slight modifications (lots o pics)

[Big Blue]

Well i have been tinkering away for a while on some new mods and thought i would share what i am currently doing:
-Chevy 350-basically stock
-turbo350
-np203
-dana300, twin sticked
-all ford outers on the front (to have matching 8 lug with the rear and twin piston calipers)
-new seats
-some sort of front bumper
-38x12.50 TSL's
-a cup holder or two (if i have time)

So here is what i have done so far:

Missing something?
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/empty.JPG

Out with the old...
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/motor_removal.JPG


And this is the new(to me)
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/inwithnew.JPG

Starting to fab some motor mounts. I am using YJ poly spring eye bushings pressed inside of some 1 3/4" DOM tubing.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/mount2.JPG
Another of the motor mount...
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/mount3.JPG

Here is one of the drivers side mounting plate. The three bolt holes on the drivers side of the 350 are not all parallel with eachother so i had to cut/bend one corner of the plate to fit the motor flush.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/driversmount.JPG

[Big Blue]

Here is what the frame mounting tabs look like. Nothing fancy, but they should be fairly strong i think.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/mounttabs.JPG

Here is the passenger side motor mount fitted in there. I will smooth out the tabs that mount to the frame to make it look somewhat descent.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/passengermount.JPG

Here is the drivers side motor mount completed. I had to notch one of the tabs so the steering shaft would not interfere.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/driversmountsteering.JPG

I finished the tranny crossmember up before i even put the motor in but here is a pic of that. Basicall i just cut down the crossmember that the th350 originally mounted to and welded some 3/16" plate on the ends and drilled holes to mount it to the frame. This was a really easy way of making a tranny crossmember.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/trannymount.JPG

Now that the motor and tranny are mounted in there i have started to work on the t-cases. Originally i was planning on a 203/205 doubler but i came across a REALLY good deal on a used 203/dana300 doubler so i decided to go that route. I know the dana300 is not as strong as the 205. I guess we will so how well it will hold up. Plus it will be nice to have 2:1, 2.62:1, and a 5.24:1 low range options instead of just the 2:1 and 4:1 as with the 203/205. Here is the 203 gear box:

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/203.JPG

And here is the dana 300:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/dana300.JPG

and here is the adapter, the new output for the 203 is not shown here, but was included with this kit:

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/adapter.JPG

I had to grind some of the dana300 shifter assembly to allow the adapter to fit:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/300mod.JPG

This is about as far as i have gotten now. I put the 203/300 together and tried to mate it to the tranny but i need a clockring to make the 300 more flat. That should arrive tomarrow or so. In the meantime i installed some new J-10 re-upholstered seats. They match the interior and are quite comfy.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10114/newseats.JPG

Hopefully tomarrow the ups guy will bring me my clockring so i can finish the t-cases. I will update as soon as something more interesting happens. Please feel free to critique or comment on anything here.

Colin

[Desert Beast]

i like your motor mounts. :thumbsup:

but...with different trans/engine mounts you increase the chance of breakage. (although it is better to have the stiffer of the 2 on the engine, which you have)

looks good though.

[Big Blue]

Ya that is what i have heard. I will have another crossmember for the dana 300 and it will have poly bushings. I have still been debating fabbing a new tranny crossmember that uses poly bushings as well as being more beefy than the factory crossmember.

[BRUTUS]

I can't wait to see this rig back on the road. I like your choice of tire...:whistle:

We will definately have to get wheeling soon. I have some stuff I have to do before that can happen though.

Sweet pics... it looks a lot better than it did before Moab.

[Big Blue]

Ya i have been bustin a** to get this thing on the road by the middle of May.

[75sewg]

what type of driveshaft are you going to use for the rear? with the tranny up that high and the doubler, you are going to have to use a double cardan cv style driveshaft in the rear, the ones that are designed for the rear can get really expensive in a hurry.

everything looks good, keep us posted

i wish i would have gone with the same style motor mounts that you did, they look really beefy.

[Big Blue]

I have a double cardon shaft for the rear already....just needs to be shortened. Im really considering making a square shaft for the front, but we'll see how tight money is when i get that far.

[BRUTUS]

I have a double cardon shaft for the rear already....just needs to be shortened. Im really considering making a square shaft for the front, but we'll see how tight money is when i get that far.

Tight money... no such thing when it comes to an FSJ.

FWIW, I got all the steel for the tubes (24" of 2x2x1/4 and 24" of 2.5x2.5x1/4 and 0.75" of 3x3x1/4) for around $50. Then I ordered the 1410 joint for $50 (probably need a 1350 right) from Drivetrain Specialties in Arizona. I had to get mine welded but it looks as though you can get yours welded. Don't forget about U-joints. Actually it was very affordable compared to a tom woods or high angle front driveshaft.

[Desert Beast]

Tight money... no such thing when it comes to an FSJ.

