CARB trouble!!!!

[FSJj86GWyoungin]

GRRRR. i've had my GW for about 2 years now and i love to hate the thing, but don't know what i'd do without it....i got it all tuned up and everything when i first bought it, and i thought i made a big mistake, but it turns out that i love this thing morethan any other car i've ever seen, but anyway on to my question, My GW is an 86 with the 360 v-8, and i keep having trouble with the season and my carburator, my nieghbor who is so much more automotivly advanced than i am, showed me that i needed to adjust it with the seasons and i live in north carolina, so it's pretty hard to do, but ok i need to know where the proper settings are for summer and winter, if there are any, or is it just trial and error? because as of now i'm choking out at almost every stop light and stop sign, which isn't fun, so if you could help me out it would be much appreciated....also i was wanting to know if there is such a thing as a carburator that adjusts it'self? or is that just a figment of my imagination? please please please, if you read this shoot me an e-mail, because i am going to try an re-adjust it when i wake up this morning for class, thanks

[reddog]

Once the 2150 carb is adjusted correctly the ONLY adjustment that may be needed would be the choke. The best thing I would think is to rebuild the carb (the 2150 is pretty easy) and then you will have a chance to get all the settings correct on a clean carb. Look at the write up in the tech section at Mike's 2150 rebuild (http://www.ifsja.org/tech/fuel/2150.shtml) or this write up that someone here was nice enough to share 2150 carb (http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/carb01.html). That should get you going in the right direction.

Kerry

BTW Welcome to the best place for FSJ info. There is alot of info and many great people here.

[ February 03, 2003, 01:16 AM: Message edited by: reddog ]

[timmirvin]

Hey "youngin" I'll fire you an e-mail and see if we can't get ya goin until the weekend......

tim

[AM Woody]

I'm going through something similar right now. Redid the 2150 on my '90 a week ago. Got it running great, set the choke leaner for winter on Mike's suggestion in the 2150 rebuild article. That is to say I turned it clockwise to make the spring looser. I cranked it pretty far, maybe the tang at the bottom almost 8:00. Next morning it was cold - @ +10-20*F - truck died a few times before warming up. I drove it that night after it sat for a couple hours and it was missing a bit and popped back through the carb when I put my foot in it (lean?) until it warmed up. So, I put the choke back richer to 6:30 - 7:00.

Next morning, still cold out, wife says it's like a different truck, no stalling, no hesitation. Fine until yesterday, warmed up to @ 40*F and it's missing/popping until engine warmed up. So I set it back to 6:00 - the factory setting it was riveted to. This morning - stil warm out -wife says it's worse, didn't stall, but was hesitating until thoroughly warmed up.

Well, it's back to 15*F tomorrow, so well see what happens. I know this post is pretty confusing with the temp changes and all. Anyone make any sense of this?

Thanks,
Andy

[FSJj86GWyoungin]

I've decided that what i'll do is keep trying to find a combination of idle and choke that will let it work just find in most climates, and I found another carb. in the next town from mine which i will go and get as soon as i get my taxes back, they said it's only $100. Is that good or bad or what? I'd like to find one in a junkyard around here but I haven't been able to locate one yet. And I realized that I never gave you guys much to go on in the way of symptoms, but there almost the same as Andy's. I also wanted to ask if the rebuild was very hard? Since my car is a daily driver (not quite but I use as one anyway, I am going to rebuild the carb I buy and, swap it out and rebuild the old one. I'm just wondering if the swap will be complicated or pretty simple?
Oh BTW my name is Carleton and I love my FSJ,
Thanks for the help everyone, i'll let you know how it goes

[Serious Johnson]

'youngin:

The dumb lump of Motorcraft 2150 carburetor on your truck is about as close as they come to self-adjusting without resorting to sado-masochistic electronic feedback carbs like on late 80's Hondas. Shoot, it even has an altitude compensator (semi-controlled vacuum leak).

If it's possible to ever get these %*&$%*($ things to run right in a range of environments, I'd say that North Carolina presents little challenge.

A PERFECTLY tuned 2150 carb will go from July on the outer banks to February on mount Mitchell with no worries. That's not to say that it can ever work nearly as well as a modern fuel injected, ECU controlled motor, or that it's not possible to optimally tune it for immediate conditions. It works, and should start/run fine-ish in any Carolina situation you're likely to encounter if set right and left alone.

:-

[Don S]

..
FSJj86GWyoungin... Welcome to IFSJA...
... Don't assume a new part or thing you rebuilt your self are working correctly.
... The first thing to do would be sure the power valve, accelerator and fuel pump would seem to be OK.
… The choke systems have a fast idle cam that is ‘stepped for different speeds at different choke settings.
... Check the operation of the hot air riser to the air cleaner that warms the air and the operation of the exhaust heat riser that warms the manifold and carburetor. These items aid in vaporizing the fuel and help prevent the engine from being cold ‘natured’. BUT after the engine has warmed up they can help cause Vapor lock or float-bowl boil-over. Gasoline is very sensitive to temperature for proper atomization.
link>MC-2150 Carburetor (http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/carb01.html)

link> Acronym and Abbreviations for Jeepers (http://groups.msn.com/NISSAN4X4TRAILS/acronymlist.msnw)

Good Luck ;) and CUL.. ds..

[timmirvin]

Concerning the change out. Getting an identical 2150 to rebuild and then swap into your truck in a very good idea, IMHO!!

I assume you still have all the smog crap on your engine. And I assume this is the first time you have tackled something like this. Be patient, take your time. Don't be bashful or prideful. Use this site, the rest of the internet, and your Haynes manual. Take pictures, draw diagrams, label everything with masking tape. That way you get the new one back exactly like it is supposed to be.

While you are changing one for the other. Do a pjysical check of all your vacuum lines. They should be flexible with no visible cracks or dry rot. They should seal tightly on both ends. If in doubt.....replace it. Vacuum line is cheap. And vacuum leaks can be an extraordinary pain in the a**!!!!!!!!!

Thoughts to ponder.....
tim

[FSJj86GWyoungin]

I have no idea what the smog crap is, and yes this is the first time i've tackled anything like this, i know i have many vacum leaks, but have no idea how to start on those, since it's a daily driver i try and not do anything too hard, so that when the morning comes i can go to my classes

But as for now it's not running too bad now that the weather perked up some, it feels like spring here, even though it still cuts off, it's not too bad

"A PERFECTLY tuned 2150 carb will go from July on the outer banks to February on mount Mitchell with no worries."...ok i'm sold so how would i tune it perfectly? rebuild it?

what is the warm air riser? how would i check those things?

[sjp88grndwagon]

I too am new to this and have had carb probelms. I also had vacuum leaks, I started by getting lots of line and replacing them one at a time. (Soon I will have them all replaced) Also check you pcv valve that was the first thing I checked and replaced that helped out allot. As well as the lines going to the pcv valve (mine we all rotted)