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View Full Version : Should I chain down the engine?


rampagefsj
05-02-2007, 10:23 PM
I've been driving my truck for a while now, but I haven't pushed it too far just yet. I've been worrying about the stock motor mounts busting if I try anything. I've heard that chaining down the block is a pretty good and cheap solution. I have a question or two about that.

I need to chain down both sides of the engine, right? Where is a good and sturdy place to bolt the chain to? And finally, do I need to put the chains on so they are tight, or give them a little slack?

Thanks for any help given, and I might have another question or two if I think of them.:cool:

Tad
05-02-2007, 10:28 PM
They need slack so the motor mounts do their job, the idea is to prevent the engine from lurching when a mount breaks and it causing more damage.
I always used cables for SBC's, around the exhaust manifolds, to the frame.
Have not seen or heard of the need on B350's (it's a stout mount) but really have little clue about the AMC setups.

Tigger4X
05-02-2007, 10:30 PM
Chaining down your engine can only help you! Losing a motor mount bites ... and HARD!! IMHO chaining your motor mounts down tightly can only better your situation. It doesn't take a whole lot of movement to kill your radiator!! :eek: I'm sure there is more than one way to chain them down but PICS will say it best. ;)

Stuka
05-02-2007, 10:42 PM
You dont want the chains tight. You want some slack. If you do it tight the motor mounts wont work, and in that case you may as well get solid mounts. Also, without any movement its possible to break something farther back in the drive train. Transmission tail shafts/adapters, etc.

Slick Willie
05-02-2007, 11:01 PM
So the job of the motor mounts is to let the engine give a little bit. Ok. What about those hard mounts with poly bushings? It doesn't seem they move as much as the rubber mounts. Maybe the stock rubber mounts are crap compared to other mounts, and even bigger crap compared to the hard mounts with bushings.

I guess I just can't see a reason the engine should be allowed to move a little. I want my engine to stay put! I already had one try to flop out on me, but it messed with my head by yanking on my throttle cable for a long trail before finally hitting the fan. If you want a scary ride, try only two engine speeds: full throttle or off. :eek:

Desert Beast
05-03-2007, 01:05 AM
just run solid mounts. just make sure to run them @ the tcase also.

BRUTUS
05-03-2007, 01:31 AM
I am going to make some solid steel mounts on the waterjet and will probably make a few extra just in case. Let me know if you are interested.

Ask me how bad it sucks to lose motor mounts... Garret and Flint were making fun of me while I patched them with ratchet straps!

http://lh3.google.com/image/jeepmr/Rjg4fE8ufSI/AAAAAAAAAQg/KLW3jHPAlOI/Moab9.jpg?imgmax=800

Sambo
05-03-2007, 05:19 AM
funny y'all mention this now! i managed to rip both of mine out once AGAIN:mad::banghead:
ll probly why i am working some to this month so i can afford good mounts

KaiserMan
05-03-2007, 05:44 AM
My J10's 360 wqs chained down. PO ran some chains around the frame and bolted them to the motor. Can't remember exactly where though. Worked well, as one engine mount was broken when I got the truck. The chain seems to have kept the motor pretty much in place.

byson1
05-03-2007, 08:18 AM
I had problems too and decided to take a large 7/16 grade 8 bolt and run it straight through the engine bracket, motor mount and frame bracket. You obviously have to drill a hole throught these. I then mounted rubber shock bushings (any fexible bushing will work) on the each end and barely tightened it down (with red thread lock)so there was still some give. I never had a problem again and it sure beat some gaudy looking chain hanging down their. It's a cheap fix but works.

BRUTUS
05-03-2007, 08:40 AM
I had problems too and decided to take a large 7/16 grade 8 bolt and run it straight through the engine bracket, motor mount and frame bracket. You obviously have to drill a hole throught these. I then mounted rubber shock bushings (any fexible bushing will work) on the each end and barely tightened it down (with red thread lock)so there was still some give. I never had a problem again and it sure beat some gaudy looking chain hanging down their. It's a cheap fix but works.

That is a hell of a simple idea... I like it. Is this kinda what you are talking about?

byson1
05-03-2007, 10:30 AM
To a "T".... It works on FS and baby Jeeps (and other rigs too). Just use some big flat washers on each end. It still gives the stock damping of the rubber cushion but the bolt keep it from ripping apart-unless you realy get crazy, but I've never had one self destruct.

incommando
05-05-2007, 07:35 AM
You dont want the chains tight. You want some slack. If you do it tight the motor mounts wont work, and in that case you may as well get solid mounts. Also, without any movement its possible to break something farther back in the drive train. Transmission tail shafts/adapters, etc.

I have seen tranny mounts & even cases broken at the dragstrip from just making the front solid. These guys are dead on (again) about that.

If you do go solid, you can get a "turnbuckle" at a hardware store to use. Those work and are usually easy to install while leaving the stock mounts in place. On the motor, you only need one on the driver's side due to the rotation of the engine when you nail it. The passenger side should not go higher. The only reason the passenger side might ever go a bit higher is that the driver's side mount might compress a bit when you get back out of it and the engine rocks back into place. If they are available, cheap enough, and easy enough to install, actual sold mounts are the best route, though.

FSJ Guy
05-05-2007, 09:28 AM
That is a hell of a simple idea... I like it. Is this kinda what you are talking about?

Jason, that looks like a great idea. If you fab something like that, I'm all over it! I even know of some test rigs in and around your town that you could install them on.... You wouldn't want to risk trying it on your truck first. Come over and try them on mine! LOL!

BRUTUS
05-05-2007, 01:52 PM
Jason, that looks like a great idea. If you fab something like that, I'm all over it! I even know of some test rigs in and around your town that you could install them on.... You wouldn't want to risk trying it on your truck first. Come over and try them on mine! LOL!

M&G at your house... or should we do it at my new house?

JpX
05-05-2007, 05:16 PM
I can't wait to see this. I'll be sticking with the Novak mounts I bought for now though.
Nice pic of the trail repair, those kinds of pics are my favorites. What people really do when it gets down to brass tacks!

68glad
05-05-2007, 11:17 PM
incommando is dead on. The "turnbuckle" setup works great. 68glad

FSJ Guy
05-06-2007, 12:57 AM
M&G at your house... or should we do it at my new house?

Your choice. Email me on the CFSJA list....

bigun
05-06-2007, 09:47 AM
incommando is dead on. The "turnbuckle" setup works great. 68glad Used the turn buckle on several drag cars. I have also field repared motor mounts using big hose clamps!

BassnTruck
05-06-2007, 06:58 PM
I lost both mounts and the tranny mount on our last trail run. I ratched strapped it down.

Slick Willie
05-07-2007, 01:26 AM
When my motor mounts both sheared, the tranny mount was barely hanging on, but still attached. We only had the huge style ratchet straps, so we strapped the engine to the rear axle holding it in place and keeping it from hitting the radiator.