View Full Version : Windshield Removal
OK, I read the windshield removal posts from 12/2000...
Windshield Removal (http://www.ifsja.org/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002107)
...anybody have anything more to add?
Gonna need to know and do this soon, what if I was willing to trash the old seal, just cut it away, would that help my chances of not breaking it?
Where would I get a new seal? or would it be better to have a glass company get the seal and do the install?
TIA
irbob
04-16-2002, 11:49 AM
tadsal...your a brave person. :D First your have to get that crome off. Pretty straight forward. Use plenty of clean water in a spray bottle with a few drops of dish washing detergent in it. This "U" shapped tool that was mentioned actually looks like an ice pick with a 90deg bend at the end. The bend is about a half inch from the tip. A #1 cross tip would be a good doner tool.
There is a locking lip that you need to fish out from the corners and work it out all the way around the windshield.
Do not do this with a hot windshield. It will crack. Have someong push gently on the glass from the inside. Use something like military wool blanket between hands and glass. Spreads out the load a bit. While the inside person is pushing on the glass the outside person works the glass out of the seal. If you have a pair of duck bill vise grips you could grab the seal and pull out on it and that will help the glass come out. A push pull thing.
I guess you could reuse the seal if you clean it really good. Use a cemical to soften the rubber up and make it tacky. I would get a new one though.
On the install the seal won't stay in the top section by itself so mask it in place. I like the less tacky blue body tape. The seal goes on first. Put the glass in at the bottom first and lay it on the seal. Using plenty of soapy water still, work both side of the seal over the glass using the "J" tool. Then do the top. The seal lock could take you a long time to put in if you don't have a fancy little tool. The handle looks like a screw driver and it has a shaft like a screw driver but at the end the diamiter is sudenly smaller on the last half inch or so. In the transition point there is a 3/8 inch or so wheel that is rivited to the side. Kind of hard to explane but what it does is this. The tip is put into the crack where the lock goes and the wheel rolls along the top of the lock. The tip opens up the lock entrance and as you roll the tool along the top of the lock with downward pressure it pushes the lock into position. Whew, hope this isn't to confusing. I will reread it later to see if it makes sence to me. Good luck. :cool:
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
04-16-2002, 12:39 PM
USE MOTOR OIL!!!YOU CAN PUSH WITH YOUR FEET FROM THE INSIDE...TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... ..YOU ALSO CAN PUT IT IN,ALL IN ONE SHOT...SEAL AND WINDSHIELD... BY USING STRING...TAKE STRING AND RUN IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE SEAL,CROSS IT ,OIL THE SEAL,TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... PLACE WINDSHIELD IN OPENING...PERSON INSIDE PULLS ON STRING,PULLING SEAL,OVER PINCH WELD,PERSON OUTSIDE PUSHES IN ON THE SEAL,AS THEY GO ALONG...EASY AS 1 2 3....IF YOU DON'T UNDERSAND...PAY A GLASS CO TO DO IT....CALL AND SEE WHAT IT WILL COST....JUST TO PUT IT IN...35.00 ABOUT 15 YEARS AGO!!!...ONE THING ...YOU USE MASON LINE FOR STRING. .... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: smile.gif smile.gif
TexasJ10
04-16-2002, 12:54 PM
I've tried several times to remove the windshield in some pick a part wags and ended up cracking the windsheild every time. The only time I didn;t was when I took a sharp utility knife and cut the seal all the way around. I'm not sure what a glass company would charge to reinstall, but it would only take a phone call to find out. Most of those outfits have mobile units that can stop by your house witha new seal when you are ready to reinstall it. I know... no guts no glory, but I just don't have the skill to do it right.
Alaskaman
04-16-2002, 01:38 PM
I've removed and installed a few, never broke one that wasn't broke when I started but it's pretty nerve wracking. Key is lots of lube and lots of patience....glass does not bend much. Like Gemobx said, best to farm it out if you aren't sure.
Much Thanks To All, I've done flat glass with the mason string setup (although I remember it being thicker). No magical tricks here it seems. GEMOBX/77/401, motor oil eh, well let's see what happens, be a couple of weeks.
If I decide to trash the seal where would I get a new one?
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
04-16-2002, 02:38 PM
ONE THING ON THE OIL ...USE A SQUIRT CAN...TAKE THE NOSE OF THE SQUIRT CAN OR GUN..WHAT EVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT!!! AND STICK THE NOSE UNDER THE SEAL AND RUN IT AROUND THE SEAL, SQUIRTING THE OIL AT THE SAME TIME...LOTS AND LOTS OF OIL...THEN YOU CAN PUSH THAT SUCKER RIGHT OUT!!..TAKE YOUR TIME!! smile.gif smile.gif
Lindel
04-17-2002, 12:06 AM
There's an easier way to get the windshield out of a donor vehicle. Undo the "lock" that's part of the seal. When you remove the decorative trim, you'll see a line down the center of the seal.
