77' Wagoneer AC Compressor Clutch / Pinging Problems

[smonter]

Lately my AC compressor clutch has been starting to squeal even when not engaged. I think it's the clutch anyway but it may be bearings. How difficult is it to repair one of these and should I even attempt it myself? Anyone have a close cost estimate?

By the way I got the Carb and Ignition rebuilt and it runs great (401 V8) thanks for the people who made suggestions.

My last question was concerning pinging at high load situations with this setup. It has been converted to points/condensor so should I set the timing to something around 5 BTDC or go with the 8 BTDC that the stock ignition had? When I stomp on the gas with it warmed up I hear pinging but it doesn't do it cold and only does it at high load or full throttle. Suggestions?

BTW anyone have repair manuals on one of these? I could use all the help I can get. Thanks guys.

[ October 10, 2002, 11:00 PM: Message edited by: smonter ]

[KeyWest FSJ]

First what are you driving? If you are in a older model 70's early 80's and have the York piston type compressor, its much cheaper and easier to replace the whole thing. I heard getting a compressor clutch off and back on can be a bear. What you hear are the bearings etc going bad in the pull wheel on the clutch. If you go that route, those compressors, with the clutch on them, will run you $150 or less most anywhere. Good luck!

[River Beast]

AC Clutch has a brass bearing that squeals when they go out... mine did the same thing... get a new clutch and pulley assembly... around $130

Pinging is usually meaning too far advanced...

[smonter]

Thanks for the help guys, I haven't got the compressor clutch problems totally worked out yet but I'm taking it in tomorrow to have some stuff on it looked at. Since I don't have equipment for checking a CFC-12 system I don't really want to mess with the AC myself.

However I did get the timing adjusted, somehow it had slid from 6-7 BTDC to 12 BTDC and that is why it was pinging. I readjusted the timing and it runs excellent now. The carb rebuild and ignition tune have done wonders for the running condition. I also ordered new window and door seals for the widows today so I can get it all fixed up before winter.

Does anyone have any suggestions for taking the points ignition and putting in a ballast resistor bypass for cold starts? I'd like to put in a bypass shunt for when you are cranking the engine that turns off when you let off the key but I'm unsure how to hook it up. I know I need a relay and a simple bypass harness to do this. Any pointers?

[coolram]

Why do you want to continue using points when you can go with an electronic conversion that will fit in your same dist. body?Pertronix and mallory make stand alone kits.

[joe]

Originally posted by smonter:
Does anyone have any suggestions for taking the points ignition and putting in a ballast resistor bypass for cold starts? I'd like to put in a bypass shunt for when you are cranking the engine that turns off when you let off the key.Unless the wiring has been messed with that's the way it came from the factory. The ballast resistor is already by-passed when the ign switch is in the START/ mode. Juice only goes through the resistor in the ON/ position.