FWIW, I got all the steel for the tubes (24" of 2x2x1/4 and 24" of 2.5x2.5x1/4 and 0.75" of 3x3x1/4) for around $50. Then I ordered the 1410 joint for $50 (probably need a 1350 right) from Drivetrain Specialties in Arizona. I had to get mine welded but it looks as though you can get yours welded. Don't forget about U-joints. Actually it was very affordable compared to a tom woods or high angle front driveshaft.

just make sure you have locking hubs. those square shafts dont like high rpms much. :D

[Big Blue]

just make sure you have locking hubs. those square shafts dont like high rpms much. :D

I do have locking hubs so that shouldnt be a problem.

I got the transfer cases put in tonight finally. Ill try and post some pics of that soon. It looks like i will have to notch the tranny crossmember for driveshaft clearance but that shouldnt be too difficult. Also the shifters for the t-cases are very close together so i will have to make some custom shifters instead of using the twin sticks i bought :banghead:. Other than that things are moving along somewhat smooth.

Colin

[wickedwagon767]

Its great to see progress on Blue. As long as you're smart with the stupid pedal (paradox?) I think your D300 will hold up.

Is the 350 engine mostly stock or....?

great looking motor mounts

can't wait to see you get the current mods finished up

:drivin:

[wickedwagon767]

BTW

I envy matching engine hoist,stand and jackstands!

:cool:

[Big Blue]

Its great to see progress on Blue. As long as you're smart with the stupid pedal (paradox?) I think your D300 will hold up.

Is the 350 engine mostly stock or....?

great looking motor mounts

can't wait to see you get the current mods finished up

:drivin:

The engine is basically stock with the exception of some headers. I do plan on being smart with the skinny pedal especially as long as i have the dana 44 up front.

[Big Blue]

I did get the motor wired up today. I am just waiting to get some new connections for the tranny coolant lines for the th350 so i can start it up.

Also, anyone know of a good place to get a throttle cable? I fudged mine up when removing the old motor.

Thanks
Colin

[wickedwagon767]

have you tried www.lokar.com ?

high-quality stuff

[Big Blue]

have you tried www.lokar.com (http://www.lokar.com) ?

high-quality stuff

I just took a look at that....looks like just what i need. Looks like i must have to call for pricing...thats usually not a good sign ;)

[Desert Beast]

just go to vatozone and get a spectre throttle cable setup. theyre like $15.

[wickedwagon767]

just go to vatozone and get a spectre throttle cable setup. theyre like $15.

lol:lol:

Then theres always that route if you're on a budget

[Big Blue]

just go to vatozone and get a spectre throttle cable setup. theyre like $15.

Awsome i will have to do that. Hopefully they will able to find one of these. Usually they have ablolutely no clue about anything unless you can give them an exact vehicle year/make/model/motor ect...

[Desert Beast]

there in the store, w/ all the other spectre ricer accessories. the fake braided line, and other misc things.

[Big Blue]

there in the store, w/ all the other spectre ricer accessories. the fake braided line, and other misc things.

hmm...i didnt see them there the last time i was in there. Tomarrow i will try again. At least i know what brand it is so they might be able to look it up.
I will pretty much be done with finals tomarrow as well so maybe i can finally get this project finished. Im hopin to have everything except the frond driveshaft done by this weekend :rolleyes:.

Oh ya, anyone know where to find/have any wheel studs for a ford dana 44? Autozone wants $2.50 a piece :eek: and i need 16 of them. Aside from junkyarding, is there a cheaper way of getting some?

Colin

[Slick Willie]

Try different auto parts stores. I can't remember which one was cheaper for me, but they vary from store to store. I do remember the lug nuts for my D60 front being at least double the 14 bolt.

Edit: I can't read. Again. Wheel studs might not vary from store to store, but they might. The cheapest route would be to leave the ones on there on there. :D

[Big Blue]

Try different auto parts stores. I can't remember which one was cheaper for me, but they vary from store to store. I do remember the lug nuts for my D60 front being at least double the 14 bolt.

Edit: I can't read. Again. Wheel studs might not vary from store to store, but they might. The cheapest route would be to leave the ones on there on there. :D

I would leave them there if i had some to leave on :D

[Sambo]

i want to do exactly what you are doing;)
i have a dodge 23 spline 203 sitting here! just need to save the $$$ for the adapters..i swapped outputs when i swapped to the d300:thumbsup:

[Ralph Rogers]

Lokar stuff isn't that expensive. I have one on one of my Wags. I think it was like $35. The cable is far thicker, the ends are bigger, and the shielding is real.
I have the Spectre stuff on another Wag, it's fair but not nearly as smooth as the Lokar.

Any chance you'd like to make an extra set of those motor mounts for some $??
I like them. I'm needing to change out the 350 in one of my Wags this year and really like what you did compared to what I'm running now.
Ralph