View Full Version : Edelbrock Carb and Intake Upgrade
Michael
10-08-2001, 02:56 AM
Well the job is complete. Overall an easy task. This is what I found. The biggest PIA is I had 10 lbs of carbon build up under the heat sheild, and around my pushrods. Took 3 hours just to chip that away. None of the bolt holes matched up to the brackets. Had to make many of the holes on the brakets larger. Without going into too much detail it was pretty simple but you have to pay attention to the small details.
Truck runs great. No more Ping Ping when I mash the pedal. Just go,go. It starts easier, better low end and top end torque. And when pulling my trailer, cannot feel it pulling me... Anyone thinking of doing it, It to me so far is worth the money. It took me about 7 hours. If you do not have all the carbon build up probably a 4 hour job.
SAR-4800
10-08-2001, 03:13 AM
I thought it to be fairly simple as well... if it hadn't for the beer that I spilled down the oil holes to the camshaft or the tangle with the valleypan gasket (got gashed pretty good), it would have been almost fun.
I cussed a awful lot that day. redface.gif
Cool! That is what I was planning on doing to my wagon this winter. What would it take to convince you to help me out with my upgrade?
Michael
10-08-2001, 06:02 AM
Anytime Derf.... You are only about 20 minutes from me....Sounds like fun. E-mail me at my home address when you are ready. We will knock it out.
Stuka
10-08-2001, 07:18 AM
ya it isnt alll that tuff.
I grouped this together with a whole weekend project. I replaced u-joints, wire wheeled rear drive line and repainted it, took off both dif covers and wire wheeled and painted them, did theintake and carb, and sanded and painted 4 of my rims. And have it all back together before monday roled around because its my daily driver smile.gif
Awesome. Just one question. Besides the manifold, carb, gaskets and throttle bracket, what is needed for the swap? I'm going to start acumulating parts and when I have them all, we can dig in any time.
Michael
10-08-2001, 08:54 AM
Derf this is what I needed.
1406 Edelbrock Carb-Summit
3731 Intake Manifold-Summit
Manifold Gasket Set-Summit
Manifold Bolts-Summit
One tube of Red Hi temp silicone
3ft of fuel line
If you have not replaced any vaccum line you may want to buy about 5-6ft and we can replace as we go.
Accelerator Bracket, I used one of those chrome pretty ones worked great.
Do not worry about the tools I have everything.
195 degree thermostat and gasket
EGR Gasket
New Fuel Filter
PCV Grommet
I am sure I left something out.
When you are ready we can go get the local stuff and I can look at your rig to see if there will be anything else. Let me know.
Michael
10-08-2001, 08:56 AM
Also,
Something else
Hose clamps... Small and medium is the best whay I can describe them.
About 10 of them all together
Simontrips
10-08-2001, 10:09 PM
I am in the process of doing the same upgrade.I got a performer intake that was used,took it to the machine shop for bead blasting,got it back and was not happy with the job so I ended up painting the intake anyway.I had problems with the heat shield,I did not have the little rivets so I tapped the holes out on the intake and used 10-32 screws with j b weld to insure no backing out.I also had to trim the heat shield down a little.I should have the edelbrock 600 cfm installed today.what probs did you have with the valley pan?
Michael
10-09-2001, 01:31 AM
I had to trim my heat sheild also... About the valley pan.. I did not use it. I was told to use it by the forum. It look to me that it was used to collect carbon build up from the egr and the pcv system. Well the edelbrock intake dispenses all of that throught the exhaust. I did not see why it should have been used. Mine was in bad shape also. I could not have reused it anyway. Tried to find one locally and could not. So I do not know the exact reasoning behing the pan, and if anyone knows the pro's and con's please let me know.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Michael:
Derf this is what I needed.
1406 Edelbrock Carb-Summit
3731 Intake Manifold-Summit
Manifold Gasket Set-Summit
Manifold Bolts-Summit
One tube of Red Hi temp silicone
3ft of fuel line
If you have not replaced any vaccum line you may want to buy about 5-6ft and we can replace as we go.
Accelerator Bracket, I used one of those chrome pretty ones worked great.
Do not worry about the tools I have everything.
195 degree thermostat and gasket
EGR Gasket
New Fuel Filter
PCV Grommet
I am sure I left something out.
When you are ready we can go get the local stuff and I can look at your rig to see if there will be anything else. Let me know.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Alright. I have my shopping list. I've even been out pricing parts. :D
Just one question, why did you go with the non EGR carb? Edelbrock makes the #1400 that has provisions for EGR. Is that not needed for the AMC EGR setup?
Michael
10-09-2001, 05:32 AM
Derf-
I went with what they told me I needed. I think and I am unsure. But I did ask "Mike" my mechanic friend he said that the EGR on this does not run like GM. It is run off of just vaccum and it goes through the intake. I know that some have a " heat tube" that will run from the Carb to the EGR and then From the EGR to the Exhaust. And that on the stock 2150 it only runs off of vaccum also. But from my understanding that the EGR manifold is what is recomended to make the EGR function properly and of course the vaccum line. I could be wrong, but where we live and the emissions standards you probably should make sure I am correct before you buy. If I am wrong then I will be driving to Tyler once a year to get my wag inspected...LOL Another thing you might need is a carb spacer. I am running into some vapor lock. The Amc gets too hot and is boiling the fuel in the carb. Causing hard starts when it is warm. I will let you know if that is true or not. Still getting some of the bugs out.
JOECOOL
10-09-2001, 08:15 AM
Michael,
I had hard warm starts with my AFB too. I cured it by adjusting the choke coil cap a little more to the lean setting. The coil would close up too soon when parked for a short while.
But still get the spacer. Mine idled better on hot summer days in traffic when I put a plastic spacer.
Michael
10-09-2001, 08:25 AM
JoeCool-
Where did you get the plastic spacer?? And how thick was it? I bought an aluminum 1" today. I adjusted my choke to a leaner setting and it made it even worse. I adjusted it richer today and it seems to be better.
JOECOOL
10-09-2001, 11:13 AM
Try AutoZone, I see them there a lot.
But find one with the bigger holes as some wont let the secondaries open all the way.
I got mine from Ebay and the 4 bore holes were a little bigger than the regular ones I've seen.
Richer, leaner. Depends where the starting point was. Bought my AFB used off Ebay so I had to rebuild it.
Ralph
10-09-2001, 11:31 AM
Michael, Derf, just thought I'd pop in on your brief discussion about the 1400 vs. 1406. Michael is correct about the EGR; however, the Edelbrock 1400 and Carter AFB 9635 also have a port for purging vapors from the charcoal cannister. This is why they both have C.A.R.B. exemptions for 1980-earlier GM small blocks.
Michael
10-09-2001, 02:10 PM
Ralph-
Thanks for the info... I am glad you confirmed that. That is what I thought but was not 200% sure.
JoeCool-
Bought a Square bore aluminum spacer today. I will put it on this weekend. I did somemore tunning tonight. Also bought a tach so I could get the idle timing mixture correct. Sure is running much better. We will see how it works tomorrow.
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