How can we shed weight??

[Dmntxn77]

This is kind of a spin-off of this thread (what does your FSJ weigh)..
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=81628

That thread go me thinking... Where is all the weight on our Jeeps? What can we shed? I know that what we can shed will be different for many of us since we have different purposes for our rigs. BUT.. Where is the weight?

If any of you have actually weighed parts that you've pulled off, what was it, and how much did it weigh??

[Dmntxn77]

I know that the power seat motors and brackets are VERY heavy...

Also, I wonder what the top weighs (with the glass)??

How about the tailgate (on Wags and Cherokees)??

Bad A/C compressor and associated parts??

Stock cast intake manifold??

What else?????

[Ristow]

transfer case.

[Dmntxn77]

ha ha... Ok, and I assume that the motor will be next.. :lol:

I guess I should have said what can we shed without loosing the capibility of our rigs....

[Tobynine9]

i didn't weigh anything when i took it off, but my gas mileage went up pretty significantly, like 2-3 mpg, when i pulled all the interior panels, the carpet, the headliner, and the rear seat.

none of them are individually heavy but they add up.

[joe]

I'm kinda old school (bobber bike) here so take it with a grain of salt in this modern what's needed/not needed age. If weight is a major factor lose everything not needed to make it run, steer, stop.
Power windows, steering, door locks, seats-refrig/heated, power tissue dispensers, lighted vanity mirrors, talking gas gauges, radios, "your door is ajar" alarms etc etc on and on is pure 100% fluff if weight is a concern.

On the flip side are you "racing" this FSJ? If not and you have the HP and gears to do the job what's a mere 500lb of fluff when the 4 large tires you added weigh that?
IMHO Bikes performance weight: less is more.
FSJ's performance weight: gears/HP is more.

And the most critical and often conveniently ignored factor of both scenarios is the driver/rider skill.

A really good driver/rider can win with my FSJ/bike.... but I couldn't win with his. :(

[Dmntxn77]

Well, in my world, fluff consists of most of what is on your list PLUS, the top, tailgate, doors, hood maybe, inner fenders..

Not that I want to strip my FSJ down to nothing. No matter what, I want it to still look like a Cherokee Chief.. But, I know that there is extra weight hidden in corners that I dont need.. Where is it?

[Ristow]

I know that there is extra weight hidden in corners that I dont need.. Where is it?


...glovebox liner.:lol:





sorry....:o

[joe]

Not that I want to strip my FSJ down to nothing. No matter what, I want it to still look like a Cherokee Chief.. But, I know that there is extra weight hidden in corners that I dont need.. Where is it?

Sure door panels, cargo panels, lose the old fries/catsup packs under seats, drill large holes in the frame etc etc but what goal are you looking to obtain here?

Your rig is going to weigh 2.25-2.5 tons no matter what you chop assuming you really do want to keep the roof/doors/gate etc.

What's this removing "miniscule hidden weight" thing on a 2.25-2.5 ton rig going to do for you? You've put heavier running gear in, installed much heavier tires etc and now the need for eliminating weight?

I'm not ragging on you guy I just really don't understand where you're coming from or going? You wanna build a bad boy "lite/diet" version? IMHO the weight of these rigs is what makes'em work even with crappy gearing.

What's your goal here? :confused:

[drlocke]

Cut out the beer and the buffalo wings! And go and get yourself an all-wheel-drive soccer mom van such as the CRV. That's what I've done.

Seriously: These FSJ vehicles are what they are. They are not race cars. They are not economy cars. As luxo SUVs go I defy you to get more than a couple of hundred lbs out of them in trimming the fat. Then you need to start looking at the body lines, and seeing how you can re-contour things for better streamlining and correcting wind resistance. Then the FSJ will no longer be an FSJ. At that rate you might as well go out and get an AWD Chrysler minivan.

Some have "solved" their fuel economy dilemma by going diesel. It remains to be seen how long it will take to amortise the costs of such conversion against the resultant savings as reflected in the improvement in fuel economy.

I decided to stop kidding myself, and leave my Wag parked most of the time. Cheaper that way--no two ways about it. :(

[El Jefe]

not sure how much the stuff weighs but without the tailgate and window, only half doors, no carpet, no rear seat. you could for sure feel a difference in acelaration and fuel mileage with my cherokee.

[Schlagger]

Getting ready to lose the doors, tailgate and hood off the '79. I'll weigh them (now that I'm curious) when I take them off, and post the results.

