View Full Version : Window tint
grand_wag_85
11-10-2008, 11:59 PM
Anyone here ever try the DIY window tint stuff they sell at parts stores? I've never tinted or had anything tinted other than factory stuff and want to get the glass on the Waggy dark. I've been told if ya do it right the tint will last, is that about right or should I just have a pro do it?
pineymike
11-11-2008, 06:00 AM
It's about money,like everything else if you can afford it let someone do it,That said I did the long side windows on my cherokee oneside turned out real good the other not so good{looks good from 20ft}I had to work around a rollbar,I think if I did one a day it would have been better?
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
11-11-2008, 06:04 AM
HEY!! THAT CHROME GUY KNOWSALL ABOUT THAT STUFF :rolleyes: ME THINKS!:confused: HE BE GOING OUT THAT/A/WAY >> HUNTING!!...MAYBEE HE'LL MAKE A HOUSE CALL! :drivin: :D :D :)
710 Burner
11-11-2008, 06:26 AM
I have done it. Probably will do it again. I prefer to let someone else do it.
That being said, if you have windows that are held in by a "pliable" seal, they can be popped out and tinted, then carefully replaced. (of course, if the seal is 30 or so years old, its not going to be pliable) I have also taken windows out of doors and tinted them to get it all the way to the edge. A pro can do it without removing them.
frank_c
11-11-2008, 06:35 AM
i tinted the windows on my Wrangler hardtop. doesn't look too bad. i only have to live with it for the winter though.
Chevelleguy
11-11-2008, 07:05 AM
The problem with the parts store tint is that after several years it starts to turn purple.
chuckchili
11-11-2008, 07:46 AM
Grand Wag- I have a guy that I have used several times. He used to do it professionally but now does it on the side in his garage. He does a good job, is cheap, uses the best tint available and you can go as dark as you want. Usually charges $25 a window. He is in the Denver area and I don't know how often you make it up here but if you're ever in town, let me know and I'll hook it up for ya. :thumbsup:
Brizio
11-11-2008, 08:23 AM
I will do it, when I have some extra money...
They ask me 250$ for all the windows...
Chrome
11-11-2008, 01:30 PM
HEY!! THAT CHROME GUY KNOWSALL ABOUT THAT STUFF :rolleyes: ME THINKS!:confused: HE BE GOING OUT THAT/A/WAY >> HUNTING!!...MAYBEE HE'LL MAKE A HOUSE CALL! :drivin: :D :D :)
Got back last Thursday. If you want to try it yourself then stay way from the parts store tint. The stuff is total crap. You can buy tint from most anyone in the window tinting business. I've used Solar Gard for 26 years and swear by the stuff. 3M and Llumar make good film as well.
All you need is a spray bottle with about a teaspoonful of Joy dishwashing liquid mixed in, a small box cutter style knife with a Ofla blade (preferablly the one with a solid plastic handle since the metal handle type tend to hang the tint), a rubber squeegee, and a hard card like a 3x3 bondo spreader, and a single edge scrapper.
Spray the inside window with the soapy water and scrape the entire surface. Wipe all excess water from the inside with the rubber squeegee. Now spray the outside of the glass with soapy water and position the film so that all edges are covered. If you are doing a glass that rolls down be sure to drop the bottom edge of the film down so that you will have a little extra to slide below the seal once you install the film to the inside of the glass.
The main thing to remember is take time to look at the glass and take into consideration how the film will look when it is finished. You want to be sure to cut the film so that all edges are covered and no gaps are visible. On the side edges of the glass you only need about a 1/16th of an inch excess to close the gap. Cut one side then slide the tint over enough so that when you cut the opposite side you have the extra on both sides.
You can take masking tape and use two small pieces on opposite sides of the film to seperate the tint from the liner. Also, make sure that before you start cutting that the liner is facing out other wise you have cut the piece for the opposite side of the vehicle.
Slowly spray the tint as you pull the liner from it. Do not pull away from the vehicle because the tint will turn loose from the glass. Instead pull either toward the front of the rear of the vehicle insuring that the film stays in place while you remove the liner. Now soak the tint and the inside of the glass plus if the glass rolls down pull the inner seal back so that the water covers the area below the seal. On glasses that roll down start with a lower corner and work the tint behind the seal. If you gently push out on the glass and use the hard card the tint will almost fall into place. Once you have the tint below the seal you can line it up on all edges then use the squeegee to lock it into place. Be sure to leave a small gap at the top so that the seal does not wrinkle the film when the glass is rolled up.
If you have any questions send me a PM and I'll be glad to answer any questions.
grand_wag_85
11-11-2008, 01:44 PM
Thanks guys!
