Ball Joints

[Cecil14]

Does anybody have a set of instructions for replacing ball joints? I've checked the past threads and know about the degreed shim but didn't find any actual instructions. Neither my haynes nor my chilton's give instructions on doing this. If someone could scan a manual that does or list them here that'd be great.

Thanks,
Anthony

[BigPaul]

I did the two front on my wide tract 81 chero about a month ago, what are you having problems with?

You will need a good set of snap ring pliers, and a hub socket both rentals from Autozone--around $20. If you have access to an air chisel, use it instead of the split fork pry-bar that most places try to sell you to get the ball joints and tie rod joints loose. Mine were about rusted solid and were a real ***** to get loose!! You will also need a shop press because the joints are pressed into the assembly and there is no other way to get them in or out without destroying the rubber dust boots. If you know someone with one make freinds quick!!

If you are having problems finding details on the threaded shim that goes into the top ball joint sleeve, the only thing the heavy shop manual says is that it should be flush with the top of the hole. There are also directions that come with the ball joints themselves. The alignemnt shop will set the camber/castor and the alignemnt once you get done by adjusting that sleeve. I would highly recomend getting it aligned as soon as you get done because most places will align the whole vehicle for about $80.

If you need I can list everything I did when I did them. It takes around 2hrs for both top and bottom on both sides to do it without getting in a rush. One thing I would definitley recomend is getting a new tie-rod joint--passenger side, and new locking front hubs when you do this because you will have it all apart anyway.

Let me know if you need a list of steps.


:cool: ;)

[Bob Barry]

Just to add, Autozone also rents out (for free) the ball-joint press; with an impact-gun, the press zips those balljoints on and off just fine (though a hydraulic press would be nice, it's not necessary).

The upper insert in there now is probably not offset, so the drill is to loosen the upper insert, install the steering-knuckle with the lower ball-joint taper in the lower axle ear with the nut on snug but not torqued, then tighten the upper insert to 50 ft/lbs using the special four-prong socket (Autozone won't have this tool to rent, and the counter-monkeys will likely deny its very existence; after all, they're the professionals...), then torque the bottom nut and then the top nut to spec (that spec is in Haynes).

I imagine if you left the insert flush with the top of the axle ear, the balljoints would have insufficient preload, and would wear out quickly.

[Cecil14]

Thanks guys. This isn't on my truck and I haven't started yet. We don't have an autozone around here so there isn't really any place to rent stuff from (I have a real big tool collection at this point). My dad and I are going to replace the driver's side ball joints on another guys 88 chebby 1/2 ton. It's got a Dana 44 front axle so I figured I could just use the same operation as if I was doing an FSJ. This way I don't have to go and get a book on his truck just for the ball joints (not that I'd be able to get a book around here with instructions anyway). There's a balljoint kit at the parts store here for like $100 that I was thinking about picking up. I'm sure I'll have to do mine before all is said and done anyway so I'm sure it'll get used.

Anything else is certainly welcome.
Thanks,
Anthony