[Dmntxn77]

Your rig is going to weigh 2.25-2.5 tons no matter what you chop assuming you really do want to keep the roof/doors/gate etc.....

...What's your goal here? :confused:

I do intend on getting rid of the top, the top half of the doors, and the gate...

As far as a goal... I dont really have a weight loss goal.. I am just curious what weighs what... Like the factory intake for example.. Swapping to a performance. How much weight does that save us? 25-30lbs? I have never picked up a factory intake, but I hear that they are HEAVY..


not sure how much the stuff weighs but without the tailgate and window, only half doors, no carpet, no rear seat. you could for sure feel a difference in acelaration and fuel mileage with my cherokee.

Wonder how much weight that is??

Getting ready to lose the doors, tailgate and hood off the '79. I'll weigh them (now that I'm curious) when I take them off, and post the results.

Cool.. When do you plan to do this? Soon? I will be very interested to find out how much weight you take off...

[Elliott]

Lose them heavy axles... at my place;)

[YellowJeep]

I'm not sure why, but lots of people's answers is to rip out the interior when they want to save wieght. How many riced out honda's have you seen with no doorpanels and headliner? This seems stupid to me, and most of this stuff doesn't way didly and just makes the vehicle miserable when they aren't there. The door panels are made of cardboard! IMHO this should be a last ditch effort when you have done everything else to save weight.

I'd start looking at what the manufacturers have done since our rigs were built. Plastic/aluminum intakes, aluminum heads, space saving liteweight spare tires. Don't forget about those heavy wheels and tires you are running. You can save some serious weight by getting rid of some of that unspring weight. Clean out the toolbox, spare axles, transfercase and extra parts you have in the back. How about some plexiglas windows in the back?

[waynestiles]

As mentioned above a lot depends on intended use.
What about all those heavy duty fabricated bumpers?
Do you really use a winch?
I know the drawtight receiver hitch setup on my GW must weigh a bunch, but I plan on pulling my camper trailer with it. How about the springs? I may need to respring it eventually and while I have not started studying into that yet it looks like some of the replacement spring packs might be lighter in weight, though more effective than the factory originals.
How about headers instead of the cast iron exhaust manifolds?
What about contents? Do we need to haul ALL of our tools and replacement parts ALL the time? My vehicles tend to turn into rolling tool boxes way too often

[Rednex4x4s]

Loose weight I spent alot of money to get my FSJ to the weight class she is in.Lets see .14bolt Corp.MMMM gained well alot more than I want to think.Front HD44 8 lug hmmmm atleast 50 pounds or more. suburban rear mount gas tank well if I can keep it full alot of weight,the 40 inch tires I hope to get on it after I weld about 150 more pounds of steel to it WOW my OL girl is gettin fat.
:alc:

[Dmntxn77]

I am not sure why this thread has taken one those "whats your point" turns..

I am building a wheeler, not a dragster, and I dont NEED to drop any weight from it. But, if there is easy weight to loose, then yeah, I want it gone..

Some of what I need:
1 Tons
HEAVY steel wheels to hold my HEAVY 42"s
Beefy custom bumpers with extraction points
Cage
4 Corbeau seats and harnesses

What I dont really need:
Top... (I will probably loose it this summer)
A/C and components
Steel line on my winch (synthetic will save me 30+ pounds)
Tailgate (those are HEAVY)
Full doors (lossing the top half and glass will save a few)
Factory fuel tank and skid
My dual flowmaster exhaust (will replace it with single 3")
Interior pannels/headliner/carpet/ect..


I have already ditched the heavy intake and replaced the exhaust manifolds with headers. These are the ideas that I am looking for.

Also, I agree that being such a heavy/stout vehicle helps off-road. However, I dont see how replacing unnecessary factory weight with necessary off-road equipment isnt a good idea..

AND, unsprung weight is the last thing that I want to loose. I would venture to guess that; with my wider stance and added weight from my one tons and wheel/tire combo, I have a lower center of gravity than a stock Cherokee.

I suppose that my ultimate goal is to build a bullet proof off-road rig with as much ground clearance as possible with the lowest center of gravity possible. I dont need all the fluffs and frills, but I do need basic DOT equipment...

Hope this helps shed some light on what I am after...

[FSJ Guy]

[QUOTE=waynestiles<snip> Do we need to haul ALL of our tools and replacement parts ALL the time?<snip>[/QUOTE]

Yes. :rolleyes:

The minute you leave a tool in the garage, you'll NEED it. This applies as much to wrenches as it does to my steering wheel puller in my toolbox.

