View Full Version : double u joints
tylerd13
06-28-2007, 08:49 PM
whats the deal on double u joints my front drive shaft has them on my d20, are they strong, I'm new on the whole driveline stuff. need some ideas, getting ready to get some custom driveshafts made.
Warmachine
06-28-2007, 09:12 PM
Cardon u-joint..helps reduce driveline issues (pinion angle amongst many others) mainly in my book. Do a search on cardon u-joints and you'll find a truck load of info is available.
tylerd13
06-28-2007, 09:13 PM
thanks
malodin
06-28-2007, 09:37 PM
tyler there is a really good artical by tom woods in a jeep magazine that is escaping my mind right now(its a smaller pub, im pretty sure its the one that was put out by people on here a few years ago) lots of good reads when it comes to the drive shafts.
HotRodYJ
06-29-2007, 04:39 AM
Double Cardon Joint is the real name for them. Some just call them CV joints (Constant Velocity). As mentioned before, they came from the factory on most front d-shafts to deal with vibrations. Fairly easy to get proper geometry for a rear d-shaft but difficult to have both front and rear shafts at the correct angles. The CV makes up for that difference. A Double Cardon is basically just two standard U-joints connected with a centering ball. For most applications, it litterally uses the same U-joint in the CV as is on the other end of the shaft all by itself. Baby Jeep guys use these type shafts on the rear when they lift over 4" to deal with vibrations also. The factory d-shaft on my YJ was 15" joint to joint. You can imagine what happens to angles when you lift much at all. The CV should be just as strong as the single joint of the same size. I actually have proof. I ran a stock Waggy front shaft as my rear shaft in my YJ. I twisted the tube completely in two but the joints are fine.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/100_0411.jpg
rockjeep44
06-29-2007, 06:26 AM
I hate CV joints. I would only use one if I had weird driveline issues. 1410 is the answer to all your problems.
tylerd13
06-29-2007, 08:35 AM
ya like I said earlyer, I don't really know anythin bout drivelines, but I'm studyin up becasue I'm getting ready to call jessey at high angle to get some made. but i'm lost, I'm down with makin my d20 stonger so I was lookin at the advance adapters 32 spline output, but that has a 1350 yoke, and the front output it stock. then I found the these 1410 yokes for the front and rear, but it use the stock 10 spline. so i'm kinda stuck right now, any tips or ideas.
Slick Willie
06-29-2007, 08:47 AM
Ditch the D20. Get a different tcase with 32 spline outputs.
tylerd13
06-29-2007, 08:48 AM
ya I was kinda thinkin bout that, I don't know what to get tho, whats a decent tcase..
Slick Willie
06-29-2007, 09:01 AM
Look here for Tcase Data Sheets:
http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/transfer_cases.htm
Cast housing + gear driven tcases = Strong
Aluminum housing + chain driven tcases = Less Strong, but fine for single tcase uses
BRUTUS
06-29-2007, 09:44 AM
ya like I said earlyer, I don't really know anythin bout drivelines, but I'm studyin up becasue I'm getting ready to call jessey at high angle to get some made. but i'm lost, I'm down with makin my d20 stonger so I was lookin at the advance adapters 32 spline output, but that has a 1350 yoke, and the front output it stock. then I found the these 1410 yokes for the front and rear, but it use the stock 10 spline. so i'm kinda stuck right now, any tips or ideas.
Incorrect. The AA 32 spline D20 output comes with a 1310 yoke just like stock. The only difference is that it is 1" longer (yoke to flange) than the stock output.
adamsclarke
06-29-2007, 10:12 AM
I've been dealing with Jess as well..and if you have the $$ just pony up for the atlas.....but if not...get one of his pimp 1350 CVs on the xfer case end and a 1410 on the axle end.....about as close to bullet proof as you can get.
rockjeep44
06-29-2007, 01:58 PM
Someone please tell me what you'd want to run a CV over a standard u-joint. Those 1350 CVs don't impress me at all. When I built my buggy I went 1410 everywhere and can max out my flex without binding. I had to grind the yoke on the front a little bit but there is so much beef there it hasn't been an issue. A straight up 1410 joint is bulletproof and there is much less crap to go wrong when compared to a CV.
Desert Beast
06-29-2007, 02:21 PM
Someone please tell me what you'd want to run a CV over a standard u-joint. Those 1350 CVs don't impress me at all. When I built my buggy I went 1410 everywhere and can max out my flex without binding. I had to grind the yoke on the front a little bit but there is so much beef there it hasn't been an issue. A straight up 1410 joint is bulletproof and there is much less crap to go wrong when compared to a CV.
yup. im all 1410 here also. its a lot simpler and less to break. plus a 1350cv is $$.
andrew, if you ever needed to get more clearance for the front those tom woods offset joints work pretty **** well. my buddy runs one and its held up to some pretty tough abuse.
rockjeep44
06-29-2007, 03:57 PM
Yea, they are pretty cool. Do they make one in a 1410? Right now I'm golden, just touched the 1410 yoke with the die grinder and it was all good.
adamsclarke
06-29-2007, 04:13 PM
I'll be running one because my truck will see some street time. I may be able to go dual 1410s...but since I am doing an atlas w/ebrake..Jess already sets them up with the 1350 CV flange.....so its only a few bucks more for me.
HotRodYJ
06-29-2007, 05:25 PM
I would not run a CV unless your running such severe angles that it's required. Since I broke the d-shaft on the YJ, I've moved the rear axle back another 12", 4 linked it, and it's getting a standard d-shaft instead of the CV. CV's are a royal pain in the rear to work with.
Slick Willie
06-29-2007, 05:43 PM
CV's are for road wheelers and high angles. If you can't make a 1410 work on angles, maybe you'd have to get a CV. But I don't see any road, so I don't see CV's. And I keep my COG low so angles aren't that bad either.
tylerd13
06-30-2007, 12:06 AM
Ya I think 1410 is way to go, as for the tcase, I don't know much about any tcases, but I was going to spend around 1300 on my d20 (1410 outputs, 3to one 1 tera low ect) and I was lookin on the high angle site and saw the stack 2 speed box, I filled out the thing with everything I wanted and it was only 1800, If I was to sell my d20/th400 a long with my 72 I would have almost enough to get the stack 2 speed.
adamsclarke
06-30-2007, 04:44 AM
With the stak..if you want to run a speedo for street stuff...factor in the speedo plug in from stak and a new electronic speedo....so there's a few hundred more right there.
Desert Beast
06-30-2007, 11:34 AM
Yea, they are pretty cool. Do they make one in a 1410? Right now I'm golden, just touched the 1410 yoke with the die grinder and it was all good.
ya he makes a 1410 one. thats what my buddy is running.
tylerd13
06-30-2007, 11:44 AM
how will 1410s do at higher speeds, I will be running tihs on the street, not as a dd but to get to the trails, and just around town,
rockjeep44
06-30-2007, 05:45 PM
Just as good as any other joint.
tylerd13
06-30-2007, 05:57 PM
alright rad
shimniok
06-30-2007, 08:00 PM
Spelling police here. :D It's double-cardAn ... just posting in case someone wanted to search... but then again Google would probably suggest the right spelling anyway.
vBulletin v3.5.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.