Chuckchili-I just might take you up on that.
The PIG Smith
11-11-2008, 05:43 PM
Got back last Thursday. If you want to try it yourself then stay way from the parts store tint. The stuff is total crap. You can buy tint from most anyone in the window tinting business. I've used Solar Gard for 26 years and swear by the stuff. 3M and Llumar make good film as well.
All you need is a spray bottle with about a teaspoonful of Joy dishwashing liquid mixed in, a small box cutter style knife with a Ofla blade (preferablly the one with a solid plastic handle since the metal handle type tend to hang the tint), a rubber squeegee, and a hard card like a 3x3 bondo spreader, and a single edge scrapper.
Spray the inside window with the soapy water and scrape the entire surface. Wipe all excess water from the inside with the rubber squeegee. Now spray the outside of the glass with soapy water and position the film so that all edges are covered. If you are doing a glass that rolls down be sure to drop the bottom edge of the film down so that you will have a little extra to slide below the seal once you install the film to the inside of the glass.
The main thing to remember is take time to look at the glass and take into consideration how the film will look when it is finished. You want to be sure to cut the film so that all edges are covered and no gaps are visible. On the side edges of the glass you only need about a 1/16th of an inch excess to close the gap. Cut one side then slide the tint over enough so that when you cut the opposite side you have the extra on both sides.
You can take masking tape and use two small pieces on opposite sides of the film to seperate the tint from the liner. Also, make sure that before you start cutting that the liner is facing out other wise you have cut the piece for the opposite side of the vehicle.
Slowly spray the tint as you pull the liner from it. Do not pull away from the vehicle because the tint will turn loose from the glass. Instead pull either toward the front of the rear of the vehicle insuring that the film stays in place while you remove the liner. Now soak the tint and the inside of the glass plus if the glass rolls down pull the inner seal back so that the water covers the area below the seal. On glasses that roll down start with a lower corner and work the tint behind the seal. If you gently push out on the glass and use the hard card the tint will almost fall into place. Once you have the tint below the seal you can line it up on all edges then use the squeegee to lock it into place. Be sure to leave a small gap at the top so that the seal does not wrinkle the film when the glass is rolled up.
If you have any questions send me a PM and I'll be glad to answer any questions.
Hey! You talk like you've done this once or twice before!
Chrome
11-11-2008, 08:24 PM
Hey! You talk like you've done this once or twice before!
It pays for my FSJ addicition. :D
shackwrrr
11-11-2008, 08:29 PM
I took a class on it here at college, Accessory trends thats a great way to do it I did iit on the jeep and it turned out great. remember to use only non amonia windex thats what makes it go purple. chrome you probably explained it a little better than I could
jamsni
11-11-2008, 08:31 PM
Spray the inside window with the soapy water and scrape the entire surface. Wipe all excess water from the inside with the rubber squeegee. Now spray the outside of the glass with soapy water and position the film so that all edges are covered.
Is this a typo? Why would you spray the outside glass? Just askin' for clarity of instruction. :)
Chrome
11-11-2008, 08:36 PM
Is this a typo? Why would you spray the outside glass? Just askin' for clarity of instruction. :)
I cut the tint from the outside since it is a flatter surface plus it keeps from soaking the interior panel. The water keeps the tint in place while I make my cut. Try taking a piece of tint and put it on the glass without water before you start your cut. You will quickly see that soapy water is your friend. ;)
jamsni
11-11-2008, 08:40 PM
I cut the tint from the outside since it is a flatter surface plus it keeps from soaking the interior panel. The water keeps the tint in place while I make my cut. Try taking a piece of tint and put it on the glass without water before you start your cut. You will quickly see that soapy water is your friend. ;)
Thanks for the tip. It makes more sense now. :thumbsup:
Chrome
11-11-2008, 08:40 PM
remember to use only non amonia windex thats what makes it go purple. chrome you probably explained it a little better than I could
Forgot to add the part about the amonia. :o Just goes to show if we put all our minds together we would be unstopable. :thumbsup:
TPICherokee
11-11-2008, 09:13 PM
Just to throw this in there, we will have glass available for 79-91 FSJ's next month sometime and the company that we are buying from can do tinted glass, it wouldn't be tinted on the inside or outside of the windows but in the middle. I don't know the cost yet, but just thought I would let everyone know that it is coming soon...
Thanks.
Dr Teeth
11-11-2008, 09:34 PM
Slowly spray the tint as you pull the liner from it.... Now soak the tint and the inside of the glass plus if the glass rolls down pull the inner seal back so that the water covers the area below the seal.