[jtkelsey]

We do a lot of snow wheeling in this area (Near Rubicon) so weight is always a concern. I have owned buggies for the last 5-6 years and I drove my Scout 80 prior to that. Now I have a '78 w/t and this is easily the heaviest offroad 4x4 I have owned (I don't count the F250 as that remains the tow rig). I weighed it as pictured below except that I removed the front bumper and grill guard prior to weighing it. Total weight was 4537. This was with the 400/QT. I have already swapped to a 727/D300 and I am in the process of swapping a 9" in the rear. I'd like to get it as close to 4000 lbs as possible. Seems like rigs over 5000 when loaded become yard-art on the trail more often. I'd also like to keep the weight down so that the front 44 lives as well. More drastic changes/weight removal in the future for sure...


http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/TDOGallery/d/44385-2/DSC03057.JPG

[Ghinmi]

Assuming it's a driver and not a trail-only rig, you probably don't want a chop-top or door-less rig. Here's some ideas that lose weight without sacrificing much driveability. Most are pretty extreme for a trail rig but what the hey. :D

1. Plastic windows - everything but the windshield can easily be refitted with lexan. Lexan weighs half of glass and there's probably 60 lbs worth, so you can save 30 lbs up high on your rig. Lexan won't shatter either. :p

2. Aluminum wheels - you can save 10-15 lbs per wheel. That's 50-75 lbs total (including a spare) of unsprung weight.

3. Light tires - Some tires weigh a lot less than others. Just something to take into consideration when buying new ones.

4. Aluminum heads, intake, etc - You can lose a bunch of weight on the motor and get more horsepower to boot.

5. Aluminum t-case - If you've got a cast iron case you're giving up a lot of weight. Use it as an excuse to get an Atlas. :thumbsup:

6. Fiberglass hood - the stocker is heavy, a pin-on hood will save weight over the front to help weight distribution.

7. Manual tailgate and windows

8. Ditch the stock seats - A pair of racing buckets will save you a bunch of weight. Leave the stock rear seat but take it out for wheeling.

9. Gut the rest of the interior - Headliner, door panels, carpet, dash pad, etc., ditch it ALL.

10. Heater/ac delete - Free up weight and underhood space. The heater delete may not be practical for cold weather people though.

11. Trim delete - Your Cherokee doesn't have much but on a Wag you'd want to get rid of the roof rack, spoiler, side trim, window trim, etc.

12. Bumpers - aftermarket bumpers may be nice for protecting your rig but are often overweight. Try to find a good balance between protection and weight. If you're not going to be bashing stuff, the later stock aluminum bumpers are very light.

13. Headers - Stock manifolds are heavy. Lose weight and gain power.

14. Exhaust - Single exhaust will be lighter with only 1 muffler and tailpipe.

15. Go on a diet - If you're a bigger guy, you can lose the same amount of weight as the fiberglass hood and save $500.

16. Tools - Go through your trail tool kit and leave the stuff you'll never use at home. Of course, the next time you break down it'll be the tool you left behind that you need. :o


*edit* I took too long to put this list together and everyone else beat me to the punch. I must be slow or something. :o

[Lindel]

Doors are 40 to 50 lbs, tailgate's in the neighborhood of 65 to 70 lbs. Windshield is probably all of about 20 lbs, tailgate glass might be 10 lbs maybe. Door glass is only a few lbs each, seats are maybe 30 lbs and the seat brackets with power motor are only about 20 lbs.

Pieces by themselves aren't all that heavy, the hood is only about 25 to 30 lbs. I'd say the axles are probably the heaviest single assemblies aside from the engine. The body is where most of the weight is, even with all the easy to remove parts gone.

[JeepinPete]

If you want to save a large chunk of weight, ditch the factory drivetrain. Swap in an LS1, save around 175 lbs. Ditch the TH400/TF727 for an aluminum cased 5sp (say NV3500), another 50-75lbs. Since Jeep mostly used aluminum cased transfer cases, that would probably be a wash. Use an aluminum radiator instead of the stock brass unit. A fiberglass hood would have to save a few more pounds.

[Chrome]

The best way that I know of to lose weight on these rigs is...

1st. Go to Garys and offer to take him on a fishing trip with you buying all the beer.

2nd. Once you get him drunk tell him someone told you that there is no way Gary could ever build an all aluminum body for a FSJ at his shop.

