Anybody ever rhino-lined their flares?

[dlowrance]

So I've now convinced myself to take care of the little rust issues I'm getting on the Glad before they get too bad. The truck spent the first 30 years of it's life in a rust-free environment but the last few winters around the rust-belt are starting to take their toll...

I've got the typical rear quarter at the seam issues, and a little bit on the flares in the rear. Nothing too bad yet, but I want to nip it in the bud. BUT - overall the whole truck still looks really good, paint-wise, and I don't have any desire to change colors or anything. Besides at the end of the day she's a fishing/hunting/work rig, not a trailer queen. I just don't want her rusting away to nothing if I can help it.

So my idea was to tape off and sand down about 2 inches above the seam on the bed, and around the flares take that to basically just above the seam where the flare attaches, and then use some sort of bed-liner as the finished coat.

Anyone done this? It seems to me it'd work for a sealer, permanently sealing those salt-catching seams...and also would provide some additional toughness around the bottom of the truck.

I've read a bunch of threads on guys using it for interior and/or bed liner, but not specifically what I'm thinking...

So a slew of questions for anyone in the know.

Looks like there's a few options for DIY - Durabak and Herculiner seem to be the front runners...any pro's/con's?

Prep on the area? I'm planning to rough sand either all the way to bare metal or at least close, taking all the rust away as I go where it's got a start. Do I need to slap some primer on?

Spray or roll? I have a couple of spray guns, air and airless both, but have zero experience using them...is the spray job that much better than the roll on? The rest of the truck still looks good so looks are important for this job.

[Chrome]

Sounds like a good idea. I think all wide track rear flares would be better off done this way. Elminate the problem of rust from rock pecks.

[Knuck]

Thats my Long Term plan as well. I hadn't planned on going above the seam on the bed sides though. I will have to reconsider that.

[dlowrance]

Thats my Long Term plan as well. I hadn't planned on going above the seam on the bed sides though. I will have to reconsider that.

My reasoning there is because the only bad rust spot I have is on the passenger side and goes UP from the seam around an inch...I want to completely remove the rust and coat/seal that area...to do that I need to overlap that seam by at least an inch. Also I'm trying to avoid having the herculiner have a stop right at any seam...that seems like it would have the possibility of creating ANOTHER good spot for water/salt to catch and start eating at the metal again. I want the rust-prone spots to be completely covered.

[bushwood44]

Sounds like a good idea or just cut them off and be done with it.:D

[dlowrance]

Sounds like a good idea or just cut them off and be done with it.:D

:eek: BITE YOUR TONGUE!!!:eek: :D

[Kali]

I have a set of front widetrack fenders (i think they are from rustrepair.com before they stopped making them?) that have been herculined on the inside. looks like it would be a smart move, at the very least to minimize rock chips

[Knuck]

I had been planning on putting on some new bed sides from Z&M as there is a bit of rust through on the stockers. I have since changed my mind and now intend to patch them up. I would rather replace the bedsides with the Z&M parts, as they aren't priced that badly, but the shipping is a killer.

[billyrb]

the beater flares had roll-on bedliner from one of the p.o.'s. It'll probably get it again too :)

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Sounds like a good idea or just cut them off and be done with it.:D
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

[dlowrance]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

I was waiting for you to read that one Jon...:thumbsup:

[ne715]

When we did Mikki's truck we did the whole truck in Durabak, and inside the bed Herculiner. The truck is yellow Durabak, and the black and pink on the sides is just paint over the Durabak.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ne715/PICT2978.jpg

Prior to installing her new bed we used POR 15 on all the seams of the bed to stop the potential rust areas prior to doing Heruliner in the bed, and Durabak on the outside. DO NOT USE xylene or acetone on the POR 15 prior to bedline it WILL remove the POR 15. Herculiner is much cheaper than Durabak. Herculiner at Menard's is about $75.00 a gallon, also available in quarts, black only. Durabak is about $120.00 to $150.00 depending on color plus shipping, in gallons only. I will give a very helpful hint when using DIY bedliners, go to Wal-Mart and purchase storage containers call "Lock & Lock". These containers will allow you to store any leftover bedliner without it sitting up, and allowing you to reuse it several times.


Hope this helps. Pam
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ne715/DCP02700.jpg


http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ne715/DCP02693.jpg

[dlowrance]

So why did you go with Durabak for the exterior and herculiner for the bed? Cost only? Which one worked better in your opinion? Did you spray it on?

[ne715]

So why did you go with Durabak for the exterior and herculiner for the bed? Cost only? Which one worked better in your opinion? Did you spray it on?

We went with Durabak on the outside because Mikki wanted a yellow truck, and Herculiner in the bed because she wanted it black. They both actually are pretty easy to work with. Durabak seems to have a longer set up time than the Herculiner. For the large areas Mikki used the roller that comes with the kit, but actually just using a brush and dabbing it on seems to work better and to get better coverage on the first coat, then touch up the light spots. It took two gallons of Durabak to do the outside and one gallon of Herculiner on the bed. One thing I did notice between the two is that Herculiner (liquid portion, not the grit) has more of a tendency to run down verticle surfaces and will pool at the bottom.

Just make sure that each time you use it mix it well. Not with a stick either, you will need a paint mixer that goes on a drill, to stir the grit from the bottom, both will settle the grit to the bottom of the storage container.

Pam

[xsonmyeyes]

I did the bottom of da wag.

[dlowrance]

I did the bottom of da wag.

Which brand did you use, do you remember?

[Knuck]

I am planning on using durabak. From what I have read and heard Herculiner tends to turn dull rather quickly. It still does what its supposed to, just doesnt look as nice long term.

[frank_c]

i plan on coating the flares and the sill. really all along that lower body line.

Durabak used to be sold in quarts, i have one here, but i see on their site that they only sell gallons now. got mine at 4WD Hardware.

[ThisGuyUKnow]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

haha i knew you were going to say that

[JeepNOFEAR]

You have to have a special gun to spray it unless your talking about the spray paint can style and that stuff is junk compared to the roll on.

On the lower part of my N/T the PO used roll on. Here is an old picture.

[frank_c]

i have heard that an undercoating gun works well.

[Knuck]

I read somewhere (maybe on IFSJA) that you can use a texturing gun to spray it on. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2471 For $20, it might be worth a shot. There are a couple more Undercoating Guns on this site. http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astpai08.html

[xsonmyeyes]

I used the Herculiner but one thing I would do different is, I would have painted the area I used it on black because when this stuff dries, it contracts. Even though I put 2-3 coats on with dry time in between, I still have white spots showing thru.. :rolleyes:

[Knuck]

Did you Brush, Roll or Spray it on?

[xsonmyeyes]

Mostly used a brush but I rolled it where I could bc of small spaces, nooks and crannies.