Which rear differential do I have?

[2Stock]

I have a '91 GW with the following description on the rear differential cover:
DANA 42960 060 0 Rev D 11-22-88 and the following on the tag next to the cover:
5300 4030 3.31 6053 29 - 1 (I think!) I can tell from removing the wheel that it is not a full floating axel.

Also, I hear an uneven noise coming from somewhere that sounds like rear-end or wheel bearings. I have replaced the wheel bearings on the front end of my '84 GW so I am familiar with the proceedure but I have never been into the rear bearings. The books say you have to take the rear axel and bearing to an auto shop. Does this require special tools or can you do it yourself?

[Snakeyes_Tx]

You have a Dana 44 with 3.31 gears

the build date is November 22nd, 1988

Strangely enough, I can't find the ring and pinion gear tooth count in your numbers??

Anyhow, I believe you have to get the bearing Races pressed off, not the bearings. Napa stores can do it I believe.

[2Stock]

I took another look and those are all the numbers. I am not sure but doesn't 3.31 tell you the same thing? I don't know much about Jeep numbers but I am a nut for that kind of stuff.

All my reading was telling me that the noise was either a limited slip differential that I had added the wrong lubricant to or wheel bearings. I think it is wheel bearings.

If it is at least in the 90's here tomorrow I will take a look.

[Bob Barry]

A shop will have to press on the new bearing and retainer; also do the seal while you're at it, and have the shop smooth out the shaft where the seal rides to prevent it from leaking (the first shop that did my bearings neglected to do this, so I had to replace the seal a year later)

The procedure for you is very easy:

* Get the rear axle on jackstands
* Remove the wheels and drums
* Unscrew the four nuts holding the bearing retainer plate to the axle (you get at them through the access hole in the axle flange)
* Pull the axle out. If it resists coming out, turn the drum around, screw the lugnuts back on evenly a few turns, and use the drum as a slide-hammer to pop the axle out
* Since I don't trust the shop to do it right, I crack the retainer ring (thick ring pressed on the axle next to the bearing to keep it in place) off myself. I drill a 1/4" hole about 3/4 of the thickness of the retainer ring, and use a cold-chisel to crack it through. Many places save time by torching the ring off, which changes the axle temper and strength.
* If the old race is still in the axle tube, use a 3-jaw internal puller to get it out.

To reinstall, drive a new race in, slide the axles in, and bolt the retaining plate down. Then install the drums and wheels, and you're ready to roll!

[giddyup]

Here is a page with a great write up. Hopes this helps.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/d44/d44-1.htm