starter relay problemes

[Ubermich]

So I haven't been able to start my jeep w/o a jump from another truck. I'm attacking the problem today...

When I turn the key I get a plethera of rapid clicks. Those, I have observed, are coming from the starter relay.
I went down to autozone and slapped down $10 for a new one.
The new one didn't have nuts for the positive and negative terminals, so I tried it with a loose fit of the wires.
It clicked about 2-3 times, then there were a few sparks from the relay.
Now the relay just clicks.

Is there something else that just killed the relay?

[johnwaynejeep]

The most important part of a battery is the current. If your using a wire simply held on to the battery post then your not gonna get any current to turn over that beast of an engine. Replace the battery with one that will connect up securly. check all your cables and wires, clean up any corrosion that may be on the wires cause corrosion can also resist current. If you do that and you still only get clicks then it may be your starter is bad. You can have that checked at your local auto zone for no charge. I think most people that own jeeps have run into ignition problems like this. Just try these things out and let us know what happens. If it doesn't work, the guys on this page will get you fixed up in no time. Welcome to the group.

[blackjeep2002]

Try swapping out the battery with another one, if possible. I had the same trouble, switched the relay, same trouble. Put in a different battery and it started right away.
Keith :cool:

[Ubermich]

The cables on the battery are secure. It's the connection to the relay (solenoid).
The battery is only a few months old, and I'd really not like to go buy another only to have this problem again in a short while.
The sparks from the relay/solenoid really bother me.

The starter has been checked, it's fine. Grr, maybe I'll just go buy another battery and make sure the jeep runs a good while every day (since it's not licensed yet I don't get it out much :( )

[will e]

Hey, if the battery is that new, they will replace it free.

I had a NAPA go bad on me in a short period of time.

[PhilSine]

Well, just a thought here.......

If you get the new relay in and you still have trouble then consider checking the alternator and voltage regulator. If either one is faulty and not allowing the battery to get a full charge then that would cause your problem as well.

[CowKiller]

no i had same problem witt the sparks, but then mine melted. you need to get two more nuts and pinch the wire between the two

[Ubermich]

I got her running! I went to autozone and got the battery charged for free. Then she ran. She didn't quite purr, however, as the air pump (**** EGR) had locked up. Got a new air pump in and now she almost purrs. <in tears>'Tis a beautiful thing.</in tears> The next thing on the to-do list is get my carb fixed. When I was having problems w/ the fuel getting to the carb I played w/ the choke to see if I could see fuel going into the carb... the choke then locked in an upright position :( I'm thinking maybe this is why she runs rich? (you can smell it, 'tis quite strong)
After that's resolved, I'll have to deal with, it seems, either my valves/rockers/lifters. Since it's been sitting so long, it seems like something's sticking, thus making a clatter.

Any ideas for the other problems would be appreciated. Else I think the carb will be recieving a good cleaning, and I'll go from there.

[PhilSine]

Before you do a valve job, do a compression test to see if you even need it.

Also, make sure you have no exhaust leaks because to the untrained ear, a good exhaust leak can sound smilar to noisy lifters.

[Ubermich]

Is there a decent way to check for an exhaust leak w/o taking it to a shop?

Also, note that the jeep has been sitting, immoble, for almost a year :'(

[PhilSine]

Yeah, get a mechanics stethescope and use it to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

Do the compression check no matter what. Do it yourself so you know more about your engine condition than what the mechanic may tell you.

The cost of the compression checker should be less than taking it to a mechanic to have it done.

[Ubermich]

Pretty much everything has to be done myself. I'm far too poor to have someone else do it for me :D
Essencially, the only reason a mechanic will be touching my jeep is for something that needs to be welded, or for something which I can't get the propper tool for... At least that's the plan.

Hopefully I will be making yet another trip to my local autozone in the near future.

[mccullough_89_GW]

the clicker, clatter is probably a exhaust leak at the manifold....mine was ....

good luck...do some searching...all the answers are most likely in the previous posts....

I find posts with my exact (or close) symtoms,and see what they did to fix it....

welcome aboard...
kel

[Ubermich]

So you think it's not the lifters sticking? Even though it's been sitting there for so long without running? A friend of mine over at AFM (www.afm4x4.com (http://www.afm4x4.com)) is thinking an 'engine flush' (via oil additive) could do the trick.
I think I'm going to do both though, as neither should hurt... right? smile.gif

[ August 09, 2002, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: Ubermich ]

[Ubermich]

Another Q. My choke valve is stuck in the open position (This happened when I was trying to see if fuel was entering the carb a while back.) Would I be stupid to open up the choke cover and all that to see if the choke is stuck? Everything moves about 5-10º between full open, and where it sits while the jeep is off. It looks like the fast idle cam or fast idle lever is what's stoping? At least that's the last thing I can see that's not clear of everything (can't see the backside of that for anything) before the choke.
So, would i be ok to open up the choke, or would I probably screw myself over?

