People with 9+" of lift.

[BassnTruck]

After the "Should I keep lifting it thread" seeing how many of you have about the same lift I have. I want to know what yall are doing about your drivelines.

I am almost done with my 60 14bolt install. Havent been messing with it in the heat since I do not need to. But I had my front drive shaft rebuilt and had it extended 2" to fit. I currently have 3"BL, 4" leaf, and SOA. I plan on running 39.5s

My front 60 is no where near attaching to my driveshaft with it at full droop (shaft) with the axle flat. I thought about adding some shims to the front to help the angle a tad. As you know with the 60 I can not rotate the housing. The 14 is not an issue with me welding on new perches.


So what is everyone doing to get shafts to work. I was going to call HighAngle Driveline. The degrees on the front shaft will be real sharp. Not sure if 1410 joint will work better or if ontop of that put double cardan joints on both ends.

Tell me what ya did and what it cost if ya want.

Thanks

[orangecherokee]

When I linked the rear I twisted the chunk to accomodate the lift. I'd say if you ain't skeered then do that. For the front I run a 6 degree shim. I don't drive it on the road so it doesn't bother me that it's that steep. I run a 1350/1410 set up on the rear and a 1350/1310 set up on the front with no binding.

[malodin]

my 14 bolt rear and th400/d300 tcase allowed me to use the stock type drive shaft i had that was just a little longer for my skyjacker lift....my front is another story, i have to use a double cardan style on the t-case side and at full droop its 30 1/2" joint to joint mating surface....my longest doublecardan style shaft i have is 29" at full extension.

[20ozJolt]

the drive lines were y i was tinking about lifting it more...:)
i dont want to have to do them twice... but alas i cant afford the axles...:(
the one thought i did have for all u crazys out there
(i will join u one day soon) :D
duce axles are top loaders right? and they would lower ur CG becaust there so D#$m hevy... y arnt more of u running them, there are cheep duces all over the place just wating to be parted-out..... so shorter less extreem drivelines and lower cog:thumbsup:

[malodin]

most of our wheelers are also at least semi daily drivers. It takes alot of money to convert the rockwells into disk breaks and safe enough to drive on the street....where as you can get 3/4t chevy axles for 500 or less for the entire truck and have a good set of strong axles under....at least that is why i didnt go the rockwell route.

[Big-wagon87]

I have a 3" body 1"bj's shack, SOA w/1.5 spring perches on a D 60 in the front. the rear is 6"bj's spring with 2" blocks I have 37's and they dont rub I am getting ready to trim the fenders this week I could run 40's easy.:thumbsup:

[Tad]

SOA here on a FSJ HD44 (about 6 3/4") + 2" springs and 2" body lift, running 315's (about 34.5"), I'd guess that's about 12 3/4" total.
I follow most of this and see differences between the front 44/60 folks and obviously the HP runners.

I run sort of an oddball (most folks said I was stupid) configuration:
Dodge 208 mated to a TH400.
My front shaft came from one of those GM guys with 8" of spring lift and a custom front shaft.
I actually had to have it shortened.
1310 at the t-case, 1310 at the front yoke, it's the double cardan (probably saying that wrong) setup at the t-case.
Works fine so far.
For $85 I do not expect it to be around forever.

[Headhoncho]

Suspension wise I have 4" springs, SOA, 4" body lift and 38" tires. My front driveshaft is almost at the limit of it's travel. A buddy of mine said you can get high angle yolks for the pinion and the driveshaft to give plenty of angle. He unfortunately didn't tell me about it until after my driveshafts were made so I clearanced around the u-joints myself to help. d44/**14 Bolt.

JR

[imiceman44]

After the "Should I keep lifting it thread" seeing how many of you have about the same lift I have. I want to know what yall are doing about your drivelines.

I am almost done with my 60 14bolt install. Havent been messing with it in the heat since I do not need to. But I had my front drive shaft rebuilt and had it extended 2" to fit. I currently have 3"BL, 4" leaf, and SOA. I plan on running 39.5s

My front 60 is no where near attaching to my driveshaft with it at full droop (shaft) with the axle flat. I thought about adding some shims to the front to help the angle a tad. As you know with the 60 I can not rotate the housing. The 14 is not an issue with me welding on new perches.


