PDA

View Full Version : Ball Joints.....what tools are needed.


Iron Horse
09-27-2002, 08:50 AM
I've aquired a ball joint press....so what else is needed. I hear "talk" of a 4 pronged socket of some sort in some of the posts I've searched.

Thanks,

River Beast
09-27-2002, 09:55 AM
The 4 prong socket is one of two things... ic an be the 4x4 hub nut wrench which is about $20 or the upper balljoint adjustment sleeve tool which is like a 5/8" deepwell socket with 4 prongs on it.

This adjustment sleeve is inside the 'C' of the upper balljoint. it can be removed without the tool if not too corroded, but must be torqued WITH the tool to 50 ft lbs during installation.

You can prolly get one from A Zone to use.

Here are some pics

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_photos/23000.jpg http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_illustra/23000ill.jpg

[ September 27, 2002, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

ClarkGriswald
09-27-2002, 11:05 AM
Wow todd nice illustrations heheh.

Ralph
09-27-2002, 11:16 AM
Yeah, Todd, really quick job drawing up those sketches and then posting them!

I would also recommend a good puller and a rubber hammer. I just did the ball joints on the driver side two weekends ago, and the spindle was frozen in the knuckle so badly that we had to yank, beat, and pull on it all the while spraying in PB Blaster penetrant. You DON'T want to use a torch to heat it, because the spindle bearings have a rubber seal that could get toasted.

Have fun!

River Beast
09-27-2002, 11:29 AM
I didn't draw them...hehehe... I pulled them from a post I did over a year ago! They are on a website that sells degreed sleeves for caster adjustment

ClarkGriswald
09-27-2002, 11:40 AM
Heres a good way to get spindles off as they are usually stuck on there.. put the two hub nuts back on (pin out so they will just tighten against each other). then use a rubber or wooden mallet.. or a block of wood and a hammer. and beat side to side. then up and down .. then diagonals on teh spindle.. i can break em lose pretty quickly like this. just did two the other day. once you get it moving and you can get a screwdriver behind it on one side.. (get a gap opened up on one side) then hold the screwdriver in there and beat the spindle toward it to open up the other side.. simple leverage.. once you get that to move, its almost fallin off.. ..

the two nuts tightened against each other give a nice place to hit and protects the threads.

fitron74
09-28-2002, 05:34 AM
Iron Horse,
Riverbeast is to be commended for his illustrations for balll-joint installation and use of the special tool for torqueing down the upper ball joint. I am glad I saw this as some time in the future my ball joints will need work on my '87 GW. Also ClarkGriswald gave good advice for getting off the stubborn spindle. I too recommend using a piece of hardwood and a small sledge to rap the spindle back and forth on opposite sides while soaking it with PB Blaster.
Fitron74

2ndtimearround
09-28-2002, 07:25 AM
Not to be outdone with illustrations here is a picture of my spindle puller in action. It is about $50 or so from Snap On. The spindle puller has threads for 3 sizes of spindles (D30, D44 and D60s) and one for the slide hammer.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/larryx007/spindle_new_size.JPG

The D44 and spindles in picture had been out side for over 7 years in an Altantic costal environment....took about 8 hits of the slide hammer to get 'em off. BTW the axle in the back is a D44..both heading into my YJ...

Lawrence

[ September 28, 2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: 2ndtimearround ]

mdill
09-28-2002, 05:10 PM
Ok, We have so far , ball joint adjuser socket, spindle puller socket, lets not
forget the spindle bearing socket, touque wrench and either a press, a ball
joint puller or some fancy hammer (big hammer) and pipe.bar work to get
the ball joints out of the knuckels. Other than that just normal 1/2" and 3/8"
socket sets and normal hand tools.

Mike D.

Careful34
09-29-2002, 03:38 PM
You'll also need a 1 5/16" socket to get the top nut off. or a big pipe wrench!

Iron Horse
09-30-2002, 01:42 AM
X-cellent info guys!

I need to get the ball joint 4 pronged socket yet. As for the spindles....had those off last year for U-joints, so they should'nt be too bad. What do you think.....2 hrs per side?

Thanks,

Andy

River Beast
09-30-2002, 03:33 AM
Roughly as long as they are not 'stuck'... ;)

CJ5
09-30-2002, 06:09 AM
Two hours seems about right. Mine took me longer but I had never done it before and did have all the tools you have.

I had no problem getting the spindle off. A rubber hammer and a screw driver, it came right off.

Steering knuckle took some time but I have a HD puller that worked good to get that off. A trick I was told was to rap the steering knuckle hard around where the tie rod joints bolt on and they will usually drop out easily. The steering knuckle came off failry easily.

I struggled with the ball joints a little but once I got the first one off I was able to use my puller and air gun to get the others out easily.

I used a punch to spin the ball joint threaded spacer out no problem. It has a cut in it down the length so if you use a punch hit to spin it around near the split. It will come out easiler. I looked everywhere for the proper tool to reinstall it. My local Napa didn't even have one. You can buy one from a specialty tool company. I ended up using a cheap deep well socket I had. I used the old bushing and made marks on the socket and then used my 4" grinder to grind off where I needed. It worked great! I was able to torque it down right. I kept the socket for next time if you need it smile.gif .

Screw the threaded spacer into the yoke so its flush with the top, install the ball joint. Tighten the bottom ball joint to spec, then using the tool tighted the threaded spacer down to 50 ft. lbs. Then tighten the upper ball joint nut to something like 90ft lbs.

Sorry I got long winded. I just finished doing this job a couple of weeks ago. I'll tell you, its the best "driving inhancing" repair I have ever done. I couldn't believe the difference it made in how the jeep feels. It was unbelievable and I didn't think my ball joints where that bad. If you have not replaced your ball joints on a 20 y/o or older vehicle do it. It made more difference than any shocks, tires or springs I have every replaced.

Nelson

Ralph
10-01-2002, 07:11 AM
Nice tool, 2ndtimearround -- and I don't just say that to all the boys!

I also think a can of PB Blaster (penetrant) is helpful.

Yep, I posted it: a good tool and penetrant...