This is all done with the soapy water correct?
Is there any adhesive to the tint or is it just held in by the film of soapy water?
Any good online sources for the tint you prefer?
You make it sound dangerously easy.... I may curse your name when I give it a try in a few months!
Thanks for the great post (archive?)
Todd
Dirtball
11-12-2008, 08:29 AM
Scott,
Isn't it true that the most important thing is to have the inner surface SPOTLESS before you apply the tint to it? You mentioned scraping the window but didn't really emphasize how clean it needs to be. Seems that I remember an unclean surface being the biggest reason tint jobs fail (well, that and air bubbles... LOL).
FSJ Guy
11-12-2008, 08:50 AM
Just to throw this in there, we will have glass available for 79-91 FSJ's next month sometime and the company that we are buying from can do tinted glass, it wouldn't be tinted on the inside or outside of the windows but in the middle. I don't know the cost yet, but just thought I would let everyone know that it is coming soon...
Thanks.
I don't have any $$ to buy the stuff I ALREADY want, and now you go and offer MORE stuff I want.
What's wrong with you guys??? :p
Seriously, I would love to have "OEM" tinted glass that won't scratch when I roll the windows down.
yankeedog
11-12-2008, 09:10 AM
it doesnt work well if you put it over those filament type rear window defrosters. tends to buuble up.
grand_wag_85
11-12-2008, 11:32 AM
My waggy has what's left of factory window tint, do I need to remove it? It doesn't look like film or anything like that.
Dirtball
11-12-2008, 11:58 AM
I would remove everything I could possibly remove so that I have the cleanest glass surface possible. If you put tint over tint it will be darker where the old tint was left...
All of the glass is out of the SuperChief for paint.
I was just quoted $200 to tint all of the windows (4 doors, 2 vents, 2 quarters and tailgate) in 35% (front) and 5% (rest).
This was cheaper than I was expecting... is that the going rate? I know the owner of the business and have seen examples of their quality work.
grand_wag_85
12-03-2008, 11:59 AM
Krek-
I've been quoted $350 for the entire truck in 5%. Definately take pictures.
I wonder if it is cheaper because the glass is out.
I gave them the OK on it, they are even picking up the glass from the body shop, tinting it, and then returning it.
I'll add pictures to the build thread, hopefully this weekend.
SCJ10
12-03-2008, 06:09 PM
Krek,
I would say that is why it is a low price. Way easier to tint with windows out.
Chrome
12-03-2008, 06:57 PM
This is all done with the soapy water correct?
Is there any adhesive to the tint or is it just held in by the film of soapy water?
Any good online sources for the tint you prefer?
You make it sound dangerously easy.... I may curse your name when I give it a try in a few months!
Thanks for the great post (archive?)
Todd
Sorry for the delay in response I lost track of the thread.
Yep about a teaspoonful of Joy dishwashing liquid to a quart of water.
The film comes with adhesive on it. Just make sure you hands are clean before removing the liner and only touch the extreme outer corners of the film.
You can find SolarGard film on Ebay. Also, check your local tint shops to see what they carry. The "Supreme" line by SolarGard is what I use.
No problem about the cursing my name. My wife does it all the time. :D
Chrome
12-03-2008, 07:04 PM
Yep, the glass has got to be virtually spotless. No food, no dried soft drink, no boogers(amazing where kids put them), no smushed bugs, and no reminders of what you did in the back seat.
Scott,
Isn't it true that the most important thing is to have the inner surface SPOTLESS before you apply the tint to it? You mentioned scraping the window but didn't really emphasize how clean it needs to be. Seems that I remember an unclean surface being the biggest reason tint jobs fail (well, that and air bubbles... LOL).
Chrome
12-03-2008, 07:08 PM
it doesnt work well if you put it over those filament type rear window defrosters. tends to buuble up.
Must become one with the squegee. Wipe with the lines not across. You can allow tint to dry for about 3 days then gently rub your finger along the defrost line and remove most remaining air. Very important rub from the center outward.
Chrome
12-03-2008, 07:11 PM
My waggy has what's left of factory window tint, do I need to remove it? It doesn't look like film or anything like that.
Yep, you can use a steamer to remove tint from glass that has defroster. Once the tint is removed you can use lacquer thinner to remove any remaining glue. Just be sure to wipe the glass several times with soapy water to remove the thinner. You can always look at the edge of a glass and see if there is film on it. I've seen some cars that the film had faded so badly that it looked clear.
Chrome
12-03-2008, 07:14 PM
All of the glass is out of the SuperChief for paint.
