All my Vacuum Lines have been removed

[rawdave]

I removed my air cleaner box and have discovered that the previous owner has removed all but a couple of the vacuum lines from the jeep. i have more golf tees than a golf course stuck in all kinds of little 2 inch rubber hoses all over my engine compartment.

is this a good thing or a bad thing?

The vacuum advance seems to be the only thing still hooked up. i can't tell if the cruise is but it does not work so i would assume it is not. anyway, please let me know your opinions

thanks
d

[Wagthe78]

I gave my two cents at "Manifold vacuum goes were?" and "messed up vacuum" two earlier posts. You could start at these topics.

What Jeep is yours, or did I miss that?

[joe]

If the smog/vac stuff is removed correctly it can be ok but the thing with golf tees everywhere sounds like a hack job and will prolly cause you some grief eventually. The smog/vac components are pretty inter-related so if you block off one thing it usually affects other components. Prolly why your cruise isn't working. I would study the vac diagram in your TSM and make sure the vital parts are getting a vac source.
But then again if it's running really good it's prolly fine. I would at least get some rubber caps(any parts store) and get rid of the stubby rubber lines with the golf tees and cap the units with female caps.

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Regards,
-joe
63 2-dr Wag, 73 J-4000, 82 CJ-8

[BobBarry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rawdave:
I removed my air cleaner box and have discovered that the previous owner has removed all but a couple of the vacuum lines from the jeep. i have more golf tees than a golf course stuck in all kinds of little 2 inch rubber hoses all over my engine compartment.

is this a good thing or a bad thing?

The vacuum advance seems to be the only thing still hooked up. i can't tell if the cruise is but it does not work so i would assume it is not. anyway, please let me know your opinions<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I second the opinion of replacing the hoses with caps, at the very least; $6 worth of caps and you're all set. Anything else just screams CHEESE!

You want vacuum advance, undoubtedly. EGR would be beneficial as well, if your carb is jetted for it (otherwise you are running too lean under part-throttle and cruise conditions). Plus I would see the benefit of a thermostatic air cleaner, with the hot-air duct from the exhaust manifold feeding warmed-up air to the carb in cold conditions (it's a driveability issue). And of course, you should hook up the feed to the vacuum resevoir ball on the firewall behind the engine, as that operates a bunch of other things (heater controls, cruise, various 4wd system switches, depending on year, etc)

If you keep those three engine controls, you may want to consider adding the thermostatic vacuum switches that the factory incorporated, again, for driveability matters. At least use the 155º two-port switch to keep the EGR from kicking in until the engine is warmed up.

Then you can add the switches that go from manifold to ported vacuum and back (the higher idle from running straight manifold vacuum at low temps helps the engine warm up quicker, and at high temps it runs the fan and the coolant faster, promoting better cooling). If not, straight ported vacuum, or manifold vacuum (pro's and cons to each) would do just fine.

Assuming there are not emissions-compliance issues at stake here...

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[rawdave]

sorry guys. 87 Grand Wagoneer stock except for thorley headers and hopefully before the weekend is out Accell distributor and ignition(300+).

Thanks for the info so far...
d

oh and no emissions garbage to deal with yet... democrats rule here but have decided to leave us be for now...

[This message has been edited by rawdave (edited December 02, 2000).]

[MonsterMash]

I guess it would depend on how your rig runs with the blocked vaccum lines. If it runs as well as mine does then by all means just tidy up the work that the last guy rigged and be happy. http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif I have virtually no emmissions either and only a Vac. Adv. line and a PCV line, a brake booster and an EGR hook-up as far as engine vac goes. The vac canisters (one little one on the fire wall and a black Dinty Moore Beef Stew (TM) can on the left fender well) are all still connected since they run components off the actual motor. Take a look at the V-8 vac diagram in the tech section and route the lines you want to keep as per that diagram. Nice and neat and simple.


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'84GW360--"Spinner"
Bigger tires and better stereo but pretty much stock
Most everything works some of the time!
1st Annual Jefferson FSJ Mud Run:

http://home.earthlink.net/~worthservices/index.html

[Gladi8r]

I got some pretty good Vacuum diagrams sent to me from Joe Schaefer. One has the extra CTO for the HeavyDuty cooling system and the other without. I would be glad to pass these along to you if you want http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif

gladi8r1971@yahoo.com

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DON

1988 GW mostly stock, &lt;---Wifey's truck (won't let me "fix it up")

1971 J-4000,Rhino Grille(to be installed)
360 CID 8.5/1 ratio 2v, 245 HP, 365 ft/lb
T-18A, Dana 20, PTO, DANA 44 (Front/Rear)
Soon to be torn down for Resto
71 Gladiator Pics (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/gladi8r1971?d&.flabel=fld2&.src=bc)

78 GW (parts truck)
360 4v Th400
Dana 44 F/R http://www.j-trucks.freeservers.com/
78 Wagoneer Pics (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/gladi8r1971?d&.flabel=fld3&.src=bc)

[This message has been edited by Gladi8r (edited December 02, 2000).]

[bignblue]

Gladi8r, would those vac diagrams apply to a '78 with a 401? I've got blocked-off hoses also and would like to have at least one thing on my Jeep resemble factory setup! Are the diagrams in e-mailable format or are they paper? I'd be interested in taking a look at them...

[Jelle]

Good question,bignblue. How come one car runs great with the complete vacume blocked and the other is not. Is that a matter of model/year?