FSJ members with 6.2/6.5 Diesels

[ohioj20]

Just courious how many of us have Chevy/GMC 6.2/6.5 Diesels or are in the actual process of doing the swap. No tire kicker voters please(meaning: I'm thinking of it, but nothing in the plans).

We may cause people to think it was an actual option!!!

[The PIG Smith]

In process for me.
I have scheduled the weekend of August 4th to go trailer my donor home.

[ninjaneer]

Installed and running well. Just need to fix one of the bands on the 700r4 and get that installed instead of running the Jeep TH400.

[DieselSJ]

Installed, running and daily driven. I have over 7K miles on it already.

[ohioj20]

9K Miles on mine. the GW that is.

[Grimjaw]

[Minor Hijack/on]

With a 6.2L diesel swap has anyone also put on a turbo? If so, which one and was there any major problems with the fix. Also, is there anyone with the swap and working A/C? What issue came up?

Thanks,

[Minor Hijack/off]

[DieselSJ]

[Minor Hijack/on]

With a 6.2L diesel swap has anyone also put on a turbo? If so, which one and was there any major problems with the fix. Also, is there anyone with the swap and working A/C? What issue came up?

Thanks,

[Minor Hijack/off]

There are 3 options for turbos with the 6.2/6.5. There is the early-body Banks kit for the 6.2, the late-model body kit for the 6.2/6.5, and the factory GM option from the 6.5.

Banks early-body kit - turbo hangs off the front of the passenger side manifold. Measurements told me that you would have to cut a chunk out of the fenderwell and the turbo would protrude into the wheelwell. Factory AC could probably work with this - probably - but there are other issues with the mounting location that make this less than desireable.

Banks late-body kit - turbo mounts above the center ports on the passenger side manifold. It would fit with some hammer work to the inner fender. Also, last time I checked those manifolds were $350+ from Banks. Factory AC box will not work.

GM factory manifold - similar location to the late-model Banks kit, but mounts the turbo higher. But, everything fits with all factory GM/Chevy parts, and the manifolds can be found for <$50 on ebay or even cheaper in wrecking yards. This manifold also flows better than the Banks unit. Factory AC box will NOT work with this location.

I went with the factory GM parts. For AC, I am installing an underdash unit from Vintage Air. All electronic, no vaccum needed.

[The PIG Smith]

There are 3 options for turbos with the 6.2/6.5. There is the early-body Banks kit for the 6.2, the late-model body kit for the 6.2/6.5, and the factory GM option from the 6.5.

Banks early-body kit - turbo hangs off the front of the passenger side manifold. Measurements told me that you would have to cut a chunk out of the fenderwell and the turbo would protrude into the wheelwell. Factory AC could probably work with this - probably - but there are other issues with the mounting location that make this less than desireable.

Banks late-body kit - turbo mounts above the center ports on the passenger side manifold. It would fit with some hammer work to the inner fender. Also, last time I checked those manifolds were $350+ from Banks. Factory AC box will not work.

GM factory manifold - similar location to the late-model Banks kit, but mounts the turbo higher. But, everything fits with all factory GM/Chevy parts, and the manifolds can be found for <$50 on ebay or even cheaper in wrecking yards. This manifold also flows better than the Banks unit. Factory AC box will NOT work with this location.

I went with the factory GM parts. For AC, I am installing an underdash unit from Vintage Air. All electronic, no vaccum needed.

In addition to this great turbo information, from what I've read and understand,
there may one other issue to consider when adding a turbo to a 6.2L motor.

The pistons in a 6.5L turbo motor has a special coating that assists in the operation in a turbo environment, while the 6.2L pistons do not.
There are some detailed discussions over at TheDieselPage forum, if this coating is necessary in a 6.2L motor that has a Turbo added.
The basic idea is that this coating or anodization, helps reduce the ETG (exhaust temperature gases)
and thus allows for higher pressures, more heat and produces more HP.

Here is a link to one of these articles, but unless you are member, you maybe not be able to read it:
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=27713&highlight=piston

[ohioj20]

[Minor Hijack/on]

With a 6.2L diesel swap has anyone also put on a turbo? If so, which one and was there any major problems with the fix. Also, is there anyone with the swap and working A/C? What issue came up?

Thanks,

[Minor Hijack/off]

My dad and I both have working A/C. Used the GMC compressor and the rest is all Jeep. Had to have a automotive a/c shop make new hoses with the correct fittings on each end.

[The PIG Smith]

My dad and I both have working A/C. Used the GMC compressor and the rest is all Jeep. Had to have a automotive a/c shop make new hoses with the correct fittings on each end.

This is the same thing that I plan to do.
Use the stock GM A/C compressor, for it has the brackets, pulleys, etc..all ready to go.
We have a great Radiator shop that does excellent A/C work here in Fort Wayne.
At the proper time, I will take my Wag to them, have them build the correct hoses and finish the A/C install.

[DieselSJ]

In addition to this great turbo information, from what I've read and understand,
there may one other issue to consider when adding a turbo to a 6.2L motor.

The pistons in a 6.5L turbo motor has a special coating that assists in the operation in a turbo environment, while the 6.2L pistons do not.
There are some detailed discussions over at TheDieselPage forum, if this coating is necessary in a 6.2L motor that has a Turbo added.
The basic idea is that this coating or anodization, helps reduce the ETG (exhaust temperature gases)
and thus allows for higher pressures, more heat and produces more HP.

Here is a link to one of these articles, but unless you are member, you maybe not be able to read it:
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=27713&highlight=piston


Yes, this is true. With a 6.2, you want to keep EGT below 1000, and you don't want to keep it at that temp for long. With the 6.5, you can run sustained EGT of about 1200 or so. Cooling passages in the 6.5 heads also help with the sustained EGT.

EGT is one of the most important things to monitor with a diesel. EVERY diesel should have an EGT gauge.