crossmember/ trans mount Q's

[midmichfsj]

After an SOA and three inch lift i'm having some front driveshaft clearance issues, i wonder why. ;)
solution on my 89 wag is to move the crossmember back and use the holes that the manufacturer so conveniently put in place for me. this moves the cross back about six inches. the plan is to weld a piece of 2x4 tubing to the front of the cross to mount the trans to.
Now that you have the background here's my question, on the trans mount bracket there is a stud like bracket with rubber bushings, is this a vital peice, can i just take it out. this would make fabbing my bracket a lot easier.

[mcjeep80]

pretty sure it is a torque isolater. i say you should keep it. just make your 2" longer so you can bolt it to the same piece as the tranny mount

[FSJ Guy]

It's actually called a stud torque mount in some parts listings. I'd leave it intact. It's there for a reason.

[Chevelleguy]

It should be attached by an 8"-10" arm to the transfer case.

[AlsChopShop]

leave the mount, or you may break it! my mount only uses rubber pads on either side of the crossmember, but my conversion motor mounts are very ridgid and shouldn't let the drivetrain move much anyway. with stock engine mounts, it will move enough to brake a solid mount right off.

Al

[Dirt Wag]

I would keep it - it's purpose is to limit how far the t-case/tranny/engine can twist under load - without it all that torque is on the motor/tranny mounts. With your big tires and 401 I'd say it's vital.

[misfittom138]

It should be attached by an 8"-10" arm to the transfer case.

Anyone have pics of how it "should" look? I think mine is missing a part. It doesn't look like it is holding jack.

[phatmax95]

Anyone have pics of how it "should" look? I think mine is missing a part. It doesn't look like it is holding jack.


This is basically it, but I upgraded the mounts on it. Stock they are smaller. But they were shot so I grabbed a few out of my rubber parts bin, I think they are suzuki body mounts. I say you should definitely keep it. Without it the stock transmission mount would be shot. If you look closely at the build of the trans mount you can see there is nothing but rubber holding the mount together, and the only thing keeping it from splitting is the torque arm. I had alot of play in my torque arm (the reason I upgraded it) and I think thats the biggest reason it broke.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k266/phatmax95/Full%20Size%20Jeep%20Albums/80%20Wagoneer/DSC04700.jpg

[misfittom138]

Oh, ok I do have that. Not in great shape. The exhaust ties into it as well.

[midmichfsj]

sounds like i'll keep it then
thanks for the input guys.

[mcjeep80]

i ran into the same problem as you and i kept the crossmember where it was. i did notch it to clear the d-shaft though.i am pretty new to welding and fabing. this mod was easier than i expected. it came out alot nicer than i expectedhttp://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff359/mcjeep80/3d7300ff.jpg

[misfittom138]

I notched mine too. Well, my friend did it, but it was my idea! lol.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o85/misfittom138/waggy/xmember.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o85/misfittom138/waggy/xmember2.jpg

[midmichfsj]

already did a notch on it to clear the shaft after the SOA. i don't want to redo it since it turned out really nice. already got started on the new trans mount tonight. hopefully i can finish it this week. i miss my waggy.

[mcjeep80]

that was my second time as well. the first time was with my stock shaft. then i twisted it.so i had a square shaft made. that thing is HUGE, 2 1/2" tubing on top