GM 14 bolt in rear?

[Big Blue J-10]

Will it work :confused: How far do the spring pads have to be moved for it to match up with the jeep j10 :confused: Can I use the drums that are on it or do I have to convert it to discs(not that is a bad thing,I would just like to get it in there pretty quick) :confused:

Adam :confused: :mad: :confused:

[Big Blue J-10]

Someone HELP!! Please.

[Retro93]

Email Todd... riverbeast..he is completing a similar swap now. smile.gif

[netbear]

If I had a Jeep J10 and wanted to upgrade the axles, I would hold out for a set of matching
J20 axles, D60FF rear and D44HD front, 8 lug
variety. They are most often found with 3.73
or 4.10 gear ratios. This way they should be
a direct bolt in. A nice bonus is that the J20
brakes are bigger front and rear. J20 axles
should not be hard to find but you would want to
see which years are the best for a swap into
your J10.

[Big Blue J-10]

I had thought about the j-20 axles,but around here they are not to be found.Why I would like to use the GM 14 bolt is the fact that I have one sitting outback.If the mods to the 14 bolt are going to be very extensive,then I will continue my quest for some J20 axles.My J-10 is a 1980 so if anyone can tell me which year(s) of J-20 axles I should go with.
Adam

[Big Blue J-10]

The front "pumpkin" is on the driver side.
Adam

[netbear]

Big Blue,
Driver's side drop is a 1980 and up thing.
Should be the same for J20's, just find
one from '80 up and swap away. You should
put a post in the Wanted section as someone
may have a set for you of know where you can
get some in your area. They are out there,
I bought a set out of PA for $260.
Good luck!

[mulepic]

i put a 14 bolt in the back of my '87. they way i see it, if you do any sort of drive train swap you have to know how to weld. in which case it doesn't matter how far perches are moved.

i did have to move mine. the drums are huge you'll have to change wheels if you don't convert to disc.

[netbear]

J20 axles:
Perches ready to go.
Shock mounts ready to go.
Wheels mount right up (8lug).
Width perfect.
Front and rear axles match.
All stock front steering parts.
Brake lines all in the right location.
Easy, easy, easy. No fuss, no muss.

[tuck]

I put a 14 bolt in the rear of my 1972 wagoneer, but I don't know if I can answer all of your questions.

I left the stock 3/4 ton perches on and I just moved my leaf spring mounts (welding required)... and I converted to disc brakes, so I don't know about the clearance issues.

I agree with the previous post, if you want to do a drivetrain swap, it'll be much easier if you or a good friend can cut and weld metal...

Personally, I would rather have the 14 bolt than the J-20's dana 60. A 30 spline dana 60 isn't much stronger than the dana 44, the 14 bolt is beefy, cheap, easy to find with lower gears and lockers, and disc brakes are an easy conversion.

[Big Blue J-10]

tuck,
what do you mean "I just moved my leaf spring mounts "exactly? Isnt the 14 bolt a 3/4 ton just like a dana 60,if so than why is the 14 bolt so much stronger?
Adam

[Bob Barry]

It's more like a Dana 70. The 14-bolt has a third bearing on the pinion snout, 1.5" axleshafts and super-heavy-duty axle tubes.

[netbear]

The stock J20 Dana 60FF has a 30 spline floating
axle that is 1.32" in diameter. The Stock 14bolt
GM has a lower spline count but is about 1.5"
in diameter. On my J20 D60FF, I just bored the
spindles to accept Moser 35 spline axles that
are 1.50" diameter which are a stronger than the
14 bolt axles but cost more ($300) just for the
Moser axles. I prefer the Dana axle myself but
both will work. I was already going to put a
Detroit in my Dana axle so the cost for the 35
spline Detroit was the same anyway. The 14 bolt
detroits are cheaper as they user the OEM carrier.
Since I am putting the J-truck Dana 60FF in
a Cherokee, I'm having to move/replace the
spring mounts and and changing the shock mounts.
It is a lot of work to do it all perfectly.
That is why in my opinion, your J-10 would be
easy to upgrade with the set of J-20 axles
since all the mounts and steering just bolt up
as is and the widths are perfect as is.
Ground clearance under the diff is better with the Dana 60 also. 14 bolts are cheap, often
free and strong so lots of people use them.
They are OK but are far from a bolt in for your
J-10.

[scotty]

if you use a 14 bolt froma van,the WMS to WMS is 70",and i believe that it will fit with the drums.

kyj10 just put a single wheel pickup 14 bolt in his j10,wich is a better way to do it,as the single wheel truck axles are super common(read: "easier to find for cheap" smile.gif ) wich is a plus in the unlikely event of shaft breakage and you need to find a replacement shaft

i think its worhwhile to convert to discs in order to se the SRW axle

i run a 14 bolt in my GW,but the springs are closer together,and ive got my shocks mounted somewhat unconventionally,so i cant be of much help with the specifics of the swap into a jtruck

i run worn out 38" hawgs,and ive got almost an inch cut off the bottom of my 14 bolt. this gives me about 11" under the diff,wich is abouty 1/2" less than my front 44,and 1/2" more than the d60 my friend runs in an xj with new 37" boggers

35 spline 60s are a fine axle to run,if you have that kinda $$ to spend on shafts. boring the spindles is not really much less work than moving spring perches,IMO.

i gave $50 for the 14 bolt im runnin,and i just gave $50 for a 2nd one to use for spare parts,and to see if i can hack up the housing and gain alittle more clearance smile.gif

[ May 02, 2003, 07:25 AM: Message edited by: scotty ]