been talking about slamming

[my 2j20's]

A j-truck for a few years..

found a donor frame finally thats' with n 1/8 inch from been the same in the front weight so i can use A frames and drop spindle's.. 84 chevy

[COLOFIREMAN]

Take a 4x4 and make it a pavement scraper!!!!

You should be http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii79/lil_angelic/slap.gif then http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n136/mgibson98/emoticons/spank.gif for suggesting sucha thing!!!








Just Kidding, I thought about doing it as well, good luck on the build and post pictures soon.:thumbsup:

[El Jefe]

go for it, love slammed vehicles.

[men in black]

Its not a J truck!!

But its a Draggin Waggon

Its a 1963 panel with some Rhinoplasty done :D

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n192/pixelhound/dsc01721m-1.jpg

Here's another one!!

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n192/pixelhound/Jeep_Cherokee_Delivery_by_Hemi_427.jpg

[tyrodtom]

^^ Noooooo! That is so wrong.^^

[BarryL]

^^ Noooooo! That is so wrong.^^

Ha, to each his own I guess. But I thought the same thing.

[El Jefe]

if that cherokee didn't have such big rims i think it very nice

[78J10honcho]

prove me wrong, but I believe the cherokee is a photoshop creation,

[CougarCJ]

prove me wrong, but I believe the cherokee is a photoshop creation,

I agree Honcho.

[El Jefe]

it maybe, but i think it looks good.

[Gambler68]

we've had a few threads about lowered wags/trucks and what could be done.

I think it'd be awesome not just to lower it, but Pro Tour it. Hot motor, 2wd conversion, set up for driving and cornering.

[fubard76cj7]

Its not a J truck!!

But its a Draggin Waggon

Its a 1963 panel with some Rhinoplasty done :D

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n192/pixelhound/dsc01721m-1.jpg

Here's another one!!

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n192/pixelhound/Jeep_Cherokee_Delivery_by_Hemi_427.jpg

photoshop or not,that is a sweet rig!!:drivin: and i'm not even into that sorta thing.YET!

[billyrb]

These usually get brought up every few months or so. Black one with scallops is a photochop by a buddy of a guy here. In order to have it dropped down w/o exhaust or other clearance issues, you have to swap out the front axle. Once I can save a few bones I'll have my front axle pumpkin removed and have a straight-tube welded in. This will give the clearance necessary to drop it down a bit. The good thing about this is that it runs around $400-$600, and you can always buy a used regular axle to drop back in if you ever decide to lift it back up.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Boo-Yaa

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e397/maynard1992/Slammedtruck.jpg

:thumbsup: :cool:

[Ghinmi]

In order to have it dropped down w/o exhaust or other clearance issues, you have to swap out the front axle. Once I can save a few bones I'll have my front axle pumpkin removed and have a straight-tube welded in. This will give the clearance necessary to drop it down a bit.

You won't be able to get much lower by removing the pumpkin. I've been measuring clearances before I swap in my tube axle and you'll hit the frame before you get pumpkin clearance issues. At stock ride height there's only an inch or so between the bump stops and axle. If you get rid of the stops you can get a little lower but not much. You can't notch the frame either because the motor mounts are right there. You'd need a drop axle or independent suspension to get any noticeable drop out of it.

Greg

[fulsizjeep]

chopped?
http://frontier.net/%7Emystkblu/choppedchief.jpg

or chopped?
http://frontier.net/%7Emystkblu/choppedcherokee.jpg

:drivin:

[dusty72]

Hello all...newby here.
I was thinking about going up with my 86 wag,(stock) but gotta admit lowered looks good...It's a good thing sleet, snow,rain & thunderstorm within 1 hour is changing my mind!!!

[my 2j20's]

The pic heavy metal posted was posted by me a long time ago i may even had jeepfreak post it.. & thats what i am building..all that's left of amc is the body, even the color's will be as the pic.

someone here even took it to photoshop and chopped the top on it..making it look really slammed..

[El Jefe]

i think our jeeps have the perfect lines for being lowered.

[DanHS]

Before lowering something until it's nearly dragging on the ground, I'd think of dropping it just 2 or 3 inches, getting the suspension and steering smoothed out, and bringing the COG as low and centered as possible by moving everything possible down and between the frame rails. Keep it fulltime 4wd (so QT or NP229) for the added grip, put on big brakes and wide sticky tires, hack off any offending sheetmetal and tub any problematic areas of the fenderwells. Then you'll have something that'll be perfectly at home on twisty roads, without having to worry about bumpy or rough roads, or bad weather. That's the way I look at it anyways. Of course I have a car for enjoying the road, and a Jeep for enjoying the offroad and handling the bad weather, so a roadbound Jeep is kinda like forcing yourself to start behind, it's a neat idea and always fun to have, but still starting from way behind. Now maybe if you were to come up with a linked suspension and airbags to transition between lowered and lifted, and ran some 32-ish a/t sorta tires on 17" rims, then you might be pulling ahead there...

[men in black]

You won't be able to get much lower by removing the pumpkin. I've been measuring clearances before I swap in my tube axle and you'll hit the frame before you get pumpkin clearance issues. At stock ride height there's only an inch or so between the bump stops and axle. If you get rid of the stops you can get a little lower but not much. You can't notch the frame either because the motor mounts are right there. You'd need a drop axle or independent suspension to get any noticeable drop out of it.

