Chevy Engine Swap

[superal30]

So here's my story. I'm new to all this forum stuff and this is my first 4x4. I've always been into drag racing and I am a small block chevy fan and I have a collection on parts. I bought my 76 wagoneer for $250 hauled it home put a battery in it and drove it off the TRAILER!! oh yeah good deal title and all. 401 th400 quadratrac dana 44's front and rear. I got an offer on the 401 sold it and trans. for $600. I'm going to use this money to buy soa and shakle flip kits and I am going to throw together a good, don't care, run it til she blows, used parts 350 chevy. Does anyone have pictures of the motor mounts you used for your small block chevy. If you could share them with me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again

[AlsChopShop]

i used mounts from novak (novak-adapt.com). i was giong to have someone build me some, but i couldn't find a very good design when the time came. i was hesitant, but as soon as they showed up i was sold on them. great adjustability and very simple.

http://sore4x4.com/forum/userpix/59_DSC00449_1.jpg

http://sore4x4.com/forum/userpix/59_DSC00447_1.jpg


the only problem i had with them is the stock manifolds ('87) didn't clear them, so it was a great excuse to buy some nice headers.


if you have any other questions on the swap, i'm more then happy to help.

Al

[BRUTUS]

JPX on this board also used the Novak motor mounts and loves them.

[Dr Teeth]

See the links in my sig for my rig with the Novak adaptors as well. I had trouble with the drive side clearing the steering column (I know others have had the same issue).

The other clearance issue is working the engine mount around the three bolts that go through the frame for the shock towers.

It's not a big block so clearance with firewall/heater box/vacuum brake booster shouldn't be much of an issue.

Todd

P.S.
Don't be surprised if you get flamed a little.... there's a lot of guys on this forum that seem to think the 401 is the holy grail of FSJ engines, swapping a running one out for a chevy is sacrilege to them! Otherwise, welcome to the madness.

[Casey]

Novak! :thumbsup:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_mm29j.htm

BJ's sells them cheaper than the Novak site, BTW. ;)

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=79

[imiceman44]

See the links in my sig for my rig with the Novak adaptors as well. I had trouble with the drive side clearing the steering column (I know others have had the same issue).

The other clearance issue is working the engine mount around the three bolts that go through the frame for the shock towers.

It's not a big block so clearance with firewall/heater box/vacuum brake booster shouldn't be much of an issue.

Todd

P.S.
Don't be surprised if you get flamed a little.... there's a lot of guys on this forum that seem to think the 401 is the holy grail of FSJ engines, swapping a running one out for a chevy is sacrilege to them! Otherwise, welcome to the madness.

He probably figured he can make money off wanted parts and still have a good running vehicle from his parts bin.
I would do the same. :thumbsup:

[AlsChopShop]

See the links in my sig for my rig with the Novak adaptors as well. I had trouble with the drive side clearing the steering column (I know others have had the same issue).

The other clearance issue is working the engine mount around the three bolts that go through the frame for the shock towers.

do you have pictures of the clearance problem? as you can see in my pictures i had about 2" of clearance. i was able to use one of the stock engine mount bolts to temporarily bolt the new mounts in place, it worked perfectly. the mounts are not interfearing with the shock bolts at all from what i recall. but i also moved my drivetrain as far rearward as i could, so maybe that helped in both clearances.

Al

[superal30]

Thank you for all the replies i'm getting some good ideas.


Originally Posted by imiceman44
He probably figured he can make money off wanted parts and still have a good running vehicle from his parts bin.
I would do the same.

imiceman44:
thanks for the support and just so you know: I changed the rear main seal the first week I had it. I noticed the bearings are shot and it had a lot of blowby, so either spend money to rebuild the 401 or build a stout 350 that I have NO MONEY in and run the crap out of it. If it breaks o well I'll build another, I build engines for a living and small block chevy is our bread and butter, so I have endless supply of used parts. Good for me not good for the 401.

Dr Teeth:
is your rearend an offset dana 44? It looked that way in the pic of your frame when it was in the building. If so do you ever have driveshaft problems for it being slanted and angled down? I want to get rid of the quadra-trac but I didn't know if the driveshaft would work in that funny angle. One more thing do like the ram horn manifolds. We have several sets at work and I can get them pretty easy, just have to talk to the boss man, you know how that goes. Extremely nice work by the way!!