3rd. buy several large sheets of aluminum (no not cases of beer!) But a few more 6 packs may not be a bad idea.

You should be able to lose a few hundred pounds this way but then again you may have gained a few hundred from the extra consumption of beer and food that went with it. :D

[Wagabond]

Well maybe if the average Waggy pilot was less than 250 lbs.....

The internet seems to add about 1000 lbs to every 4x4 within it.
Wags weigh about 4500 lbs with a non obese driver and 33s.; About the same as a Ford Exploder. All the 7000 lb FSJs out there will lose a good 2000lbs at the CAT scales.

[Dmntxn77]

The best way that I know of to lose weight on these rigs is...

1st. Go to Garys and offer to take him on a fishing trip with you buying all the beer.

2nd. Once you get him drunk tell him someone told you that there is no way Gary could ever build an all aluminum body for a FSJ at his shop.

3rd. buy several large sheets of aluminum (no not cases of beer!) But a few more 6 packs may not be a bad idea.

You should be able to lose a few hundred pounds this way but then again you may have gained a few hundred from the extra consumption of beer and food that went with it. :D

:lol:

[Dmntxn77]

Well maybe if the average Waggy pilot was less than 250 lbs.....

The internet seems to add about 1000 lbs to every 4x4 within it.
Wags weigh about 4500 lbs with a non obese driver and 33s.; About the same as a Ford Exploder. All the 7000 lb FSJs out there will lose a good 2000lbs at the CAT scales.

I have to agree with you here...

[Michael]

Well maybe if the average Waggy pilot was less than 250 lbs.....

The internet seems to add about 1000 lbs to every 4x4 within it.
Wags weigh about 4500 lbs with a non obese driver and 33s.; About the same as a Ford Exploder. All the 7000 lb FSJs out there will lose a good 2000lbs at the CAT scales.

Not sure what you are talking about but mine weighed before I cut my top on a "cat" scale 5475.........title says 4800 or something.

[tyrodtom]

I was out in my garage and thought of this thread. I weighed a 75 AMC 4bbl manifold, 59-60 lbs, Edelbrock Performer manifold, non egr, 18 lbs.
I weighted my J10 several years ago and come out so low, like around 3750 lbs, I had doubts it was accurate. I'll try to weigh it again this year at the track.
My truck might be even lighter now, i've added a aluminum intake and aluminum radiator, but I removed the cab exit duals, and installed a 3.5 single exhaust exiting behind the rear wheels.
My truck's pretty basic, no power windows, T15 trans, no A/C.
I think the high weights you see on some of the FSJs are from all the options and owner additions. When you add up the whole a/c system, compressor, brackets, hose, condenser, under dash unit, etc. you could easily be looking at 80 or more lbs. A 727 automatic ain't light either. One power window motor by itself isn't much, but when you consider you've got 5 of them, and power locks,all the extra wiring and probably a higher trim level too, it all begins to add up.

[Ronson]

Assuming it's a driver and not a trail-only rig, you probably don't want a chop-top or door-less rig. Here's some ideas that lose weight without sacrificing much driveability. Most are pretty extreme for a trail rig but what the hey. :D

1. Plastic windows - everything but the windshield can easily be refitted with lexan. Lexan weighs half of glass and there's probably 60 lbs worth, so you can save 30 lbs up high on your rig. Lexan won't shatter either. :p

2. Aluminum wheels - you can save 10-15 lbs per wheel. That's 50-75 lbs total (including a spare) of unsprung weight.

3. Light tires - Some tires weigh a lot less than others. Just something to take into consideration when buying new ones.

4. Aluminum heads, intake, etc - You can lose a bunch of weight on the motor and get more horsepower to boot.

5. Aluminum t-case - If you've got a cast iron case you're giving up a lot of weight. Use it as an excuse to get an Atlas. :thumbsup:

6. Fiberglass hood - the stocker is heavy, a pin-on hood will save weight over the front to help weight distribution.

7. Manual tailgate and windows

8. Ditch the stock seats - A pair of racing buckets will save you a bunch of weight. Leave the stock rear seat but take it out for wheeling.

9. Gut the rest of the interior - Headliner, door panels, carpet, dash pad, etc., ditch it ALL.

10. Heater/ac delete - Free up weight and underhood space. The heater delete may not be practical for cold weather people though.

11. Trim delete - Your Cherokee doesn't have much but on a Wag you'd want to get rid of the roof rack, spoiler, side trim, window trim, etc.