Greg

Couldn't you channel the floor and tubb the rear wheel wells,
tubb or remove the front inner wheel wells. To get the same lowered
look?( the old lead sled way) I know this is extreme

If you remove the (about 2 inches) rubber frame to body insulators and
and replace them with 1/2 inch nylon insulators. you're lowering the
body and the frame stays at the same height.
(I don't know if you can do this on a FSJ)

I did the above to my 1979 Z28 with a Herb Adams Cafe kit.
also put on some Dunlops L and H series tires on it, to lower even more!!

[Zorm]

how ever you drop it, I have liked that first drawing since I saw it. Its not just some one slamming an FSJ, its got class, like a "retro" look.

I think if some one can do that one like it is, that would be a real classy eye turner:D and actually get some respect from the "hot rod" crowd if done like those older rods folks build.

just my .02

[Towtruck]

Here's a three inch drop at the front end and saggy springs at the back. Not really slammed, but about as low as it will go and still keep 4wd. Gets the front end down instead of the rear...

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/bittersc/DSCN2698.jpg

[billyrb]

Ghimini, on mine the exhaust is currently 1/2" above the pumpkin, meaning every road bump = exhaust crunch. I measured and the way my LT-1 exhaust is, I can go to a straight axle and have around 5-6" of clearance, meaning I can then drop the front 2-3" or more, as long as I use bumpstops. I doubt I'll go that low. I might just keep it at it's current height, but get rid of the exhaust-mangler (aka, pumpkin) for the time being. For the rear, you could either relocate the springs under the axle for a 5-6" rear drop, or go with some longer rear shackles to lower it a little at a time.

[Michael]

The pic heavy metal posted was posted by me a long time ago i may even had jeepfreak post it.. & thats what i am building..all that's left of amc is the body, even the color's will be as the pic.

someone here even took it to photoshop and chopped the top on it..making it look really slammed..

David, I think it is time you start doing and stop talking....LOL....You have been talking about this for years ever since I met you bud. Hope you are doing well good to see you on here.

[Schlagger]

All the problems associated with slamming our rigs should tell you one thing: ITS WRONG, JUST WRONG!! DONT DO IT!! YOU ARE GOING THE WRONG WAY! YOU ARE KILLING THE SOUL OF YOUR FSJ!! BOO! HISS!

Ok, now that thats out out of my system, they dont look half bad. :D

[my 2j20's]

David, I think it is time you start doing and stop talking....LOL....You have been talking about this for years ever since I met you bud. Hope you are doing well good to see you on here.

yeah i know!! i've had bad luck for a few years then got off into a RV bus (Flixible) they call them, and it sucked every penny i could make...check this one out.mine is a 55

You mean your still around? i figured your o-lady had you hog tied in the closet by now with 5 kids..i bit that kid of yours is half grown since i seen him...

[Ghinmi]

Ghimini, on mine the exhaust is currently 1/2" above the pumpkin, meaning every road bump = exhaust crunch. I measured and the way my LT-1 exhaust is, I can go to a straight axle and have around 5-6" of clearance, meaning I can then drop the front 2-3" or more, as long as I use bumpstops. I doubt I'll go that low. I might just keep it at it's current height, but get rid of the exhaust-mangler (aka, pumpkin) for the time being. For the rear, you could either relocate the springs under the axle for a 5-6" rear drop, or go with some longer rear shackles to lower it a little at a time.

I completely forgot you had an LT-1, I can see exhaust issues there. Maybe driver drop rigs will have clearance issues with stock manifolds also?

For the rear suspension spring under is the way to go, just for the fact that you can run bolt-on traction devices (caltracs, slapper bars, etc). If the 5-6" drop is too much, you could run the shackle flip kit to bring you back to approximately stock height. Or you could inboard your springs and run wider tires. Lots of space inside FSJ wheel wells.

Here's how the front of mine sits right now. Just saggy 2-leaf spring packs. I've got an inch gap between the tires and fender openings. If I can get another 1-1.5" lower I'll be able to get that "tucked" look. Current front tires are 27" tall, 10.5" wide.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/727000-727999/727760_218_full.jpg

Greg

[billyrb]

nice look, and I like the deep paint / wheel combo. Once I get a few other things done on the beater I'll be back working on the LT-1 to work out the suspension. With the 22's, I don't really need to drop it to get the look I want just yet. I'll drive it around for a while and do a few suspension upgrades, then consider lowering it.

[Burn Victim]

How about going the sub-frame route,Nova,Camero,Volarie-aspen,or posibly the cross-member from a full-size chevy pick-up.Any of these would also give you ifs.I have a nova out back that I had picked up so i could use the front sub frame on my 1950 IHC pick-up,so I can get some measurements off it if you like.

Adam:drivin:

[El Jefe]

i say build a whole new frame out of some 2x3 tubing. have it z'ed and make a relief for the rear axle. then channel the body and you could have that thing on the ground.

[Ghinmi]

You should be able to fit a g-body frame under there (80's cutlass, monte carlo, regal, etc.) without too much work. The wheelbase is even right. Lots of suspension goodies available for that platform too since the dirt track guys use them. I've thought about doing that with a 2-door n/t Cherokee and using my Wagoneer as a tow rig. Someday...

[billyrb]

Hardcore Pacer posted a while back about dropping in a Pacer front clip which would fit right in. The only problem is that they are 5-lug and I'd need 6-lug. Other than that, it would be a fun little project (if I didn't already have 450 other projects :))

[Gambler68]

someone here even took it to photoshop and chopped the top on it..making it look really slammed..
I super chopped that back in the other thread long ago, found it:

I think you'd have to sink the seats down below the floor for that ;)

[Tobynine9]

Lower a Wag as much as possible while still keeping 4x4, use a 229/228 or a Q-Trac and go rally racing!