is a lift and converting to disc brakes as hard as it sounds?

[grimjeeper73]

i got a 73 j 4000 5 lug and it has no turning radius and no stopping power down hill after awhile also none just out of water iv been talking to friends of converting to disc but they say its to hard and will cost a lot just wondering if anyone on here has done it also the lift looks to be a bit a of a bear so is it worth my time or should i leave it stock height? thanks

[chuckchili]

My lift is different from yours of course but I have limited knowledge, learning as I go, and I didn't think it was hard. I actually enjoyed the process and was very happy with the results. If you choose to order through BJ's Offroad, you'll find they are quick to help out in any way they can. As far as the disc conversion goes, I have not done that but I have read here that it is fairly inexpensive. PS: the wide turning radius is something that you'll have to learn to live with these trucks I think. Good luck with your truck. :thumbsup:

[DrveJeepDrnkBeer]

LIFT IT! :thumbsup: I don't think it should be all that hard to do. Just leaf springs. If you want to do a hard lift, look at what you need to do for newer IFS trucks, now that looks hard!

[KJ Ryu]

LIFT IT! :thumbsup: I don't think it should be all that hard to do. Just leaf springs. If you want to do a hard lift, look at what you need to do for newer IFS trucks, now that looks hard!

Yeah, like a TTB Ford or a Jeep KJ Liberty. Trust me, I was new to lifts a couple years ago, and after doing those two (taken the front suspension on the KJ apart 5 times now), lifting a leaf-sprung vehicle looks like a walk in the park, to me. But, then again, I have yet to do it, so take that with a grain of salt.

[FSJ Guy]

You might be better off swapping axles (both ends) if you can get the spring perches to line up.

That way, you get disc brakes up front and at least newer drums in the rear.

RE lift: Invite friends, have food and drink, and buy a lot of cans of PB Blaster about a month before the event.

[68_Gladiator]

PB blaster helps a lot on the U-bolt nuts. took the nuts off one truck without blaster and it made the U-bolts all squiggly lookin. totally bent outta shape after that. sprayed the nuts on the other truck let it sit for a few hours came off just fine. and Ive found they come off easier if you wire brush the exposed threads on the U-bolts first.

[uglyjeep]

I swapped discs onto the closed knuckle front of my cj-6a, it wasn't as difficult as it appeared (and it involved quite a bit of "clearancing"). IIRC the '73 is open knuckle - correct? If so, front discs should simply bolt on.

[grimjeeper73]

i was told they were closed but really i have no idea i guess closed cause its like a ball and socket setup

[68_Gladiator]

does your front axle look like this?

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_P4SPWMPvy7o/Rdo1JxAQYPI/AAAAAAAAASQ/jgprdqcmqDY/DSC02578.JPG

[grimjeeper73]

i got a error on that link

[68_Gladiator]

try this one

http://quad4x4.com/images/4x4techclosed%20knuckle.jpg

[grimjeeper73]

thats what i have

[68_Gladiator]

okay, yea that is a closed knuckle...i think when i priced it out for discs up front using new calipers and rotors and junkyard parts for the rest it comes out to about $105-$135 depending on core charges...part way through this old thread of mine it gets into doing a disc swap up front...http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=87929

here's my estimates with parts from schucks auto parts and a local parts pull yard.

backing plate: 14$per pair (pull and save) chevy

lines: (pull and save) chevy

Calipers: 30$per pair- 15$ core per piece (SCHUCKS) chevy

Rotors: 44$per pair (SCHKS) CJ7

Pads: 17$set- (SCHKS) Chevy

Total w/o cores: 105$

Total W/ cores: 135$

[mdill]

I think you want to look real hard at swapping to a open-knuckle 74+ front axle, makes Disks a no brainer, and will help you turing radius, lift it at the same time, with new front springs.


Mike D.

[FSJ Guy]

I think you want to look real hard at swapping to a open-knuckle 74+ front axle, makes Disks a no brainer, and will help you turing radius, lift it at the same time, with new front springs.


Mike D.

I agree. Make sure the diff drop is on the correct side and you'll have a newer axle, easier parts availability and a MUCH tighter turning radius.

And OEM disc brakes.

[KaiserMan]

A lift is pretty easy to install. I'm not sure how you want to go about lifitng it (new springs, aal's, block in the rear etc) but every time I've had my suspension apart on the 71 the hardest thing was dealing with rusted fastners. Post mount springs like to rust tight to posts (one of my new bushings rust froze to the post in only 3 years) so you may have to get creative to get the spring off. I had to burn and chisel my bushings off a couple of times. Actually installing the lift, is pretty easy and can be done with basic hand tools.

