Edelbrock Air Gap Intake Manifold---Opinions?

[ColeTrickle]

I was just wondering y'alls opinions on this manifold. There is a few on e-bay selling for $$$.
Says 1500-6000 rpms. Think this is to much for that low end grunt power/torque? Or is this more for a speed machine?
Just wondering.

[Brown Bear]

All your low end torque will go out yonder window with the air gap mani. It's for the go fast, vroom vroom, drag butt boys. If you wanna go vroom vroom, then by all means.

[Elliott]

I was curious too. I read a few posts on them and haven't seen anyone saying they are any less of a manifold then a performer below 1500 rpm. Not sure the jury is all in yet.

[netbear]

I think they are fine for low end on a 401. OK on a 360 and not so good for low end torque on anything less than a 360. The performer works well but seems a little small for a 401. I have a 401 and have not
decided between the two yet. If I stick with the EGR
then I need to go with the Performer. I don't rev
the engine much, don't do mud and so the benefit of
the air gap would only be less heat under the hood
in hot weather. Some friends have had fuel vapor lock in hot weather when rock crawling at low speeds. That's the reason the air gap may be better in my limited opinion.

[1BAD401]

I've been thinking of the intake, the only thing that is holding me back is hood clearence problem. I'm within a 1/4 inch with the performer and a 3" filter, the airgap is about a 1 1/2 inches taller than the performer so I'd have to get the cowl hood, which is $550 buck!!! :eek: I would love it but I think I'll have to wait.

[Josh D]

I think it would work fine, especially in your climate (warm). I don't know what cam or gears your running, but in my opinion 1500 rpm is still plenty low in the torque curve to start building power. With 4.10's, an auto, and 33's, my rig only see's below 1500 rpm from a dead stop, and its above 1500 reletively quick. I think one would have driveability problems with a daily driver in cold climates though because you need some heat to help vaporize the atomized fuel/air mixture. I say go for it!

[Mike B]

I'm running 4.10's,33's and an auto and I'm going for the Air-Gap on my 401 build-up.
Couldn't find much on the low-end torque issue but what I did find seemed to indicate I'd be OK with a 401.
I've found almost as many people who think the regular Performer AMC intake is a turd as people who like them(which is contrary to what I've found with Performer intakes for non-Jeeps).
I'm going to give it a try and I'll report here..good or bad.
I'm going a little wilder on this engine than I originally planned so I think I'll be OK.
And it's hot here most of the time and these **** engines run so hot I can't imagine more trouble with it other than maybe some extra warm up time. Fuel mileage may dump a bit with less atomizing going on with the cooler intake-but I guess if I was too concerned with that I wouldn't be driving an FSJ with a 401.
I want this thing to haul *ss!
I haven't measured the height yet but-yes-it's tall!

1BAD401,
what aircleaner are you running?
I'm hoping a lowered style one(like for street rods with high-rises)will make it fit under my stock hood!

Mike B

[Stuka]

I have the performer and have gone downn to 400rpm and still pull. so evenn tho it says 1500 rpma nd up, i think the air gap will stiill give enough power down around 900-1000 with a 401 or 360. it will lower your low end throttle responce and torque, but this also depends on what cam you are running.

[Marvin Gates]

The problem Mike is the center bolt in the carb that holds the air cleaner down (made a little ding in the hood) from it. I had to use a spacer to make the Edelbrock (AFB) fit the stock manifold on the Wag. MG :D :D smile.gif

[1BAD401]

Originally posted by Marvin Gates:
The problem Mike is the center bolt in the carb that holds the air cleaner down (made a little ding in the hood) from it. I had to use a spacer to make the Edelbrock (AFB) fit the stock manifold on the Wag. MG :D :D smile.gif I've cut my bolt down and I even cut a circle in the hood insulation where the lid is so I won't rub. One thing you have to remember also is that it might just fit sitting there but what happens when you stomp on it? Maybe if you went with solid motor mounts but I really don't want to do that route. I've ran both air cleaners, the drop down and the standard, I think it will still hit the hood with the drop down. I prefer the standard because I like to make minor carb adjustments with out taking my air cleaner off. Anyway I hope if works for you, report back!!!!! :D

[ColeTrickle]

Thanks for the thoughts guys ;) .

I haven't really spec'd out what I'm going to do with the '74, engine wise.

I bought and it ran! :D
Upon further inspection it has a 4bbl Edelbrock and a 2bbl intake with an adapter :rolleyes: .

I'm off to find what the Performer rpm's range is.

