QT?

[Waggie82lim]

In my 82 Wag i have the quadra trac with full time 4 wheel drive, i love the hi lock, but not the constant 4wd, is there a transfer case out there that has 2wd and 4hi lk? and if so how hard of a job is it to do to replace it. Cost wise also.

[Bob Barry]

You have the NP219 version of the QT; it should have four modes available:

4Hi Normal
4Hi Lock
Neutral
4Lo (also Lock)

So it should already have the 4wd mode you're looking for. The only transfer-case with the above modes PLUS a 2wd position is an NP242 Selectrac as used on the XJ Cherokees. It could be adapted to work, but you would have to deal with the slip yoke out back, in contrast to the FSJ's fixed yoke setup. Converting the case to a fixed-yoke can be accomplished with a $800 kit.

[MtnNate]

You could always go with the part time kit for about $550 from Quadratrac Catalog. It gives ya a new improved chain and OD too.
Most people say that the difference in mileage isn't really worth it though. Why don't ya like the full time 4wd?

[joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MtnNate:
You could always go with the part time kit for about $550 from Quadratrac Catalog. <hr></blockquote>
Before you get your hopes up Matt, the above conversion kit won't work in your version of the QT. Yours is the later NP219 "also known as Quadratrac" x-case(1980-82). The kit is only for the original Borg-Warner QT's used from 1973-79.

You could swap in a later NP229 Selectrac, driveshafts, vac shift assembly etc. It has a 2WD mode but the front shaft will still be turning even in 2WD mode so then you'll need to add unlocking hubs but then risk burning the x-case up if you ever try to run it in 4WD with the hubs unlocked.
I assume you're trying for better gas mileage...if so just save the conversion money for gas or getting the motor in-tune and up to spec. The hassle and expense of converting isn't going to gain you maybe a mile or so per gallon. If your motor and all the drivetrain were brand new fresh you'd prolly get a couple of mpgs but I doubt it on a 100,000 old running gear and motor.

[desert_freak]

I second the tuning suggestion, I don't know anybody that has gained any significant mileage from a part-time set up. With the money and hassle involved with doing it, you would have to drive a LOT of miles at 1mpg better mileage to pay for the conversion. But then again if you put 10,000 miles a year on your rig it could pay for itself in short order, but if your doing that you should really consider a better mileage vehicle and save the Jeep for play :D

P.J.

[porchpiggy]

If you want 2wd, and 4hi lock, (and of course, 4lo lock) go with an NP208. The 229 does not have a 4 hi lock, 4hi is "full time" with that visc coupling limited slip thing. :cool:

[Waggie82lim]

The reason why i don't like the full time 4wd is because i do alot of town driving stoping and starting and acceleration sucks in 4wd.

[joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Waggie82lim:
The reason why i don't like the full time 4wd is because i do alot of town driving stoping and starting and acceleration sucks in 4wd.<hr></blockquote>
Even in 4H witha a 219 you are in 2WD till you hit a slick spot in the road/wet leaves etc and the x-case kicks in the front axle. Your less than stellar "off the line" performance is a rear axle gearing function. All stock x-cases have a 1:1 ratio in 2WD or 4WD in HI range.
Stock 2.73 gears in an 80 up Wag(nor 3.31 optionals) aren't exactly "zippy" gears when trying to propell a 5000 lb steel barn off the line(aka: in-town/x-way ramps etc) regardless of the motor/x-case/trans you have. If you want more pep in town(and especially offroad) see about re-gearing both axles.
The NP219 x-case you have isn't a bad one for a full-time case. I'd see about working on your axle gear ratio situation if you need more power on the street ;)

[Waggie82lim]

How would a guy go about working on the axel gear ratio setup?

[Rande]

You need a mechanic experienced in gear set-up. This won't be cheap.
You need to determine what gears you now have. There should be a tag on either axle with the ratio marked on it. You should see a number like: 2.72 or 3.07 or maybe 3.31. Then you need to decide what sort of axle you have in front and in back. An 82 would have a Dana44 in front and an AMC model 20 in back. Then you need to decide what gear you want to go to.
Once that is all done, go shopping for a mechanic.

[joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Waggie82lim:
How would a guy go about working on the axel gear ratio setup?<hr></blockquote>
Like Rande said it's best left to a pro if you're sorta new to this. It's not rocket science but you do need a couple special tools, the factory shop manual and the ability to pay attention to detail..."close enough" won't cut it here. You'll need need both differentials done and the swap is 'ballpark' about $1200 to have a shop do it. Stick with a known driveline shop that does this regularly...stay away from Bubba's General Auto Repair type places. It's expensive so you want it done correctly.

[Joe J-Truck]

Check on the cover of the front diff. Between the side bolts, you'll most likely find a tag. Clean off the grime and you'll find some numbers, usually these will tell you the ring and pinion gear's tooth count. Divide one by the other and you have your axle gear ratio.
One cheaper way to go is to swap entire front and rear axle assemblies from another jeep. The ID tag is useful in determining the ratio of potential donor vehicles as well!
I've heard the QT parttime conversion is weak. My buddy, who wheels a QT in a very hardcore manner, broke two kits in the same place, both the first time out on the trail.
He went back to factory setup fulltime and no more parts snapping. Keep in mind, this guy takes his chero to the limit. He's got locked axles, big tires, low gears and lots of big, ugly dents. My hero!
The PT kit would probably survive if someone were nice to it.
I keep trying to get him to hang out with us FSJers in cyber-land, but he'd rather wrench or hit the trail in realtime.

[Waggie82lim]

the rear diff was replaced in 94 due to it siezing up on the highway while doing 85 kms hauling a 6500 lbs camping trailer lol!