Circuit breakers

[marcd]

My power seats and locks don't work . . .at all. I searched the site and it seems both are controlled by a circuit breaker. I pulled the circuit breakers in the fuse box and tested for continuity between the prongs and they seemed fine. Is this the right test to determine if the breakers are bad. Suggestions?

[Joe Guilbeau]

Doorlocks too?

If yes, the 30 amp circuit breaker is tripped, something tripped it.

Probably excessive current...

http://209.238.200.129/gw/elec/90_numeric/90-PowerDoorLocks-8W_Page-39.jpg

[marcd]

Thanks Joe - it seems as though you are THE SOURCE when it comes to all things electrical. And yes, it is the seats and doorlocks. Couple questions . . .

Once the breakers trip, are they ruined or do they reset?

How can you test if they've tripped? I just used a little fuse tester and figured that indicated current could pass. Is this right or should I look for a specific resistance.

Any recommendations as to a good place to begin with the circuit? I realize I should use a methodology and work start to finish, but I'm lazy.

Lastly, what do these breakers cost? I figure they must be similar to a flasher.

Thanks Joe (and anyone else that can help)

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by marcd:
Thanks Joe - it seems as though you are THE SOURCE when it comes to all things electrical. And yes, it is the seats and doorlocks. Couple questions . . .

Once the breakers trip, are they ruined or do they reset?

How can you test if they've tripped? I just used a little fuse tester and figured that indicated current could pass. Is this right or should I look for a specific resistance.

Any recommendations as to a good place to begin with the circuit? I realize I should use a methodology and work start to finish, but I'm lazy.

Lastly, what do these breakers cost? I figure they must be similar to a flasher.

Thanks Joe (and anyone else that can help)Circuit breakers will reset once the "offense" has been removed, generally an excessive amperage draw causes the breakers to "trip".

Something in the area of 2 to three times the current, so you probably had something like 60-100 amps running thru the circuit, so it tripped.

You can stuff a 30 amp fuse in its place and watch it blow to confirm. The circuit breakers themselves should reset once removed from circuit, they will show continuity from one terminal to another.

Your problem is downstream of the Circuit Breaker, so begin by isolating the seats, the door locks, the tailgate and the rear wiper I believe.

Looking at the "usual suspects" our No 1 Perp would be the tailgate wiring, look for pinched wires, start there...

[marcd]

Thanks Joe. The rear window works from the switch. I don't have the window key, so don't know about that switch. Haven't tried the wiper. Also, the rear squirter is missing. Sounds like tailgate might be the best bet.

Thanks again.

[Joe Guilbeau]

It ain't fixed yet, could be many things, but that is a place that I would start my investigations with, isolate and move on...you'll find it.

Buy a Sears Craftsman Model 82175 Autoranging Multimeter.

Auto Ranging, and measures 20 Amps AC/DC, has Clamp Adapter for inductive current measurements, measures Capaticance, comes with a Temperature Thermocouple and converts to Centigrade or Farienhight, Diode measurement, Ohm-meter, and measures AC/DC Volts.

Also features Data Hold, Auto Power-Off, Audible annunicator for Continuity and Diodes, even comes with a nifty LCD Backlight button for those night chores. Another feature that I like is the Meter Lead configuration, if you are in the Volts/Ohms/Temp/Capacitance modes, and try to switch and measure Amps, there is a mechanical prevent that forces you to remove the Red Lead and re-insert into the 20-amp or ma slot.

Not bad for less than $60 dollars, accuracy is not as tight as my Fluke 8060A but what is?

Get you one for Christmas, it's a good deal.