12. Bumpers - aftermarket bumpers may be nice for protecting your rig but are often overweight. Try to find a good balance between protection and weight. If you're not going to be bashing stuff, the later stock aluminum bumpers are very light.

13. Headers - Stock manifolds are heavy. Lose weight and gain power.

14. Exhaust - Single exhaust will be lighter with only 1 muffler and tailpipe.

15. Go on a diet - If you're a bigger guy, you can lose the same amount of weight as the fiberglass hood and save $500.

16. Tools - Go through your trail tool kit and leave the stuff you'll never use at home. Of course, the next time you break down it'll be the tool you left behind that you need. :o


*edit* I took too long to put this list together and everyone else beat me to the punch. I must be slow or something. :o

I've been involved in off road racing for 20 years and Ghinmi has the recipe right here! I weighed my 76 Wagoneer and with me in it(200lbs on a good day) it was 4782 with a bunch of chit in it, including a spare tire and tools, some misc. parts. Those dump scales are pretty accurate or biased on the heavy side because someone is making a living on it. If you want it much lighter there is only one thing to do



















http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa249/tommyd1963/untitled.jpg

Seriously, my Samurai only ways 2370 with 33s, steel wheels, and tools. We have actually picked up the front end and dragged it in another direction. My friend wants me to flat bed and dually my J-10 so that I can piggyback it to the trails!

[incommando]

Heavy?? I've read that a Liberty hits about 4,200 when loaded...

[Ronson]

Heavy?? I've read that a Liberty hits about 4,200 when loaded...


So do those "little Toyota trucks"...

My 2000 TJ was in the same range as a Grand Wagoneer when I was done with it, and it only had 35's.

[Dmntxn77]

1. Plastic windows - everything but the windshield can easily be refitted with lexan. Lexan weighs half of glass and there's probably 60 lbs worth, so you can save 30 lbs up high on your rig. Lexan won't shatter either. :p

Considered Lexan, but I will probably just remove most of them..

2. Aluminum wheels - you can save 10-15 lbs per wheel. That's 50-75 lbs total (including a spare) of unsprung weight.

Need steel for strength...

3. Light tires - Some tires weigh a lot less than others. Just something to take into consideration when buying new ones.

Once again.. Not a lot of options here in the style that I require...

4. Aluminum heads, intake, etc - You can lose a bunch of weight on the motor and get more horsepower to boot.

Have the intake dont want to afford the heads... :eek:

5. Aluminum t-case - If you've got a cast iron case you're giving up a lot of weight. Use it as an excuse to get an Atlas. :thumbsup:

Atlas or Monster Box are on the list.. :thumbsup:

6. Fiberglass hood - the stocker is heavy, a pin-on hood will save weight over the front to help weight distribution.

I have some trimming planned here.. I am going to remove the hinges and pin it for sure (for access not weight savings).

7. Manual tailgate and windows

Got it...

8. Ditch the stock seats - A pair of racing buckets will save you a bunch of weight. Leave the stock rear seat but take it out for wheeling.

Done; I replaced all with 4 Corbeau Baja's...

9. Gut the rest of the interior - Headliner, door panels, carpet, dash pad, etc., ditch it ALL.

Done. All but the cardboard pannels so far...

10. Heater/ac delete - Free up weight and underhood space. The heater delete may not be practical for cold weather people though.

A/C is gone, but I HAVE to keep the heater for now...

11. Trim delete - Your Cherokee doesn't have much but on a Wag you'd want to get rid of the roof rack, spoiler, side trim, window trim, etc.

No trim here...

12. Bumpers - aftermarket bumpers may be nice for protecting your rig but are often overweight. Try to find a good balance between protection and weight. If you're not going to be bashing stuff, the later stock aluminum bumpers are very light.

I am gonna be bashing it, so mine are solid...

13. Headers - Stock manifolds are heavy. Lose weight and gain power.

Have headers already...

14. Exhaust - Single exhaust will be lighter with only 1 muffler and tailpipe.

On the list.. Anyone want a true dual flowmaster 40 set-up?... :D

15. Go on a diet - If you're a bigger guy, you can lose the same amount of weight as the fiberglass hood and save $500.

Yeah, I am 230 but who knows if I will ever see 200 again.. :rolleyes2:

16. Tools - Go through your trail tool kit and leave the stuff you'll never use at home. Of course, the next time you break down it'll be the tool you left behind that you need. :o

I always take bare minimum...




