rattlecan paint job

[jmhat98]

I am getting ready to rattlecan the wagoneer in the next couple of weeks. How many cans of paint should I expect it to take to complete the job. I will be painting at my family farm and would like to make sure that I have enough paint when I get started so that I dont have to untape things and go into town and come back and retape to finish the job. Thanks

[HOOT]

I went through about 12 cans.. I also painted in 55 degrees in the garage on a humid night in the winter. It helped with keeping the paint from drying to quick. I run a scouring pad over the whole truck and then wiped it down with paint thinner before painting. The paint job actually turned out nice enough for the $35 in paint used. It was supposed to be temporary but has been on for 3 1/2 years now.
http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/hoot/86191.jpg
This is 2 years later and with a fresh wax job.

There is a few pics of it in the link in my sig line.

[jmhat98]

Cool. Thanks for the pics and advice. Why do you not want the paint to dry too fast?
I have not done alot of research on this yet and any advice would be great. Should I wait for better temps? It is hitting 100 pretty consistantly here for the past few days and it is pretty dry for this area.

Thanks

[Gambler68]

lots of sanding.

then sand some more.

clean and primer. sand primer with 320 or so. clean again :)

thin even coats using a nice even swoop side to side, sand off overspray between coats.

[scantar]

What kind of paint would you get? Just something from Home Depot or McParts?

[jmhat98]

I found a color I like in the kilz spray paint cans at walmart. Around $3 a can.

[scantar]

Cool. Interested in seeing how this turns out. :thumbsup:

[BrianAg95]

The other option for "cheap" paintjobs is roll on.....

itsbeen linked from here before but over at the mopar forums there has been a huge 100 page plus thread discussing paints and techniques and results from thsi method... in a nutshell you use "rustoleum" or the new trend near the end of the thread Marine paints, and a foam roller. you thin the paint down and do several coats... but you can get some very nice results... On older cars it even looks the original enamels older cars were painted with pre-clear coat days.... anyway here is the link...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=2348049&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=aab68f8fe95a7508a93ec07bbb2de5a6

[scannman70]

I just painted my fathers toyota with Tractor paint from Tractor supply, $20.00 a gallon. turned out pretty good.

[HOOT]

Keeping it from drying too fast allows better flow of the paint. In a nut shell it won't look like a can job with all the over lap marking. It's still no pro job but looks nice for a while.
Spray from wet to dry area. Matching back into an area already dry is a pain. Do it in sections and it'll look good enough at 10feet or 25 MPH.

If you are rolling on an enamel then using some "china dry" will help give it a smooth look.

[jmhat98]

I just painted my fathers toyota with Tractor paint from Tractor supply, $20.00 a gallon. turned out pretty good.

How did you apply the paint?

[10fenny]

im actually doin this right now with krylons camo ultraflat olive. sand the whole body and fillin small dents. ive done two coats of primer with 800grit wetsand inbtween each coat, then i wet sand at 2000 gritt before last coat, looks really really good. nort sure how many cans ive used so far, meh, dont care, gonna keep a can under the seat for touchups anytime, muhahha

[jmhat98]

Got any pictures?

[scantar]

The other option for "cheap" paintjobs is roll on.....

itsbeen linked from here before but over at the mopar forums there has been a huge 100 page plus thread discussing paints and techniques and results from thsi method... in a nutshell you use "rustoleum" or the new trend near the end of the thread Marine paints, and a foam roller. you thin the paint down and do several coats... but you can get some very nice results... On older cars it even looks the original enamels older cars were painted with pre-clear coat days.... anyway here is the link...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=2348049&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=aab68f8fe95a7508a93ec07bbb2de5a6

Good read and great info. The Charger looks great!

I always did like that light blue color on Wagons, and wouldn't you know it Rustoleum has a color that looks close to it too. :rolleyes:

[Boghog1]

After reading the thing on the mopar forum I painted my XJ with XO-rust (true value brand through a $20 paint gun and a 5hp 30 gallon compressor in my back yard. I put on a total of 6 very thin coats and wet sanded and buffed it after. I don't have pics but it looks good and folks don't beleive I uused that paint.

[Stetson]

I always wondered if the knock off Rustoleum brands worked. Ace Hardware has some pretty good color selections to choose from . . . I may be trying this soon.

[jmhat98]

If I decide to go the spray gun route, what size air compressor would I be able to get by with?

[10fenny]

no pics yet... i was gonna do hvlp, even had a gun, but still like the rattle can

[jeeping1974]

I always wondered if the knock off Rustoleum brands worked. Ace Hardware has some pretty good color selections to choose from . . . I may be trying this soon.

rust-o-leum and Ace's rust stop paint are almost the same. i use to work in an Ace store for years. the Ace rust stop is better (in my opinion, and yes i have used both on vehicles, metal doors, lawn equipment, book cases, driveshafts, amoung some things) than the rust-o-leum paint just and has more selection of colors. just do light, even coats and you'll be fine. use the rust stop primer and rust stop paint and you'll be good to go. I used the rust stop primer and normal enamel paint on a driveshaft and did a few coats of clear coat and it came out awesome and still looks great after 2.5 years on a 99 TJ that wheels. as soon as Ace comes out with an olive green that i like i'll be doing my truck in that.