Get a blunt, flat object (dull butter knife type object), and insert into this seam. Pry the bottom (at the bottom of the windshield) up, and you'll see the "lock". Once you get the first little bit out, you'll be able to run the tool all the way around the seal, and then be able to carefully push the windshield out, from the inside.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Most installers (professional, that is) will charge about $50 or so, to install, if you're supplying the glass, and no new seal is required. I think new seals are available from the stealership.
The last windshield that I did, cost me $40 to pull, and $50 to have installed. The installer garaunteed against leaks, but not against the glass cracking, since it wasn't a new windshield.
Sitting Bull
04-17-2002, 01:48 AM
The first thing I would do is check out the condition of the seal. Are you going to re-use it? If so, definitely follow the method listed previously. Remember you are going to have to clean the seal VERY WELL if it is ever going to keep water out.
But if you're not going to keep the seal, why take the risk? You'll save mucho time and stress by just cutting the sucker. Remove the chrome, cut the outside of the seal off, gently push on the window and it will come out. If it's stuck to the rubber, a little kerosene (or similiar)will loosen it right up. It can be done in less than 1/2 hour, with more or less no chance of breaking. The only trick is using the disposable "break-off" type of utility knife that can be opened up all the way for a 3" razor.
Ridgbak
04-17-2002, 01:54 AM
--Tads, just a heads' up. When you do this, bring a helper along.
--My current physical condition puts me smack-dab in a supervisory role, ya know, standing there watching you sweat your butt off, with a frosty in my one good hand, offering advice on something I know nothing about. :D :D :D
Don't know about the seal, don't know about my skill level with glass, boy, I don't know nothing today except that glass is heavy and akward to move. I'm not moving fast on this so I'll see if the glass guy neighbor wants a side job.
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
04-17-2002, 08:50 AM
MR BULL IS RIGHT...SORRY MY MIND SET IS SAVE THE SEAL...IN A BODY SHOP YOU GET PAYED TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD...NOT DESTROY THE SEAL THE INSURANCE CO WOULD NEVER PAY FOR A NEW SEAL....SO GUESS WHAT!! ...YOU WOULD EAT IT!!!! :eek: :eek: .. ...JUST TRYING TO HELP smile.gif smile.gif
irbob
04-17-2002, 09:38 AM
Ok this is really simple.
Get a rock.
Rock vers. windshield.
Windshield looses.
Take to a glass repair and let your insurance pay for it.
Fixed...new seal and glass.
P.S. Try to find a repair shop that pays the deductible. We have one here and they paid the $100.00 deductible.
P.S.S. Don't try this at home kids.
To Many Chiefs...Not Enough Indians! :rolleyes:
Rob, you can never know what might happen to your windshield, someone could try to steal it off the rig, oops, that would be property insurance. ;)
miked
08-23-2002, 03:53 AM
just took the one out of the firetruck a few weeks back.
couple of things:
to get it out break the seal and push with the palm of your hand at the lower corners of the window till they pop out. if'n your seal is old and stiff this will take a moment or 3 so use patience.
They make a tool to break the seal, its hard plastic and looks like a large popsicle stick thats sort of pointed on one end. The installer guys left me one
Garys suggestion about motor oil might cause the rubber (that was not originally designed for oil) in the seal to breakdown in the sun -- since you seem to get abit of that down there you might be careful with that. But his intent was good, dish soap worked well for me.
just like in real life, you shouldn't need lube to get it out, only to get it in...
after reinstalling use the glazing compound to run a bead under the seal *all the way* around the inner portion between the glass and seal, as well as the out portion between the seal and the lip of the body. after I changed my seal the windshield dripped water right under the rear view mirror in heavy weather. when the auto glass guys came out to reinstall my glass ($65, no warranty against breakage) they only did the glazing on the inner and outer from halfway up the A post down around the bottom -- but not the top "ahh,you don;t need it up here" BS
you can buy it in a calking gun tube setup for about $10 at most autoparts stores, think i saw a tube from 3M the other day at my local money pit -- ERRR, parts house
the chrome is an absolute P*I*T*A to get back on
thats my story, i'm sticking to it
Sally's gonna kick my butt when she finally relizes that widnow's been in the dinning room for over 4 months.
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
08-23-2002, 08:31 AM
Originally posted by miked:
the chrome is an absolute P*I*T*A to get back on
SORRY!!! USE OIL!!..AND THAT CHROME WILL ZIPPPPP BACK ON!!! :cool: :D :D
I don't know about you guys, but it took me a whole 5 minutes to get the one out of my parts rig. It took 2 minutes to get my cordless drill out, then another minute to unscrew the chrome strips. I took a utility knife to the bottom passenger side corner diagonally across the seam. Then I just grabbed the center piece in the seal that I had just cut and literally pulled it out all the way around. That took about a minute and a half. Then I got inside, put both feet on the inside and gave a gentle push. Bloop...out came the windshield in five minutes flat. I thought the seal was ingeniously easy to remove. I really don't know why you would want to go through all the effort of trying to pry the glass out and reuse it???