As for disc brakes, I pieced together a working system in a couple of weeks with no referance. It's pretty easy to put discs on a closed knuckle Dana 44 small ball axle (even easier for me as I used an 8 lug set up that did not need the knuckle clearanced) using a combination of junkyard and new replacement parts. I think my set up cost me around $300 with new/rebuilt:

calipers
brake pads
rotors
brake hoses
wheel bearings (inner/outer and races)
hub seals
wheel studs
hard lines

and used

spindles
wheel hubs
locking hubs
caliper brackets.

That said why do you want disc brakes? A properly adjusted drum brake works very well. I noticed very little differance from my 12" drums to my 12" discs after the swap. I mainly did it for parts availability and to see if I could. The only hard part of the swap was that the shocks won't fit in the factory lower mounts do to the caliper.

[mdill]

I would agree, he can swap to disks on his front axle, and what you did on yours is cool as heck, but he also complained about the turning radius, so while I like to hack together old+ new stuff in interesting ways, it won't make his turning radius any better. He still has to hunt up 5 lug disks, master cyl. ...., so a axle swap still is not a 100% plug and go for him.
Still leaves him with some stuff to figure out.




A lift is pretty easy to install. I'm not sure how you want to go about lifitng it (new springs, aal's, block in the rear etc) but every time I've had my suspension apart on the 71 the hardest thing was dealing with rusted fastners. Post mount springs like to rust tight to posts (one of my new bushings rust froze to the post in only 3 years) so you may have to get creative to get the spring off. I had to burn and chisel my bushings off a couple of times. Actually installing the lift, is pretty easy and can be done with basic hand tools.

As for disc brakes, I pieced together a working system in a couple of weeks with no referance. It's pretty easy to put discs on a closed knuckle Dana 44 small ball axle (even easier for me as I used an 8 lug set up that did not need the knuckle clearanced) using a combination of junkyard and new replacement parts. I think my set up cost me around $300 with new/rebuilt:

calipers
brake pads
rotors
brake hoses
wheel bearings (inner/outer and races)
hub seals
wheel studs
hard lines

and used

spindles
wheel hubs
locking hubs
caliper brackets.

That said why do you want disc brakes? A properly adjusted drum brake works very well. I noticed very little differance from my 12" drums to my 12" discs after the swap. I mainly did it for parts availability and to see if I could. The only hard part of the swap was that the shocks won't fit in the factory lower mounts do to the caliper.

[KaiserMan]

I would agree, he can swap to disks on his front axle, and what you did on yours is cool as heck, but he also complained about the turning radius, so while I like to hack together old+ new stuff in interesting ways, it won't make his turning radius any better. He still has to hunt up 5 lug disks, master cyl. ...., so a axle swap still is not a 100% plug and go for him.
Still leaves him with some stuff to figure out.
That's all true. He can source his five lug open knuckle brake parts from a Ford, but that alone will be the same cost as swapping discs to his C/K D44. A master cylinder that is a direct bolt on can be had over the counter for cheap. I found that there is no need for an after market or later model FSJ prop valve. I've never had an issue with the stock one, even with the D60's huge brakes and my 1-ton m/c.

The turning radius will always be a problem with the closed knuckle axles (iirc it's a 50ft turning radius). But he may find that he just gets used to it. I did rather quickly. A swap to a later axle it still pretty easy, and would net him disc brakes (assuming he doesn't swap in an early axle with drums) open knuckles and stronger axle shafts and u-joints (though his stock ones will see less stress then the open knuckle joints so that point may be moot). It will end up being a little more work then a disc brake swap, and more expensive in the long run. he will also be hard pressed to find a stock Jeep open knuckle axle with the same gear ratio as his. He probably has 4.10 or 4.27's. Though I'm sure a GM/Dodge axle would be a fine swap and they often came with 4.10's.

I would guess it all depends on what he wants to do with the truck, and if originality means anything to him. It did to me when I swapped discs on (I almost swapped the drums back on) instead of an axle swap. But I gave that up when I went with the 60. Nothing original there.

If he has stock wheels, they may not clear the calipers. If he swaps in a later axle he will also need a later pitman arm.

[Casey]

That said why do you want disc brakes? A properly adjusted drum brake works very well. I noticed very little differance from my 12" drums to my 12" discs after the swap.
Have you had them packed with mud and tried to stop? After a water crossing? :eek:

Disc brakes became standard for a reason...they work better.

I agree with you to some degree, Thom, but discs are better for an off-road rig.



BTW there is an FSJ junkyard in NC (Jake's) with several sets of J-10 axles w/discs/flat tops/4.09 gears. PM Tanker or halftrac for more info. ;)

[dajeeps]

use a wire wheel for a drill clean the bolts and nuts and use pblaster several times .things will come off alot easer.good luck

[Herk]

I run disks on a closed knuckle. The turning radius isn't to tight on pavement, but I can turn it pretty sharp on dirt (2WD and lots of throttle). Really isn't a problem. I have nearly 75000 miles on this setup, and wouldn't ever consider going back to drums. If you want to change to 6-lug wheels buy later axles.