Cutting Rear Wheelwells?

[RAMBLINFSJ]

For you guys who have cut out your rear wheelwells out, what is the ways y'all mated the 2 pieces of sheetmetal back together?

[Tad]

First time I did the cut/weld/grind thing.
http://members.cox.net/tadsal/web%20page/wagpictures/fencutrear.JPG
Second time I took out the entire inner fender well.
About page 5 or so in the link in my sig (the It's Time one).

[rustywagoneers_com]

angle iron, from the outside. i usually make a 'rim' that sorta mimicks the body line of the old fake NT flare. the lip is long enough to bridge the gap in most places but you would have to make up some real estate on the rear side. i usually use flat back there. I also cut off the dog leg at the body line and do flat and angle also.

but i am pretty much nuts...

peace
Dave

[fulsizjeep]

We cut my rears 1.5" and filled the gap with gray concrete silicone sealer in a tube for chaulking gun. I have to reseal it every couple years because body flex breaks it loose after a bit.

[Dirtball]

I've been thinking of spray in foam... just in case I DO have to trim... get the kind that is like closed cell after it dries (it might ALL be like that for all I know).

[Slick Willie]

Spray in foam is freaking expensive. $4-6 a bottle, depending on what size you buy, that doesn't fill much gap. Just FYI

[Dirtball]

It depends on how you use it...

[shimniok]

For you guys who have cut out your rear wheelwells out, what is the ways y'all mated the 2 pieces of sheetmetal back together?

Caulk/sealant doesn't work so well (AMHIK) It's ok but will peel off with flexing off-road. It's good enough that I haven't bothered trying something different.

[Hammer]

I will be doing this soon (this weekend I hope).
But I am putting a flare that sticks out like the M715 flares do. So it will be pretty darn easy for me.

[Dirtball]

Is this something your bought or fabbed up yourself?

[Hammer]

Making my own rear flares.
Just matching the inner fenderwells, but extending them past the outside body panel.
Check out some pictures of what Baja has (in my post about backspacing). They will be similiar to that, but stick out further.

[TINMAN93]

On my rear fenders I filled the gap with 3/8 cold rold round stock and welded it in. Depending on the size of the gap you can use tubing, like electrical conduit which comes in lots of sizes, is easily shapped and can be welded in place giving it a nice round edge, strong and durable.
Tinman

[tkiller13]

I cut my fenders already and gonna fill the gap in the next few days. Just wondering if anybody has a pic from the inside to show how big of a gap they had to fill. Ill post pics as I do this. I also cut the bottom of the rear 1/4s to match the bottom of the tailgate trim.

[rustywagoneers_com]

6273

from inside the door...

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=668&d=1151387097

i have already attached that one above before and i dont know how to make it appear..

copy and paste and it will work...

peace
Dave

[Hammer]

Oh wait, did you want to see how it was done on a Wag or a Chero?
Here is how the choptop is done (almost the exact same as I will do with the chero).

http://froadin.com/choptop/Wag6.jpg

[baja]

Hey Hammer,

Got any details on what was done to the rear doors on the choptop?
How well do the door seals work, or do they get removed?
I'm thinking I may be getting a hold of a good waggy body to either put on my Cherokee frame or just use the whole waggy, anyway the rear doors sort of complicate things on a four door for doing the extended wheel well.
I would really like to see some good pics.

Thanks,
baja

[Hammer]

I didn't do the work for this wag. But I can explain a little about what is there.
The lip is there to use the door seals all the way around.
The bottom of the door was cut to match the angle of the new flare.
I don't have the seals on it, but they should go right back on.
As for the doors hitting the seals. Not sure how well they will work as I haven't got around to finishing the doors yet.
Here is a better picture that shows how the door lip was left intact.

[Hammer]

Here are a couple more pictures of the door and fender fitment. And how the door was cut.

Hmm, not sure why the attachments aren't showing.

[Hammer]

ok, here they are.

http://froadin.com/choptop/choptop_door.jpg

http://froadin.com/choptop/choptop_door_fender.jpg

[Kris]

Heres mine...

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/Kris-Tholke/WagRrOpen.JPG

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/Kris-Tholke/WagQtrPnl1.JPG

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/Kris-Tholke/WagQtrPnl2.JPG

Took out about 6.5". Steel is 20-22ga sheet from the local hardware store. Sealed it with Bondo.

kris.

[RAMBLINFSJ]

Nice Job Kris! That looks doable.

[Kris]

Thanks.

I give credit to "Scoutgrl" (Dennis I think) for the idea.
He used to post here alot but havnt seen anything from him in a few years.

Heres his old webpage. My browser is so old it wont open the page anymore so I dont know if his pics are still there. Alot of popups too, so be warned...
http://members.tripod.com/scoutgrl/

Might search here by user as well.

kris.

[Tad]

Nice Job Kris! That looks doable.

Very nice indeed.
Kris didn't even have rust :confused:

Good to see you hanging around and posting Kris :thumbsup:

(I must make contrition and admit I sole darn near every fender trimming idea from Dr. Bob)

[tkiller13]

Ya thats about the size of a gap I have to fill kris. Gonna do the basic idea you did. Hopefully I will be able to work on it tomorrow.