Ok, Which type of Paint?

[Oracle]

Allright, just about ready to start planning my paint on the 86 project GW. I'll pass on the durabak/ herculiner stuff. I'm going to want a high gloss and 'vibrant' blood red that has some decent abrasion resistance and can be touched up.
I'm semi familiar with the Imron stuff, good finish and all that, but expensive as hell. Lacquer's would seem out of the question on a durability basis wouldn't they? I'll be doing most of the prep sanding etc. I anticipate having to touch up foliage type scratches periodically.

Any and all suggestions/recomendations deeply appreciated.

[The Preacher]

While you are on the subject, how much paint would be needed for a fsj 2 door chero?

It's on my list but not until everything under the hood gets taken care of. Just curious.

[J20 project]

Oracle, GEMOBX/77/401 just turned me on to a supplier for several different types of paint at www.autobodysupply.net (http://www.autobodysupply.net) and they seem to be priced better than anyone I've seen. Just went through all of the normal parts houses and their prices/types. I've gone w/ acrylic enamel and am just about done. I'll reply back on how it shot. Gary seems to swear by these guys. The acrylic I've already shot is great. One color to go.
J20 project

[Oracle]

I'll check this site out, thanx. Keep me posted on your progress. Thanx

[J4GRAND]

I had mine done in a single-stage enamel and love it! I do some backwoods cruising through the trees and can get the fine scratches out with no problem. Even scraped a tree with the right rear flare one day and was able to rub the scratches out.

[CJ5]

I painted my CJ myself. I had no prior experience but it came out great. I used acrylic enamel also. The choice was based on the ease. It is a tough durable paint and the application is pretty straight forward. I was told it is the easiest to use for a newbie. I can also be recoated at anytime which made touch-ups easy. I basically used a metal etch on metal surfaces, followed by jet-seal primer which is a nonsanding primer, then the acrylic enamel. I basically used two-three coats of each. I think I ended up getting 1quart of the etch 2 quarts of the primer and 3 quarts of the paint. The spec sheets on each gives you all the info you need.

[Ralph]

We painted truck with DuPont ChromaBase paint and Nason clear.

[ May 21, 2002: Message edited by: Ralph ]</p>

[Panther]

I think I'm going to get the paint from autobodysupply but I have a question first.

I have someone that will paint my scrambler and clear coat, I just have to come up with the paint.

I had a friend ask about the $29 a gal stuff from the shop that painted his jeep and he believes that paint "is refered to as nasson...its lead based, no tints....fades out, over time". The stuff he suggests is chromabase (medium quality)in red runs about $400-$500 a gallon! No friggen way I'm paying that much but want a good paint job.

Any thoughts?

[Johnboy]

There is a Single Stage Urethane that came out several years ago...Deltron Single Stage, no clear hence the single stage...It is harder than enamel...(yuck enamel peels to easy) I think PPG is the manufacturer, but not sure. I did several cars with it. It is as easy to spray as laquer if you screw up, just sand out your blems with 600 grit, and spray again. You can touch up by overspraying with reducer. I have always had good luck with it shooting in a shop, no paint booth. I DFW Texas the supplier would be English Color supply. Good luck!
John

[Oracle]

Johnboy? how toxic is that stuff, I've heard some very bad things about urethanes. I know the guy who shot imron on my boat wouldn't let me in the building.

[82wagonlimtd]

I personally like Spies & Hecker, it seems to be a great paint for everything. and you just need a good reducer, like Rubberseal. also the Rubberseal clear is great as well, but I usually use Nason because it is cheaper.

Andy

[gr8lite]

Check out your local Mack truck dealer. "Mack" paint is very good and thier prices are usually pretty decent. I think Mack uses Kirker paint.I used to work at a Mack dealer , alot of body shops used to buy paint from us. I work a truck body building shop and we use Mack paint quite a bit. Thats my 2 cents worth.

[Lugnut]

Lacquer paint prices have just about gone out of site because of environmental concerns and you're right -- it just doesn't have good durability. I had my truck painted with two-stage urethane and it appears to be a very durable paint. Don't have an idea about cost per gal. since it was included in the price for the whole job.
Whatever kind you choose, get plenty of info on it and don't skimp on the price of a high quality respirator and USE IT PROPERLY. These new paints can make your wife a widow in short order if you're not careful what you're breathing.

[J20 project]

Oracle, well my paint job has turned interesting to say the least. I never have received my paint from Autobody supply yet. UPS has rerouted it to h*&&& and back and still no show. I ended up buying more paint locally from a DuPont dealer and wouldn't you know it, it was the Nason brand you guys are talking about. What I did find was that the Nason acrylic enamel was reasonable in price and shot just like any Acrylic enamel I've ever used. I thinned it to a bit less than 5secs in a viscosity cup and it shot beautifully. Glassed right over and blended well. One way or another, if you use those guys for paint, order early, like 2-3 weeks. My paint job turned out great, we'll see how it lasts. Pics to follow on my pic page. J20