Progress on diesel swap

[DieselSJ]

Here are some pics...

http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh1.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh2.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh3.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh4.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh5.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh6.jpg
http://www.newsolutionsnw.com/pics/exh7.jpg

Pipe is 3.5" from the turbo outlet all the way back. Muffler is actually a 4" Magnaflow.

If you need exhaust or roll cage work done in the Seattle area, here is his contact information -
Doug Chase
www.chaserace.com (http://www.chaserace.com)
Custom roll cage and exhaust fabrication
425-269-5636

We're getting closer!

Mark

[joe]

Nice clean install Mark. Keep good notes...there's more than a couple of us interested in doing this. Thanks for the update.

[Cherokee-Kid]

Very nice work Mark. Last I heard, from some previous posts, you were worried about passing emissions test with the diesal swap. Is this still going to be an issue? I was also wondering what the exhaust ended up costing you. I would like to fab something similar for a small block chevy sitting in my Cherokee.

[DieselSJ]

Now that I'm back in CA, the emissions are no problem. Diesels are exempt in CA. The exhaust cost about $750 - and he started with nothing.

I don't like what I had to do to the motor mount on the driver's side. I have talked to the owner over at Autofab in El Cajon and he is going to fab some of their heavy duty mounts for me - he has them for CJs and YJs, but not for SJs yet. When they are done, they will bolt to the factory holes in the frame and will be able to be used with any GM V8 (non-Vortec) engine.

[keej]

Are those the Novak mounts? What kind of problems have you had so far with everything involved with the install? Any regrets at this point? I'll be doing a Chevy swap eventually and I've seriously considered the 6.5 TD to make a nice tow rig/road trip vehicle. Do you have anything else wrote up on what you've done so far?

Thanks,

Jeremy
http://www.iowa4wd.com/
http://www.jeepinrocks.com/

[Cherokee-Kid]

Ya I see what you mean with the motor mount, no other solution with that particular mount. Unfortunatly I don't have any pictures of what I did. My dad helped me fab mounts from 3" thick wall tube welded to an angle iron base, utilizing the stock frame holes. On the motor side of my mount is a tube welded to the 3" tubing flattened down. This excepts the motor mount bolt of '69 Camaro style motor mounts. These bolt up to a small block mid motor. Don't the Novaks mount to the front of SBC and your diesel?

Good to hear that it is excempt. I think you are on to something here with the diesel swap, probably see a few others doing this in the near future.

[DieselSJ]

The mounts are from Advance. I have the Novak mounts in my CJ, and I can tell you that the frame piece of the Advance mounts are much heavier than the Novak mounts.

Regrets? No. Would I do it again? Well, I can't answer that until I drive it. If I did another, I would take a serious look at a 4 cyl Cummins. The 6.5 is wider than a BBC, so it has created a few challenges that the Cummins would not have. Notice that I have NO room for the factory heater box. I'm going to use a system from Vintage Air for heat and A/C. On the other side, there is no room for a brake booster. I went with a Hydroboost from a full sized GM truck, and I had to mount it upside-down because the accumulator wanted to hit the injector lines. I found that the Waggy master cyl would not bolt to the truck hydroboost, so I had to use a truck master cyl. Other problem was with the steering clearance. I have the engine mounted as far back as I can - I have about 1/2" between the back of the head and the firewall and I'm going to have clearance problems with the radiator. I have about 3" between the front of the water pump pulley and the radiator - the overall length of the fan clutch and fan is almost 5". I'm going to have to do some major surgery to the front clip so that I can move the radiator forward AND so I can mount a larger radiator. I think I have a fairly straightforward design that will allow me to run a late model GM truck sized radiator with a 28" by 17" core, or even a slightly earlier 28x19 size. Either way, I'll probably have to run dual electric fans.

Project is temporarily on hold - sort of. We are in a condo until we buy a house, and I have no room to store it here. Fortunately I have a relative that has a good friend that owns a body shop in Orange County and he said that I could store it there. While it is there I'm going to have them fix a couple problem spots on the body, so the time isn't totally lost.

