a few 6.2 diesel swap questioons for the pro's

[neo]

Hi there guys, I have been off the list for a few months finishing up my garage and getting things in order to do the swap. Finally doing it now. Got the front off the gw and engine out (and listed on Craigs list, but if any needs it let me know) I bought the Novak SBC kit. Using a built 700R4 (beast, etc) and am starting to set it up. What I ahve found is:

I have to shift the engine off the Centerline (C/L) of the frame towards the D/S side by approximately 1" to clear the heater box (which I have destroyed taking it in and out so many times to set it up.) The rear tranny mount I end up overshooting by about 1". I will probably have to use an electric fan cause I can't see having enough room behind it for a mech unit, still don't have a radiator, will run external oil cooler. Had to disconnect my front track bar cause it is too close to the oil pan. Also had to disconnect my anti sway bar cause it will interfere with the front pulley.

So do these things sound normal?
1. Shift of 1" to D/S off c/l?
2. Rear mount has to be fabricated (using a 700r4 mount from a mid 80's blazer which bolts into the cast iron mount between tranny and x-fer case
3. Lose the track bar and the anti-sway? will the pan clear the axel itself? I am using the military oil pan currently, but may swap back to the civilian one.
4. Airbox issues? I will have to find another or patch this one - man is it brittle materail!
5. Electric fan for radiator?

I have read as many of Kenny-OhioJ20 and FSDiesel's posts and have not seen these particulars addressed. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I have a bunch of photos I have taken, but have NO idea how to make them show up. I had to retype this once cause I tried to paste the images and it blew this away. Any input on posting would be good to. Thanks to all!

[neo]

hate to bump this but I really need a bit of guidance please, anyone?

[budojeepr]

Well, I'll give it a shot, having just done one of these. Nice garage, by the way! :thumbsup:

First thing I noticed was >>link: what Mark told me (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showpost.php?p=769968&postcount=22): end link<< your engine looks like it's sitting fairly low in the frame. Wish I had a better pic of mine...but my driver's side valve cover is a lot closer to my master cylinder than yours. I don't have any track bar/sway bar clearance issues. Mark pointed out that the oil filter might hit the pinion housing on the front axle, too.
I have to shift the engine off the Centerline (C/L) of the frame towards the D/S side by approximately 1" to clear the heater box (which I have destroyed taking it in and out so many times to set it up.) Offsetting the engine to the side is very common, from what I read. One inch is nothing to worry about, IMO.
The rear tranny mount I end up overshooting by about 1". I will probably have to use an electric fan cause I can't see having enough room behind it for a mech unit, still don't have a radiator, will run external oil cooler. I mounted the engine as far back in the bay as I thought I could afford, and still had to move the radiator forward to be able to use the factory fan. I saw a thread here the other day where the builder installed a much wider radiator by cutting off the radiator supports on each side. Something I'm going to consider if my rig overheats.

See if you can find a pusher fan from a Mercedes in the junkyard. I got one that fits great behind the rhino grille. However, I won't be able to use an A/C condenser...

The transmission/transfer case mount worked out perfectly for me with the Novak adapter. I might have been able to move the whole thing back another inch in the bay, but it would not have been worth the work for me.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z176/budojeepr/Diesel%20Wagoneer/08_tcase_01.jpg

Good idea to run an oil cooler...the bigger the better.
Had to disconnect my front track bar cause it is too close to the oil pan. Also had to disconnect my anti sway bar cause it will interfere with the front pulley. See above...see if you can move the engine up a bit in the frame.

So do these things sound normal?
1. Shift of 1" to D/S off c/l?
2. Rear mount has to be fabricated (using a 700r4 mount from a mid 80's blazer which bolts into the cast iron mount between tranny and x-fer case
3. Lose the track bar and the anti-sway? will the pan clear the axel itself? I am using the military oil pan currently, but may swap back to the civilian one.
4. Airbox issues? I will have to find another or patch this one - man is it brittle materail!
5. Electric fan for radiator? Umm, airbox...since I put a turbo on my N/A diesel, I bought a big ol' PVC elbow at Ace Hardware, a cone-type air filter at AutoZone, and a hose-clampy thingy at Ace.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z176/budojeepr/Diesel%20Wagoneer/106_3727b.jpg
I have read as many of Kenny-OhioJ20 and FSDiesel's posts and have not seen these particulars addressed. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
...
I have a bunch of photos I have taken, but have NO idea how to make them show up. I use Photobucket.com, and place direct links in these posts using the "insert image" button in the post editor.

Good luck...keep pluggin' away!

[The PIG Smith]

...and a hose-clampy thingy at Ace.

HAHAHAHA...got a part number for that??

[neo]

Thank you very much budojeepr! I really appreciate the guidance. Yea, the shop is awesome. It is really my dad's place, but I have encroached all my stuff in there. I have at least three project vehicles all going at the same basic time. Very fortunate he is so incredibly cool about it all. He is also great for helping (watching) as I work! I think it is cheap entertainment for him - ridiculing me and all.
I will check on raising the engine tomorrow. Ended up training the 360 for a couple older 6.2's so now I have back-up in case I mess anything up too much.
Soo, if you don't have any clearance issues with your sway bar, is there any way you could take a picture from underneath so I could see how close it is to the crank pulley? I think (IIRC) I dropped it so low cause I was crushing into the brake booster with the d/s valve cover. Now the booster is gone, that should not be an issue any longer. Gonna do the hydroboost like you have done.
Since you are running the turbo, our exhaust will be different. The air-box I crushed is the one for the heater core. Did you just eliminate heat, or do you have another plan? My is pretty beat up.
I REALLY hope mine comes out half as nice as yours is. How do you like drivign it? I can't wait. I put most of my cash in the machine work on the engine and tranny parts and ahve my fingers crossed. THanks again for the guidance. I will post more photos when I get some this weekend - if I can work on it - I have been pretty sick for the past week and a half.
I think the tide is turning!

[budojeepr]

I'll take a picture from below. Be forewarned that the rig's now incredibly oily. I had the turbo off the other night, fixing wiring and tightening valve covers, etc. When I started it for a test drive, I found out really quickly that I'd not tightened the oil line to the turbo. I'm still cleaning the fenderwells, wiring, exhaust, and the garage floor. Sigh.

While I had the turbo off, I played with the wastegate. Turns out I'd been driving all this time with it wide-open, basically no boost at all. So, this time when I installed it I did it right. Amazing, the difference. This thing is MUCH more fun to drive than it used to be! Worth every penny, every hour spent.

I took the heat completely out. I read recently on a post here that somebody had modified his heater core with new sheetmetal that allows him to put it closer to the firewall. I'm going to look into that. Otherwise, I'll look into Vintage Air (http://www.vintageair.com/), or Summit Racing's Hot Rod Air (http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+400694&D=400694) listings. AFTER Christmas...

[neo]

The pic's would be great. You have an excellent build. I can only hope mine is half as good. Got the mount welded in (finally - after moving them up per your advice) this weekend. I believe my height is good now, the anti-sway will clear with about 1/2" max. The engine apears to sit more appropriately. Hope to set it in this weekend - barring any other family comitments. Thanks again for the great advice!
Neo