Looking for AMC 360 build pics and info

[Jeep8499]

Well, the time has come to start the rebuild process on my AMC 360. I'd like to do some aftermarket mods (i.e.- intake, carb, cam, etc.) but am not quite sure what to do. Looking for suggestions on what to do for maximum power and so on. What's going to give me the most "bang for the buck" so to speak?

If you wouldn't mind posting pics and info on your lightly modded or heavily built 360, I'd really appreciate it (Or if you have a link to a build thread, that'd be even better yet). Any opinions/info would also be great. This is my first AMC engine so bear with me as I'm still learning. :thumbsup:

I'll start off with a question. Was there any differences between the 360's throughout the different years that they were produced? (Any head differences, etc?) If it helps at all, the engine I have is from an '85 Grand Wagoneer.

Thanks,
Nate

[pineymike]

Unless you get into late '60s amx heads theres not much difference,Go all edlebrock:heads/intake/cam/carb, if you can afford it,or just normal mods;3 angle valve job/clean up ports/oling mods/cam /headders/4bbl/duals/freeflo ac Ebay is your friend!

[J4GRAND]

Most of the 360s are the same throughout the production run. The early heads up to 73 used studded instead of bridged rocker arms; these are sought after by the high HP crowd as they are easier to hook roller rockers to. Check out the specs for the 360 in my J4000 in my signature. It puts out about 350 HP and 400 ft/lbs of torque.

[Jeep8499]

Thanks for the help and suggestions so far guys!
Keep them coming. :)

Nate

[tgreening]

Most of the 360s are the same throughout the production run. The early heads up to 73 used studded instead of bridged rocker arms; these are sought after by the high HP crowd as they are easier to hook roller rockers to. Check out the specs for the 360 in my J4000 in my signature. It puts out about 350 HP and 400 ft/lbs of torque.


With those 360 specs, I'm curious as to how many gallons to the mile you get. :)


But seriously....

[Mephistopoles]

With those 360 specs, I'm curious as to how many gallons to the mile you get. :)


But seriously....

I put together a 360 some years ago with an R4B intake, Comp 268 cam, Carter carb, and curve kit in the points (later Pertronix) distributor. I had it in a '66 Rambler Rogue, backed up with a T-5 and got around 26 mpg. That was cruising at 80+ on the freeway. Probably wouldn't be as good in a FSJ with Q-trac.:D

[billyrb]

Here is a pic of the 360 I built years ago for my old GW:

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/billyrb/FSJ/360.jpg

Specs:
Bored: 0.010
Cam: Crane H-260-2
Intake: Edelbrock Performer 3731
Carb: Edelbrock Performer 1406
Ignition: DUI HEI
Exhaust: stock manifolds with flowmaster 40 series / 2.5" single system



Here is my 401:
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/billyrb/FSJ/401.jpg

Specs:
Bored: 0.030
Edelbrock Heads
Edelbrock Pro-Flo Gen I EFI
K&N filter & housing
Speed-Pro forged pistons
Milodon stud / bolt kit
ARP rod bolts
Crane Hyd. Roller cam
Crane Hyd. Roller Gold Race Rockers
Edelbrock Shorty Headers
Borla dual 2.5" system
Milodon pan & swinging pick-up

Most of the parts for the 401 are also available for the 360, which is why I listed it.


If you want a good, basic build that will give good performance, power and not break the bank, I would recommend either K8600 from Summit or Crane H-260-2. For pistons, use Speed Pro Hyperutectic and go 0.030 over. Convert to HEI and use an Edelbrock Performer intake and 600 cfm carb. Slap on a pair of Doug Thorley headers with a 2.5" single system with a high-flow muffler and you'll be set.

[J4GRAND]

Quote:
Originally Posted by J4GRAND
Most of the 360s are the same throughout the production run. The early heads up to 73 used studded instead of bridged rocker arms; these are sought after by the high HP crowd as they are easier to hook roller rockers to. Check out the specs for the 360 in my J4000 in my signature. It puts out about 350 HP and 400 ft/lbs of torque.



With those 360 specs, I'm curious as to how many gallons to the mile you get. :)

I still get a healthy 8-10 mpg depending on how I baby the skinny pedal.

