View Full Version : Trac Lok or Weld
06-08-2008, 05:14 PM
I am just about ready to go on my wagoneer:dancingbanana: . The rear end has a trac lok, but a welder says he can weld it for $100. He has welded many because he drive n a circle track. I was tightening up the spacers and I was able to turn the axle with out much pressure:thumbsdown: . I will drive it on the street every once in a while maybe 3 times a month. I can live with a some tire wear and barking tires but I can't live being stuck in a mudhole with only one tire spinning or trying to rock crawl with only one tire spining :banghead: . In the distant future I plan on a detroit locker, but just the locker alone for a sterling 10.25 in close to $600 not counting the install :eek: .
06-08-2008, 05:45 PM
The trac-loc is not worth rebuilding. Just weld it up. Just know that the street handling will be really effected. Especially in rain or snow. But offroad, the welded up rear will be *WAY* better than the trac-loc (even if rebuilt).
06-08-2008, 05:58 PM
weld it. on road driving will be different but if the guy that will be doing the welding does a really good job, you might never have to worry about changing it out for a detroit.
06-08-2008, 06:14 PM
Yeah, weld it..
What kind of tires are you running? If you have bias plys, you might not even cherp around turns.
06-08-2008, 06:45 PM
I agree. Weld it. There is a reason they call them "Trash Lock". You won't see much snow or ice in TX anyway I'm guessing. Just be easy on the corners when it's raining, or she might get away from you.
06-08-2008, 09:07 PM
You can get a lockright locker for the trac-loc case. I think it would be the best route to go with. You will keep your streetability and not spin a tire in the air. The money you save on tires will far exceed the cost of the locker. Lockrights are cheap and last quite a while, while tires will not with a welded diff. Spooled axles are extremely hard on axle shafts also, so also take that thought into the cost of the locker.
06-08-2008, 09:42 PM
Powertrax sells No-Slip lockers for the trac-lok case, but not standard Lock-Rights (no-slips are more $$$). I welded my open diff rear, as already stated its no good in snow or ice but big tires with plenty of siping in the treads does just fine on curvy wet roads. :thumbsup:
Honestly other than tight curves such as parking or turning 90+ degrees, I can't tell that its welded. Until I get it off road, where it really shines. :)
06-09-2008, 02:48 AM
$100 to weld it? WOW. I would look around..Takes about an hour for the entire process..
Drain fluid, unbolt pan, spray er down with brake cleaner, weld spiders (I added in metal plate too), rtv pan, bolt, fill.
06-09-2008, 05:18 AM
I had thought about maybe getting a lock rite for it but those are really expensive, and on top of that I you need an open carrier, and the wrecking yards out here aren't exactly giving those away either. Total it would come out to be close to what a Detroit costs.
06-09-2008, 06:26 AM
[quote=-Bluegill-]Powertrax sells No-Slip lockers for the trac-lok case, but not standard Lock-Rights (no-slips are more $$$). I welded my open diff rear, as already stated its no good in snow or ice but big tires with plenty of siping in the treads does just fine on curvy wet roads. :thumbsup:
Bluegill is right about the no slip locker. They don't sell the standard lockright for the trac loc case, but they do have an insert locker for the trac-loc case called the "no slip locker"
If you can live with tire wear and don't mind how it feels around corners weld it up, It sure is a lot cheaper in the beginning. I was just thinking about tire wear, because I have Iroc swampers that have already shown wear from having a detroit locker in the rear, and I only have 1000 miles on them.
Hope this helps, but in the end it's your decision.
06-09-2008, 08:18 AM
...but a welder says he can weld it for $100...
