new FSJ owner

[MoJp]

I have just purchased a 1979Cherokee Chief Sport with the 360, TH400, Quadratrac, and Dana 44 axles. Where can I get that big cross pin in the transfer case? I have 2 cases both with the same proble. The previous owner liked to ride with his hand on the shift lever and hit bumps in fwd and shifted to rev. Both cases have the broken cross pin.

[reddog]

Welcome Mo!! Have you checked the link on the main page?? Go here:

http://www.ifsja.org/sources/index.shtml

There are quite a few QTs around here, hopefully someone can be of more help than I.

BTW - try being more specific in the title of your posts, you may get better response.

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock (but it looks like RiverBeast when I'm sleeping)
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 13, 2000).]

[River Beast]

Welcome Mo!!!!

Gotta Q for ya....

Are you referring to the center xshaft of the center diff of the QT( holding the 2 spider gears to the brakecones)?

WOW!!! if you are... I have NEVER seen that happen! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/eek.gif

IF you don't know already (since you are new to the Forum) The QT is quite a different breed compared to a "normal" T-case.

Here are some things that seem to be the problem areas of the center diff:

1. Splines - check ALL splined sections of EVERY parts.... ESPECIALLY the inner spline of the fwd and rear brakecones. These seem to give way much soon than other splines. These are the parts that interact with the output shafts within the center diff. Make sure they are all nice and triangular shaped with no "rounding" of the splines. If one is worn, you 'll be sure to oticed what I mean.

2. Check the splines of the connecting output shafts as well. I have rebuilt 2 QT's with these two major problems and diagnosed one here on the Forum with one of these tow problems.

3. check for scoring in the center diff body where the brake cones wear into. Watch your fingers!!! These burrs can be as sharp as razors. check the Brakecones for the same. You can remove soem burring with emory cloth or a 400-600 wet/dry paper (I prefer wet). Just do it evenly.

3. The E-Drive shifting fork - make sure the nylon tabs are intact and not worn to the extreme. MAKE SURE YO PUT THIS IN PROPERLY.... if you removed it... it's offset to one side.

4. Drivechain - kinda hard to chack outside the case, but try twisting it.... should go very far at all. Best to check it insdie the case at the check hole. With the case in proper mounting position, remove the chack hole plug from bottom of angled side. stick a screwdriver all the way into the hole firmly against the chain. index the screwdriver with your finger at the case and retract it slowly until you BARELY feel the chain on the tip. The gap between your finger and case should be no more than 1/2"... if so, get a ne chain...

Once you get back to me on the answer to your question.... I may be able to help you out....

Again welcome to the Forum... the best bunch of people on the planet!!!!

------------------
Todd
78 Wagoneer, "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's
7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
My E-mail: monster_fsj@hotmail.com
"If you can't stop...SMILE as you go under!"

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"

[River Beast]

Sorry for the 2nd post... but I don't think the damage caused is from the fwd-rev action... this action would have stripped out splines long before breaking that pin...if it's the pin I referenced....

I am assuming at this point you have the QT unit apart, yes?

------------------
Todd
78 Wagoneer, "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's
7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
My E-mail: monster_fsj@hotmail.com
"If you can't stop...SMILE as you go under!"

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"

[Rob]

Welcome to the best place on the web, Mo !

If you find a source for QT parts please let me know. I'm still looking for one brakecone and centergears, or even better for a complete diff. I tried a few times here on the board but nobody could help.

I'm not sure if you can change parts for one diff into another. Some people say each diff has its own wear pattern, and if you do this you get problems. Maybe RB has a different experience?

[MoJp]

Originally posted by River Beast:
[B]Welcome Mo!!!!

Thanks for the welcome.

Gotta Q for ya....

Are you referring to the center xshaft of the center diff of the QT( holding the 2 spider gears to the brakecones)?

Yes I am.

Here are some things that seem to be the problem areas of the center diff:

1. Splines - check ALL splined sections of EVERY parts.... ESPECIALLY the inner spline of the fwd and rear brakecones. These seem to give way much soon than other splines. These are the parts that interact with the output shafts within the center diff. Make sure they are all nice and triangular shaped with no "rounding" of the splines. If one is worn, you 'll be sure to oticed what I mean.

