View Full Version : Dana 60 questions?
KYJ10
12-09-2002, 07:41 AM
What is the diffrence between semi and full floating axles? And are there any 60's that have the same bolt pattern as my AMC 20? Im looking to upgrade the rear and was wondering whats the best fit for me? What about the 14 bolt? Any info will be great, thanks, Dennis
The D60-2 semi-floater was only used from about 68(?)-73. Most D60's you'll find are the full-floaters with 8 lug wheels.
This link can explain full-semi better than I can and a whole lot less typing. smile.gif Semi-vs Full Floaters (http://www.dynatrac.com/axle_designs.html)
bvibert
12-09-2002, 09:39 AM
D60-2s that I have seen have had a 5 bolt pattern. Not sure if other manufacturers used any version of the 60 with a 6 bolt pattern or not, but Jeep didn't that I'm aware of.
In short:
semi float
axle breaks, wheel is not attached (falls off)
full float
axle breaks, wheel still attached smile.gif
Seems to me that replacing a FF is easier too, but I have no experience in this...you should be able to unbolt all those little cover plate bolts, pull the axle, replace it, put cover back on and be doen right? No need to pull the wheel even? Right? Or am I missing something?
In a related topic, is the infamous "C-clip" axle a semi float that uses a C-clip to keep the axle from wandering out of the housing? Or is it something else?
KYJ10
12-09-2002, 10:09 AM
I assuming that a 60 out of any J20 in the 80's years, will be a good swap? Im assuming everything will bolt right up?
Rande
12-09-2002, 10:16 AM
KYJ10, Not sure about the bolt-up but I would think so. Keep in mind the J20 D60 uses 8 lug bolts and the J10 uses 6. The J20 axle is likely to have a low gear ratio also. Might consider using both J20 axles for ratio and lug count match. The J20 front D44 is stronger than the J10 unit also.
Sounds like a good assumption smile.gif
I would tend to assume the same thing.
So your 81 J10 has a AMC 20? That sucks. The D60 will be a sweet upgrade :D
Edit:
Doohhhhhhh, Rande beat me to it...good advice though. Gotta get them gear ratios and all...prolly be easiest to get both axles :D
[ December 09, 2002, 05:18 PM: Message edited by: jode ]
KYJ10
12-09-2002, 10:22 AM
After doing a search, ive seen alot of people say that the AMC 20 is equal or slightly stronger than the front 44 I have. But, I know that the rear axle takes more abuse than the front. In the near future I plan to swap my 35's for some 37's. Im not to worried about having 6 lug front and 8 lug rear for now. I would like to get the rear done, then worry about the front later.
Funny, I heard the exact opposite bout that D44/AMC20 thing....that the 44 was slightly stronger and that the 20 could be made approximately as strong as a 44 via a couple a mods.
:confused:
Originally posted by KYJ10:
I assuming that a 60 out of any J20 in the 80's years, will be a good swap? Im assuming everything will bolt right up?Most stuff will be a bolt up but not sure about a yoke/u-joint size diff between a J-10/20. As mentioned you will need to swap the ends of the D44 front to run 8 lug wheels or carry two spares. You'll also need to swap axle gearing in either end to match. The 80+ J-10's only came with 2.73 or 3.31 gears where the 80+ J-20's came stock w/3.74's. Best/easiest thing to do as Jode mentioned is get "both" axles from the donor J-20.
Rande
12-09-2002, 10:32 AM
Jode, remember there are 2 different Model-20 axles used by jeep. The weaker one was the two-piece axles used in the CJs. Those two-piece axles were a weak point. To make that axle about the strength of a D44 you have to buy a kit to change the axles to one-piece units. The stronger one-piece Model-20 used in the full-size trucks is plenty strong. Considered, by most, to be slightly stronger than the D44.
KYJ10
12-09-2002, 10:33 AM
Ive heard that the only weak part about the wide track version of the 20 is the tubes are pressed in. I welded my tubes to the diff housing, so I solved that problem. As far as gearing, I already have 456 gears, so will have to re gear either way, cause I want the 456's. I will regear the front axle when I decide(or brake it) to swap out the front 44. Anyway, I will prolly go with the 60 read and HD 44 front.
fourtrax
12-09-2002, 01:33 PM
KYJ10....have any luck finding any J20's around Taylorsville? I can't find anything around Louisville!
Will Morris
12-09-2002, 01:42 PM
I'm pretty sure that a semi floater will not have the wheel fall off if the axle shaft breaks. With C-clip axles, like the Dana 35c and GM 10 and 12 bolts, the axle shafts are held in with c-clips, so when the shaft breaks, what's left of it, the drum, wheel, etc are no longer attached to the vehicle except throught the brake line. A semi-floater won't do this if it's not a c-clip. The AMC 20 is not a C clip nor are the Dana 44s or 60s. Full floaters are the best because the shaft doesn't support the weight of the vehicle, just turns the wheel, so if the shaft breaks, just pull it out and continue on as best you can. With a semi-floater, you're going to be in trouble, but your wheel isn't necessarily going to fall off.
Will
Will Morris
12-09-2002, 01:44 PM
Sorry, if I wasn't specific enough, if you have a C-clip axle, your wheel will fall off. If you don't, it probably won't unless something really went wrong. Don't expect the brake line to hold it on. It's not fun when your wheel passes you on the highway.
Will
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