Edit: umm, well, ok. I opened it anyway. How tightly wound is the choke coil supposed to be? And any other ideas on what could be stuck? I'm thinking it's the fast idle cam but I can't see around to the other side to find out. If it is that, how can I fix it? Should I just take the whole bloody thing off and rebuild that portion :(

Edit x2: haHA I got it. Just had to sit back and look at it for a few seconds and all was revealed. Choke problem = no more! Now to get some engine flush and a stethascope...

[ August 09, 2002, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: Ubermich ]

[Panther]

I had the same problem trying to start my scrambler today, I'll try another battery.

A flush might not be a bad idea. I have been using marvels mystery in frequent oil changes.
You can pop the valve cover check the rockers to see if you can tighten any loose ones and look for wear. I have the ticking in my cherokee. After tightening down a handful of them the ticking subsided. Later the sound returned so next plan of action is to get some new rockers from PAW.

[Skyjacker88]

To check for exhaust leaks around the manifold.........set your shop-vac up so that it is blwoing into the tailpipe (you may have to tape it up). then listen around the manifold for leaks in the gaskett. Its much easier to detect without the engine running, and isolates the gasket, as opposed to a valve tap.

As far as using something to flush the engine, an oil change is ussually sufficient.....

[Frankenstien]

you wanna know how to check a starter relay. Take you a big wire or anthing metal with a U bend thats insulated. Then touch both of your relays big wires. If it turns over its your relay.
J

[Ubermich]

haha, simple enough. I like it :D
btw, what do the other two wires go to? The previous owner made sure everything was even more difficult to follow than it was originally (they literally used spare wire and electrical tape for various things. The electrical tape is still sitting under the hood, although it's all but useless.)

[Frankenstien]

You figure all that thing does is flip a switch that connects the two anyways. learned it a long time ago on a 67 mustang. And the other two little wires I think, and Im sure i will be corrected one goes to your ignition and one to the alternator. just a guess I havent messed with mine yet.

J

[Ubermich]

Ok, last question for a while (hopefully), what are your recommendations on oil? I feel stupid asking the question, but this is my best source (jeeze I hate feeling like a punk kid :rolleyes: :D ). I'm in TX so we'll be having hot weather for a few more months.
My chilton appears to have a decent explination for the ratings, but I think it's too late for me to understand smile.gif

[ August 09, 2002, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: Ubermich ]

[andy d]

your favorite flavor of 20/50 and a good oil filter

[Jeepzilla]

I'd still keep an eye on your battery charge. If you hold a charge well, then OK. But if you constantly lose charge, check belt tensions (new belts never hurt), alternator output (Autozone checks for free but you gotta take it off) and condition of wires. Old wires ARE corroded, just a matter of how much. You'd be amazed how much good a thorough cleaning of all your connections will do. Use dielectric grease when reassembling. Also check your fexible brake lines before driving very much. If they look original and are checkered and stiff get those guys replaced!

[PhilSine]

Originally posted by Skyjacker88:
[QB]To check for exhaust leaks around the manifold.........set your shop-vac up so that it is blwoing into the tailpipe (you may have to tape it up). then listen around the manifold for leaks in the gaskett. Its much easier to detect without the engine running, and isolates the gasket, as opposed to a valve tap. [QB]I like that idea. It never occurred to me to do it that way. I like it so much I think I'll tell people that I thought of it first ;) ;)

About oil. 20W-50 is fine if your engine is somewhat worn and close to needing a rebuild. My engine is fresh off a rebuild so I use 10W-40. And I stick with Valvoline.

As for filters, spend the extra $5 or so to buy a WIX or a K&N oil filter. You will not regret it.

[The Preacher]

As per usual, be sure to check all the connections you can on that side of the hood. I was having trouble with mine this week. I killed a one week old battery. I exchanged the battery, bought a new solenoid (with post terminals) at Kragen for $8 and low and behold, I found a loose wire that was supposed to go to the voltage regulator.

It is probably too soon to know for sure but I am betting that loose wire was the culprit.