So what is everyone doing to get shafts to work. I was going to call HighAngle Driveline. The degrees on the front shaft will be real sharp. Not sure if 1410 joint will work better or if ontop of that put double cardan joints on both ends.

Tell me what ya did and what it cost if ya want.

Thanks

I have SOA and 3" BL, so I am almost at 9" maybe 8.5"
The rear was fine since I have enough length, but the front obviously didn't like it much since I blew my CV and destryed my Tranny.
Now I am working on the new setup and haven't decided yet.
One of my thoughts which is the easiest is to get high angle yokes. But I think my ultimate solution will be adding klune V to lengthen the driveline and make the angles better. :thumbsup:

Oh and I was told I can get a better crawl ratio that way, hmm I guess that 's good too. :D

[Big-wagon87]

pic of 9" lift with 37" boggers

[Bob Barry]

I'm running a front D60 SOA with who-knows what for lift (probably less than the stock flat springs would provide: see my 52" front spring post for a description). I tried to make a Chevy K30 front CV work by clearancing it, but it was going to be marginal at best. I bit the bullet, called Jess at High-Angle Driveline, and by the end of the week, the following arrived at my doorstep: :D

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/had10.jpg

With my front suspension setup, I needed the 42º operating angle that the 1-ton CV provides:

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/had11.jpg

I had to clearance my TH400's pan a bit; you couldn't really do it if your tranny had a cast-aluminum pan:

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/had13.jpg

It's probably the most expensive thing I put on my truck, but it gives me lots of confidence when I have to be heavy on the gas-pedal on the rocks:

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/had14.jpg

I also upgraded to 1410 yokes at all other points; below is a size-comparison:

from top-to-bottom:

1410
1350 (??? it was what I pulled off my 14-bolt)
D44 yoke

http://drbob.tqhosting.com/cherokee/had03.jpg

If I had to start from scratch and do it all over again, though, I'd probably run my divorced Ford NP205 box and find a Ford high-pinion D60, which would allow me to run straight 1410 joints at both ends of both driveshafts, and really reduce the front-driveshaft operating angle.

[Big-wagon87]

Nice!!! how much did that set you back? My drive lines were custom made but not with a cv.

[Bob Barry]

Nice!!! how much did that set you back? My drive lines were custom made but not with a cv.

With the front and rear driveshaft and the three 1410 yokes (D60, 14b and NP205), I think the bill came to about $1400.

[BassnTruck]

Bob,

Yous looks alot better then mine does. Here are a few picks with my rebuild 2" extended "stock" shaft with 1 trip on in (uggg)

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep010-1.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep009-1.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep008-1.jpg
No it is not resting on the crossmember.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep007-1.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep006-1.jpg

[Bob Barry]

Bob,

Yous looks alot better then mine does. Here are a few picks with my rebuild 2" extended "stock" shaft with 1 trip on in (uggg)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/Jeep006-1.jpg

That's about what my stock K30 front-shaft looked like before I ground the yokes for extra travel. But I just *barely* got it to hook-up. If I were to run it, I'd have to run limiting-straps that would basically allow no droop to my axle. :(

I figured if I was going to build the rig to flex, it would dumb to add things that would stop it from flexing.

[imiceman44]

That's about what my stock K30 front-shaft looked like before I ground the yokes for extra travel. But I just *barely* got it to hook-up. If I were to run it, I'd have to run limiting-straps that would basically allow no droop to my axle. :(

I figured if I was going to build the rig to flex, it would dumb to add things that would stop it from flexing.

I have always thought about that and after seing how the Range Rovers are built they have 3 shocks in the back, one on each side and one in the middle, they don't droop too much but they flex like hell.
What we need is flex and the middle of the axle doesn't need to move too much so limiting the center is the way to go.
Also with the range rover straight line driving is more controled without sacrificing the side to side soft suspension.
The rear Driveshaft is centered and the front is close enough to where it will not move too much if the center is limited.
I haven't done it yet but I already have the plans on how I will.

