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KYJ10
07-28-2002, 01:27 AM
On my Mj, I needed to level out the rear with the front. So the simple solution was cut my rear shackles in half and add 2" of steel. This netted me the .75-1" I needed to level out. Now, on my J10, I need to level out the front with the rear, so was thinking about extending the front shackles slightly. Are the formulas about the same. For every inch longer the shackle you might pick up .25-.50"? I really just need about an inch, so this would seem to be easiest way to go. If not, How else could I net an inch up front. Thanks Dennis

River Beast
07-28-2002, 02:06 AM
Here is the easiest way...

The total distance on one end of a plane is equal to HALF at the mid point of the plane.

I have 96 3/4T 4x4 GM shackles up front

http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/misc/GM_AMC_shackle.jpg

If the shackle is 2" longer than the shackle replaced, 1" of lift will be roughly gained... I say roughly due to the center pin of the leaf packs not being 100% centered.

Here is a pic with the above shackles installed ...
http://home.earthlink.net/~dannyboon/rb20/rb0068.jpg

[ July 28, 2002, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

coolram
07-28-2002, 03:15 AM
RB do you get the shackles from the dealer,parts store or salvage yard?

KYJ10
07-28-2002, 12:35 PM
So are there any other applications these chevy shackles are on. Dont know if I can find any 96 4x4 3/4 tons here. And I'm assuming these chevy shackles are rear shackles? Thanks Dennis

KYJ10
07-29-2002, 06:28 AM
The shackle faces open side in, as in the pic above, but out of curiosity, what would they do reversed? Just wondering. Dennis

tuck
07-29-2002, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by KYJ10:
cut my rear shackles in half and add 2" of steel. :eek: :eek:
the cut and paste method sounds a little crazy, but whatever works I guess.

Remember that when you add shackle length in the front you will be altering your pinion angle, and affecting your steering geometry. Anyone else done this already?

KYJ10
07-29-2002, 09:20 AM
If you are a decent welder, they will actually be stronger around the weld than the rest of the shackle. I did it on my MJ rear. Welded in 2" for a gain off about 1". Just thinking about the front, after my Rusty's 4" spring turned the pinion down some, longer shackles in the front would actually turn it back toward stock. Thats they way I would see the geometry of it all. Any, thanks RB, I just finished putting my new GM shackles on, and did pick up between .75-1". Here is a pic of my MJ shackle.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/33896347/33897334HqkYvL

Dennis

[ July 29, 2002, 03:26 PM: Message edited by: KYJ10 ]

jode
07-29-2002, 09:39 AM
If I may interject here....

I was tire-kickin an old Wag 4 sale here in Boise a few months ago. Someone had performed the "CUt & and weld" trick on the front shackles to make up for the extra weight of an aftermarket winch, and I am gonna have to recomend against it.

Why? ...cuz it SUCKED!

Ok here's more detail...when the steering wheel was turned, the "shackles" twisted instead of moving the tires :eek: I can only imagine the feel of that at 65mph cuz I wasn't willing to take the beast off the backroads. It was jsut too flimsy. I like RB's idea of using a real shackle that was actually made to do that job. Overall, I think this is an area that should be aproached with caution...you don't wanna do some hack job like the one I saw and end up dead. :eek:

River Beast
07-29-2002, 10:58 AM
By putting the shackle in reverse (open end out) you don't gain a thing...shortest distance between two points is a straight line... the drawaback is the shackle will not have the room to fold forward.. contacting the frame sooner.

I got my shackles from a guy here on base with a 3/4T 2WD that he LOWERED!!!! :mad:

I also got a set from a member here that installed velvet ride shackles on his 96 3/4T 4WD Chevy

so yeah.. I have spares... just in case... ;)

I have built shackles before.... not a good idea with all the weight of the FSJ... I found cracks and wasn't happy...not too safe in my book

[ July 29, 2002, 05:01 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

KYJ10
07-29-2002, 02:33 PM
Agreed about not letting some hack weld it, but there are 100 more factory welds in just as many critical areas. Just needs to be a good weld. As you can see ,in my shackle pic, in previous post, I put an extra support in for good measure. Picked up my chevy shckles today cause found them cheap! Dennis

tuck
07-30-2002, 05:02 AM
RB, or anyone, do you know what year GM's have the shackles that will work? I could snake the shackles off our '80 3/4 ton chevy parts truck if they're the right size. I would just go look at them, but it's two hours away. thanks.

River Beast
07-30-2002, 05:10 AM
88 and up GM 1/2 T or 3/4 T had been said to work...it's been posted here before...

trickc
07-30-2002, 05:53 AM
RB we'll have to compare in a week or two,I snagged mine off the rear of a 84 ford f-150. They're basically the same design on ford chevy and dodge. I walked around the pull a part measuring, I think dodge was the longest of all by maybe 1/4" but the easiest set to get off was on the ford. $11 at pull a part.