2. Check the splines of the connecting output shafts as well. I have rebuilt 2 QT's with these two major problems and diagnosed one here on the Forum with one of these tow problems.

3. check for scoring in the center diff body where the brake cones wear into. Watch your fingers!!! These burrs can be as sharp as razors. check the Brakecones for the same. You can remove soem burring with emory cloth or a 400-600 wet/dry paper (I prefer wet). Just do it evenly.

3. The E-Drive shifting fork - make sure the nylon tabs are intact and not worn to the extreme. MAKE SURE YO PUT THIS IN PROPERLY.... if you removed it... it's offset to one side.

What is the E-drive?

4. Drivechain - kinda hard to chack outside the case, but try twisting it.... should go very far at all. Best to check it insdie the case at the check hole. With the case in proper mounting position, remove the chack hole plug from bottom of angled side. stick a screwdriver all the way into the hole firmly against the chain. index the screwdriver with your finger at the case and retract it slowly until you BARELY feel the chain on the tip. The gap between your finger and case should be no more than 1/2"... if so, get a ne chain...

One case came to me in pieces the other is still in the vehicle. As far as the one still installed, you can be in park and the jp will roll.

The case that is apart has all new parts in it. It had just been rebuilt about 2 months before. I can see the sheared pin that goes through the center diff. I can't be any more specific at the moment because I do not have the t-cas with me.

Again welcome to the Forum... the best bunch of people on the planet!!!!

Thanks again

[River Beast]

Mo,

This may be as simple as your lo range being in nuetral.... If you have lo range, there is a shift lever on the drivers side hump under your seat. ensure your not in neutral there. there is a small amount of play in the lever.... make sure its completely engaged. You may have to crawl up under and push the linkage by hand ALL THE WAY BACK toward the rear of the vehicle.
Yank on it to make sure it's locked in....

The E-Drive is the "Emergency Drive". As I stated before the QT is a unique case. This E-Drive switch, located in your glove compartment engages or locks the front and reat output shafts together for a 100% lock when you are in a wheel spinning situation. NOT TO BE USED ON DRY PAVEMENT. It's vacuum actuated thru the switch in the glove box via manifold vacuum.

The uniqueness is...it's a limited slip operating unit....constant 4-wheel action is taking place thru the QT. The center differential is just that... a differential of sorts. It transfers power accordingly to front and rear. when these QT's are properly maintained, to included the proper QT fluid, they are a GREAT case... however, thru the years of many people neglecting it and using improper fluid, they have been given a bad name. QT's are great units and if cared for, will last the life of your FSJ.

If you have any more Q's... keep posting... Make sure you look in the Tech Info section of the IFSJA home page for info. Also use the search parameter in the utility box on the mid-right side of your screen and search for "QT", "Quadratrac" and the like... this will bring you to previous posts to learn more of QT's that have been previously discussed.


godd luck....

------------------
Todd
78 Wagoneer, "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's
7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
My E-mail: monster_fsj@hotmail.com
"If you can't stop...SMILE as you go under!"

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"

[River Beast]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rob:
Welcome to the best place on the web, Mo !

If you find a source for QT parts please let me know. I'm still looking for one brakecone and centergears, or even better for a complete diff. I tried a few times here on the board but nobody could help.

I'm not sure if you can change parts for one diff into another. Some people say each diff has its own wear pattern, and if you do this you get problems. Maybe RB has a different experience?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rob,

I may be able to help you out... I have a spare QT... I haven't dug into it yet, but plan to. I wll be doing the P/T conversion in the future and won't being need a full center diff spare... give me some time...if the parts are good (brakecones) I will let you know. If there is anything else you might need for it lemme know... I may be able to help.

BTW.... there were no provision made for replacement parts for the QT center diff from JEEP from the get go. Why... I don't know... wish they had http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/frown.gif



------------------
Todd
78 Wagoneer, "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's
7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
My E-mail: monster_fsj@hotmail.com
"If you can't stop...SMILE as you go under!"

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"