help, my Wag is choking!!!!!!

[T-Bone]

Ok here goes. (88 G-wag)
When I start off it stumbles and chokes as if it is going to shut off, if I let off the accelerator it strays running. I can ease into the gas and it will go. If I stay in the gas, I am ok, but if I have to stop or slow down tremendously for a turn, it does the same thing again.
It would not start one day, and I cupped the throat of the carb and released it while someone cranked it. It cranked.
I sprayed carb cleaner down the carb and on all the linkage, let it sit. Ran great for two days, then repeat condition. I spray cleaner in and it runs great for two more, now choking condition again.
So Far:
replaced fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve and damaged hoses to and from pcv (big holes).

any ideas would be great...
sorry this is so long.

[madogswagon]

My 85 sounds like its doing the same thing. I rebuilt the carb and it still sucks (choking and smoke) I was told to replace all the vacuum lines and the choke thermostat next. If that doesn't work then to start replacing vacuum switches etc... I'm about to chuck the whole carb and go with an Edelbrock.

[Bob Barry]

The accelerator-pump arm on the throttle-shaft sounds like it's sticking. It doesn't take much, but if you clean it out then lube it up, it will work smoothly and get rid of that off-idle bog.

In addition, retarded timing will contribute to such a bog.

[T-Bone]

I am stupid when it comes to carbs (among other things). Where is the Choke therostat?

Is that the enclosed round component on the left side of the carb with an electrical connection on it?

Thanks for the info & good luck

[T-Bone]

Thanks Bob
again with my stupidity...can you give me an idea of what to look for and is there a suggested type of cleaner to use & lube to use?

Thanks again

[T-Bone]

I know now where the throttle arm is.
Should I lube it with litheum grease or Wd-40?

[letank]

spray a little brake cleaner on the joints..... it is supposed to be harmless to rubber parts.

no WD 40, it attract dirt/dust

white grease is good

you may try to tighten the accelerator arm.... so it start earlier, may sure no binding on the side of the carb

Michel
74 wag

[T-Bone]

Thanks guys.
I cleaned and lubed, didn't seem to change things.
I left work to pick up my son and before I got there I almost stalled in the middle of a busy intersection. That scared me at the thought of the next time him being in the car when it happened, and something bad happening.
As it is my daily driver, I don't have a lot ofdown time for it, so took it in for a check-up.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again

[Don S]

Originally posted by T-Bone:
Thanks guys.
I cleaned and lubed, didn't seem to change things.
Thanks again..
T-Bone:...
... sorry to hear about the problems. you will find some good LINKs below that should be of some help...
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_tag_01.jpgphoto MC-2150
... First don't assume a new part or even something thing you rebuilt your self are working correctly … always back-check.
... The first thing to do would be sure the engine is getting fuel. With the engine hot and having just died and/or NOT running is pull the Air Cleaner, look for fuel pools on the manifold, a sign of a float problem. Next look down in the carburetor. Is the choke valve-plate wide open or closed? If OK look down in the carburetor and open the throttle 4 times. If a fair amount of fuel squirts out then the accelerator and fuel pump would seem to be OK.
... If OK then check the vacuum advance system in the distributor. On the older FSJs I pull the cap and see if the point plate advances when a vacuum is applied to the little nipple on the distributor …

… The choke systems have a fast idle cam that is ‘stepped for different speeds at different choke settings. Carbon also forms and can ‘choke-up’ the small passageways that are used to heat the intake manifold and choke systems causing a ‘cold natured’ engine.

... Check the operation of the hot air riser to the air cleaner that warms the air and the operation of the exhaust heat riser that warms the manifold and carburetor. These items aid in vaporizing the fuel and help prevent the engine from being cold ‘natured’and can be plugged with CARBON (http://groups.msn.com/JEEPTECH101/jeeptech.msnw)(link). BUT after the engine has warmed up they can help cause Vapor Lock(link) (http://groups.msn.com/JEEPTECH101/jeeptech.msnw) or float-bowl boil-over. Gasoline is very sensitive to temperature for proper atomization.
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/carb01.html

http://www.michiganjeepers.com/forums/images/graemlins/wave.gif … and CUL… ds..

[T-Bone]

That's some great stuff Don. Thanks.
I'm spending lots of quality work time reading it all, but it's worth it!!!
I just picked up my Jeep from the mechanic. After chasing multiple issues, he has it running really smooth.
Bad plug wires (he proved it to me, I changed them 2 months ago) he used higher quality.
Changed plugs

Bad coil (he proved it, I changed it 1 yr ago)
Cracked distributor cap (I changed it last week, he said take it back)

Vacuum leaks (he found some I missed)

It does run like a top now...better than it has ever before.
I have one tiny skip in it ONLY if I put the gas to the floor. It is very tiny.
I think I will try some of the tricks from the links Don posted, and maybe that will clear up.
Thanks again guys...I am so glad I found this group.