Which Low to Choose

[XtremeOverKill]

Time has come to do something about the stock ring and pinion gear ... question is... what and how.

Stock Dana 44 and AMC 20 both have 2.73 gears :banghead: (wasn't my choice)
But my choice would be something numerically higher to allow for more low end control, and more "pep" out of the engine I just built. Ultimate goal is for medium duty rock excursions and fun wheeling.

Should I:
A) Go with a Doubler? 203 / 205 I think is the combination... mated to the 727. I really wouldn't mind keeping the 229 x-fer case, but I imagine there's no doubler combination out there worthy of thinking about. Still Open Diff axles.

B) Order a David or Goliath under-drive to go before the x-fer case. But Still open diff axles.

C) Re-gear front and rear to 4.56 or 4.88s, with ARB, OX, or Aburn Lockers. (or some other locker for that matter)

D) Order / Find differnet axles all to-gether with Full Floater, lockers, high steer, and right gearing

E) Since we're going full extreme here:: Unimog 416 axles, converted to discs and common wheels (I forget the deatils on the wheels, but it's either 16" or 17"... something different than the stock Unimog Wheel.

F) Custom Portaltek.com axles.

Probably tallest tire I"ll run is a 36" or 38" I like more control with crawling rather than the "oh hammer down and see what happens" so I dont mind the slow gearing. Eventually it'll be a trailer queen but I would still drive it on the street some - less than 3,000 miles a year - if that.

Previous experience, with 28" stock tires (stop laughing) I'd always put the truck in low range to go over whatever it was that I needed to go over, and I was happy with that... even wondered... gosh wonder what this gearing would be like in 4HI. I think numerically the digits came out to be a near 6.xx:1 But I dont think that'll happen.


What would you do?

[jtr]

I would put in what you have laying around. If you have access to a rear full floater with 410s for $250 or less, your build up has just begun. It would be a waste to re-gear and lock a AMC-20 rear with so many rear 60s and 14 bolts laying around. Tons of front axles to choose from too, seeing how a Ford or a Chevy will bolt in I can't see any good reason to stay Jeep.


My 02 and experience....

[Dmntxn77]

It all depends on your budget...

[AlsChopShop]

i'm not made of money, so if i were you i'd build a doubler and call it a day. seems like the easier/cheaper option.

Al

[jtr]

Here is what my doubler cost me.

Ford 203- Pick and Pull $40
Ford 205- Free
Jeds Machining Adapter and he resplined my old shaft - $600
ORD tripple sticks - $300
Shorten rear driveline - $115
Steal to build crossmembers $60
Seals and misc

over $1200.

[JeepinPete]

Since you mentioned you wanted to keep the NP229, you should be able to use a NP231 range box base doubler. Search box4rocks at pirate4x4, about $400 for the kit. You need to hack half the NP231 case off, and have a plate welded in. Shorten the rear driveshaft, and lengthed the front. Probably $800 when all is said and done.

[BRUTUS]

Considering you want to run 36-38" tires with a mild wheeling style... I would say you can go any of those ways really.

A) Like JTR says, the doubler is going to cost around $1,200.

B) Stay away from the Klune Goliath... not meant for the power you will produce in a full size rig. The Klune David costs around $2,000.

C) The re-gear alone is going to cost $800-1,000 if you do it yourself. Add lockers and that number quickly climbs into the $2,000-3,000 range.

D) Finding axles is pretty easy really... check craigslist, check forums, junkyards, etc. A nice set of 3/4 ton axles would probably suit you just fine and they would start out with much better gearing than you currently have. If you start ordering axles, I hope you have a deep wallet!

E) For mild wheeling this is WAY more than you need.

F) See "E"

If it were me I wouldn't re-gear what you have. See what you can find for 3/4 ton axles on the cheap, re-gear them and then you have a solid foundation for whatever else you want to do.

[XtremeOverKill]

Thanks for the suggestions.

A) Doubler sounds great, but still leaves me with Open Diffs

B) Ok so Underdrives are Out of the picture. Lots of $$$, Proprietary equipment and still Open Diffs.

C) I did look into re-gearing, and doing it myself I would get full lockers. Price range gosh you're right I'd be around $1000 an axle - assuming everything else is ok. OH and that dosen't include the cost for setting up for High Steer.

D) I like this option (and it's seeming to be the most practical) - going to have to look into it. Wonder if I can find a set of Full Floating axles, with High Steer, 4.10 or better gearing, and lockers. And yes if I could do it this way I'd do 2 front axles, and flip one and use it for rear steer. (well maybe later)

E and F) Consider all options. :drivin:

[Dmntxn77]

You still havent stated your budget, so it is hard to give good advise here...

BUT...

Dont waste your time with 3/4 ton axles unless you just have to.. You can get a pair of 1 tons for under a grand anyday.. If you look around, you can probably find a chevy D60/14 Bolt combo with 4.56's and a rear detroit. I got my dodge D60/D70 with 4.88's for $800. The rear has a power lok and the front is open (until I bust out the welder)..

People always argue about 3/4 and 1 tons, and what you really NEED.. But who really cares what you NEED. Just because SOME have had good results with 38"s on a D44 doesent mean I want to try it.. And a rear D60 has the same size shafts as a D44... Check out my build thread and I put a pic of a D60 shaft next to a D70 :eek: , and the difference between a D44 and D60 is just as amazing. The peace of mind it worth it!! Plus, with 1 tons, the option to go up in tire size is always there.

As far as which will give you the best results right away... Lockers are going to give you better results than gearing! If you get 1 tons, you can get both. It will most likely come with better gears already, and you can lock them for next to nothing.. (see below..)

What tires do you plan to run? If you go with the cheaper (and better off road) bias plys, you can just weld both the front and rear. That will save you some $$.. I have had great results welding diffs.. If they ever break, I may spool the rear and lock the front, but why spend the extra $$ until I know I have to?

[Merc69]

If you want to live up to your handle look at a set of Rockwells (about $1,000.00) 6... something gearing weld the spiders, add hydraulic steering and 44's and go for it. Of course you may have to look at converting to disc brakes ??? new custom wheels ??? new driveshafts and of course a big trailer to carry your rig.

Oh did I mention a diesel truck to tow your rig.

Good luck on your build.

[welchct]

If I were in your shoes and wanted to build a rig that was fairly cheap yet strong and capable, I would do the following.

(A) Replace the 229 with a 208. $250

(B) 14 bolt rear from a military chevy P/U. It will have 4.56's and a detroit. They go for a bout $800 new in the crate from army surplus.

(C) front 60 from a 77-79 ford high boy. This will run you about $900-$1100. The axles from thies trucks are high pinion and have king pins instead of ball joints. this will make it easyer put high steer on.

(D) stuff the axle above with 4.56's and the locker of your choice. the gears with install kits will cost you $250-300 plus locker $250-$950 but avrage around $550. You will also want to put new u-joints in the axles. Dont cheap out with parts store crap, get Spicer original joints they are much better quality, about $100 for the pair

(E-1) spring over with your front axle and shackle flip the rear there are tons of treads on here for referance. Figure $1000 for steering and drive shafts.

(E-2) 4" lift of your choice about $500-$700

(F) Tires/wheels of your choice. But lets say 37" Cooper STT and 17" steelies because it is an awsome wheel tire combo for most wheeling/street situations. $1500 out the door.

this will give you a neaarly unbreakable rig with fairly little money invested. and the money you invest could be recoped (to a degree) if you ever decided to sell.

For the above I dont see why you couldent be wheeling for $5500, add a winch, some engine upgrades, convert your AC into an air compressor, and add some armor andyou will have one awsome FSJ for $7500 + vehicle price.

PS: not trying to pimp here but if you need any of the following parts I can help you. I know I am not close but have all of the above parts on the shelf and can truck ship. at a decent price.