Unfortunately, I don't have an RPM gauge on either of my rigs...I know, I know, I need TWO.

Does anyone have, off the top of their head, the approx. rpm's at the peak torque curve for a stock 360 engine?

TIA

[turtlejoe]

Ya gonna put a Flowmaster on the '74 TOO??? :D :D :D

[ January 11, 2003, 09:13 AM: Message edited by: turtlejoe ]

[ColeTrickle]

Hey TurtleJoe!
Yeah I'm going with two, just like the Honcho.
Then again ...maybe I should go with....
Naaahhh, I ain't gettin' into that again :D

o.k....I now see that Edelbrock makes two types of Air gap's. Idle to 5500 rpms...and 1500 to 6500 rpms

[ January 11, 2003, 09:21 AM: Message edited by: ColeTrickle ]

[Michael]

Hey man.. I would do the air gap. The one for idle up to 5500 rpms. I bet you will like it a lot. Also since you may not be wheelin it, That would be good to pull your honcho to the trails. What carb are you slapping on? And when do you need some help!!!???? I am on standby!!!!

[derf]

Originally posted by ColeTrickle:
Hey TurtleJoe!
Yeah I'm going with two, just like the Honcho.
Then again ...maybe I should go with....
Naaahhh, I ain't gettin' into that again :D

o.k....I now see that Edelbrock makes two types of Air gap's. Idle to 5500 rpms...and 1500 to 6500 rpmsThe idle-1500 RPM manifold is not an air gap. It's just a regular manifold, just like Michael has.

The two air gap manifolds they make are for the 290/343/390 engines of the late 60's or the 304/360/401 that we have.

That being said, I'd use the regular air gap if you're planning on doing a lot of crawling with that truck or a lot of heavy towing. If you're going to be driving it mostly on the road or doing a lot of mudding, I'd say the air gap is the way to go.

[ColeTrickle]

Originally posted by derf:

That being said, I'd use the regular air gap if you're planning on doing a lot of crawling with that truck or a lot of heavy towing. If you're going to be driving it mostly on the road or doing a lot of mudding, I'd say the air gap is the way to go.[/QB]Hey derf...your right ;) . I guess the ebay seller had two listings or something. Don't remember where I got the idea that they had two "air gaps".

I am alittle confused though it sounds like you'd go with the air gap no matter what you run :D :D .

The 1500-6500 RPM is recommended with a 750 or higher cfm carb also.
I don't think I'm going that route.
Thanks for pointing that out.

[ January 12, 2003, 03:40 PM: Message edited by: ColeTrickle ]

[oddfire]

I really wonder sometimes about post that talk about 5000-6000 PRMs in our rigs. Do any of you guys run a Tachometer? I do and the highest off road RPM I have seen is under 2000 RPM, Now granted this is mostly rock crawling and not mud flinging, but I have run the RPMs up in deep snow too but no where near 4500 RPMs. I run a performer with a 1407, thats 750 cfm, on my built 401. I say before you spend lotsa $$$ on expensive engine parts, spend $ 100. on a decent tach and see where your motor really lives......phil

[ January 12, 2003, 03:52 PM: Message edited by: oddfire ]

[ColeTrickle]

Point taken...thanks ;) .

[Mikel2]

Body lift! smile.gif

Originally posted by 1BAD401:
I've been thinking of the intake, the only thing that is holding me back is hood clearence problem. I'm within a 1/4 inch with the performer and a 3" filter, the airgap is about a 1 1/2 inches taller than the performer so I'd have to get the cowl hood, which is $550 buck!!! :eek: I would love it but I think I'll have to wait.

[Dan]

I saw that air gap manifold on eBay for a while and I decided on the Performer. The air gap just doesn't seem to make sense for me. The rpm range they list for the air gap doesn't really match the usable range on my jeep, compared to the regular Performer. I bought the Performer at Checker for $176 new (which I think is cheaper than the Air Gap on eBay) and will be installing this weekend along with the 1406 carb I bought at Jegs.com for $188 (remanned).

[oddfire]

I think you made a good choice. I remember when I yanked my stock 75 lb manifold and motorcrap carb off and replaced them with the Edelbrock combo. Day and nite difference in the way it ran, just be prepared to tweak the timing a little....phil

[1980chief]

last night i did some research on this. i've got the big edelbrock book here at the house that has everyting they make in it..and goes into detail. the air gap for an amc said for high performance engines and something like 2500-4500 rmps.(or close to that anyway)but the performer would fit you much better(usless your gonna take your fsj to the drag strip)