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
08-23-2002, 10:24 AM
Originally posted by Hump:
I really don't know why you would want to go through all the effort of trying to pry the glass out and reuse it???WHY BUY A NEW ONE.....IF YOU CAN SAVE A GOOD SEAL :confused: smile.gif
PAJEEPER
08-23-2002, 06:17 PM
I've always cut the seal alot easier on me. Never bought one either just salveged them from broken windshields.
Had to clean the dining room of all the jeep parts - wow - 7 1/2 months to put in a windshield.
http://members.cox.net/chmsawsroofracks/glassin.JPG
Thanks for your help.
Crazy_Jeepman
11-24-2002, 08:47 AM
Its DIRTY !!! :eek: Whats with the chain, ya keep your dog under the hood! :rolleyes: or is that chain holding the fenders on? LOL looks good Tad :D :D
Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
...ya keep your dog under the hood!...Not sure, it came with the Jeep so I figured I should keep it chained up so it won't run away.
[ November 24, 2002, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: tadsal ]
skibullfrog
10-23-2005, 01:19 PM
Hey Tad, and others...I am removing my windshield and seal for some body repair. I have totally destroyed the entire seal, inside and out removing it. My question is when the glass is replaced with a new seal, is the seal one piece? I guess what I am getting at, when I replace the seal am I removing all of the rubber inside and out? There should be no rubber left, correct.
BTW, I know this sounds dumb but I need ton know.
Thanks
mdill9
10-23-2005, 05:24 PM
Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
USE MOTOR OIL!!!YOU CAN PUSH WITH YOUR FEET FROM THE INSIDE...TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... ..YOU ALSO CAN PUT IT IN,ALL IN ONE SHOT...SEAL AND WINDSHIELD... BY USING STRING...TAKE STRING AND RUN IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE SEAL,CROSS IT ,OIL THE SEAL,TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... PLACE WINDSHIELD IN OPENING...PERSON INSIDE PULLS ON STRING,PULLING SEAL,OVER PINCH WELD,PERSON OUTSIDE PUSHES IN ON THE SEAL,AS THEY GO ALONG...EASY AS 1 2 3....IF YOU DON'T UNDERSAND...PAY A GLASS CO TO DO IT....CALL AND SEE WHAT IT WILL COST....JUST TO PUT IT IN...35.00 ABOUT 15 YEARS AGO!!!...ONE THING ...YOU USE MASON LINE FOR STRING. .... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: smile.gif smile.gif Never ever use petrolium (oil) based slickum on rubber,
will disolove the $hit out of it. For rubber use
pure silicon lube (not WD40 that has oil in it)
or not as good but better than nothing soap.
Mike D.
andy d
10-24-2005, 12:49 AM
Originally posted by skibullfrog:
Hey Tad, and others...I am removing my windshield and seal for some body repair. I have totally destroyed the entire seal, inside and out removing it. My question is when the glass is replaced with a new seal, is the seal one piece? I guess what I am getting at, when I replace the seal am I removing all of the rubber inside and out? There should be no rubber left, correct.
BTW, I know this sounds dumb but I need ton know.
Thanksyes + yes
[ October 24, 2005, 06:51 AM: Message edited by: andy d ]
OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
10-24-2005, 01:34 AM
Originally posted by mdill9:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
USE MOTOR OIL!!!YOU CAN PUSH WITH YOUR FEET FROM THE INSIDE...TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... ..YOU ALSO CAN PUT IT IN,ALL IN ONE SHOT...SEAL AND WINDSHIELD... BY USING STRING...TAKE STRING AND RUN IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE SEAL,CROSS IT ,OIL THE SEAL,TWO PEOPLE ONE INSIDE ONE OUTSIDE.... PLACE WINDSHIELD IN OPENING...PERSON INSIDE PULLS ON STRING,PULLING SEAL,OVER PINCH WELD,PERSON OUTSIDE PUSHES IN ON THE SEAL,AS THEY GO ALONG...EASY AS 1 2 3....IF YOU DON'T UNDERSAND...PAY A GLASS CO TO DO IT....CALL AND SEE WHAT IT WILL COST....JUST TO PUT IT IN...35.00 ABOUT 15 YEARS AGO!!!...ONE THING ...YOU USE MASON LINE FOR STRING. .... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: smile.gif smile.gif Never ever use petrolium (oil) based slickum on rubber,
will disolove the $hit out of it. For rubber use
pure silicon lube (not WD40 that has oil in it)
or not as good but better than nothing soap.
Mike D.</font>[/QUOTE]..OK THANKS!!!...I DID NOT KNOW THAT!!.... WELL!!, I BETTER GO AND CHECK ON, ALL !!! THE HUNDERDS AND HUNDREDS OF WINDSHIELDS I'VE REPLACED IN 30 YEARS!
Basher
10-24-2005, 06:16 PM
You get a new seal from BJ:s or someone else and you get the whole thing.
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