Dual OBA tanks

[etjeep]

Finally got some pix of my dual on-board-air tank set-up.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/559006269rQAnES
I paid $20 for the tanks at a repair shop and probly close to $20 in fittings. I made up the brackets from anything I could find in my scrap bin. When I plasma-ed the tanks off the base, I got carried away and cut a little too much so I was practicing my fill-in welding so it might look ugly. I welded one big washer on the existing tank bung so I could add supports but otherwise I did not weld on the tank itself.

So this tucks up nicely where the stock gas tank used to be and gives me about 5-gallons of air capacity. I could have bought a 2.5 gallon tank for $60-$100, but I could not find anything that had five gallons, so I had my fun. I converted my York and bought some other components to complete the set-up. Can't wait to try it!

[etjeep]

Oh and these are just interim shots. When I finish the skid plate mods, a narrowed stock gas tank skid plate will go back and the fuel lines will be secured.

[orangecherokee]

I must be missing something because all I see is the back of your Jeep.

[etjeep]

Thanks OC, I fixed the link.

[orangecherokee]

I like that and I was going to mount my little tank underneath but I keep having this vision of me bottoming out on a rock and poking a huge hole in the tank.

edit: just to clarify, I know you're putting a skid on there but I'm just a puss.

[etjeep]

I have two sets of tanks and initially planned on putting them both there, but it just added to the complexity so I reverted to the one dual-tank setup. I guess that makes me a puss too. I have space under the backseat ledge, but I want to reserve that for an auxilliary gas tank in the future. I'll figure out what size aux gas tank once I add my 63" rear springs.

Hopefully this will provide a nice burst of air if I have to set a bead or something:rolleyes:

[BRUTUS]

Hopefully this will provide a nice burst of air if I have to set a bead or something:rolleyes:

You know the best way to set a bead is with a ratchet strap around the tire (or the match+flammable gas method) right?

I like the idea but I really think that is ALOT of air. I would be suprised if you were able to use all that air on the trail.

[Slick Willie]

Well, but the nice thing is, if 5 wheeling buddies air down to 10 psi in their little jeeps at the trailhead, and have to drive back home, but don't have any air...

If you need it, you have it. If you don't, someone else might. :thumbsup:

[orangecherokee]

You know the best way to set a bead is with a ratchet strap around the tire (or the match+flammable gas method) right?

I like the idea but I really think that is ALOT of air. I would be suprised if you were able to use all that air on the trail.

both of those are dangerous as hell if not performed correctly. I like the ratchet strap method personally. i can at least control the outcome. I see the benefits of having that much air like when you're working on a rig with air tools or resetting a bead.

I'm just hoping my little set up will air me up if needed.

[BRUTUS]

both of those are dangerous as hell if not performed correctly. I like the ratchet strap method personally. i can at least control the outcome. I see the benefits of having that much air like when you're working on a rig with air tools or resetting a bead.

I'm just hoping my little set up will air me up if needed.

I agree.. my point was that the volumetric flow of air is limited by the ID of the hose... so a quick burst of air to re-set a bead isn't necessarily going to do it.

[orangecherokee]

true but the air that is released is steady... at least for a small amount of time.

[etjeep]

You know the best way to set a bead is with a ratchet strap around the tire (or the match+flammable gas method) right?

I like the idea but I really think that is ALOT of air. I would be suprised if you were able to use all that air on the trail.

Brutus,
Yes I know about both the ratchet strap method and the starter fluid/flammable gas method. I have been fortunate never to need on my jeep and have been cautious to keep the tires inflated to 10psi. Been on the trail with someone using a ratchet strap, it works. Personally I want to avoid anything exploding around my jeep.

I don't know how much air I will need on the trail, but I can say this....I have a 25 gal compressor in my garage and when using air tools like a die grinder it sometimes (usually) runs out and I have to wait for the tank to pump back up.

Anyway, now that I have the OBA setup, I can experiment with lower pressures and not worry too much if I lose a bead. I am running the 16.5" wheels and they don't have the same safety bead you find on 15", 16" or 17" wheels.

...and I don't think you can have too much free on-board-air.

[etjeep]

Well, but the nice thing is, if 5 wheeling buddies air down to 10 psi in their little jeeps at the trailhead, and have to drive back home, but don't have any air...

If you need it, you have it. If you don't, someone else might. :thumbsup:

Always willing to help out a bud!:thumbsup:

[etjeep]

both of those are dangerous as hell if not performed correctly. I like the ratchet strap method personally. i can at least control the outcome. I see the benefits of having that much air like when you're working on a rig with air tools or resetting a bead.

I'm just hoping my little set up will air me up if needed.