Wow, I completely missed this - who does this guy think he is, Jesse James or something? That's more than some attorneys charge per hour! :eek: Youngjeeper is right, mine actually took 45 minutes because i used a shellac'ed gasket instead of rtv. Used 5 rods of 3/32" 6013 with ~100amps AC. Believe me, the welds AIN'T gonna break - welded the spiders at all 4 meshing points & welded the side gears to the carrier. :D Since I did a "poor man's" 2wd conversion on my QT - sometimes when the TH400 goes into gear (more like BANGs into gear), both 36" Iroks bark. :)
06-09-2008, 09:31 AM
trail mule - See if you can find a local wheeling forum and start talking to some of the guys on there. I'm sure that someone will be willing to do it for less if not free.
Fellow wheelers are the nicest bunch of guys and gals you will ever meet.
09-04-2009, 12:55 PM
I finally went through with it! :D I listened to the poll and I welded my Trac lok. I drove it back from the welding shop :fsj: which charged me $40. It doesn't handle bad at all :thumbsup: . I screech the tires on turns but it isn't unbearable. This weekend I am going to try to go to Trees Ranch offroad ranch for the King of Trees tournament and to ride :fsj: some trails and see how well it does.
09-08-2009, 09:34 AM
A hundy for a welded diff isnt out of line considering its....
his electric bill
his shop time
he might make $20 out of the deal
09-08-2009, 10:37 AM
Right out of the bat cave archives! $40 is a good deal. Did that include axle lube? :whistle: Just sayin, it got fresh gasket and lube right? :) I mean, I have re-used QT fluid and just not pour the last bit in that has grime in it. ;)
09-08-2009, 01:03 PM
Another option is a mini spool. They are all over ebay for $50 - $100 (max). And are removable.
Much better option than welding IMHO.
09-08-2009, 02:12 PM
Remember, if you use chlorinated brake cleaner, to really let it dry for a while before welding on it.
The fumes will mess you up bad.
09-09-2009, 01:22 PM
I thought $40 was pretty good. I did put new diff fluid in it and I do agree that the fumes are killer. I almost suffocated. Going around turns now is a little bit noisy but the advantage that I have now of knowing that not just one will be spinning is awesome. I had the rear tires half way burried in a soft pond bed and I would walk out like nothing at all was there. I did look for a mini spool but they don't have any for the sterling 10.25 out of a ford. This is just temporary till my wife is out of Nursing school then I will look for either an ARB or Electric locker if they have one for this axle.
09-30-2009, 11:13 AM
FYI, trac lok only engages when you have a tire spinning and partially apply the brakes. That's what engages it so it feels like it's open otherwise.
10-01-2009, 10:11 AM
Thats great information but the trac lok was not cutting it offroad. Specially with 37's as soon as one tire caught traction the other one with out traction would be the one spinning. That is why I decided to weld it up.
10-01-2009, 10:35 AM
Any pics of the welded carrier? Gonna do mine this winter.
10-01-2009, 12:33 PM
No unfortunately i don't have any pictures of it. But llet me tell you it works awesome! I definately recomend it. I have driven it on the street, and yes it does bark around the corners, but not that bad. I even pulled a flat bed trailer full of hay that weighed about 3,500 lbs, not including the trailer, and it did fine. Just take it slow around the corners, but I didn't build it for street manners.
12-31-2009, 01:07 PM
One technique I have done in the past with a limited slip carrier:
- Measure that space between the axle spider gears.
- Measure the distance between the pinion spider gears
- Find a piece of block steel that is slightly wider than the space between the axle spider gears and less than the pinion spider gears
- Drill a hole for the pinion shaft (cross shaft) on the pinion spider gear side
- The wider side will need to be tapered so you can wedge into the carrier. Hammer the block of steel in. The block will then push against the drive spider gears causing them to bind. This will then "lock" the axles together resulting in an effective limited slip. You adjust the strength by the width of the block of metal.
- There is very little additional load as it is using the stock parts and only puts more pressure on the clutches. Now the clutches will not wear.
Worked great for me and I had no issues with the carrier, both tires spun together even when one tire was in the air. Sold the truck two years later and it was still working like the first day I put it in.
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