[Boghog1]

I prefer the knock offs over rustoleum. I always have issues with rustoleum looking decent but I never have the problem with the knock offs, the True value brand can also be tinted. I do not know if ACE is the same but I assume they would be. as for compressor the bigger the better. I have done them with the little contractor pancake style and it sucks but it can be done. with the smaller one I did it a panel at a time.

[Gambler68]

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/bed/paint1.jpg
this is after grinding, sanding, spot filling, about 4 coats of rust block primer, 1 coat of cheap white primer I used as a sanding coat, and two coats of Rusto Gloss White. Probably will leave it at this point for a while while I work on the other side

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/bed/paint2.jpg
this will require a tad bit more work :P

[scantar]

That looks great, Ryan! Is that rattle can??

[Gambler68]

That looks great, Ryan! Is that rattle can??

Si senor. Not a single run in any of those coats. I found the 'trick' is to go back and forth (left to right and back) about 2' at a time with a steady stream, but swiveling at the hips to keep the nozzle about 8" from the surface throughout the entire motion, letting off the nozzle at the end of each way a little. Works for me. Just pointing the can and haphazardly filling in spots doesn't work. Once it's dry to the touch, sand off the overspray lightly. Also put my hand in a sock and run it over the paint, sock will catch on any rough patches so you know where they are too sand off without getting finger oil on the paint.

I always take it down to metal (as you can see on the surface rust on the unpainted pic. There was BAD corrosion under the black vinyl pinstriping, one those HD rust remover double wheels on a drill took care of that, leaving only some minor pitting.

This is just my winter beater, and I enjoy the 'work' it takes. Also lets me do it one section at a time. Tinfoil rocks for masking btw, you can leave it up in the weather forever.

[scantar]

Si senor. Not a single run in any of those coats. I found the 'trick' is to go back and forth (left to right and back) about 2' at a time with a steady stream, but swiveling at the hips to keep the nozzle about 8" from the surface throughout the entire motion, letting off the nozzle at the end of each way a little. Works for me. Just pointing the can and haphazardly filling in spots doesn't work. Once it's dry to the touch, sand off the overspray lightly. Also put my hand in a sock and run it over the paint, sock will catch on any rough patches so you know where they are too sand off without getting finger oil on the paint.

I always take it down to metal (as you can see on the surface rust on the unpainted pic. There was BAD corrosion under the black vinyl pinstriping, one those HD rust remover double wheels on a drill took care of that, leaving only some minor pitting.

This is just my winter beater, and I enjoy the 'work' it takes. Also lets me do it one section at a time. Tinfoil rocks for masking btw, you can leave it up in the weather forever.

That looks freaking great. I'm going to have to rethink this whole Maaco thing. Have you tried one of those trigger thingies that pop onto the top of the can or is it just hold it down with your thumb and go?

Ps: like that tin foil idea :thumbsup:

[Gambler68]

That looks freaking great. I'm going to have to rethink this whole Maaco thing. Have you tried one of those trigger thingies that pop onto the top of the can or is it just hold it down with your thumb and go?

Ps: like that tin foil idea :thumbsup:

nope, I own one but I enjoy the working out on mah trigga finga. :D

tin foil works great. Girlfriend gets mad when there's none left in the kitchen though :cool:

[scantar]

nope, I own one but I enjoy the working out on mah trigga finga. :D

tin foil works great. Girlfriend gets mad when there's none left in the kitchen though :cool:


I think I'm gonna have to give my rear quarters a whirl :) Shiny paint would sure light this Wagon up.

[Tobynine9]

I just did the floorboards of my GW with the Duplicolor do-it-yourself bed liner. The stuff in the aerosol dries to a matte and the stuff applied with the roller dries glossy. I'm thinking of using the matte spray to do the whole exterior now, at least the headliner. It's thick enough that a couple of coats will cover and it doesn't really run. It wouldn't be thick enough after only a coat or two to really protect from impacts and scrapes like it will when thick on a truck bed. But it would be tougher than plain-jane paint.

[mmcswain]

I am toying with the idea of taking off the wood grain on my 89 GW so I can paint it, have any of you done this and not put back the wood grain? If so what did you do with the rivet holes that were left? Thanks for the help.

[Tobynine9]

I'm filling mine in with pop rivets. I have no illusions of this truck every being pretty, though...

[10fenny]

gotta love doin sections at a time, unsure how many colors my jeep is right now. at leaste is mostly black primer on one side. reaally havnt masked off too much, mostly been takin **** off, to further sand and detail.... took the windows out even in the back. pretty easy actually