Well, based on this list, I have most of my bases covered..

Plus, I am swapping in a T-18/D20 combo soon. I dont know for sure, but I would put money that this combo weighs less than the TH400/QT thats in it now...

I will take it to the scales to get numbers soon...

[Marvin Gates]

Push yourself away from the table. LOL

[Dmntxn77]

Push yourself away from the table. LOL

Whats the fun it that?? :p

[AlsChopShop]

Whats the fun it that?? :p haha, don't want to look like me? :thumbsup:

i really like the fiberglass hood idea, that would save quite a bit of weight. and once that top is gone, too... :D

Al

[Dmntxn77]

Yah know.. I wouldnt mind being long an lean.. It was just never in the cards for me..

I was 5'7" 187 in 7th grade.. When I graduated, I was just under 5'9" and 186... In the 12 years since, I have only gotten wider.. :D

And yeah, I think that loosing the top with all the glass and the tailgate, is going to be my only BIG weight loss.. I might consider trying my hand at a glass hood though.. That thing has to weigh more then Lindel's quote.. I have one out back, and if I remember I will put it on a scale tomorrow.. Of course, the glass ones still have some weight too.. Plus, I sure would be upset after I dump the Jeep on the trail and have sweep up all my hood chunks...

[AlsChopShop]

Yah know.. I wouldnt mind being long an lean.. It was just never in the cards for me..

I was 5'7" 187 in 7th grade.. When I graduated, I was just under 5'9" and 186... In the 12 years since, I have only gotten wider.. :D i'm the opposite... its just not in the cards for me to gain weight no matter what i try. both my parents were rails at my age... genetics suck sometimes! :banghead:

And yeah, I think that loosing the top with all the glass and the tailgate, is going to be my only BIG weight loss.. I might consider trying my hand at a glass hood though.. That thing has to weigh more then Lindel's quote.. I have one out back, and if I remember I will put it on a scale tomorrow.. Of course, the glass ones still have some weight too.. Plus, I sure would be upset after I dump the Jeep on the trail and have sweep up all my hood chunks... ha ha, that would suck. but if you keep the mold for the hood you can just make another hood. :thumbsup: and if ya do a good job, there might actually be a market for fiberglass hoods around here.

Al

[Rhino Racer]

Engineers didn't think this thoroughly, lead is a very heavy metal. An aluminum battery would weight about 1/4 of a lead one.

Also why do you need 30 lbs of air in the tires? If you can, run your tires at 5 pounds and you'll get rid of 100 lbs altogether.

A full tank of gas in a 19 gal tank will weigh at 120# approx. Just carry enough to get to the next gas station and that's another 100 lbs saved.

:bluelaugh: :bluelaugh: :bluelaugh:

[Dmntxn77]

Engineers didn't think this thoroughly, lead is a very heavy metal. An aluminum battery would weight about 1/4 of a lead one.

Also why do you need 30 lbs of air in the tires? If you can, run your tires at 5 pounds and you'll get rid of 100 lbs altogether.

A full tank of gas in a 19 gal tank will weigh at 120# approx. Just carry enough to get to the next gas station and that's another 100 lbs saved.

:bluelaugh: :bluelaugh: :bluelaugh:

There we go... Now we are getting somewhere... :thumbsup:

[AlsChopShop]

Also why do you need 30 lbs of air in the tires? If you can, run your tires at 5 pounds and you'll get rid of 100 lbs altogether.now that is funny.

Al

[Lindel]

But wouldn't it take the whole gas tank to get to the next station??

[Ghinmi]

A fiberglass hood shouldn't be too hard to make, especially if it doesn't have to be show quality perfect. Just cover your whole hood in a layer of duct tape (the resin won't stick to duct tape) and drape a huge sheet of fiberglass weave or mat over it and apply the resin. After the resin dries, pop the fiberglass off the hood and apply more fiberglass and resin from behind until it's strong enough. May not be a professional hood but it's cheap and looks decent. You can use this method to make other body panels too, fenders, tailgate skins, etc.

Greg

[tyrodtom]

If you go lexan just be aware you're probably going to have to be replacing it maybe even yearly in a muddy enviroment. It scratches very easily. You can get lexan with a hardened outer coating, but it costs almost 3 times as much. If the vehicle is going to be licensed for the street, lexan isn't legal in any state I know of.

[janie]

Drop your rig off at my house. Fluids have a way of disappearing when they arrive in Prosper.;)