10:04 AM

you beat me to the finish:D ,looks real good.

2003 mcs

06-23-2009, 11:45 AM

I didn't think you would pull off such a nice vehicle. I say that because of the tools used and the vehicle's condition when you started. Wow:) very nice, I'm going to say it again-WOW. You should and have every reason to be proud of your work and of that truck:thumbsup:

misfittom138

06-25-2009, 11:07 AM

Looks great! :thumbsup:

JeepNOFEAR

06-25-2009, 12:10 PM

Nice work!

midmichfsj

06-25-2009, 04:41 PM

that thing is awesome. very nice work.

ChuckWag

06-26-2009, 11:12 PM

Dan, that looks friggin awesome! I think you've got a design there that folks would want to do to their rigs even without having to roll them first!

Heck...if you want to come do the same thing to my rig, be my guest! (that is, you can come do a crewcab/choptop to it, NOT roll it! :o)

Chuckwag

Rocket Dog

06-27-2009, 03:49 PM

that is one bad a*** crew cab

ROK360

06-30-2009, 08:27 AM

I said it before and I will say it again - your work is an absolute credit to yourself.
Great stuff Dan, now howsabout you come to Oz and spend a few days on mine.

Enjoy it buddy.

youngjeeper

07-07-2009, 11:34 AM

Thanks for the compliments guys..It sure has come a long way and it feels nice to have it *almost* finished. I did not expect it to turn out as well as it did with all the problems I was facing. The new look is really growing on me, and the "truck bed" in the back is real convenient.

:fsj:

For anyone interested in doing this..It should be MUCH easier if your Jeep is not all bent up like mine was. All the damage from the flop was the biggest obstacle to overcome with the fitment of the J-Cab piece.

Tejasol

07-14-2009, 07:22 PM

Dan, that is awesome. That has come a long way since I saw it in my driveway. Wow, great job!

grand_wag_85

07-20-2009, 12:59 PM

That looks killer

Eugene 1

07-28-2009, 12:34 PM

Very Nice ! you should be proud:thumbsup:

TINMAN93

07-28-2009, 09:30 PM

Hey Andrew,

No worries. You've got a good plan and just need to keep the prise in sight. I took a year thinking about and planning before cutting 13" off my Waggy to make BoB and still had things to deal with I didn't know about until I started cutting. There are always things you can't plan for. Just step back and focus on the end game and things will be fine. You've got a good looking project. As far as the quarters go. I made a cardboard pattern of the front wheel well opening and copied it to the rear. it cut quite a bit away from the rear wheel lip. Most of the rust will probably go. I then took some 3/8" rod and used it to bridge the gap between the outer and inner sheet metal. It works great while reinforcing the lip and giving it a nice round edge that's very durable. Here's a pic of the quarter:

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv198/TinmansSJ/RearQuarterPic.jpg

Tinman