Anyone running 37s on 6" lift (W/T)

[Jeep4myBoys]

I'm wondering if it would be just to much. I know 35s will fit, but I'd like to get 37s on without cutting the flares off.

It'll be almost exclusively trail, and will see some pretty tough obstacles. So I was wondering if any one is running 37 - 12.50s and how much rubbing there is. Haven't decided on the exact tires yet, but let's assume they actually are 37".

I would rather not put a body lift on or use blocks/shackle, but I will if I have to.

comments/experience?

[BRUTUS]

I don't have one but referencing the CFSJA.org lift kit article... a 6" lift with 37's will require fender trimming front and rear.

http://www.cfsja.org/tech/suspension/lifts.txt

[Jeep4myBoys]

Thanks, that's a good reference. Looks like I could get away with 36" without a trim, but what fun is that? ;)

[bigun]

Crom runs 37s with only 2.5 inches of lift and M715 front fenders

[75sewg]

if it's mostly a trail rig, why are you not willing to chop the flares off?

i agree with brutus, either sawsall or body lift.

[bigun]

or you could go with a spring over and get around 6 inches of lift

[Casey]

I've got a TT's kit 5.5-6" front 6-7" rear I had to trim BIG time to not rub the flares. 37x12.50-15 on 8" wheels w/3.5" bs. It's worth the time to trim them. I needed to do more before the first trip and cut the outer lugs a bit. :(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v189/rcasey/FSJ/ssron1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v189/rcasey/FSJ/twodogsside.jpg

Then I got a bit carried away...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v189/rcasey/FSJ/vert.jpg

[Stuka]

SOA generally gives closer to 8" of lift. Casey, your chero sits quite a bit higher than my J10 with a 6" lift. 37's would probably mount ok on my J10, but any flex would make them rub.

[hardbody1]

Ive got 36s on mine wsith a 6in and it rubbed. I trimmed back the vertical part of the fender to the bend and havent rubbed since.

Kyle

[AdamG]

I am running 37X13.50R15 Baja Claws with no lift and worn out springs, it rubs, a skosh, but only when you turn or go over a pebble. I trimmed pretty far and will be going farther. plan is to run 4" springs and a 1" body lift.
Adam G

[Casey]

SOA generally gives closer to 8" of lift. Casey, your chero sits quite a bit higher than my J10 with a 6" lift. 37's would probably mount ok on my J10, but any flex would make them rub.

Maybe it's the tires Stuka. It really didn't lift it that high in the front. The rear on the other hand..WOW! The TT's shackle flip is one heck of a way to get lift. I have the brackets moved all the way forward. I could get more lift by moving the brackets aft on the mounts. I won't, but it's there.
Still, I had to trim the flares to run the 37s and not rub. I didn't want to cut them off completely, so I trimmed them to the step in the flare. So far so good.

I'm pretty sure I'll run 44044 springs up front when I get my 60 installed. That should level me out with the winch mounted.

[AlsChopShop]

casey, do you think that would be differnet on rims with more backspacing? they wouldn't stick out as far and would tuck into the fender instead of catching the lip...

Al

[Casey]

casey, do you think that would be differnet on rims with more backspacing? they wouldn't stick out as far and would tuck into the fender instead of catching the lip...

Al
Perhaps. But it would still rub when flexed and crossed up in the front.

I am switching to D60s and 4.88s after the ECI. I'll need new wheels then. To accomodate the bigger tires. :thumbsup:

[Jeep4myBoys]

Thanks for the great info, guys. The pics are great, Casey. Did cutting the lid off help with clearance? ;)

I'm hesitant to cut the flares off 'cause I like the way it looks, and they sure are purdy with very little rust. Seems a waste, although the passenger rear quarter is pretty heavily damaged (biggest problem being the door jam, not a simple patch.

The 715 flare idea is good Charlie. Did you get the whole front fenders from one, or just cut the whole flare off and replace it? I like the idea of keeping the COG lower, and I wonder if I completely cut off the flares if I could fit 37s on a 4" lift without rubbing.