[AlsChopShop]

all quadratrac equipped rigs had an offset D44. you shouldn't have any problem running it regarless of your transfercase. the drive shaft doesn't know if its straight up and down or side to side. its all one angle if you think about it.

i was originally going with ram horns for mine, but i saw something shiny and i was distracted towards the nice headers. :)

Al

[Dr Teeth]

My rig was stock with the offset 44 with the Dana 20 transfer case. As far as I know it works fine, of course I've only driven the truck once, one year ago. I pulled it accross the street and into my driveway.... It hasn't been driveable since.

The rams horns are nice for clearance. I was told they were produced with two different internal diameters, so if you have some, worth checking to see if any are the larger diameter.

As noted with the clearance issues, my engine is set further forward in the frame (used the front set of holes in the tranny x-member) as I was trying to keep the transfer case in the exact same placement front to back as stock so I didn't have to mess with drivelines.

Todd

[superal30]

Thank you guys for all your reply's. I'll be building the engine at work. I'll probably start on the machine work next week. I've gathered enough parts that the only thing I'll have to buy is rings, bearings, and gaskets. Pretty good. Only question I have left is what color is the jeep 401? I figured out of respect, for the jeep, that I should paint my new engine the same color. Thanks again guys I'll post pics as soon as I get some.

[AlsChopShop]

bright pink.

Al

[Dmntxn77]

bright pink.

Al

:lol:

[superal30]

Bright Pink? come on are you sure. Respect or not, I won't be able to ruin a good Chevy engine with BRIGHT PINK!! Sorry there's just no way.

[ajbirken]

Here is a shot of the ghetto SBC mounts in my J10.

This picture is from under the truck, looking up at the drivers mount. It is basically a plate that is welded to the stock mount.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10053/sbc_mount.jpg

[AlsChopShop]

do you have pictures of the clearance problem? as you can see in my pictures i had about 2" of clearance. i was able to use one of the stock engine mount bolts to temporarily bolt the new mounts in place, it worked perfectly. the mounts are not interfearing with the shock bolts at all from what i recall. but i also moved my drivetrain as far rearward as i could, so maybe that helped in both clearances.

Ali took a closer look at my mounts in relation to the shock tower bolts. i used the farthest bolt aft to bolt the top of the novak mount to the frame. the mounts are now welded to the frame, but i left the shock bolt in place through the motor mount. it worked perfectly and the steering shaft clears with no issues.

Al

[superal30]

ajbirken,
Could you please show me some more pics. Like the passenger side or anything else. I'll be fabbing my own and I like that your using factory mounts. Thankyou and good work.

[superal30]

Thanks again for all your help
Two more questions(for now anyway)
Has anyone went with a solid mount set up or do you all have rubber mounts? I'm seriously thinking about solid mount to remove some deflection in the driveline and hopefully get a little more power to the ground. What do you think?

And what did you all do for driveshafts? I'm going SOA/Shackle flip also and was just curious. Since this is my first Jeep (and first 4x4 for that matter). I really haven't ever done the whole tranny/t-case swap, so I am not sure if I can even use my driveshafts (for connecting purposes). I know I'll have to lengthen them.

[imiceman44]

Thanks again for all your help
Two more questions(for now anyway)
Has anyone went with a solid mount set up or do you all have rubber mounts? I'm seriously thinking about solid mount to remove some deflection in the driveline and hopefully get a little more power to the ground. What do you think?

And what did you all do for driveshafts? I'm going SOA/Shackle flip also and was just curious. Since this is my first Jeep (and first 4x4 for that matter). I really haven't ever done the whole tranny/t-case swap, so I am not sure if I can even use my driveshafts (for connecting purposes). I know I'll have to lengthen them.
If you plan on taking the vehicle anywhere that is not perfetly flat, no bumps or twists in the surface, then do not go with solid mounts, you will twist the frame firsttime you take it off road and the weakest spot of your adapter will break.
You need the flex to keep things alive, unless you make a frame so solid and with a cage to make sure it doesn't twist, which can be done.
Then all your twisting will be in the suspension and you can do solid mounts and feel all the vibration of the engine and tranny/tcase.
:thumbsup: