T/C popping out of gear

[MonsterMash]

Now just a couple of weeks ago while I was returning from an off-road adventure and having taken my rig out of low and out of 4-wheel I was cruising down the highway and I thought my tranny went out. Transmission was in Drive but no power to the wheels and a wierd whirring sound. I pulled over and checked the fluid which was low and put about a pint in the tranny. Still couldn't get the rig to move. I then (after being P.O.'d for about 10 minutes) figured that maybe the flag lever was not fully engaged into high and sure enough I popped it into gear and drove home. So anyway, over the past couple of weeks my rig has started to pop out of gear more frequently especially when I'm not in 4 wheel. In 2 wheel it pops out and I have to put it into 4 wheel to drive. Now even in 4 wheel it pops out and back in sporadically but something like every 20 miles or so. It's a real girl-dog when I'm going 70 and it pops into neutral and back into drive. Is this a linkage problem where the T/C just isn't fully engaging into high (haven't noticed a problem in low) or an indication of low or bad fluid or worse??

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'84GW360--"Spinner"
Bigger tires and better stereo but pretty much stock
Most everything works some of the time!
1st Annual Jefferson FSJ Mud Run:

http://home.earthlink.net/~worthservices/index.html

[ap90c]

i would change the fluid in t/c and go from there it should run better i was told fluid should be changed every 15000mi and sitting
is worse because of condensation
getting ready to change my fluid

[Baker]

Mine did that. While I was turning left. http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/eek.gif (see sig)

[edit: Oops, forgot to check "show sig" http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/rolleyes.gif Here 'tis (http://3weasel.20m.com/jeepwreck.html)

[This message has been edited by Baker (edited January 15, 2001).]

[scotty]

hate to say it,but id start looking for a replacement.it has been awhile since i had one apart,but there is a gear in ther that engages a coupler in 2wd only a very small amount.as the pads on the mode fork start to wear,les and les contact is made,till it eventually starts chipping away and eating at the gear. you may be able to prolong its life by not using 2wheel anymore-drive it in 4wheel from now on. also when you change the xfer cse,check the fluid for funky,shiny,metallic substance mixed in. this is something any 229/219 owner needs to look for-it is actually the magic silicone fluid leaking out of a crack or hole in the viscuous coupling. once that happens its ot got long for the world.my frined got one more wheelin trip and some street driving after his fluid looked funky.

hope this helps...

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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

T18/dana-spicer 18 with drum E brake and PTO,and offset dana 44 swap very soon
BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
searching for jeep 4.0 six engine

now we can do some 'wheelin!

[MonsterMash]

Thanks Scotty, I was looking forward to your reply. (Still in denial and grasping at straws)- Is the any sort of exterior linkage adjustment on the 229? The flag lever seems pretty loose from the top. I'll change the fluid and check underneath tomorrow. Other than a 229 is there a T/C that bolts in place without drivetrain mods?

------------------
'84GW360--"Spinner"
Bigger tires and better stereo but pretty much stock
Most everything works some of the time!
1st Annual Jefferson FSJ Mud Run:

http://home.earthlink.net/~worthservices/index.html

[scotty]

i dont think there is any linkage adjustment for the 229.id just crawl under it and try and move the modeand range levers.if they do move further than what the linkage will push/pull them,maybe you do have a linkage prollem but i kinda doubt it. ive seen this exact scenario in quite a few 229s-it doesnt engage alot in the first place,and as the mode fork and pads wear,it just destroys it. a guy i get parts from just had the same thng happen to him.he actually had to hold the flag in hihg with his foot to get home.

prolly the best replacement is the 208,only mod is a longer rear driveshaft. other than that,the 219 is a direct replacement,will use stock shafts even.i wheeled one of these in my eagle and for awhile i the GW and didnt have trouble with it until the chain started slipping.i have confidence i could replace the chain and still wheel the crap out of it without too much worry. at least with the 219 you have a locked high range to limp home with a missing driveshaft(done it several times) and you dont have the goofy vaccum motor. the 219 for some reason isnt plagued with the same case breaking and internal prollems the 228/229 is. the only prollem is no 2wd,you got hilock,fulltime hi,neutral,lowlock.

at any rate,if you wheel it,id definately replace it with somthing other than a 228/229 if at all possible.



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

T18/dana-spicer 18 with drum E brake and PTO,and offset dana 44 swap very soon
BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
searching for jeep 4.0 six engine

now we can do some 'wheelin!

[MonsterMash]

There is indeed a linkage adjustment on my 229. Yahooo! There's even a (confusing) write-up in Chitlin's. I WD'd all the linkage and tried my best to adjust the turnbuckle type nut but it would barely budge and I was afraid of twisting/bending the linkage and damaging the vacuum diaphragm but I did work the linkage fore & aft a few time and took my rig for a 20 mile test drive in 2wd. It seems to be working fine now. I'll keep working on the linkage with lubricant and see if I can do a real adjustment. Too early to know for sure (my Wag pulls tricks on me by self-adjusting things to throw me off the track of the real problem) but I think I just had sticky linkage. http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif

------------------
'84GW360--"Spinner"
Bigger tires and better stereo but pretty much stock
Most everything works some of the time!
1st Annual Jefferson FSJ Mud Run:

http://home.earthlink.net/~worthservices/index.html

[archiele]

Advance Adapters may have a kit to install a Dana 300 TC into your rig. (moat Int Scout 2's came with the 300) They are a bullet proof all gear driven TC.
Oh yeah, their website is www.advanceadapters.com (http://www.advanceadapters.com)
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Currently a 1965 Wagoneer
bone stock.
also have an '88 Zuki

[This message has been edited by archiele (edited January 20, 2001).]

[scotty]

dont need a kit for a jeep dana 300.it bolts right to a 727.however,youll need at least 4 inches of suspension lift for the front driveshaft to clear the trannies oil pan. you will also need a front axle with a passenger side diff.

also,hardly any scouts came with a dana 300- only the 1980 models. all the rest came with a dana 20 or 18.

jeep 300s were used in cjs from 80 to 86 and are fairly common.

am very glad to hear your prollem looks to have had an easy fix http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif keep us posted on the outcome...

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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

T18/dana-spicer 18 with drum E brake and PTO,and offset dana 44 swap very soon
BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
searching for jeep 4.0 six engine

now we can do some 'wheelin!

[This message has been edited by scotty (edited January 20, 2001).]