I was just quoted $200 to tint all of the windows (4 doors, 2 vents, 2 quarters and tailgate) in 35% (front) and 5% (rest).
This was cheaper than I was expecting... is that the going rate? I know the owner of the business and have seen examples of their quality work.
If the glass is out of the Jeep I would do it for $100. It doesn't get any easier than that. FSJ's have flat glass so there are no fingers to deal with just cut, peel, and stick. You should try a door glass yourself and save the money to buy more Jeep parts. Just remember which is inside and also which is the bottom.
Dmntxn77
12-03-2008, 07:44 PM
I paid just under $200 to have my old suburban tinted all the way around.
So, no, that does not sound like an amazing deal. I would take Scotts advise and try it yourself. When I was in high school me and all my friends, with my moms help, tinted the windows on all of our trucks. They all came out lookin real nice! It would have been WAY easier if the glass was out of the trucks. Not to mention, I am sure that tint has come a long way in the last 15 (or so) years, so that should make it even easier...
The tint guy is my customer so we ended up bartering the $200 anyway. :)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/3085556342_ee90202623.jpg
The tops of the doors are being painted black on Monday to match the roof.
Dmntxn77
12-05-2008, 02:14 PM
Lookin good... :thumbsup:
I guess that orange/copper color is the "in" color right now. This makes 3 members that I know of with some shade of orange/copper paint...
starlifter
12-05-2008, 02:33 PM
Make sure you check your local laws (where the vechile is tagged). Most tint shops are up to speed on this but it could give "the man" a reason to pull you over. They have hand held meters that can check percentage on the spot.:eek:
I'm good on the percentages. We went 5% on all the rear windows (which is legal) and 20% on the front windows (which I have a prescription for). :)
AlsChopShop
12-05-2008, 03:08 PM
I'm good on the percentages. We went 5% on all the rear windows (which is legal) and 20% on the front windows (which I have a prescription for). :)lucky, oregon i think is 20% max and nothing next to or in front of the driver. boo!
Al
men in black
12-05-2008, 03:23 PM
I went with 5% on the passenger and backside windows
with 15% on the rear window. A black GW with tinted windows
looks very cooool ( I can post a photo)
I'm getting some scraping from the wipes, so I may try to
have a tint glass rear window made.
ncardiff
12-05-2008, 09:35 PM
doing tint yourself can have remarkable results with half the cost... just make sure you buy a quality to like "gila" from an advance store, clean your windows as best you can like as spotless as old glass can get, then the trick the pro's use is getting the glass warm it helps adhesion, use plenty of soapy water so you have time to work out the bubbles and use a heat gun to get it set once you have the bubbles out... its not bad on our flat glass surfaces just be patient... pro's earn their money doing the heavily convexed shapes found in cars of the modern era
Chrome
12-05-2008, 10:09 PM
Gila is crappy tint. It's cheap for a good reason. ;) Also, you do not want the glass warm when trying to apply the film because it will make the film stick before you get it into place. When we tint homes and commercial buildings we stay on a side away from the Sun for this very reason. Once you get the film in place you can use a heat gun but on flat glass, like all FSJs, there is no need for one.
Now for a glass that is curved, say for instance a back glass on a car, you can clean the glass then make sure it is completely dry. Once the glass is completely dry sprinkle a little baby powder on the glass and rub it around to make sure the entire glass is covered. This is best done with a cotton glove. Once the glass is preped with the powder lay your film across the glass making sure you cover all edges with a modest amount. Trim away any excess that hangs over the rubber seal or trim on the edge of the glass. Now take a paper towel or cloth and wet it with the soapy water. Make a straight line across the center of the glass from side to side. Then do the same on the left and right edge. This is what tinters call a "H" pattern. You only want enough water to make a streak on the glass and not run down the glass. Work all "Fingers" to the top and bottom so that none are on the side. Once this is done use the cotton glove with one hand and the heat gun on high with the other hand. Carefully go across each finger working from the inside tip of the finger to the outside. This will cause the film to heat shrink or "Snake". Once it snakes carefully rub from the inside out to the edge to smooth the finger away. This takes lots of patience and practice to master. This is called heat shrinking the film. Once this is done correctly the tint will fit the glass like a shell. The next step is learning Yoga so that you can pick up the film and get into the vehicle while holding film and not bumping the adhesive side of the film to anything. Work the film from the center outwards and squeegee it into quarter sections. This way it will be easier to work with. Another thing to remember is never ever apply heat to the left or right ends of the film. Only heat from the top or bottom. If needed you can heat the ends from the outside very carefully to remove those extra stubborn fingers.
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