33 or 35s

[chazer]

I have a 76 cherokee with NT axles and WT flares can i fit 35's with bjs six inch lift or do i have to go with the 33's? Also are 35's to big for these axles cant afford to upgrade them at the moment dont want to break one while wheeling. Also i use my rig a lot for towing would i notice a big difference between the 33 and the 35s power wise. Also i guess i should mention it is a 360 edelbrock intake carb msd hei with mile marker part time conversion with the 16 % overdrive.

Thanks for the advice

[j20brett]

if you dont want to break anytihng stick with the 33's. towing should be better as well.

[AlsChopShop]

how come you are running narrowtrack axles on a widetrack rig?

you can run 35s, but you will most likely need to run 10.50 or narrower or the tires will contact the spring at full lock.

you will feel a big difference in the 35s, and especially with that 16% overdrive. not the best setup for towing anything heavy. but 33's on n/t axles on a w/t rig lifted 6" would look a little silly to me. and we all know form comes over function... ;)


IMO i wouldn't run with the narrow axles on a 6 inch lift without some sort of crazy offset wheels to compensate for the lack of axle width, especially when you tow.

Al

[skeletor]

if you have 16% overdrive with stock gears and thinking about 33s or more. its gonna be a brick, ecspecially towing something.

[babywag]

Towing is going to be a nightmare w/ that set-up....
16% overdrive and 33" tires:eek:
(It'll be even worse w/ 35" tires.)

What gears are you running right now?

[chazer]

right now i assume it has 3.31 gears since it has the factory tow package. It will do 75 down the high way at around 1500 rpms 29 inch tires. I have the nt axles cause the rig was originaly an nt however the panels were rusted out so i got a used set of wt flares for the front for twenty dollars at a pull and save for the back i welded on some used j truck flares also from the pull and save total cost $40 the rigs axles were already taken or i would have grabed them too. As for looks i agree that 35's look better which is why i have the dilema. Is there a big difference between breaking with two sizes?

Ideally ill just have to get new axles at some time just cant afford it right now med school is far from cheap.

[DanHS]

How about look for some w/t axles and save up money while you look, shouldn't be hard to find some w/t Cherokee axles around there. Once you get the axles, put lower gears in them and get a set of 35x12.5 tires, and sell the n/t axles to some baby Jeeper or rockcrawler. Put the w/t's on with 4" lift and then you've got a tall Jeep with od. Or, get the w/t axles and lower gears, and put on some 33x10.5 tires with no lift if you want the lower center of gravity and better mpg.

[chief1]

hi
this is my chief with 6" bj`s lift and 35x12.5-15 .:drivin:
http://jeep.cfasp.de/upload/382858.jpg
http://jeep.cfasp.de/upload/382859.jpg

to turn the tires i have 5.38 gears and detroid fr&re.:fsj:

greetings from austria:D
gerald

[jepj2000]

I say go for the 35s, the dana 44s are ok on strength stock so you should be ok for a while. I have a buddy who wheels a V8 powered CJ7 with 36s on the stock dana 30 and model 20 with shafts, gears and lockers. If you don't already have the lift kit I would go to a spring over axle conversion. You will get 6-7 inches of lift with that and it would use the stock springs which will give you more flex than the 6inch kit. You should be able to do it all yourself sense you know how to weld. send a pm to tadsal or go to ttsfabworks in the vender forum on here and see the kit there. Sinse this would be a cheaper lift you could maybe get your w/t axles and then sell your n/t axles and break even on your axle issues. Depending on how much you save and what your budget is you maybe can afford some gears and shafts for the axles as well. You will need to regear for sure with the 16%od you have.

Rankin

[janie]

33's and the 16% overdrive will absolutely suck. Flint has helped me with this before and here's how it kinda breaks down for ya. With 31's and 3.54 gears + the 16% o/d it would break your gearing down to about 2.78

But if you throw 33's into the equation it would be around 2.61. Your gonna greatly increase your chances of tearing up your rear driveshaft and the additional heat on your trans is not a trip I'd wanna make.

[AlsChopShop]

i'd not go spring over unless you off-road. i'd much rather have the stiffer lift springs for towing to keep things stable.

the bottom line, you need to regear your axles or swap out for something wider and with better gears.

Al

[Grantshire]

My 79 had a built 360, Milemarker 16% OD, 3.54 gears and 35x12.50 Goodyear Mud Terrains on it when I got (compliments of the PO). From a standstill you could stomp the gas, hear lots of loud engine noise, and take a nap waiting to hit 50 mph. On the other hand, at 60 mph I could stomp it and leave rubber (shift kit - also PO) plus blow the doors off about any muscle car around.

I got tired of starting in third gear all the time and regeared the axles. I wanted 4.27's but got talked into 4.56's, I wish I had left the gears alone and gotten rid of the 16% OD crap (I like the PT, just not the OD). My advice is dump the Milemarker OD and go with 35's (4" spring lift + 2" body) with 3.54 gears.:fsj:

[chazer]

what axels besides the widetrack ones from a jeep would give me the wider stance. Looking at some dana 60's what donor vehicles should i be looking for. Also in the mean time could i just regear the rear axle since i only use the four wheel drive in snow and off road or would this cause a lot of problems. Finally if i go with the 33's can i put 12.50's on there or do i have to get the 10.50's thanks for all the advice.