[Serious Johnson]

'83 360:
Bored .030" over.
Speed Pro Hypereutectic 9.5:1 pistons.
Fair bit o' chamber re-shaping, CR +-9.25:1.
Moderate porting, multi-angle "blend" valve job.
Crane valve springs, retainers & pushrods.
Summit K8600 cam, Cloyes double roller chain.
Stock crank & rods, polished, etc. ARB(?) bolts.
Edelbrock Performer non-EGR intake, port-matched.
GM TBI, w/ knock sensor, custom chip, fuel & spark control.
Stock air filter, stock cold air tube.
Stock exhaust manifolds, port matched.
2-1/4"-3" y-pipe, junkyard 3" muffler from some Mitsubishi diesel (very quiet).
Stock distributor, advance disabled, TFI.

This is a strong runner! Fit to a T-18a 4-speed, 208, 3.73s & 33s in my Wag, it'll do 0-60 in 9 second flat up here above 8,000' -- closer to 8 down by the coasts. Datalogs have shown it pulling cleanly past 6,600 RPM (which it's done often when towing with that wide-ratio trans), with off-idle punch pretty close to stock. Fuel mileage is about 15 MPG just farting around to the bar & back with the occasional spate of 4-Low -- 20 if I try hard.

I think the head work did a lot. There are some places like bowl & chamber shape that weren't wonderful, but mainly the castings were horribly ragged & misshapen -- half the exhaust doglegs were mostly or entirely missing! Spendy stuff like roller rockers are apparently not needed unless you need 7,000 RPM.

Things I'd do differently:
Well, I'd most likely build a turbo'd, injected stroker 6, but that's beside the point.
I'd keep EGR, mainly for its small contribution to fuel efficiency.
I'd probably use something like a Megasquirt injection computer for easier programability.
I'd take the compression up closer to 10:1 (only with fuel injection).
I'd do that-there oiling mod I didn't know about when I built it. 6,000+ RPM on an AMC V8 is probably not a good idea without it.
I'd back it with a closer-ratio trans so that I didn't have to rev the bejeezus outta the poor thing when towing.
I'd start with a 401 if Flint would give me one.

}}}}

[Mephistopoles]

To save more $$, have your local friendly automotive machinist check the taper on your cylinder bores, chances are that you won't need an overbore and new pistons. The 1970 360 in my avatar was taken out of service in 1997, after much flogging. The cylinders were acceptable in roundness and taper. The bearings were getting a bit worn, though. Also, if you're not revving past 5500 on a regular basis, I think the only oiling mod you need (other than new pump gears and pressure bypass spring) is to plug the oil filter bypass. I have relentlessly flogged alot of 360s with no mods other than adding an extra quart of oil. Always re-use your old distributor gears. The ones that come with your aftermarket distributor are garbage.

[RAMBLINFSJ]

'83 360:
Bored .030" over.
Speed Pro Hypereutectic 9.5:1 pistons.
Fair bit o' chamber re-shaping, CR +-9.25:1.
Moderate porting, multi-angle "blend" valve job.
Crane valve springs, retainers & pushrods.
Summit K8600 cam, Cloyes double roller chain.
Stock crank & rods, polished, etc. ARB(?) bolts.
Edelbrock Performer non-EGR intake, port-matched.
GM TBI, w/ knock sensor, custom chip, fuel & spark control.
Stock air filter, stock cold air tube.
Stock exhaust manifolds, port matched.
2-1/4"-3" y-pipe, junkyard 3" muffler from some Mitsubishi diesel (very quiet).
Stock distributor, advance disabled, TFI.
}}}}

Hey Johnson, are you running the '83 bridged rocker heads or are you running a set of 6090 or 291 head's? I was searching for pistons and only found Speed-pro 9.0:1 hypereutectic pistons. Where did you get your pistons?

[funwheeling]

Look at my car domain site.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Here is my 401:
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/billyrb/FSJ/401.jpg

Specs:
Bored: 0.030
Edelbrock Heads
Edelbrock Pro-Flo Gen I EFI
K&N filter & housing
Speed-Pro forged pistons
Milodon stud / bolt kit
ARP rod bolts
Crane Hyd. Roller cam
Crane Hyd. Roller Gold Race Rockers
Edelbrock Shorty Headers
Borla dual 2.5" system
Milodon pan & swinging pick-up

:eek:

[mattmopar440]

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/billyrb/FSJ/360.jpg


nice color where did you get the original paint color

[Jeep8499]

Wow, VERY helpful guys...thanks for the responses.
Just what I was looking for. To anyone else out there, feel free to post up! :thumbsup:

Nate

[billyrb]

nice color where did you get the original paint color

That is the original AMC Blue paint, EN-66 available from Seymour Paint. Here is their website, and the color is on the bottom row (also in their pulldown menu):

http://www.seymourpaint.com/hi_tech_engine_enamels.html

[billyrb]

Spendy stuff like roller rockers are apparently not needed unless you need 7,000 RPM

:)

[Jeep8499]

Hey billyrb, where'd you get those cool looking valve covers on your 401 from? By the way, both of your engines are very nice looking to say the least. :D

Nate

[billyrb]

Thanks, I enjoy building them and wish I had time / space / $$ for more. As dumb as it sounds, I'd like to have a shop filled with engines on cradles. The covers on the 401 were from MC at Bulltear. They were originally the cast aluminum color, but I spent a few hours masking them and painting them to look different.

[Jeep8499]

Thanks, I enjoy building them and wish I had time / space / $$ for more. As dumb as it sounds, I'd like to have a shop filled with engines on cradles. The covers on the 401 were from MC at Bulltear. They were originally the cast aluminum color, but I spent a few hours masking them and painting them to look different.

Sorry, I'm not very familiar with Bulltear. Are these valve covers something that you bought from and individual member or are they something that could still be bought? If you have some type of a link, that'd be great.

Nate

[RAMBLINFSJ]

www.bulltear.com

[jeepsr4ever]

www.Bulltear.com

[Jeep8499]

www.Bulltear.com (http://www.Bulltear.com)

Thanks for the links guys. However, would I currently be able to find those valve covers for sale on this site or did a member just sell a set of them at one point in time?

Nate

[bushwood44]

They are still selling them.

[billyrb]

Nate, I'll give you the 411. Bulltear is a company run by MC, who goes by jeeps4ever on this forum (he posted just above your last post). He sells those valve covers, but they come in a standard cast form and you'd have to mask / paint them to look like the ones in my pic. That should clear it up ;)

[Ristow]

build for torque. you'll have more fun that way. 9.0-9.5 CR. mild-moderate cam,good intake with a holley carb. the old 4180 holleys ford used in the mid-80s' are excellent carbs,and cheap on ebay.

edelbrock performers are good intakes,but a cast iron square-bore intake from an AMC are good too.

i've run a couple edelbrock performer cam grinds,decent cam,but not a real big boost.in the future i'll run a bigger cam,like an 8600,maybe even an 8601 cam from summit,but use rhoads lifters to keep the low end torque strong.

you don't need anything fancy unless you're gonna be revving hard,and most of us don't. stock rockers are fine. oil mods not needed either.

get a good distributor. i like HEI. i'll try a Mallory set-up someday too. MSD seems to be getting shoddy these days.

here's my 360 iput together for my '83. universal red-pics give it a chevy orange look,it's really red. the intake is a square-bore AMC intake,painted "cast gray",as is the pump and balancer.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/milltownmike/P10208531.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/milltownmike/P10208441.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/milltownmike/P10208591.jpg

[billyrb]

Nice lookin' mill Ristow

[Mephistopoles]

That's a great lookin' motor there!!:thumbsup:
The only oil mod I do on a stock type build is to block off the oil filter bypass.

[Chrome]

Here's my gas guzzler. Info and pics in sig below.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/363000-363999/363842_12_full.jpg

[billyrb]

with regards to the internal oiling mod, there are a lot of folks out there that say they don't need it, or not needed unless you hot-rod, etc. Honestly, for the $25 for the kit and the $15 in machine work, it's darn good insurance and helps keep the rear bearings covered in oil. I don't know about anyone else, but I'd gladly spend $40 to help my motor last longer.

[Gil]

I don't suppose there is a chance of billyrb or Ristow building one for me? :p

[Ristow]

sure,c'mon up!

thanks for the compliments guys.

[jeepsr4ever]

Ristow what the heck is that orange color doing on your AMC V8? :D

[Ristow]

......sigh......

[Millerluck]

It's a 401.


http://mysite.verizon.net/lsjlmiller/engine2.jpg

And my parts list.

http://mysite.verizon.net/lsjlmiller/401build.htm

It was a rush to build. Nothing like wheeling a bunch of speed parts out the door at Summit.


Larry

[bushwood44]

All of them look great, after gears and front locker that will be the next thing to do .Then i'll have a spare waiting for when every some thing happens to this reman. 360