Hydrosteer install

[djmac]

I am about to start installing my used hydrosteer ram and gearbox and I was looking to get any tips from you guys before I start. I have the motor out so I don't have the benefit of the powersteering pump to move the ram (2in x 8in stroke) so I am wondering if there is a practical way to locate the attachement points on the axle and steering gear without the pump attached?

[budojeepr]

I am about to start installing my used hydrosteer ram and gearbox and I was looking to get any tips from you guys before I start. I have the motor out so I don't have the benefit of the powersteering pump to move the ram (2in x 8in stroke) so I am wondering if there is a practical way to locate the attachement points on the axle and steering gear without the pump attached?
I set mine up initially with the ram extended halfway, wheels dead center, and the drag link/tie rod all adjusted. The adjustment on the ram let me make up any possible misplacement when welded.

Just me thinkin', but you should make sure the stop bolts on the knuckles stop the steering instead of letting the ram do it.

[GaWag]

Just me thinkin', but you should make sure the stop bolts on the knuckles stop the steering instead of letting the ram do it.

Definitely. When you setup up the ram, extend the ram at full extension. Then turn your wheels to full stop. Towards the pass side in a driver drop, driver side with a pass drop. That way the ram bottoms out before your steering arm.

I learned this from experience. Bent my 1 Ton TRE.

[djmac]

Definitely. When you setup up the ram, extend the ram at full extension. Then turn your wheels to full stop. Towards the pass side in a driver drop, driver side with a pass drop. That way the ram bottoms out before your steering arm.

I learned this from experience. Bent my 1 Ton TRE.

Great point. Thanks for the advice.

[djmac]

Definitely. When you setup up the ram, extend the ram at full extension. Then turn your wheels to full stop. Towards the pass side in a driver drop, driver side with a pass drop. That way the ram bottoms out before your steering arm.

I learned this from experience. Bent my 1 Ton TRE.

I been thinking about what you said in the above quote. Right now I have a poor steering radius because I can't get my wheels to turn my wheels stop to stop. No doubt due to the fact that I have a 4" dpa when I should have high or cross steering with my 8" lift. That said could I damage my steering gear by adding the ram when I currently can go stop to stop on the wheels? I really don't have the time or the cash to go the oversteer upgrade so maybe I should put off the ram until I can do it all at the same time?

[Slick Willie]

Just me thinkin', but you should make sure the stop bolts on the knuckles stop the steering instead of letting the ram do it.

Definitely. When you setup up the ram, extend the ram at full extension. Then turn your wheels to full stop. Towards the pass side in a driver drop, driver side with a pass drop. That way the ram bottoms out before your steering arm.

I learned this from experience. Bent my 1 Ton TRE.

Is it just me, or are these contradicting statments? If the bolts on the knuckle stop the steering, then the ram will attempt to steer it further, maybe causing a bent tie rod. If the ram stops the steering, you loose some steering radius, and in a sticky situation, your tire could be bent outwards causing the ram to extend further than it's capiblilites.

I would imagine you'd try to set up the ram where at full extension, there would be as little gap as possible before the bolts on the knuckle are contacted. Someone send me down the right path.

[4x4fEvEr]

could I damage my steering gear by adding the ram when I currently can go stop to stop on the wheels? I really don't have the time or the cash to go the oversteer upgrade so maybe I should put off the ram until I can do it all at the same time?


a hydro assist setup takes all the stress off the steering box. you will be doing your steering box a favor.

[BRUTUS]

As far as I know, the saginaw box dumps pressure internally when "full left" or "full right" is achieved at the box which means that the ram will no longer extend or retract at either steering stop.

[budojeepr]

As far as I know, the saginaw box dumps pressure internally when "full left" or "full right" is achieved at the box which means that the ram will no longer extend or retract at either steering stop.
That is a good piece of info to have in the toolbox.

[GaWag]

Is it just me, or are these contradicting statments? If the bolts on the knuckle stop the steering, then the ram will attempt to steer it further, maybe causing a bent tie rod. If the ram stops the steering, you loose some steering radius, and in a sticky situation, your tire could be bent outwards causing the ram to extend further than it's capiblilites.

I would imagine you'd try to set up the ram where at full extension, there would be as little gap as possible before the bolts on the knuckle are contacted. Someone send me down the right path.

No, not contradicting. What I was saying is that when you set up the ram, make sure that the cylinder is all the way out with the wheel turned all the way till it stops on the bolt. That way the ram will not try to push the knuckle past it's stopping point.

[AdamG]

I recall seeing on TV the way to move the ram is with air. use a blow gun on a compressor to cause the ram to go one way or the other.
how this helps.
Adam G

[djmac]

a hydro assist setup takes all the stress off the steering box. you will be doing your steering box a favor.

Just to clarify: What I meant by "steering gear" was the steering linkages and parts in general. Because of my lift my steering box can't turn enough to get my wheels lock to lock so I was afraid that the ram would keep pushing when I ran out turning capacity in the box and bend something. But if the box shuts down pressure when it has turned to its full capacity then I guess I have no problems.