I don't have a lot left to do - install wiring harness in engine compartment, fuel system, drive shafts, install and plumb engine oil and trans coolers, and cooling system are the major items that I still have to deal with.

I'm taking lots of notes and pictures. I'll post the whole thing when I'm done.

[Cherokee-Kid]

Sounds like the typical neuances of an engine swap. It's just too bad some of the essential parts for these kinda swaps eren't readily available. We'll good luck. Keep us posted. It's gonna be a torque MONSTER when your done.

[Don in Missouri]

What transfer case are you using?

[DieselSJ]

Don - I am using the 229. If it grenades, then I'll go to a 208. If I had to do it again, I would have found a 241 so that I wouldn't have to use any adapters.

[Don in Missouri]

Thanks, I just spent the last hour searching old posts, and found that answer, but have many more.

I have an '86 with the NP228 T-case. I like the versatility of all or part-time 4WD, and it is a geared differential instead of the viscous coupling like the 229. I guess the 241 offers similar performance? Are you changing the length of dirveshafts?

I found a 80K mile 6.2 locally for $450. I am enticed by the price and locality. Externally, the 6.2 and 6.5 are the same size, right? I'm anxious to see how you get your radiator to clear. I would want an overdrive tanny like the 700R4 you chose.

I'm trying to go cheap, which is probably a recipe for disaster. I've got less than 20K on my fresh 360 with cam, and Autolite 4 barrel. It is running better than ever, but gas mileage is killing me.

[Don in Missouri]

My local shop says they will rebuild an '87 and later 700R4 for $600, no core charge. Is there anything I should verify with them to make sure they build it right? They are probably not used to building Diesel trannys.

[Don in Missouri]

More research tells me the 241 case is part-time only. Is there a GM t-case that offers full-time 4H and part-time 4L? I like to be able to run full-time for snowy/icy highways, and I want it locked when I'm offroad.

It looks like almost $500 for an adapter between the 700R4 and my NP228.

If I have to give up full-time 4H, I might as well go to a gear-driven t-case.

[keej]

DieselSJ, thanks for taking the time to write all of that up. I'm definately interested in reading more and following the project as you go.

Thank you...

[DieselSJ]

Yes, the 241 is only a part time case. If you go with a 241 it saves the cost of the adapter. I also liked the idea of having the full-time option which is why I opted for the 229. I will have to get the shafts redone - the rear needs shortened and the front needs lengthened. I'm actually getting an entire new rear shaft so I can run heavier ujoints (1350).

That 6.2 you found sounds like a great deal. Those engines easily go 250-300K if you take care of them. Go here for great forums related to the 6.2/6.5 - http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

Externally the engines are identical. The only difference is the bore.

If you have a shop rebuild a 700r4, you should go to someplace like Art Carr or Jet and get all of their 700r4 upgrade pieces. The only real difference between a gas and diesel version is the torque converter and where they set the shift points.

A non-turbo engine will probably be a little weak - about 160hp and 280ft/lbs of torque, but you would get excellent mileage. I found that a stock 6.5l turbo exhaust manifold fits better than any of the aftermarket units (Banks, ATS, etc...). Those manifolds show up frequently on Ebay. That and a GM8 turbo from a 96-up 6.5 makes a very economical turbo setup that will get you about 230hp and 400ft/lbs. Torque peak on those engines is about 1800rpm. The turbo that I am using is the one that Banks sells for the early Ford 7.3 engines. I should be able to get numbers in the 250/450 range with about 10-12 psi of boost. With an intercooler, I should be able to safely run 15 psi and get up around 475+. I don't think that 44 in the rear is going to last very long...

[ August 07, 2004, 11:13 AM: Message edited by: DieselSJ ]

[joe]

The np219 from 80-82 FSJ's are full-time with a 4H(full-time and no 2H mode)) and also a 4H LOCK and 4L. The later two for slippery traction roads only. The GM np203 is also a full-time case but it's pass side output.

[Don in Missouri]

I guess you are going to run the stock '87 grill? That will give you more room to move the radiator forward. I don't want to give up my Gladiator grill, and I don't see any way to move the radiator forward short of moving the whole front end and lengthening the hood and fenders.