Leaking Radiator!!!!

[porkchop]

Well I got the dizzy drive gear from Crazy today (thanks, Pete). I put it all back together in pretty much record time for me. 2 hours. As soon as I get it all together I am filling up the radiator and it starts to leak :mad: ! It is shooting a nice stream right in the middle. You can only get to it by removing the radiator again. Well I figured I could use some JB weld and seal it up. How good will this work? Is there anything on the market that will work better, besides a new radiator. I have no idea where I can get a new radiator for my 67. The size changed in 74? from 25 inches to 27 inches. Help! I am going wheeling tomorrow but only if I can fix this. Thanks.

[joe]

If the surface is good and clean and not slick with anti-freeze it should work pretty good for awhile. I've got a crack in the upper radiator tank patched with JB Weld. Supposed to have just been a temporary fix(6 months ago?) but haven't got around to it yet smile.gif

[JNErotten]

I used this stuff called magnum steel on my '69's rad over a year ago. Still holding well. Pretty much the same stuff I think exept the magnum comes in a roll and you cut off a piece, roll it together, then put it on. It's thick like playdough and would prob be easier to work with than JB but, the long setting JB has a higher temp and tourque strength. i lightly wire brushed it with alcohol first ti clean and get any thing greasy off.

[lou]

pull your radiator, if the core is squirting clean the area then solder it up using a propane torch , the repair will per permenant

[Bob Barry]

What's the trick to soldering pinholes in our radiators? I spent (wasted?) the better part of a day-off trying to salvage a radiator to get my Cherokee by until I could get a good 4-core for my Grand Wagoneer, and borrow-back the new Modine that the GW borrowed from the Cherokee last Easter.

I'm using a propane torch and some silver bearing solder (I think?). About all I know is that solder flows to the heat, so I heated up the surface, then directed the torch to the adjacent section of tube and tried to let the solder flow onto the hole.

I think I found that getting the surface too hot just makes the solder ball up and roll right off, so there seemed to be a fine line between wiping out whatever solder I got to stick in the first place, and it being too cold for the solder to flow.

I tried using flux paste on the surface before soldering; what is that supposed to do?

Are there any other tips? Suggestions as to effective soldering technique? I was able to solder the brackets to the tanks (they had come off on both sides), but I think that was more luck and sheer volume of solder than any real skill. I would like to learn this technique for trail-repairs, though.

In the end, I put the torch aside and called Discount Radiators to send me a new 4-row for my GW. I also picked up a good spare radiator today, which might need some work (some tubes are dented, providing me opportunity to put any tips you might have into practice), in exchange for my GW's hood ornament. Anybody got an extra hood ornament they can spare? smile.gif

[lou]

the trick is clenliness, area has to be super clean

[Bob Barry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lou:
the trick is clenliness, area has to be super clean<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I thought I had cleaned it well; I hit it with brake-cleaner, then quickly blow-dried it with an air-gun. Wire-brushing the tubes is really not practical without wiping out the adjacent fins.

Any trick cleaner for getting the spot ready to accept the solder?

[Lugnut]

A local radiator shop guy who has spent 30+ years in the business told me that AMC didn't use very good quality brass in their radiators so they tend to continue to stress crack everywhere you have one patched. He says the metal fatigue is more prevalent in these radiators than some others, although many of the manufacturers are guilty of making poor radiators at one time or another. I've had the radiator patched in my '83 J-20 twice and it still leaks in the same spot. I've had other radiators patched by this guy so I know he does do good work.
I've just ordered a new radiator for my truck since these rads. are pretty rare birds and there's gonna come a day when I can't get a new one, will be stuck with this old one and no way to get it to end the problem. I'm "biting the bullet" now at $197. and hopefully eliminating a future problem say 10-15 years from now. I consider this a good price for this unique oversize radiator. I don't know of any other vehicle that will interchange.

[River Beast]

Bryant,

Down on the corner for Arizona Ave and 16th st is Apple Radiator( where the U-Hauls are at)... he did my fix on 7 seven small leaks for $18 while I waited....

Great old guy... wife is alittle... well ya know..... just deal with him if you can :D

[Careful34]

you can try cutting the tube, fold it back a few times and crimp it closed real tight. I did this a lot on an old Subaru I had. You lose one tube, but the leak is stopped. Gives you time to find another radiator.

[kreb]

i used jb weld before and it worked well. but i would make sure to , especially in the cooler temps, to let it cure for as long as possible. the first i used it i did not, and it did not holdpresure for long.

benjamin