OC,
I agree concerning the dangers. Yup, air tools and bead setting.

I think you will be able to air up no problem with the smaller tank. I have been the recipient of that benefit curtousy of my little jeep buds.

But, its the bead setting and air tools that I am after, as well as the benefits of airing up.

[etjeep]

I agree.. my point was that the volumetric flow of air is limited by the ID of the hose... so a quick burst of air to re-set a bead isn't necessarily going to do it.

Brutus,
I have 3/8" diameter hose, so it should get there quicker anyway. I am making no claims, but I am not afraid to try it and report back what I find. I do have high hopes though.

[BRUTUS]

Brutus,
I have 3/8" diameter hose, so it should get there quicker anyway. I am making no claims, but I am not afraid to try it and report back what I find. I do have high hopes though.

But it still has to neck down into the air chuck. I am sure it will work great.

[orangecherokee]

engineers... :grumble:

[etjeep]

engineers... :grumble:

Ding, ding, ding....true, but at this point I am just going to run it and see what it will do. Results are better than claims at this point!

[jeepbob]

Get an used tank front rear axle tank from a tandem axle semi tractor as they are about 5 gallon and will give you a relief valve, check valve, mounting brackets, drain valve, & all the ports you could want. Find (or buy) a pressure switch (mine came from an old refergerent/chiller system as I am real cheap) to turn the compressure pump on and off and an anti diesel actuator from an emmision controlled carb to kick up the throttle if needed. Do not forget to put a vent in the the plug for the crank case of the compessor and a filter on the air inlet. As far as resetting beads, remove valve stem core and get a high flow air chuck as used in the tire shops, ratchet strap, and a tire iron. Just keep hands and fingers clear of strap and beads. FYI the tank fits perfect between the frame rail and rocker panel on the right side of the Wag and if you want 2 put one on the drivers side and run a line to the the other tank. I have found that without raising the engine rpm I can run my air ratchet and impcat gun, and with the extra rpm I can run my air drill and air grinder. I do run 2 switches 1 for the comp master and 1 for the rpm kick up solinoid, which after kicked on yo must kick the throttle to kick up. 1 other thing, use a Ford York as they are higher output and if you can find one from a conversion can they are the best and both will bolt up to the AMC bracket. You will most likely have to change the pulley but a FSM will show how to do that. As far as welding to an air tank that is a big no-no by both DOT and OSHA standards (unsafe) but if you have them out of sight who will know. Just remember the releif valve and pressure switch as these compressors are positive displacement and will, crank up to 350 to 375 psi in a hurry and I would wany be any near a bomb like that:eek:

[BRUTUS]

engineers... :grumble:

:bluelaugh:
:bluelaugh:
:bluelaugh:
:bluelaugh:
:bluelaugh:
:bluelaugh:

[etjeep]

Get an used tank front rear axle tank from a tandem axle semi tractor as they are about 5 gallon and will give you a relief valve, check valve, mounting brackets, drain valve, & all the ports you could want. Find (or buy) a pressure switch (mine came from an old refergerent/chiller system as I am real cheap) to turn the compressure pump on and off and an anti diesel actuator from an emmision controlled carb to kick up the throttle if needed. Do not forget to put a vent in the the plug for the crank case of the compessor and a filter on the air inlet. As far as resetting beads, remove valve stem core and get a high flow air chuck as used in the tire shops, ratchet strap, and a tire iron. Just keep hands and fingers clear of strap and beads. FYI the tank fits perfect between the frame rail and rocker panel on the right side of the Wag and if you want 2 put one on the drivers side and run a line to the the other tank. I have found that without raising the engine rpm I can run my air ratchet and impcat gun, and with the extra rpm I can run my air drill and air grinder. I do run 2 switches 1 for the comp master and 1 for the rpm kick up solinoid, which after kicked on yo must kick the throttle to kick up. 1 other thing, use a Ford York as they are higher output and if you can find one from a conversion can they are the best and both will bolt up to the AMC bracket. You will most likely have to change the pulley but a FSM will show how to do that. As far as welding to an air tank that is a big no-no by both DOT and OSHA standards (unsafe) but if you have them out of sight who will know. Just remember the releif valve and pressure switch as these compressors are positive displacement and will, crank up to 350 to 375 psi in a hurry and I would wany be any near a bomb like that:eek:

JeepBob,
Excellent tech! Got any pix to go along with your install? Also, not sure I am understanding the part about putting a vent in the plug for the crank-case of the compressor? I have the inlet filter, I'll have to get some more pix of the rest of my system in the album.

[Zorm]

not to steal the thread, but has anyone put OBA on a 6 cyl with A/C??