View Full Version : How to repair floor pan rust - See pic
79_Limited
03-07-2004, 10:24 AM
http://www.nillah.net/Rust.JPG
I'm pulling up the old carpet in the Wag to start prepping for the new carpet. I find this in the drivers side floor pan which is no surprise.
What are the best methods to fix this rust?
Can this be fixed without welding?
Greg
[ March 07, 2004, 05:24 PM: Message edited by: yumyum ]
4x4n In A Cherokee In Colorado
03-07-2004, 10:48 AM
Ill be doing a post on installing floorpans and using Duramix Glue which is crash tested and insurance approved..Many bodyshops are now glueing replacement panels on instead of welding..
Gembox, here on IFSJA will sell you the new floorpans..He makes them himself and they look like a nice part..Good prices also!!
My series of posts is Questions on Bodywork/Painting Cont..It will be a few weeks till I get to that, so stay tuned.. Carey
DrveJeepDrnkBeer
03-07-2004, 11:00 AM
Well on my Wag I used:
Old street signs (NOT stolen of course)
Bondo, LOTS of bondo
Sheet metal screws
And cheap spray on bedliner
It's still holding up!
Bryan
talntar
03-07-2004, 11:10 AM
good news is you now can get to the blind nut for the body mount there.lol
Mikel
03-07-2004, 11:24 AM
It would be a good idea to survey the area and determine the extent of the damage. You might get away with a small patch panel.
Rande
03-07-2004, 01:24 PM
Metal can be pop-riveted in place, the entire area spayed with rust converter, then fiberglass over the whole thing to seal it.
When I repaired the floor in my J10, I cut out the rusted area, used a drill with a steel wire brush to remove the remaining surface rust, went over it all again with a sander with a flapper disc, welded in the patch panels, then sprayed the whole floor (including the new patches) with the converter, fiberglassed over most of the floor, then painted the whole mess. It was sealed, treated, painted and solid.
Since welding is out, just pop-rivet the metal in. I went to a local HVAC shop and got some scrap sheetmetal from them. Once you have it all in, get underneath and coat the repair with some undercoating to protect and seal it. There will be an overlap where the patch is placed over the floor and that needs to be sealed or you will have crud collecting there.
Amc71601
03-07-2004, 11:30 PM
On mine I had a hole under the gas pedal and I just sprayed the area with rust converter and used aluminum diamond plate after I installed a drain plug in it and used sheet metal scews and it worked fine But if you prep it right fiberglass would work just as good if not better
[ March 08, 2004, 06:33 AM: Message edited by: 76Cherokee ]
tanggod
03-08-2004, 12:44 AM
I replaced all of the floor in the front and rear passenger areas in my 80 wag with some lighter gauge sheet metal from a local metal shop in Atlanta. I want to say it was around 16 gauge, but I could be off by a few. It was light enough to be cut by an pneumatic nibbler, but not too heavy to be difficult to work with. I cut out all the rusted out floor, cut out cardboard patterns to fill the holes, and used them to make replacement panels. Secured everything with sheet metal screws and was very happy with the results. I didn't mess with fiberglass or undercoating at the time, but if I had to do it over again, I probably would.
Sheet metal and screws will work just fine if you're not up North in the salt.
79_Limited
03-08-2004, 03:20 AM
Originally posted by tanggod:
I replaced all of the floor in the front and rear passenger areas in my 80 wag with some lighter gauge sheet metal from a local metal shop in Atlanta. I want to say it was around 16 gauge, but I could be off by a few. It was light enough to be cut by an pneumatic nibbler, but not too heavy to be difficult to work with. I cut out all the rusted out floor, cut out cardboard patterns to fill the holes, and used them to make replacement panels. Secured everything with sheet metal screws and was very happy with the results. I didn't mess with fiberglass or undercoating at the time, but if I had to do it over again, I probably would.
Sheet metal and screws will work just fine if you're not up North in the salt.Thanks for all the info guys.
Tangod,
We have a very active FSJ group here in Atlanta.
www.gfsj.org (http://www.gfsj.org)
We do trail rides, wrench-a-thons and general get togethers on a regular basis.
Greg
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