[AlsChopShop]

its my understanding that you can run 37s on a stock suspension if you completely cut off the flares.

i also thought about trimming my flares back like casey did but this rig is 100% rust free so i'm really hesitant to do it. and i'm very against removing the flairs on these things, they set them apart from all the wags!

Al

[Jeep4myBoys]

its my understanding that you can run 37s on a stock suspension if you completely cut off the fenders.

i also thought about trimming my flairs back like casey did but this rig is 100% rust free so i'm really hesitant to do it. and i'm very against removing the flairs on these things, they set them apart from all the wags!

Al

Wow - makes me think of doing the 4" then slapping on 40s . . . of course then I'd need new axles . . . and better steering . . . and a better low range . . .

I agree with the flares - that's why I'm having a hard time with this. I bought the Cherokee with the intent to keep it on mild trails and make it look as purdy as I could . . . but since I'm going to be picking up an 88 GW in a couple weeks (Josh D's old truck), I've got my camping and fishing rig, now I need a beater. I would be much more hesitant of cutting it up if there weren't a bunch of body damage on the passenger side already.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/beerbuddyphoto/P1010005.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/beerbuddyphoto/P1010003.jpg

[fulsizjeep]

since I'm going to be picking up an 88 GW in a couple weeks (Josh D's old truck)

Well Timothy, you are covered for Ouray then right? Josh's GW did fine in Ouray a few years ago. :thumbsup:

[Jeep4myBoys]

Well Timothy, you are covered for Ouray then right? Josh's GW did fine in Ouray a few years ago. :thumbsup:

I really wish I could make it, Flint. I will definately be there next year! I've got a business trip to CA for 10 days at the end of June and another at the end of July, I just can't be away from DW and the twins that long. And no, DW would not be willing to bring the twins camping, at least not this year!

[AlsChopShop]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/beerbuddyphoto/P1010005.jpg



ouch. with that much damage i'd say break out the sawzall and go to town. the body is not worth saving (unless you are a good bodyman) so why not rub it up against some rocks/trees with no regards? :thumbsup:

Al

[customcj7]

You should make the flares removable. Cut them off and then weld some tabs on them so you can just screw them back on from the underside. That way when you go to the trail you can just take them off and then put them back on for street use!

:thumbsup:

[Jeep4myBoys]

You should make the flares removable. Cut them off and then weld some tabs on them so you can just screw them back on from the underside. That way when you go to the trail you can just take them off and then put them back on for street use!

:thumbsup:

Interesting idea. I don't need them to be legal here (most buggies are even street legal around here!) but it would maintain the look . . . hmmm . . . Hey Charlie . . . you got a welder over there I could borrow? ;)

[Casey]

The ONLY reason I cut mine is that it's a rust bucket. Otherwise I would've found another rig to abuse.

That's why I sold my CJ-8s. I kept tearing them up in the woods.

I'll get some more recent pics of the completed flare cutting. I think they came out great and still look FSJ like.

[etjeep]

One future project I have (had this one for about 7-8 yrs) is I picked up a set of EB flares. I bought them from james duff because they had simple lines and generally have the same shape as FSJ flares. They are some kind of soft plastic. Like I said, I have not installed them yet, but have kept them becasue I think they would be resilient for off-road (as much as can be) and have some merit. Besides, I hate those big fugly flares advertised a lot (I forgot the brand name).

[AlsChopShop]

You should make the flares removable. Cut them off and then weld some tabs on them so you can just screw them back on from the underside. That way when you go to the trail you can just take them off and then put them back on for street use!

:thumbsup: sounds like a great idea, especially around here they don't like it if your offroad tires are outside the body or flare. but the rear's are two pieces on the cherks, how would one get around that?

Al

[Jeep4myBoys]

Alright, here's my newest idea. I know, I know, I suck at photoshop, but it at least gives you an idea. I'll trim the flares until there's only about an inch left, with only the top in back and the top and a little of the rear in front. At least it'll still look like it was a W/T at some point. 4" lift and 37s. I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal, so hopefully the axles can handle it for a while. What do you guys think?