[Elliott]

With the front and rear driveshaft and the three 1410 yokes (D60, 14b and NP205), I think the bill came to about $1400.

...that's what I'm trying to sock some money away for now the doubler's built.:thumbsup:

[welchct]

mooved the motor back a foot and down 6"

[BassnTruck]

Well I guess before I drop the coin for shafts I will have to figure out what trans and case I will be using after the 4bt gets in there.

[Slick Willie]

Well I guess before I drop the coin for shafts I will have to figure out what trans and case I will be using after the 4bt gets in there.

The rear is possible to make without spending any coin on custom shafts. That being said, for the front, I would narrow it down to two options:

A) Choose a tranny/tcase combo that's as long as possible (2wd tranny w/ divorced tcase, doubler, klune, etc.)
B) Bite the bullet and get High Angle Drivelines to ship you a front shaft to your door.

Adjusting your front axle a lot makes your tires turn against the ground instead of side to side. Without hydraulic steering, and with the angles that you would have to pull to get yours to work, that would not be desirable. Clocking a tcase down to make the angle better works for driveshaft angles, but sucks for rock clearance.

FWIW, I'm at about 7" on the front with a short tranny/tcase combo and run a 1350/1350 square tubing shaft. No shims, no CV, no problems so far. The real testing is yet to come though.

[orangecherokee]

With the front and rear driveshaft and the three 1410 yokes (D60, 14b and NP205), I think the bill came to about $1400.

that has got to be a misprint. did you really pay $1400 for driveshafts and three yokes?

[Bob Barry]

that has got to be a misprint. did you really pay $1400 for driveshafts and three yokes?

The three yokes were about $70 each, so $210 there.

The front 1-ton CV driveshaft with the 1410 yoke was about $740.

The balance was in the rear driveshaft (.120 wall, 1410 joints at both ends) and shipping.

I suppose I could have dropped my NP205, but that would have reduced the clearance (right now, the bottom of it is flush with the framerail).

Out on the trail, it's worth every penny. :)

But like I said, in retrospect a divorced Ford NP205 and high-pinion D60 would have been the better way to go.

[Desert Beast]

that has got to be a misprint. did you really pay $1400 for driveshafts and three yokes?

yup aint no misprint. jess is high dollar and high quality. i have 2 of his shafts in my rig. i didnt need any cv's but my 2 shafts neared 1k.

no other shop local or otherwise would/could build them how i needed them. (3" .25wall w/ 1410's)

[Bob Barry]

yup aint no misprint. jess is high dollar and high quality. i have 2 of his shafts in my rig. i didnt need any cv's but my 2 shafts neared 1k.

no other shop local or otherwise would/could build them how i needed them. (3" .25wall w/ 1410's)

That's why I went with him.

I could have hacked some type of cheaper solution together myself or through a local place, but then you'd have seen a post about my broken driveshaft taking out some other components and ruining my day.

I tried to get that stock K30 shaft to work, but the compromises were not worth it.

I've also candy-striped my rear shaft out on the rocks, and it's held up great. I now have a Great-Lakes 14-bolt shield to protect the rear yoke, as the rocks were messing up the ears, but that's not Jess's fault... :)

[BassnTruck]

The rear is possible to make without spending any coin on custom shafts. That being said, for the front, I would narrow it down to two options:

A) Choose a tranny/tcase combo that's as long as possible (2wd tranny w/ divorced tcase, doubler, klune, etc.)
B) Bite the bullet and get High Angle Drivelines to ship you a front shaft to your door.

Adjusting your front axle a lot makes your tires turn against the ground instead of side to side. Without hydraulic steering, and with the angles that you would have to pull to get yours to work, that would not be desirable. Clocking a tcase down to make the angle better works for driveshaft angles, but sucks for rock clearance.

FWIW, I'm at about 7" on the front with a short tranny/tcase combo and run a 1350/1350 square tubing shaft. No shims, no CV, no problems so far. The real testing is yet to come though.


It will be getting a full hydro steering setup. My Box is leakig and now is a good of time as any to dump it all together. If I get the 4bt running and a trans picked out there is a good chance I will just get a 4 speed atlas.