What's the best way to cut these cleanly? I don't have access to a plasma cutter, so I was thinking cutoff wheel and grinder. Then I'll tack some steel into the gap between the panels.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/beerbuddyphoto/trimmedflaresidea.jpg

[AlsChopShop]

IMO it would look silly to cut the fronts back all the way and leave the tops and rears.

if i was to cut, i'd do something like this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l100/wldthng_napz/DSCN7817.jpg


maybe not quite so much in the front, but the rear looks good.

the fronts are one piece so you can go back as far as you want, its the rears you can't go too far (not sure how much) because they are two piece.

unless you can score a set of j-truck flares.

Al

[AlsChopShop]

oh and as for the tool to cut them with... i'd use a sawzall with a nice fine metal blade or those electric sheetmetal shears. in fact, last time i used sheet metal shears i almost lost a finger on the freshly cut metal. :omfg:

Al

[shepherdskeep]

My Chero has the TT's Fabworks SOA & shackle flip lift (7 inches) and Rough Country 13" travel shocks - my 35x12.50 Baja Claws rub the flares pretty bad when flexed, and the tires are mounted on the stock 15x8 steel wagon wheels. If I had less backspacing it would rub even worse. I plan on carving the lower corners off the flares with a die grinder whenever I get around to it :rolleyes: You could always extend your bumpstops to minimize the rubbing, but that would also limit your compression flex and for serious off roading you definitely want to have that.

[bigun]

Timothy, I bought the hwole fenders with shipping probably the most money I spent on Crom other than tires. Once they got here Bart and I relised we could have made our own cheaper and they would have fit better! Welder I have a 110 volt mig I use to tack stuff together then I go to bart's and he burns them in with the 240 volt rig. Contact Black Bart see if he is willing to take on another project he usually is as long as the owner of the vehicle is willing to put in some sweat himself.

[woodstock]

I've been tossing around this fender business for awhile now. This is what I intend. My front flares are crunched a bit on both sides and my rear flares are full of bondo. I'm going the M715-like route, laregly because I would it to look alright, but I want big tires with no/minimal lift to keep a low cog. Instead of buying them, I'll fab something similar for both the front (out of some extra nt fenders I have) and rear fron scratch. To solve the inner fender problem in the rear, I'm going to cut in inner part out. My '75 Chero has metal cargo area panels, so I'l fill in the holes, screw them in and durabak the sides the same time I durabak the whole interior. I'm also going to modify the rear quarter panels and open up the bottoms, so they will be more like a truck. Of course I'll have to brace them the way a trucks quarter panels are braced. I'll durabak the inner fenders too. We have salty roads around here in the winter. Plus, I'd like to be able to shoot a hose up there too for easy cleanup after a ride. Really, I'm durabaking a good portion of the exterior as well...including the M715 flares I'll fab up.

[AdamG]

Here are some pics of the trimming I did to clear the 37's stock. My plan is the flip the rear shackles and run 4" front springs. should clear?
http://www.kcjeepclub.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=225&pos=15

AdamG

[etjeep]

I would agree with Adam. If you are going to wheel it, cut off the flares clean and sell them to someone hear doing a resto project since they are in good shape.

I would use a cutoff wheel for removal. It will be a bit slower but you will have control. My sawzall is relegated to "I don't care about this" mode, again more difficult to control especially when the body panels separate from each other and the sheet metal starts flapping around. A jig-saw is not really possible due to the angles. You can use a plasma if you are skilled. I stress skill here because if you are not, I guarantee your edge will look like chit very, very quickly though.

[adamsclarke]

Here's a 37 on no lift J10 for reference. I just cut right at the body line with a sawzall. About 5 minutes later....bamm!
http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/adamsclarke/?action=view&current=Wheel-Mounted.gif

[dawghauler]

got 36 inch hummer tires on mine with a 6 inch lift and haven't rubbed yet